The undisputed charms of Cartagena’s old town hold most visitors captive for the length of their stay – a real shame as they’re missing out on the equally delightful and more authentic version of the city in Getsemani. The formerly seedy neighborhood is just a 10-minute stroll outside the city walls and is quickly becoming one of Latin America’s newest hotspots, its streets vibrant with art, cool restaurants, and a nightlife worth traveling for.
There are no major sights or museums to see here, the attraction is Getsemani itself whose charms take place out in the open and where locals still outnumber tourists.
Ok there is maybe one famous landmark in the popular Cuban salsa club Cafe Havana where weekend crowds pack the floor and surrounding sidewalks to hear the talented house band (and where once a visiting Hillary Clinton famously danced the night away…).
The new generation is revitalizing the neighborhood, reclaiming public spaces and renovating crumbling buildings into boutique hotels and creative restaurants.
The colors are punchier than in the old town, affirming the renaissance and younger vibe of Getsemani, popular with backpackers and street artists.
Animal-shaped door knockers add a playful touch to houses and hotels.
Gritty streets lead to manicured blocks in beautiful patterns.
Calle de la Sierpe is especially stunning with the highest concentration of street art along its sinuous stretch.
Street art on Calle 25
For a taste of local, hearty food, the neighborhood favorite is La Casa de Socorro.
The menu showcases Cartagena’s Caribbean heritage with seared seafood, homey stews and fresh squeezed lemonade (try the coconut one).
Shrimps in garlic sauce with patacones (fried plantain slices)
Mote de queso (yam and Costeño cheese soup)
Nearby Plaza del Pozo, named after the water well at its center, is a picturesque and calm oasis perfect for sitting on one of its benches and watching the Getsemani life pass by.
A few amusing sculptures adorn the plaza.
Side streets immerse you even more into the locals’ lives, most of them catching a breeze on the sidewalks with their children playing around.
Residents and shop owners are found gossiping in plastic chairs.
Whichever way you decide to ‘get lost’ in Getsemani, you’ll inevitably end up at Plaza Trinidad, the natural hub of the neighborhood. Day and night sees locals gathering here, munching on arepas and hot dogs and downing cold beers from the corner store for the best people watching you’ll ever get around here.
Sundays transform the plaza into a mini football tournament.
My favorite spot stands at the corner of the plaza with full view of the action – Demente. The two-year old trendy bar opens its doors at night, placing rocking chairs on the sidewalk and serving inside delicious tapas and creative cocktails in a super hip space.
Tons of old mansions have been turned into chic boutique hotels such as Casa Lola, one of the first to open in the neighborhood a few years ago.
The renovated 17th century building has a chic boho feel with plenty of natural touches, a private art collection, and two swimming pools.
Breakfast is served in the peaceful courtyard every morning.
Two rooftop pools allow you to take a break from the intense heat and get a special view of the city.
From Getsemani, it’s a short walk to another of Cartagena’s major sight – El Castillo de San Felipe de Borajas. The imposing fort can be seen from afar and is worth a visit for its historical value and the lovely views of the city.
Get the audioguide and climb to the different sections, getting a fascinating glimpse into Cartagena’s colonial past along the way.
You’ll walk along massive walls, take underground tunnels and learn about the various attacks the city had to face.
Back in Getsemani, the contrasting modernity of the Convention Center marks a visual border and the end of the neighborhood.
It houses a wonderful restaurant, Marea by Rausch, with a killer location right by the water and a focus on seafood (as shown on their aquamarine decor).
Octopus carpaccio
House specialty of baked local fish with herb crust, garlic mashed potatoes, and grenobloise garnish
The elegant setting doesn’t feel very ‘Getsemani’ but is nevertheless a steal for the quality of the food, the view, and proving that getting out of Cartagena’s old town is an absolute must.
