After a festive weekend in Reims spent sipping and cave exploring, it was time to get out of the city and go to the source of that bubbly magic. The closest production region is right outside Reims and is strangely called Montagne de Reims (i.e. Mountain of Reims) although it is much more of a plateau. Geography aside, this region is particularly interesting to visit as it boasts more grands crus villages than any other district in Champagne, grand cru being the highest quality rating (100%!) a producing village can get.
You’ll find them along the ridge of the forest which is in fact a National Park, each dip in the hillside uncovering a tiny village where almost every house is an official champagne producer.
The region’s unmissable landmark is, oddly, a lighthouse some 300 kilometres from the sea. The Phare de Verzenay was built in the early 1900s as a publicity stunt by a champagne house. Today it holds a Champagne museum, a great 360º view from the top, a gift shop, and a tasting room.
Just below it you’ll find the village of Verzenay which is surrounded by some of the most prestigious slopes in the region.
The area is famous for its Pinot Noir and most major brands of champagne such as Veuve Cliquot, Moët & Chandon, Mumm, Taittinger, etc. buy grapes from here to develop their prestige brands.
There isn’t much to do besides admiring the symmetrical design of the vineyards and enjoying the total silence of this bucolic life…
…EXCEPT for one thing which is worth trekking here for, and it’s deep into the forest right behind you. So follow the trail and walk past some fun obstacle courses until you see the sign.
You’ve probably never heard of it but you’ll immediately want to go. There’s a super genius tree-top Champagne bar called Perching Bar which you access through a series of wobbly wooden walkways.
Built around a giant oak tree, it blends perfectly into the surroundings, is powered by solar panels, and is probably the coolest Champagne bar you’ll ever see.
Perch yourself on the outdoor bar and admire the commanding views over the valley.
The slick interior is also very inviting: a grown-up playground with swings and buckets of champagne – what’s not to love?
You’ll have the chance to taste champagnes from small producers…
…and even grab a bite if the views are preventing you from leaving.
You could easily go back to Reims for the night, but why interrupt this quiet interlude when you could simply follow this path through the forest and arrive in Verzy in less than 20 minutes?
It’s tiny but you’ll find 2-3 bed and breakfast in local champagne houses which is an ideal way to see the other side of the production of bubbly.
With a production of around 2,500 bottles a year, a local family’s output is a far cry from the millions of the main houses in Reims.
The machinery is also nothing like what you would have seen before, so interesting to see. The main thing is though, remember that these little guys are all using the best grapes that the top houses are putting into those really expensive cuvées… so make sure you drink plenty while you’re there and buy a few bottles to bring back home!
We stayed at Le Logis aux Bulles, a charming home with great champagne (and only about 25 minutes walk from that tree top bar…just saying!).
