When you arrive in Nicaragua’s oldest colonial city, your gaze is immediately taken by its iconic generations-old buildings of stucco and cement painted in vivid pinks, lime greens, violet, etc. Granada is a city for leisure walkers and anyone who can appreciate historical beauty and good food – hence why it is so popular!
Rival with Leon as the country’s main city, what it lacks in terms of urban buzz Granada definitely makes up for with its colorful aesthetic.
The food is varied and delicious, blending local cuisine with global trends for the increasing number of expats as seen in this delicious dragon fruit smoothie bowl at Pitaya Bowl Cafe.
Life is centered on the Cathedral Square with its candy-colored government buildings…
You’ll see far more locals than tourists here, especially in the parque central in front of the cathedral.
Take a seat in the much appreciated shade and watch them socializing over shaved ice or getting their shoe shined.
You’ll also find some of the best local specialties right in the park at El Gordito in the southwest corner.
You can’t leave Granada before trying the national dish of vigorón which originated here. The unique combo of soft starchy yuca (cassava), crunchy chicharrones (pork rinds), vinegary chopped cabbage, a tangy local fruit called mimbro, and spicy chilli is lip-smacking delicious and perfect enjoyed outside with a local hibiscus juice.
Two blocks away you’ll find the most beautiful church in the city, Iglesia La Merced. Admire its 1534 run-down facade before going in for the real treat.
Climbing to the top of the clock tower offers the best photo opportunities in all of Granada and you’ll be able to capture the entire city, neighboring volcanoes and lake in one jaw-dropping 360 degrees view.
Granada’s main street is the pedestrian-only La Calzada which extends east from the cathedral towards the lake.
Lined with a wide range of bars, restaurants, shops and travel agencies, it sure is a bit touristy but the ample outdoor seating makes it ideal for people watching.
You’ll find Granada’s best bakery on La Calzada – Pan De Vida – which is as good for its breakfasts as it is for lunch (brick oven pizza!).
Their courtyard is a well-kept secret and a serene place to enjoy your baked goods away from the bustle of the street.
Granada’s old mansions hide many courtyards and a lot of them around La Calzada have been transformed into art galleries and shops, so get lost and enjoy discovering the labyrinth of the center’s artistic scene.
If you’re looking for original art, I would highly suggest you go to Ricardo Maya’s Art Studio just a few blocks away on Calle El Arsenal. The Master Cuban Painter has been living in Granada for over 20 years and I found his creations (which have been exhibited in galleries all over the world) to be exquisite and the best I’ve seen in Granada. Our wonderful chats have given me a local perspective on living in Granada and arts in Central America…as well as a stunning souvenir to bring home… 🙂
Few places in Granada can rival The Garden Cafe for its ambiance and gorgeous interiors.
You can stay in the light and airy front room to sip an amazing coffee while browsing the myriads of books lining the walls.
Or you can step inside into their amazing courtyard garden for a peaceful breakfast or lunch.
Get their Nacatamales, a Nicaraguan specialty (the fatty cousin of the Mexican tamale), usually eaten at breakfast time. Steamed corn meal dough holds rice, vegetables and meat wrapped in a large banana leaf, here served with gallo pinto and toast – a filling start to the day!
If the heat of the city has gotten to you or you just feel like relaxing for an afternoon, Mansion de Chocolate is most probably the answer. The oldest colonial mansion in the city was built by the former president Evaristo Carazo around the year 1860 and is now a chocolate-themed hotel and spa.
You can buy a day pass to access the pool or book a massage at the spa which will grant you free access to the premises.
Of course, this being a ‘chocolate-themed’ spa, you should totally try their signature ‘choco therapy’ massage… I did and I can still smell the warm, melted chocolate that was rubbed all over my body!
Slow walking is necessary in Granada since every city block will have a few colorful treasures you’ll want to stop and admire for a while, imagining life behind rainbow-hued walls.
You’ll find a delicious farm-to-table meal at El Garaje, a charming family-run restaurant on Calle Corrales.
Only opened for lunch, it offers super fresh dishes from sandwiches to soups and salads as well as more substantial meat plates.
Cucumber gazpacho
House salad
On the same street, the imposing San Francisco Convent glows in the early evening light. Take a look inside the attached cultural centre which now holds Nicaragua’s best pre-Columbian museum.
Sunset is the right time to take another stroll on La Calzada when the terraces start filling up again and the colors get that extra pop from the golden light.
Make sure you walk all the way to the end of the street to see the Guadalupe Church in all its glory against the dusky sky.
I’ve always liked that time of day too much to sit at a table so I went on a little exploration of my own in the backstreets of Granada which are as full of character as its historical core.
In the west part of town, Parque Xalteva and Xalteva Church are a real hub of local activity.
Originally used as a market a long time ago, it is now a lovely place for locals to hang out amidst the beautiful neoclassical stone structures and cement benches.
Plaza Xalteva across the street is another pretty square that leads to a charming residential part of town – simply take any streets leaving from it to immerse yourself in the barrio!
Elaborate murals seem to appear out of nowhere.
Even intersections get the artistic treatment….
This part of town also has a very hip place to stop for a coffee, a bit of shopping, or a full meal at Espressionista.
The coffee bar/restaurant offers an ambitious menu of international cuisine and is shining a light on the local craft beer scene as well which makes it an ideal evening stop. I had a delicious fish Pho made with fresh, local ingredients and a locally made German beer, and the candlelit atmosphere is also a winner in my book!
If you have an extra day in Granada, there’s a wonderful escape about 20 minutes drive from the city that is an absolute must – Laguna de Apoyo.
Created by the Apoyo volcano at least 20,000 years ago, the crater lake is a natural wonder of 7km in diameter, surrounded by lush green slopes and a rich flora and fauna. The air is crisp and clean, the water cool and clear, and it’s a delight to lay down on one of the small hotels beaches lining the western shore for a day of total relaxation.
Just like a day at the beach, you’ll have your cocktails, fruit juices, and local dishes to satisfy your every need, here sampling an assortment of plaintain tostones topped with local cheese and ground meat.
It’s a great way to end your visit to Granada and prepare you for your upcoming coastal adventure…
