I like saving the best for last, and coincidentally my last days in Nicaragua were spent on the tropical paradise of Ometepe. The 19-mile long island feels like a world away from the rest of the country. A few days spent exploring its relatively untouched nature is all one needs to join the ranks of admirers of this often called ‘mini-amazon’.
Getting there requires a little bit of effort, and catching one of the ferries leaving the port of San Jorge on the mainland.
In a little over an hour you’ll reach the promised land, its iconic twin volcanoes luring you towards its shore.
From the moment you step onto the island, your mind immediately switches to its laid-back setting. The green and lush landscape, farm animals crossing the street, warm welcome from locals who never dreamed of leaving…the mood is slow and happy, just what you needed.
There aren’t any big resorts here (thankfully) so you have the choice between a handful of great, family-run guest houses spread throughout the island or a few more established hotels such as Finca San Juan de la Isla where I spent a few idyllic days.
From the entrance gate, it’s a mile-long road through the beautiful 160 acres of private land, getting immediately immersed in the rustic life…
…and their tropical fruit tree plantation.
The end will no doubt stun you as you disembark to the sound of the crashing waves and the strong lake breeze blowing against the shore. Welcome to my version of a perfect laid-back getaway.
Looking out, it’s pretty impressive to think you’re standing in the middle of a lake with those waves and no sign of the mainland as far as your eyes can see. Lake Nicaragua is indeed Central America’s largest body of freshwater, so vast that Spanish Conquistadors believed it was open sea…
Lake-front bungalows are the real draw here with this view from your bedroom and private terrace.
Or you can opt for even quieter dwellings by staying in one of the rooms by the water pond.
The shared porch is probably one of my favorite spots on the island with impressive birdlife to contemplate and the outline of Maderas volcano in the background (often covered in clouds which adds to the enchantment).
You could spend your days here and truly, really relax, enjoying the healthy meals served all fresco by the beach…
…but you would be missing out on quite a few treasures hidden throughout the island. An easy walk or ride from Finca San Juan will bring you to Ojo de Agua, a pair of natural spring water pools shaded by leafy old trees.
Locals and tourists spend part of the day alternating between dips in the warm water, drying on the sun-dappled rock edges, and snacking in the cooling shade.
The pools are fed by an underground river that comes down from volcano Maderas.
Get some more close-ups of Ometepe’s incredible nature by hiking the trails of Chaco Verde.
The natural reserve is a tropical dry forest, home to an abundance of wildlife and pretty sights at every turn.
Looking towards volcano Maderas in the distance.
The dry jungle eventually rolls back down to shore, revealing a super small and quiet beach if you feel like another dip.
The wet lowlands and mangrove forest are filled with birds and a real treat to wander around with overgrown vegetation encircling your path… stunning.
The path will soon bring you to Laguna Verde with this time a close view of volcano Concepcion.
Make a stop at the Butterfly Sanctuary on your way out for a glimpse of a few intricate creatures.
Next, you’ll want to cross the small strip of land linking the north to the south of the island to find yourself in Ometepe’s hippieland.
The small town of Balgüe is a hub of activity for backpackers who flock to one of the farm-run hostels along the foothills of Maderas. Cheery cafes serving the local bounty line the main road and offer plenty of chilled respite from the hot afternoon sun.
Make some time to go see some of the intriguing rock carvings nearby, like those accessible from Finca Magdalena. Few people know that Ometepe’s sacred native ground is strewn with pre-Columbian petroglyphs dating as far back as 1000 B.C.
When hunger strikes, Cafe Campestre will satisfy all your cravings with their organic farm-to-table offerings.
Just seeing their homemade pasta station should convince you to eat here, and more than once if you’re around for a few days.
The wide-ranging menu makes the most of the produce they grow on their farm, here featured in a scrumptious veggie burrito with plantain chips and passionfruit juice.
Save your sweet tooth though for the nearby El Pital Chocolate Paradise, a raw chocolate factory and juice bar located nearby on a quiet cove.
Hammocks hanging between trees, surfboard decor, people with dreadlocks, crystals and silk floating in the breeze…you get the picture!
They do make some amazing, healthy desserts and of course artisanal raw chocolates flavored with local ingredients. Their totally natural composition means you can’t take them home with you (they wouldn’t survive the trip!) so consume them in this island paradise – it’s where they were meant to be enjoyed.
You’ll soon want to trade your hippie chair for a hammock on that porch back at the hotel though (life is exhausting here)…
…as these Ometepe sunsets are truly a sight to behold.
