Few would consider going to a top beach destination during the heaviest of the rainy season, but ask any Indians and they’ll tell you a million reasons why you should. Hence, after listening to a few good friends and colleagues, we braved the summer monsoon and found ourselves in the tropical paradise of Goa in the south of India.
It’s officially the ‘off season’ here, from about May all the way to September when the rains finally stop. While swimming is out of the question, taking contemplative walks on these gorgeous (and almost empty) stretches of beach is good enough a reason to venture all the way down here. There’s a romantic beauty in the rolling clouds, mist and wind-swept palm trees you’ll be falling hard for…
Another reason to go: the lush, green countryside which is glistening from the daily showers, rice paddies reflecting the ever changing sky.
The streets are super clean too, dust and dirt washed away every day… Come here in the height of tourist season and you’ll likely see a different color palette.
We had our base in South Goa in the small village of Majorda – a quiet and beautiful area with restored Portuguese mansions turned into unique stays.
I’ll always go for the antique and authentic over anything else, and loved the homey atmosphere of Vivenda Dos Palhacos.
Traveling during the monsoon means plenty of time to relax and disconnect. Enjoy a lazy morning listening to the rain pounding on the roof’s tiles while savoring a flavorful Indian breakfast.
No need to rush to the beach for a tanning session, but you’ll want to head to Majorda Beach for lunch at Zeebop by the Sea.
Feet in the sands, rain cover over your head and a cold locally crafted beer in your hands – that’s how you do Goa in the monsoon.
Seafood here is known all over India and it’s delicious so indulge in all the fresh catch you can consume. We feasted on grilled giant prawns, local fish curry, and gobi manchurian (fried cauliflower).
End your meal with a show stopping view of heavy rainfall over the sea…and hurry back to your hotel before it catches you!
If the weather isn’t conducive to seaside dining, the nearby Pentagon restaurant is another favorite for all your classic Indian dishes and Goan specialties…with a large tropical indoor room and bar!
While it would be tempting to stick to the feasting/napping/reading routine that rainy days usually call for, Goa has plenty of attractions made even more special that time of year. Just taking a walk in the country has innumerable benefits as you pass by one bucolic scene after another.
Visiting a spice farm is another unique way to spend some time in nature as the plantations really come alive as the rain fills in the rivers and quenches the crops in the dense jungle around Ponda.
One of the oldest, Sahakari Spice Farm, is not too far from Majorda and offers a quick tour covering some of the things growing right now, such as coffee beans…
…chili peppers, and vanilla climbing up the tree.
Your admission will also include a tasty lunch and the chance to buy some of the farm’s spices and essential oils.
And let’s not forget all the history from the Portuguese colonial era which left behind incredible buildings, culture, and so much more in Old Goa and the capital city of Panjim.
The Se Cathedral is the most ancient and well-known religious buildings in Goa and used to be the largest church in all of Asia. Walking up to the imposing facade is bound to leave you in awe even under the grayest of skies.
There’s a simplicity in the Corinthian interior when you first walk in, but venture to the sides (the cathedral has four chapels on either side) and that’s where you’ll find centuries-old treasures.
There are wood screens with astonishing filigree carvings and paintings depicting scenes from the lives of the saints still so colorful after all this time.
Peeking through ornately carved wooden doors leads to even more enchantment.
Cross the big square (noticing all the curiously leaning trees?) to reach another one of Goa’s aging beauty.
Basilica of Bom Jesus, a UNESCO-listed Baroque Catholic church, is revered by Christians worldwide as it holds the mortal remains of St. Francis Xavier.
The plaster covering it has been removed by a zealous conservationist which gives the church its unique appearance.
Step inside to admire the simple but grand interior and the gilded, very ornate screen behind the altar that commands all the attention.
Nearby Panjim (also know as Panaji) is the capital of Goa and a charming cultural hub perfect for spending a day.
Get your bearings by going up to the baroque Our Lady of Immaculate Conception Church set on a hill overlooking the city.
Look down at the maze of colorful streets and lanes branching out in every direction and take your pick of route to follow.
It’s a rather compact city so feel free to wander at will, though you absolutely must at some point make your way East to the tiny but incredibly atmospheric neighborhood of Fontainhas.
Declared a UNESCO Heritage Zone in 1984, Fontainhas is filled with old Portuguese homes of every color imaginable which lends the area an old world feel.
This is where the rulers of the Portuguese government were living in the 1800s and their stately residences will brighten the dreariest of days.
Walk up Rua 31 de Janeiro for quaint coffee shops, galleries selling ceramic tiles and contemporary art, and restaurants blending Portuguese and Goan cuisines.
My favorite sight though has to be the playground at the end of the street with the splendid Portuguese wall highlighting traditional tiles motifs.
Ever seen a mismatch look that good?
You’ll be thankful to have an array of lovely shops and cafes to rush into when the sky suddenly explodes (as it inevitable will, ’tis the monsoon!).
Get warm and dry over a hot cup of coffee and a traditional Goan dessert of Bebinca – a rich layered cake made with coconut milk, eggs, butter and flour. The Verandah at the Panjim Inn is a great place to try it with its covered, antiques-filled verandah oozing Indo-Portuguese charm.
Leave (reluctantly) Fontainhas behind and explore Old Panjim with its commerce-heavy streets, casinos, and a few vibrant temples.
Old age and weather have often left buildings in what I personally find to be a beautiful decay, remnants of vibrant facades washed down and slowly being taken over by nature. A motivated photographer could fill days hunting down the best patina…
Around sunset, make a stop at Boca de Vaca, one of two springs in Panjim and a nice and peaceful spot in the city especially with the soft evening lights on.
Down the block you’ll find Sacha’s Shop for cool designer clothing and an even cooler entrance made of beautiful wall art.
Hop in Black Sheep Bistro next door for a late night bite or a cocktail. While you’ll find much better local food elsewhere, this is a nice fancier bar if you crave a change of scenery and to try some international fusion.
They even had poutine…loaded with non traditional ingredients but great to soak up a series of tasty drinks.
Between the laid back beach villages, ultra vibrant greenery, many cultural attractions, yummy food and cozy homes everywhere to rest your wet feet, monsoon is without a doubt a fantastic time to get yourself down to Goa (and experience it without the usual throngs of tourists…!).
