Old Europe has quite a large number of what we call ‘fairytale towns’, each more charming than the other with their storybook streets and medieval buildings. I still remember the picturesque skyline of Tallinn and dream of getting lost again in the narrow alleys of Troyes. Switzerland though gave me the most artistic of them all in Stein am Rhein, one of the best preserved medieval small towns in the German-speaking world.
Sitting on the banks of the Rhine River, the view from the bridge as you approach the old town already hints at its storybook quality with pretty houses along the river’s edge and a castle up on the hill.
Once encircled by defensive town walls, they’ve since all been transformed into houses except for the two remaining town gates.
It’s an easy day trip from Zurich, but if you decide to spend the night (and I recommend you do, the evening brings a whole other level of charm), the simple Hotel Rheingerbe is a great choice. Its riverfront restaurant is a delightful place to eat the local food while watching the sunset…
…and its cozy bedrooms give you uninterrupted views of the Rhine and its activities.
Now let’s start the visual tour from behind the hotel. You can take it real slow as even at a snail’s pace, you could cover every streets and alleys in an hour. That’s part of Stein am Rhein’s appeal – a compact core that is so full of marvels you’ll need a few tours to really take it all in.
The main street, Understadt, runs right in the middle and is lined with restaurants, cafes, and souvenir shops. Don’t let the busyness distract you from noticing the facades with delightful timber decoration.
If you wonder what it was like to live here around 1850, step into the Museum Lindwurm just up the street for an immersive experience.
Many houses feature antique signs and guild symbols.
You’ll soon arrive at the ‘piece de resistance’ and what makes Stein am Rhein such a visual jewel: Rathausplatz.
The main square is lined by some of the town’s most exceptional buildings, all adorned with beautiful paintings.
The town hall sits at the center of it all, equally majestic with its richly painted facades you’ll want to admire from up close.
No other towns I’ve ever visited could claim to be an outdoor gallery as much as Stein am Rhein, and the preservation is fantastic.
You won’t be able to take your eyes away for a while, so might as well get some food at one of the few restaurants right on the plaza such as the lovely terrace of Hotel Adler.
A lunch of crispy Rösti topped with tomatoes and cheese and served with a glass of chilled white wine…this outdoor gallery keeps on getting better!
The side streets leading away from the main square provide a quieter and more private exploration. There are no less pleasing to the eyes with their colorful residences and climbing vines acting as the real artwork.
When do you ever get the luxury of your own exquisite square? This one came with a gurgling fountain and benches calling for you to sit down and contemplate the beauty all around for as long as you wish.
Every meandering alley can put you in front of some the finest half-timbered houses in Switzerland, each one a marvel of design.
Soon you’ll start to notice a recurring motif…St. George slaying the dragon! It is the town’s emblem hence visible on pothole covers as well as prominently displayed above the doors of some of the most famous buildings.
St. George has a huge significance in Stein am Rhein and is for the most part the reason we know the town as it exists today. Stein am Rhein was just a quaint fishing village until 1007, when St. George’s Abbey was moved here by Henry II and the town grew around it.
It’s easy to see how it flourished given its strategic location along the major trade route of the Rhine.
Now the abbey is a wonderful museum and absolutely worth a visit as it was the highlight of day for me (ok, maybe tie with the Rathausplatz).
You’ll be left alone to wander around the former Benedictine monastery complex, taking in the beautiful wooden decor and antiques.
There’s an undeniable romanticism and opulence in some of the rooms, which only hints at the prosperity of the last monks who graced these walls.
The garden is equally splendid and probably the town’s most beautiful picnic spot.
It’s hard to tell the scale of the monastery from outside the walls, but there are three interior yards as well as a church all interconnected.
The most popular room is without a doubt the spectacular Banquet Hall where one will find every wall covered in unique early-Renaissance murals – among the earliest known in northern Europe.
End the tour in the apartments that are, in my opinion, an architectural jewel, with that gorgeous light from the Rhine river peeking through…
A short walk over the bridge will give you a new perspective on the monastery, its size, and absolutely perfect location.
By then you would have seen most of the town but a second stroll is absolutely in order, especially at sundown.
You’ll be surprised just how many features you’ve missed, some high up on the walls where only those in the know would think to lift their eyes…
And that golden light brings a new life to the painted murals, highlighting tableaux usually washed out by the harsh midday sun.
Hopefully you’ve spent the night and have some time for one last glimpse of Stein am Rhein, this time from high above. Get a healthy breakfast of Swiss bircher muesli in the plaza, already buzzing with cycling tourists and locals starting their day.
Stepping outside the Old Town gates, look up to see this morning’s destination: Hohenklingen Castle.
It’s a nice little walk up a few residential streets then through vineyards before reaching the woods surrounding the castle.
The views are already making your a.m. workout worth it as you slowly start to see the Rhine flowing and the outskirts of town.
After about 20 minutes you’ll enter the woods for a few more minutes of ascent.
The castle will soon appear out of nowhere, the entrance gate just a few feet away. Go in and revisit the Middle Ages…
Dating back to 1200, Burg Hohenklingen is now a high-end restaurant and wedding venue.
You can have lunch or dinner with this gorgeous view.
It’s just a perfect way to end your visit to this fairytale town. Looking from above, Stein am Rhein truly resembles a storybook cover with its bridge over the Rhine and its tiny size. Prettiness both from deep within and far away – rare and unforgettable.
