Leaving Aksum behind us to continue the historical Northern circuit of Ethiopia, it wasn’t long before the road ahead started climbing. What awaited us around the next bend was only the beginning of one of the most spectacular drive I ever took as we slowly made our way into the heart of the Ethiopian Highlands…
Our destination, which we would reach after a full day of driving, made stunning apparitions between hills and valleys. The jagged peaks of the Simien Mountains were finally coming into focus for a first and certainly not last panoramic photo stop. This was the very moment that we all acknowledged the world had been missing out on one of the most beautiful mountain scenery there was – and so few knew about it!
Jiggling with excitement, we kept going. The landscape leveled up for a while as we passed by large refugee camps – semi-permanent settlements for nearby Eritreans who fled to escape the compulsory military service in their home country.
A quick stop for lunch in a sunny village gave us an occasion to stretch our legs and catch a few more glimpses of the mountains…
… as well as the local life.
The afternoon saw the road turn to dirt and us climbing steeply through the clouds. A fine drizzle only accentuated the dramatic landscape and our arrival on “the Roof of Africa”.
After what seemed like an eternity, we finally reached the small village of Debark, the official gateway to the Simien Mountains National Park. Everyone must stop by the park’s headquarters here to pay a fee and hire local guides who will take you into the park and lead your hikes and treks.
Then it was a further 45 min drive up to reach our destination, passing tiny villages and this bucolic setting with a lovely Orthodox church surrounded by farm animals.
We finally arrived just before sundown at Simien Lodge, our home for the night which also happens to be the highest hotel in all of Africa at 3,260 m!!
Twenty traditional Tukul (the typical round houses seen in parts of eastern Africa) hug the side of a cliff during the gorgeous golden hour. We’re told to walk up slowly as the altitude is already being felt on our tired bodies.
Our cozy quarters include a decent hot shower and piles of blankets for those crisp mountain nights.
We hurried outside to catch the last few rays and contemplate the surreal pastoral scene right outside our doors. Have we been transported to Tuscany? Rolling hills with farmsteads, grazing cattle and lush pasture as far as the eyes can see…not the Ethiopia we’ve been told about for sure!
Watching the sun sets while standing tall on the Roof of Africa is a treat as much as was the journey to get here.
How cozy the night will be…
Evenings are spent inside the round bar which always has a roaring fire going on (I forgot to take a pic at night) and an impressive menu of wine and cocktails while hearty food is served in the dining room next door. A much better option than camping!
Mornings here are glorious, and hopefully you’ve gotten a good night of sleep as the altitude can make some sleepers pretty restless… Nevertheless, the views greeting us from the highest hotel in Africa were worth getting out of bed for.
After a solid breakfast, we set off on foot from the lodge to go explore Ethiopia’s highest mountain range with the hopes of stumbling upon some of its incredible flora and fauna.
A few minutes later, we were facing the first of many stunning views from right behind the lodge. It’s like nowhere else on earth. I wasn’t surprised to later find out that the Simien Mountains were one of the first sites to be made a World Heritage Site by UNESCO in 1978. Millions of years of erosion of the Ethiopian plateau have created stunning serrated mountain peaks, deep valleys and sheer cliffs which today are still home to unique flowers and rare creatures – the biggest draw for visitors coming all the way here.
As if by magic, it wasn’t long before we saw our first such creatures appearing at the top of the hill and coming towards us: Geladas!!
I had been dreaming of that day after seeing their striking features gracing the pages of National Geographic magazines and African tours brochures so imagine my excitement on this bright and cool morning…
Geladas are baboon-like monkeys that are only found in the Ethiopian Highlands. Also known as the “bleeding heart monkey” for the bright pink patch of skin on their chest, they can be seen in large groups fairly easily around here.
As the world’s only grass-eating monkeys, there are truly no other animals left like them as they are the last surviving species of ancient grazing primates that were once numerous.
That lion-like mane is almost as characteristic as their colorful chest and shines brightly in the morning light. I stood there for a while observing them plucking and munching on grass and herbs, something they’ll be spending most of the day doing!
Mother and child are inseparable, at least until the baby has learned to feed himself.
Obviously curious by nature, they kept me at close watch with their heavily wrinkled face that seemed to belong to a 95 years old man. I just couldn’t help but make a Benjamin Button reference whenever I stared at one!
Can you think of a better morning hike than to hang out with these incredible creatures against such a beautiful backdrop?
Geladas are not known to be good tree climbers since they spend about 99% of their time on the ground, so at most you’ll see them sit comfortably on the lowest branch just a few feet up.
After a little while enjoying their company we continued on our way, tracing the contour of the cliff and taking in the sights and sounds of the Simiens.
Feather-like trees, lichen-covered trunks, endemic flowery bushes and bird songs accompany our gentle hike.
Some more jaw-dropping scenery of the park keeps appearing around every turn.
Soon, another form appears ahead – a single gelada grazing by himself, in the mist.
The morning mist sure hides some great views but it does add a mysterious and artistic quality to nature photography…
Eventually making our way back to the lodge, who do you think was there to welcome us?
Yes, a big old group of Geladas hanging right by our rooms. That is to say that if you stay at Simien Lodge, not only your chances of seeing these precious monkeys are pretty high, you might not even need to leave your bed to enjoy their company!
More time with them meant observing even more closely their behaviors to my greatest joy. From babies feeding…
… to a little one perhaps foraging for the first time…
…to family disputes? One thing’s for sure, these are not quiet animals. Geladas possess one of the most varied vocal repertoires of all primates and are known to be very noisy, fact we can confirm after being surrounded by 50 of them for a while.
Alas, it was time to depart and I sure was glad they were checking us out as we took our leave.
More breathtaking vistas awaited on the road and only gave me the craving to come back for multiple days of trekking. The forces of nature have created such a vast and stunning landscape here with cascading waterfalls and escarpments that give views for days.
A lot more to be discovered from the Roof of Africa, but for now we’ll be making our way down slightly to our next destination…
