Like two sides of a coin, the sister cities that form Los Cabos are almost at opposite ends of the spectrum, and one should consider the style of vacation one wants before picking a destination. While lively Cabo San Lucas is constantly buzzing with parties, action-packed tours and rowdy beaches, the more laid-back San Jose del Cabo, only 20 minutes away, draws visitors in search of small town charm and a vibrant art community.
The compact downtown area is a peaceful enclave of cobblestone streets lined with colorful, Spanish-colonial era buildings and jacaranda trees.
The main square, Plaza Mijares, is perfect for some people watching while snacking on a churro and contemplating some fine example of historic architecture.
The 19th century City Hall has some beautiful wall murals inside and exhibits often take place right on the plaza all around.
There’s a thriving art scene here that spills onto the streets and courtyards, luring you in to see unique work of arts from modern sculptures to paintings and jewelry.
Hopping from one gallery to the next is an ideal way to spend an afternoon with plenty of quaint cafes and bars to keep you fueled during your very pleasant meandering.
I often find my favorite art in a format not so easy to take home… a picture will have to do!
Art takes on a different form at Tamarindos Coffee Roasters where freshly roasted beans are extracted with scientific precision to deliver incredible taste in a cup. The shaded courtyard only adds to this sensorial experience, allowing you to focus on your fine libation in peace.
First the barista will make you choose your preferred method of extraction between chemex, espresso, cold brew, etc. and then present you with samples of all the available beans and roasts for you to smell your way to your ideal match. Take your time… this is a very enjoyable exercise and akin to attending a fine wine tasting. If all my coffee drinking experiences could be so mindful!
Then…you wait. It almost seems torturous with all the coffee aromas wafting through the air but you can’t rush a perfect cup of coffee. Also, you won’t see any sugar or dairy here as it would be sacrilegious. Once you receive your precious black gold, stare at it for a moment, breathe deeply, maybe look deep into your reflection in anticipation of the immense joy you’re about to feel…and take a sip.
Food lovers have long flocked to San Jose’s suburbs for a meal at one of the exceptional farm-to-table restaurants that are to be found a 10-15 minutes drive from the historical center. There are three currently that I’m aware off: Tamarindos, Flora Farms, and Acre. I visited the latter for a leisurely lunch and urge anyone visiting the area to make a stop here a priority.
Acre is a lush complex featuring elegant rooms in treehouses, an organic farm, a bar and restaurant, and 25 acres of jungle-like grounds for you to feel immersed in nature everywhere you look.
Check in at the bar for a botanical cocktail or two…
…and move on to the restaurant for a memorable meal in a jungle setting.
The menu is driven by ingredients grown on-site and made to please everyone with a tempting mix of Mexican and Western dishes, all with that Baja feel – healthy, fresh and hyper local. I opted for the mushroom carnitas tacos which has to be the best vegetarian tacos I’ve ever eaten so packed full of flavors they were.
A light coconut and mango granita was the perfect ending to a hot day lunch.
You can digest your meal by either roaming the beautiful grounds or letting yourself be tempted by their homemade mezcal tasting… Tough decision!
If you visit San Jose del Cabo during the high season (November – June), make sure you stay here on a Thursday night for the lively Art Walk.
For one evening per week, the usually peaceful city puts on a party dress and turns its historic art district center into one giant block party. Galleries and shops are opened late, the streets are closed off to traffic, and live music is blasting everywhere. It’s still a lot less raucous than in Cabo and the festive atmosphere is a delight.
Pop in and out of galleries as you please, sample some free tequila, and eventually settle at a busy restaurant for a late dinner in joyous company.
There are many great eateries within the district and picking one might prove a challenge. The ultra popular La Lupita Taco & Mezcal certainly won’t disappoint if you don’t mind waiting a bit.
The made-from-scratch tortillas enclose some pretty addictive fillings from the traditional al pastor to tender short ribs with goat cheese. Get a few tacos, a cold cerveza and a potent mezcal cocktail listening to the tunes of a local live band – this is how you end a ‘sophisticated’ party night in Los Cabos.
