Visiting Morocco’s “Jewel of the South” (as Marrakech is often referred to) is bound to profoundly move you whether or not you’ve travelled to other exotic locales before. It’s one of those places that will permanently reside within your fondest travel memories, vignettes popping out years after you’ve returned filled with jeweled colored alleys and vivid smells of spices simmering. Marrakech’s old town, the Medina, is its beating heart and throwing yourself into its enchanting and disorienting chaos is one of life’s greatest adventures…
Think of the medina as a living historic town enclosed by over 19km of fortified walls punctuated with gates. Once you’re inside, it can look like the most confusing labyrinth of narrow alleys snaking their way into every direction and often not appearing on any Google maps… Leave your phone behind and embrace the twists and turns that will inevitably lead you to treasures and surprising discoveries.
Your eyes find the first bearing, a common thread of pinkish colors emanating from the walls all made from a coral-colored clay. This warm hue gave Marrakech its nickname of “The Red City” and is the most fitting backdrop to all the vivid tones displayed within its center.
From stalls in the souks to fancier retail stores, shopping is the lifeblood of the medina and everyone comes here to find pieces to bring home they’ll treasure forever. The artisan trade is thriving, whether you’re looking for a traditional handcrafted pillow cover or contemporary ceramic dinnerware. The hardest part will be to note where you’ve seen something you liked and be able to find it later once you’ve made up your mind…
Buying a traditional Moroccan rug in Marrakech is a rite of passage and is at once daunting and very enjoyable. Be ready to dedicate a few hours at least to the task and have a slight idea of the look and colors you’re looking for. With dozens of Berber tribes each with its own style, no two rugs are alike and the indecisive will live through a mild torture watching hundreds of rugs being laid out at their feet. I brought home two that were instant crush though not everyone is that lucky. 🙂
Every once in a while, the cramped alley you’re following opens up to a bustling open air market such as the cheery Place des Épices.
If you’ve built up an appetite, right around the corner is the lovely Moroccan fusion restaurant L’mida.
Perch yourself up on their beautiful emerald green roof terrace for expansive views over the medina.
Then tuck into modern takes on Moroccan classics.
You’re in the center of the medina now where alleys get narrower, more secretive. It’s easy to follow in the footsteps of the locals who always seem in a hurry (perhaps because they know exactly where they’re heading!) but these tiny alleys are calling for you to really slow down…
Otherwise, you’d be missing out on all the gorgeously carved wooden and metal doors on either sides and around every bend. They’re the only adorned portion of the high walls encircling you and give out nothing as to the treasures they hide. Is it a riad? A handwoven rug shop? An exclusive gallery? Or a private residence?
There’s rarely any posters or murals – the ancient walls are the real artwork showing layers of history if you take a moment to lift your gaze up.
Well hidden behind those walls, Le Jardin Marrakech welcomes you like an oasis in the driest of deserts. Its breezy green decor, vegetables on display, and abundance of plants make it one of the most soothing lunch spots around.
Settle in the courtyard of this 60s styled riad and relax to the sound of birds chirping all around – you will immediately forget about the hectic pace beyond its walls.
The menu blends Moroccan and Western dishes and especially shines in the vegetarian department, showcasing refreshing and colorful local produce.
Revived, continue your contemplative walk, passing through iconic arched keyhole doorways typical of Moroccan architecture.
By now the color palette should have really grown on you and seeing “La Vie en Rose” is only one of the many memories of Marrakech that’ll really stick with you. I should know – one of the first thing I did upon returning home is paint one of my rooms with the aptly named “36 hours in Marrakech” color from Backdrop. It is stunning and immediately brings me back within the walls of the medina.
More colors await in the spices and tea shops, their bulk dried petals emitting a faint perfume in the air…while the tanners across the way boil wool and cotton to turn into vibrant scarfs, rugs, and bags.
Textiles and woven fabric seem to be everywhere, but eventually as you approach the heart of the medina under the covered alleys, you’ll hit the souk filled with antiques and brass metals. The intricate metal lanterns are absolutely gorgeous and definitely worth bringing home.
When you reach the Souk Cherifia, a sort of mini-mall with designer shops featuring modern takes on traditional clothing and accessories, make sure you go up to find the door to the open-air restaurant La Terrasse des Épices.
The inviting rooftop terrace is so comfortable you might find yourself whiling away the rest of the afternoon – no one will blame you!
You can watch the action from above nibbling on some light fare or a full meal if you wish.
Going the sweet route is a great way to break the day here as they have their own patisserie downstairs. We shared a plate of buttery Moroccan pastries with a pot of sweet mint tea – perfect midday break. Although if you need to take the edge off the hustle and bustle, know that it’s one of the few places in the medina that serves alcohol so it gets really popular at sundown for a glass of rosé or draft beer.
Which one to choose… horns of gazelle, almond pasta, briouates with honey, shortbread…
Once you make your way down south (your cardinal points are probably all jumbled by now) the medina will literally spit you out into the wide expanse of the famous Jemaa El Fna square. This is THE gathering place at the heart of the city and if you stand in one place long enough, you should witness the entire spectrum of life in Marrakech from sun up to sundown. Snake charmers, monkey trainers, Berber musicians, dancers, poets and tooth-pullers all compete for your attention while the smell of sizzling meats coming from the food stalls at night set the stage for a memorable evening.
Grab a few snacks to munch on while you take it all in. We were fixated on all the olives that glistened like jewels in heaping, colorful piles.
Come dinnertime, retreat inside the walls of the wonderful Dar Cherifa, an intimate and homey restaurant set within one of the oldest Riads in Marrakech.
Tables are few and generously spaced, candles provide a romantic glow, water fountains gurgle in the background…the clamour of the medina suddenly feels world away.
Lovingly restored, the splendors of this 16th century mansion are still on full display today, from the extraordinary carved cedar wood paneling to the tiles adorning the four internal façade walls.
Intimate nooks provide a serene and almost private dining experience.
The cuisine is as comforting as the setting with a simple à la carte menu of traditional Moroccan dishes.
Their specialty is tanjias which are couscous-laden stews and a must after a long day of nonstop walking around the souks.
Whether day or night, you’re sure to see plenty of cats around roaming the streets, sleeping in shops, guarding restaurants doors…
Another great dinner option is Le Trou au Mur (Hole in the Wall). A bit hard to find, once you locate the tiny door in a nondescript alley you’ll be glad you dropped by this upscale restaurant with a unique decor.
The traditional zigzag patterned, black-and-white tiled floor, funky chairs and gorgeous paintings on the walls kept catching my eyes all evening.
The concept is unique and the food unlike what you would have seen elsewhere. The menu is inspired by family-style recipes handed down over many years and gives them a modern twist with a refined presentation. It’s a peek into the world of Moroccan home-style cooking rarely seen outside private homes, packed with strong flavors and fresh ingredients.
Homemade ice cream and sorbet with flavors of strawberry and anis, chili chocolate, Ral al Hanout and almond pastilla was an ending as flavorful as the entire meal.
The medina at night is in sharp contrast to its daytime version. With everyone retreated behind closed doors, stalls stashed away, colors washed out under the moonlight, it’s a muted though no less enchanting labyrinth to take one last stroll in (and for once you don’t have to constantly make way for tooting mopeds!).
Nights in Marrakech always end in a sumptuous ‘palace’ as few cities boast as many glamourous and storied accommodations. From grand hotels literally fit for a king like the Royal Mansour to the hundreds of traditional riads renovated by international designers, you’re guaranteed to have a wonderful guesthouse experience. We checked in to Riad New Moon, a serene and tastefully decorated riad right in the medina.
The seven-room guesthouse has lounges where breakfast is served every morning and all the modern amenities you need while maintaining its traditional charm.
Wrought-iron balustrades set around a leafy courtyard and the predominance of black and white is very chic and cooling after the riots of colors from the streets right outside.
And of course there’s a sunny rooftop terrace with loungers to rest in between shopping sprees.
All seven rooms are individually decorated with local handiwork and keeping with the soothing neutral palette.
Alas, like everywhere else, the medina is looking very different these days. I was actually there right when the COVID-19 lockdown started so got to see both sides and the empty medina is as sad a sight as you can imagine.
Thinking hard about all those wonderful and hospitable artisans, restaurateurs and shopkeepers who keep the heart of Marrakech beating. I promise I will be back as I truly fell for this magical red city. In the meantime, if you want to have a piece of Morocco home and help support local artisans, you can shop on Chabi-Chic: they have amazing local goods and are helping small businesses through their “Save The Medina” campaign by selling their gifts online (and they ship internationally too).
