Maine’s undeniable beauty is on full display on Mount Desert Island, home of both the town of Bar Harbor and the world-famous Acadia National Park. With easy access to the island’s outdoorsy pursuits and a wealth of B&Bs, shops, and restaurants, Bar Harbor remains the best launchpad to take it all in and quickly hop between hiking, photographing iconic lighthouses, and feasting on freshly boiled lobsters.
One would think that the town’s remoteness (the five-hour drive north from Boston is no easy feat) would keep the crowds at bay but Bar Harbor’s popularity, especially with families, is as high as ever. What used to be a summer haven for the rich and famous seeking the cool mountain and seaside breeze is now a fun and slightly kitschy getaway to enjoy nature at its finest.
With most attractions only a few minutes drive away, you can spend at least a day just strolling around town, browsing the shops , and people watching.
Start the day right with a giant breakfast at Cafe This Way, a quirky cafe in a leafy courtyard smack in the middle of town.
The blueberry pancakes (blueberries are Maine’s official state fruits and found absolutely everywhere) are a must: thin with crispy edges and filled with tiny, wild blueberries. They’ll set you up for whatever you’ve planned for the day ahead.
Walk over to Agamont Park for beautiful views of the harbor. This little hilltop park is a fabulous place to just relax and watch the boats slowly go by.
From the bottom of the park, you’ll see the beginning of the Shore Path – a half-mile path that hugs the coastline and offers views of nearby islands. It’s a delightful walk, so much so that I did it a few times at various times of the day to see different light, tide, and activity on the water.
You’ll also get a glimpse into the backyard of the best and chicest hotels lining the waterfront, once the residences of the Vanderbilts and Rockefellers of days past.
Character rich old fences and wild roses encircle beautiful private mansions on one side with the granite-filled shore on the other. You can veer off the path and find a nice spot to sit on the rocks if you’d like – it’s a nice place to relax and breathe in that salty air.
With very limited eating options in the national park, coming back to Bar Harbor for lunch after a hike or a drive around the island is usually the best idea and there are tons of great casual places to grab a filling bite. Of all the many lobster rolls I ingested in Maine, the one at Side Street Cafe is very near the top and you shouldn’t leave town without trying it.
Huge chunks of lobster meat, probably the most generous portion I’ve seen, and a very decent cup of clam chowder are just what you need after an active morning.
The pub-like restaurant has a pretty large menu with burgers, tacos, salads, crab cakes, etc. and original drinks (yes, it’s blueberries at the bottom of that cocktail).
Another solid option is the Thirsty Whale Tavern.
Pretty decent lobster roll with a lovely lobster bisque on the side. It’s a little easier to get a seat here than at the crazy busy Side Street Cafe so this can be a good plan B if you’re starving…
If timing allows it, a great thing to do right in Bar Harbor is to walk to Bar Island via a natural land bridge that appears at low tide. Connecting Bridge Street in Bar Harbor to the western edge of Bar Island, this rocky bridge is unveiled twice a day and disappears about three hours later so you have to plan your trip back in time lest you want to be stuck on this uninhabited island for nine hours.
The water retreating unveils tide pools and a treasure trove of sea creatures kids and adults alike love to explore.
The rugged and forested Bar Island has an easy hiking trail about a mile long that will take you to the island’s highest point.
Views of Bar Harbor and Frenchman Bay are splendid from this vantage point.
Back in town, kill the late afternoon hours by strolling through the leafy residential streets around downtown (it’s pretty small – you won’t get lost!) and admiring the mix of old cottages and grand mansions.
For a fun dinner or even just pre-dinner drinks and snacks, it’s hard to beat Project Social Kitchen & Bar.
Right on the main street, the cool tapas and cocktail restaurant has tables spread out all around the big house from the large courtyard and front porch to the inside salons.
Follow dinner with an evening walk along the pier and the Shore Path which takes on a lovely glow at sunset before settling in the park with an ice cream cone… as one does around here.
While most of the island is covered by Acadia National Park, driving around its perimeter and seeing the handful of coastal villages can be as enthralling as climbing to the island’s highest summits. In Northeast Harbor, the Asticou Azalea Garden is a worthwhile stop especially in the spring for obvious reasons.
Take a slow stroll through the manicured gardens and get your zen on – you’ll notice the strong Japanese influence and aesthetic at every turn.
The tranquil village of Somesville is the oldest settlement on the island dating back to 1761 and is now a National Historic District. Visitors come in to look at beautifully preserved examples of early New England architecture…
… and what must be one of the most photographed bridges in the state. The small white footbridge that arches over the stream flowing from Somes Pond to Somes Sound is as picturesque as it gets.
There’s even a modern art gallery – the Gallery at Somes Sound – for art enthusiasts and collectors with a nice mixture of fine art and sculptured furniture.
Besides being quaint and photogenic, another major draw of driving along the coast is the opportunity to eat lobster fresh off the boat in a secluded setting unlike the busy waterfront in Bar Harbor. One not to miss is Abel’s Lobster located right by a natural fjord.
Settle at a picnic table with calming views of boats bobbing on the water and get ready for a very memorable meal.
Whole lobsters are steamed and cooked in seawater over wood fire and served with drawn butter and an addictive paprika aioli. Cracking the shell and dipping huge chunks of tender lobster meat in warm butter while looking out over the sound is one of the best afternoon plan you can have – probably my favorite meal of the whole trip.
Continue the gustatory high by visiting the Atlantic Brewery Company tasting room nearby.
With eight beers on tap, a tasting flight is in order and will reveal a few favorites. Their blueberry ale is famous and I was pleasantly surprised by how delicious it was, bringing a few bottles home as well as their IPA and porter…great variety!
Continuing the drive clock wise, you can stop at Echo Lake Beach which is one of only two lakes on the island where swimming is permitted.
You can also visit nearby a traditional New England homestead (Carroll Homestead) to see how three generations of the Carrolls lived off the land almost 200 years ago.
Soon you reach the south of the island with beautiful vistas.
At the southernmost tip, you’ll find one of Maine’s most photographed lighthouses (if not THE most photographed): Bass Harbor Head Lighthouse. You’ll need to scramble down on the rocky shore to get a good shot and it’s worth it, just to see that iconic landmark from up close.
Back in Bar Harbor, you have your pick of restaurants for dinner from classic favorites to new adventurous hot spots. Seeing as we had lobster for lunch we opted for the international cuisine at CIAO Food + Drink.
From duck confit and ribs to bruschetta, it’s an eclectic mix in a charming little restaurant perfect for a date night with a good glass of wine. Hit the bed early because tomorrow you’re going to Acadia National Park and you’ll want an early start to beat the crowd and see as much as possible!
