Although merely a few blocks east of Oaxaca’s centro, the Jalatlaco neighborhood somehow feels like it’s own little world, full of exquisite vignettes at every turn.
One of the oldest neighborhoods in Oaxaca, it delivers on charm and quaint cobblestone streets without the traffic and noise of the centro. After exploring for a few weeks, I’d say without a doubt this is where I’d love to settle for a little bit next time I visit, away from the hustle and bustle and closer to the local life while keeping everything within walking distance. If you haven’t yet been to Oaxaca, check out Jalatlaco for your rental or hotel – that’s the best tip I can give you.
It’s a candy-colored feast for the eyes where every day and every walk feels like stepping into a quiet fiesta (my favorite kind). No honking or crowds of tourists, just you and the gentle flap of rainbow paper flags above…
Street art covers many of the walls, from coffee shops to private residences, turning an already enchanting streetscape into a life-size canvas for local artists.
Making sure you’ve explored every alleys and dead ends and captured every murals is a quest worth coming back to Jalatlaco for again and again.
You’ll mostly find coffee shops in this neighborhood and a few casual restaurants to fill you up between your artful meanderings. Las Chilmorelas can’t be missed with its bright ketchup exterior flanking one of the entrances to Jalatlaco.
The breakfast and lunch restaurant specializes in chilaquiles which come in various versions and are all served in large molcajetes. Get a delicious agua del dia for a filling and healthy meal.
For a side of panoramic scenery with your lunch, head to La Terraza del Copal. A cheerful rooftop with traditional Mexican food and views into the distant mountains – what’s not to love?
For dessert, you can pick from the myriads of coffee shops and bakeries, or why not grab a fresh paleta from La paletteria Jalatlaco and take it for a walk?
Another option is to find the semi-hidden Dark Heladeria for their thematic black ice cream (charcoal-based) adorned with sugar skull.
The nexus of Jalatlaco is at the intersection of Miguel Hidalgo and Aldama where the liveliest streets meet.
Wedding photography spills out from the nearby church, walking tours gather near the steps, coffee shops tables are filled with people watchers…this is as busy as the usually tranquil neighborhood ever gets.
Yet, you only need to walk two blocks north and find yourself alone again with the characters on the walls your only companions.
Mercado de la Merced at the edge of the neighborhood is a lovely local market specializing in food whether you want to grocery shop or eat a full meal there (you can also find a small number of woven goods and small gifts though not as impressive as in Benito Juarez Market – fyi).
There are mountains of fresh produce for your cooking and snacking needs, including my favorite delight: a huge tub of passion fruit pulp with seeds ready to be spooned on top of your morning yogurt or afternoon ice cream. My mornings have never been the same without it…
Turn a corner and you’ll find all the meat and fish with fresh baked tortillas.
The adjoining building has bakeries and fondas (family-run eateries) where you can sit down and enjoy a delicious meal.
Pick one and enjoy a full plate of enchiladas or a bursting cheese and zucchini flowers quesadilla, one of my favorites.
Spot the impressive balls of Oaxaca cheese (also known as quesillo) which is a staple of the diet and found in nearly every dish here. The string cheese melts like a dream with long, delicious and salty strands of cheese following your fork as you pull it away. It’s addictive and no surprise it’s used in all kinds of ways from shredded topping on soups and tostadas to main filling for quesadillas, tacos and pizzas.
End the day at one of the artsy local bars sans the centro crowds but with equally refined libations.
May I suggest Casa Armadillo Negro? Cool space with arts on the wall, tasty mezcal cocktails, great food menu and some live music in a totally relaxed atmosphere – a perfect embodiment of Jalatlaco to end your tour.
Reforma
The neighborhood just north of Jalatlaco is the quiet Reforma. Here you’ll find a more residential vibe and a number of unique restaurants to enjoy in a more relaxed atmosphere. I’m adding this quick mention here as it’s only a few minutes walk from Jalatlaco and there’s one place that’s on a great number of “must-visit” lists I thought you should know about: Itanoni.
This tortilla factory / restaurant is fighting to preserve heirloom varieties of corn and creates some truly amazing tortilla-based delights. A look at the women working the comals, pressing and grilling the masa into various colors of tortillas at the front of the restaurant and you’ll know you’re in for a treat.
Breakfast and lunch is served in a convivial atmosphere in the backyard.
Order from the simple menu which is split between small, corn-based snacks and larger meals and get a variety of bites to try. Deceptively simple-looking, the tortilla-based bites are bursting with the unique taste of the heirloom corn it came from. Triangular tetelas are oozing gooey queso fresco while a green wrap is filled with the herbaceous hoja santa leaves.
The Veracruzano breakfast consists of an omelet stuffed with refried beans and served with tomato sauce, crema, fried plantains and queso de Chiapas. Wash it all down with a comforting champurrado, a warm Mexican drink made from masa, sugar, water (or milk) and sometimes with cinnamon or vanilla added. One meal here is enough to make you savor and appreciate corn in a whole new way (and frown at any mass-produced brands!).
