A small town surrounded by gorgeous nature is what most visitors see as they hurriedly pass through Shkodër on their way to the mighty mountains in the north of Albania. Whether transiting from Tirana or from right across the border in Montenegro, few extend their stay in the getaway to the Albanian Alps. The lucky ones in the know add a few days to take in one of Albania’s most historical towns and recharge in its blissfully peaceful center. I fell somewhere in between – squeezing less than 48hrs which wasn’t enough to do it justice but just enough to name it my Albanian gem… Do better if you go! And catch a glimpse of the magic I was able to capture below.
Like in Tirana, Shkodër isn’t short on memorable cafes despite its small size. A lightly rainy afternoon was my perfect excuse to cozy up in the verdant EKO Club for a few hours.
Lush, warm, covered in books and vintage textiles, gathering locals with a community vibe and eco-conscious ethos… how can you not want to spend the day in here and dream up stories or next year’s plans? Like any true Albanians (I had been in the country for a few weeks at this point), I started with a strong coffee followed by a beer because that’s also a lovely feature of these wholesome cafes to evolve as the day goes by.
They also make sure your time in the restroom keeps you entertained or at least opened to new perspectives…
That welcoming feeling extends way beyond friendly cafes as Shkodër is noted for its religious diversity and tolerance too with mosques and cathedrals built side by side. Albania has the second largest Muslim population in Europe (60% of Albanians) after Kosovo and it’s impossible to miss Ebu Bekër Mosque at the nexus of the historical district’s main arteries.
Locals and the few tourists that linger here flock to the pedestrian Kole Idromeno Street – an Italian style promenade lined with restaurants, cafes, and a few small shops.
Adjoining paved streets have a distinct Mediterranean flair and are dreamily empty on a weekday afternoon.
You can’t help but slow down to admire the ornate pastel houses next to crumbling stone walls, unhurried with no cars passing by. The only movement coming from the locals merrily gliding by on bicycles, their preferred mode of transport in this flat town.
There are artful scenes around every corner and vestiges of the old town’s very distant past – Shkodër was founded in the 4th century B.C!
Laidback cafes like Goje Gaditese make ideal vantage point to enjoy the atmospheric old town and immerse yourself in the real Albania, a glass in hand.
Around the corner down a dead end alley stands the bright yellow building of Arti’Zanave.
The traditional Albanian restaurant is as warm as its façade and is the place to go for a taste of local cuisine in unpretentious surroundings.
Its popularity led to makeshift tables being laid out in the quiet alley in the true spirit of the place – you come here for the food.
First timers are recommended the plate of mixed traditional Albanian dishes to get a little taste of it all with a very generous pour of strong local red wine. This Mediterranean feast loaded with grilled vegetables, cheese, lamb and potatoes goes down like a dream and feels like you’ve just been invited to an Albanian’s Sunday dinner.
As the sun sets, the pedestrian promenade fills up quickly with locals looking to unwind with a glass of wine and a cig (Albanians are heavy smokers).
For a nice dinner option, I can’t recommend enough the Atelier Restaurant attached to the boutique hotel of the same name.
Set on the ground floor of an old family house from the late 18th century, the setting with the stone walls, wood beams, and open kitchen is as superb as the food.
Dishes were outstanding – probably my favorite meal in Albania – and beautifully showcased contemporary Albanian cuisine.
That’s all I could fit in my short stay and I wish I could have extended it to explore nearby lake Shkodra and the Rozafa Castle…so many gems around here! Now off to the mountains – stay tuned.
