Once you’ve gotten a feel for the city and its food, it’s time to head out in its lush surroundings and none are as easy to get to and popular than Monte. The Monte Palace Tropical Gardens is a half-day excursion that is not to be missed for nature enthusiasts when visiting Funchal. And getting to it (and back) is a treat. Take the cable car that leaves from Funchal’s Old Town and head up to the hilltop, getting off at Monte. One more stop drops you off at the Botanical Gardens right above if you want to make it a full day.
The entrance to the gardens is right across from the cable car station, you literally can’t miss it. It also hides pretty well the wonders that await behind the walls as you enter at the very top.
There’s a little cafe by the entrance where you can sit on a lovely terrace and have a coffee and a sweet before starting your exploration. The view from up here is a surprising, beautifully lush vision of towering trees, mini waterfalls, Asian walkways… what is this enchanting place exactly? What you’re looking at is essentially the gorgeous garden surrounding Monte Palace – once the area’s most fashionable hotel which you’ll get to see later on.
Before heading down though, it’s worth going in the Monte Palace Museum. The top two floors are mostly devoted to modern and contemporary art though during my visit it was filled with the ‘African Passion’ collection, hundreds of Zimbabwean sculptures from the middle of the 19th century,
The ground floor exhibits a unique collection of minerals, gems, and petrified wood from around the world.
You’ll get a map at the entrance but I feel these gardens were designed for aimless wonder and contemplation. With curved trails, hidden grottos and fountains, and art everywhere, you’re in for a delightful walk whichever path you choose.
Azulejos panels of course make an appearance and look especially stunning surrounded by all the greenery.
You’ll no doubt stumble upon the koi pond in the middle of the two oriental gardens. No matter how busy the gardens get, somehow this little corner manages to remain serene and true to its spirituality.
All paths eventually lead to the central lake, and your first view of the palace. What a gorgeous setting! The large pond fringed by exotic plants, a waterfall, carved grottos, and a chateau-like residence really transports you back to the regal days.
Wildlife both real (swans and peacocks of course) and fake in the form of sculptures adds a touch of whimsy to the delightful scene.
The paths leading up from the pond brings you to a cooler, shaded section filled with stone arches and sculptures from different periods.
When not looking at art, nature is the show with hundreds of species of native and exotic flora in a vibrant palette of colors, from trees and ferns to delicate flowers. Simply wander under the canopy and you could imagine being in a number of different countries at once.
As you get closer to the palace, you can’t miss the cycads from South Africa standing next to more Zimbabwean sculptures.
The entire property was once the 18th century private residence of the British Consul for Madeira who transformed the grounds into a leisure estate.
The palace itself was built during the 19th century as a palatial house modeled after the palaces on the banks of the River Rhine. In 1897 the house was turned into the Monte Palace Hotel where the elite would gather and enjoy the finest views over Funchal.
About 40 years ago (1987), a passionate art collector and philanthropist acquired the property (palace and gardens) and turned it into what you see today – a celebration of cultural and natural diversity.
Check out the back where beautiful alcoves showcase more items from the collections, from tiled artwork to fine china.
When you’re ready to head back down to Funchal, you have three options: the cable car, walking (a nice one-hour walk down), OR via Monte’s famous wicker toboggans. This peculiar mode of transport was used in the 19th century to carry freight down the very steep hill between Monte and Funchal. Today, it carries tourists down using the same system as before and you can see and hear it right from the western edge of the gardens.
Two carreiros give an initial push and then ride along until another push (or sudden brake with their rubber soles!) is needed for about 2 km which lasts roughly 10 minutes. It’s a unique tradition and a thrill you can only experience here.
