Madeira’s most famous hiking trail is reason alone to fly to the island (many outdoor fans come here expressly for this). With several of the highest peaks in Portugal concentrated on this little tropical paradise, it’s no surprise to find such a stunning hike here with the kind of views and terrain you’ll remember forever. Known officially as PR1 Vereda do Arieiro, and unofficially as Pico to Pico, the trail links the third and highest points on the island – Pico do Arieiro and Pico Ruivo – over 4.3 miles of breathtaking landscape.
Be prepared logistically and you’ll have a fantastic time! It’s recommended to do the trail one way, start as early as you can (weather gets worse as the day progresses), and get your transportation booked beforehand. Few people want to retrace their steps to do the loop and go back to their cars as it would be a lot of elevation gain and a tiring day! The ideal way to tackle Pico to Pico is to book a shuttle which will drop you at the start at the summit of Pico do Arieiro early morning to catch the sunrise and pick you up at the other end roughly 5-6 hours later. It should take about 3.5-4 hours to walk the trail but you’ll want some stops to take in the insane scenery along the way and grab a snack towards the end.
You won’t be alone at this ungodly early hour of the morning at the 3rd highest summit (5,900ft) on the island. Watching the sunrise from Pico do Arieiro with a 360-degree panorama over the ocean and the highlands is a spectacle that attracts crowds, not just hikers, since it’s reachable by car. Do a little morning meditation and get ready for an amazing hike.
The trail starts gently right by the summit’s parking lot, already treating you to superlative views.
It’s not long before you reach your first viewpoint, Ninho da Manta (Buzzard’s Nest).
The small balcony provides picturesque views over Madeira’s Central Mountain Range and its majestic rock formations just getting hit by the first light of day.
Climb steadily up and look back to see the viewpoint which appears so small against the rugged mountains.
From here starts the real fun as you begin to experience the trail’s many ups and downs and exposed ridges.
One of them is probably the most photographed part of the trail as you slowly make your way across a thin ridge with sheer drops on both sides. Not for people with vertigo though a thrilling section with unbeatable views down into the valley if you dare to look!
If you can take your eyes off the mountains and valleys for a minute, you might even be able to spot some wildlife. A beautiful red-legged partridge was pecking at the ground, totally unbothered by us.
You soon encounter your first of five tunnels which have you go through the mountains. You switch from side to side, from sun to shade, gaining a new perspective each time.
There are some very narrow sections where you’re nearly hugging the cliff on your side, excited to discover what lays around the next turn.
Another tunnel! They’re not long enough to justify bringing a headlamp though some hikers did carry one. I found the light from my phone to be plenty, and mostly just to avoid banging my head and walking in deep puddles.
More down and up on the other side.
Once you reach the staircase, it’s time for the toughest workout of the hike – a steep climb across Pico das Torres using near vertical stairs. You’ll want to stop for water and food a few times to replenish your energy, and it’s probably the place where you’ll see the most hikers apart from the summit as everyone will be breaking the climb in parts.
Once you’ve made it through though, it’s all pretty easy going from here. You emerge on the other side in a totally different, striking landscape dotted with burned, white trees. They are remnants of a large wildfire that swept through the area years ago.
You finally catch your first glimpse of the summit of Pico Ruivo, now within reach, and start the slow and gentle ascent.
There’s a tea house and restrooms right before the final leg if you need a break. Only 10 more minutes of trudging uphill!
You finally make it to the highest point in Madeira – Pico Ruivo (6,109ft) – congrats!
The reward is a 360 view across the whole island, well minus what’s hidden underneath the clouds with most of them below you right now.
You can see the tea house and the path you’re soon going to take since the summit is not the end of the hike if you’re doing it one way. You still need to reach the pick up point which is another hour’s walk away.
Enjoy the views from every side as you slowly make your way back down.
You’ve officially finished PR1 which concluded at the summit, and are now starting PR1.2 which will bring you to Acha dos Teixeira and the parking lot where the shuttles and taxis are picking hikers up.
It’s an easy, relatively flat walk with absolutely breathtaking views.
Take a look back to see the summit and appreciate the hard work you’ve just put in!
This section is so pleasant as you literally walk on top of the clouds for a while… I didn’t want it to end!
Eventually you’ll see the end and the large parking of Achada do Teixeira where your shuttle will be waiting to drive you back to Funchal.
You’ll likely arrive here well before pickup time so you can enjoy the nice facilities, grab a drink and a snack at the cafe, and marvel at the incredible scenery you just traversed. Easily one of the nicest hikes you’ve done so far. And it’s just the beginning of the afternoon so you still have plenty of day time to explore more, or take a well-deserved break!
