Even on an island the size of Madeira, there are certain areas that are less visited due to being just slightly harder to reach, like its northwest region. For sure it’s a bit more remote, but as is so often the case, you’re rewarded with some truly unique sights that are well worth the extra effort. For me, the northwest is a land of superlative greens and blue, magical trees, waterfalls, and lava rock pools you’re unlikely to see anywhere else. Another case for making sure you spend at least a week on this amazing island. 🙂
A visit to São Vicente is an introduction to the beauty of the northwest coast. To see it properly though, you need an extra day and to either have your own car to drive all the way west and across the central mountains, or join one of the “safari” tours and just enjoy the views. I took the tour which first brought us early morning up through the lush interior, off-roading on dirt tracks most of the way which we would have not attempted with the rental car!
Expect beautiful viewpoints with green mountains as far as the eye can see and a few grazing cows.
When you cannot go any higher, you’ve reached Paul da Serra, Madeira’s vast central plateau at 1,400m above sea level. This flat expanse of scrubland changes mood with the weather, going from cheery road trip to haunting desolation when heavy clouds cover the area.
Heading west, the plateau leads to the most magical place on the entire island – Fanal Forest.
What appears to be the perfect location for a Tim Burton movie is an ancient forest where the oldest Laurel trees on the island grow, some thought to be over 800 years old. Madeira has in fact the largest surviving area of primary laurisilva woods anywhere in the world and the trees you’re looking at are protected as a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
It’s best to visit the forest in the morning for a greater chance to witness the eerie spectacle of the fog rolling in…
In minutes it can turn from a bright blue sky to a moody, scary forest and wandering among the trees with the shifting fog is absolutely thrilling.
The shape of the trees adds to the wonder of the place. Sculpted by the effect of nature over hundreds of years, their twisted and bent trunks and branches give them a surreal look. If your imagination runs wild enough, you might start picturing them stretching in lifelike forms to snag your coat or move a few inches…figments from Lord of the Rings no doubt.
At times the fog gets so thick you can hardly see in front of you and have to get your bearings in this doomsday light.
As the fog lifts a bit, you start realizing how green the trees and ground are… all that vibrant moss adds to the enchanting atmosphere.
When it’s time to leave, make sure to spot and follow a few silhouettes as finding the way out can be tricky…
Then it’s all the way down to sea level and the impressive volcanic pools of Porto Moniz.
You’re as far north and west as you can go on Madeira in a remote seafront village that has been whipped by the ocean for an eternity.
The natural swimming pools are one of the most-popular swimming spots on the island and are quite a phenomenal sight even if you don’t venture in for a dip.
Walking along the shoreline will leave you in awe. An endless string of black volcanic rock formations shaped over centuries by the force of the ocean waves constantly crashing ashore, creating the most stunning cerulean pools you’ve ever seen.
The lava has naturally formed some calmer lagoons where one can relax and swim in the crystal clear seawater.
The rest of the coast heading back east is dotted with more natural rock pools and wild swimming spots.
You might even have them all to yourself if the weather is not cooperating. Here’s the one in Seixal, perhaps my favorite one even on a gloomy day.
Make sure to stop even just briefly at the beach in Seixal. The black sand beach set against the steep green mountains behind is quite a unique and beautiful view.
The last stop is usually at the famous Veu da Noiva waterfall, another remote gem from mother nature. Water coming all the way down the mountain straight into the ocean resembles a bride’s veil…hence the name.
And that concludes the tour of Madeira! Mind you, I took it slow (over 5 weeks!) while working remotely in the middle of winter. While it often wasn’t warm enough for water activities, the little bouts of rain never impacted all the hikes and exploration and just made the green landscapes pop out even more. Madeira is a yearlong destination that should move up your list if you’re in search of varied and stunning outdoor pursuits in close proximity and away from the crowds…
