Think Martha’s Vineyard and you’re probably picturing celebrity summer mansions, beach days with lobster rolls picnic, and sipping wine in elegant Edgartown. This version does exist during the height of the summer, but let me show you the real beauty of the island and all the pros of going in the shoulder season (i.e., avoiding entirely mid-June to Labor Day). In this post and the following, you’ll see what it’s like to have the island “almost” all to yourself and how you can easily fill one incredible week with stunning walks, deserted beaches, and arts for one of the best R&R in this part of New England. The first week of May turned out to be ideal and this is where it starts…
Vineyard Haven
Getting to Martha’s Vineyard involves a passenger and car ferry that leaves from Woods Hole and must be reserved in advance (months in advance for the busy summer season). The trip takes about 45 minutes and drops you either at Vineyard Haven (main terminal) or Oak Bluffs.
Vineyard Haven is the commercial center of the island where “real people” live and work and has attracted literary types for decades. Take a walk around Main Street and Spring Street to see some of the island’s oldest buildings that have survived the devastating Great Fire of 1883, like the Old Schoolhouse and Town Hall.
The Martha’s Vineyard Museum gives a great introduction to the island through multiple exhibits and buildings, from its history including ethnic groups and natural resources to the whaling industry and the filming of the movie Jaws.
Don’t miss the carriage shed that houses boats, vehicles, vintage ads and paintings.
Oak Bluffs
It’s only 3 miles from Vineyard Haven to Oak Bluffs where you’ll find plenty of casual eateries along its compact downtown for your midday break. Aalia’s Coffee was a highlight with expertly crafted espresso drinks and a tempting brunch menu with a Lebanese touch.
Known as a charming and high-spirited town, Oak Bluffs is also famous for its houses, from the grand dames lining Ocean Park and the seafront avenue…
…to the colorful gingerbread houses clustered together in The Martha’s Vineyard Camp Meeting Association.
This whimsical village originated in the 1800s as the site of the Methodist congregation’s annual summer camp meetings. At the time, they slept in tents, but as the meetings became more frequent they started building permanent cottages to be able to host them year-round.
Today, 300 “gingerbread houses” remain from the original cluster of 500, and are now exclusive summer cottages. You’re free to wander around and admire the storybook design which is actually an architectural style called Carpenter’s Gothic that was popular at the time.
All individually decorated and brightly colored, they share fanciful trims and cutouts. Think candy-like pillars, spires, and turrets that create a fantasyland that is a far cry from the most traditional architecture seen in the rest of the island.
The octagonal Union Chapel (1870) right outside the camp also seems to fit right in minus the pastels.
You have the beach right there to end your first short day on a relaxing note. There are a few hotels here with great views over the harbor and their proximity to the ferry makes them an attractive option for a short stay. Tomorrow, we continue to Edgartown and its neighboring island…
