Chappaquiddick (known by locals as “Chappy”), is an island just off the eastern tip of Martha’s Vineyard and one of the most tranquil and natural places around. A very quick ferry (2 min!) connects Edgartown to Chappy continuously throughout the day, bringing nature lovers and full-time residents to quiet beaches and wildlife refuges. It’s ideal for a morning of walking and relaxation, especially off-season when the weather is cool and the biting insects gone.
Start in the southeast corner of the island with an easy walk into a 155-acre reservation perched on the shore of Poucha Pond. The 2 miles out-and-back trail meander gently through a forest and an extensive salt marsh with fine views of the pond.
Combine it with the adjacent Wasque Reservation where an extra two miles of trail brings ocean views and more varied flora.
The sandy strand is perfect for a picnic or sunbathing, but swimming is prohibited here due to the strong currents caused by the meeting of the Atlantic Ocean and the Muskeget Channel.
Next, wander through a corridor of salt-blasted trees and shrubs with strong ocean winds cooling you off.
A mowed-grass path have you skirt Poucha pond for a bit before returning to where you started.
More quiet moments in nature await at the nearby Mytoi Japanese Garden. Stroll slowly through this 14-acre serene escape filled with native and exotic plants, winding paths, wooden bridges, and plenty of benches to sit and reflect.
Right next to the gardens you’ll arrive at the unfortunate source of fame for the beautiful island – Dike Bridge. This bridge was the scene of the drowning incident involving Sen. Edward Kennedy in July 1969 (detailed in the movie) which resulted in the death of his 28-year-old passenger and ultimately changed the course of presidential history.
You can drive over the bridge only when endangered shorebirds aren’t nesting. It’s just a short walk to reach Cape Pogue, a thin ribbon of sand that stretches along the east side of Chappaquiddick.
The long and beautiful East Beach is as wild as can be surrounded only by sand dunes, salt marshes and tidal flats. Take one last walk before heading back to the “main island”.
Edgartown
Back in Edgartown, you’re ready to indulge in a bit of chic city outing after this morning’s nature break. You’ll find plenty of shops, galleries, and restaurants (usually bursting at the seams in the summer but wonderfully chill on this quiet weekday in May).
Grab a seat at 19 Prime Cast Iron Steakhouse which also serves delicious and fresh seafood including local oysters straight from Martha’s Vineyard which you can have raw…
…and fried and stuffed inside a delicious roll. All the morning’s walking made it taste even better!
The area around downtown and especially along North and South Water Streets is full of those grand, white Colonial, Federal, and Greek Revival ship captains’ houses with widow’s walks and impeccable exterior. More elegant than the houses in Oak Bluffs though far less colorful, many have played backdrop to clothing companies’ summer catalog shoots over the years.
Take a peek inside The Carnegie Heritage Center for a bit of history, art, and full size landmarks from around the island.
At the end of North Water Street you’ll see the lighthouse directing boats around Edgartown harbor. It’s a short and pleasant walk to reach it across a narrow spit of sand.
You get a great perspective of the beach on Chappaquiddick island from here.
When you’ve had enough of the “city”, there are great green spaces a few minutes outside of Edgartown perfect for a post-lunch walk. The Caroline Tuthill Preserve is the first one you’ll come across and although wedged between a busy “highway” and housing developments, it’s incredibly peaceful and sheltered from all the busy activities. You can get a view of Sengekontacket Pond and the salt marsh that borders it and of a bench there to remind you of the most important things…
Just a bit further north between Edgartown and Oak Bluffs, the Felix Neck Wildlife Sanctuary has miles of trails and plenty of birds to keep you entertained (spring goslings are one more reason to come here pre-summer rush!).
Pick up a brochure at the visitor center to find your way around the 4 miles of easy trails and the variety of different habitats from forests and wildflower meadows to beaches and freshwater ponds.
Keep your eyes open as you cross Turtle Pond, birds aren’t the only residents!
Soon you reach the shore of Sengekontacket Pond after a lovely woodland walk. Just another place to sit for a bit and listen to the water gently lapping the shore with no one else around. What better way to end this beautiful outdoorsy day.
