Another bright sunny day begins in Seoul and with it a plethora of old and new to discover. For us foodie travelers though there’s only one question: what’s for breakfast? Between the giant palace compounds and vast neighborhoods, you will have walked your 10,000 steps before lunchtime so filling up first thing is crucial. Problem is, Koreans don’t have a culture of eating breakfast outside of their homes! Most restaurants open at 11am so what’s a starving tourist up early supposed to do?
Unless you’re staying near one of the few brunch places in the city (or worst – Starbucks), your only option is often a hip bakery serving nothing but breads or pastries (very delicious though!) starting from 9am or 10am so… bring protein snacks! One such bakeries, Soha Salt Pond, specializes in salted breads which are similar to milk buns but with salt in them and in various flavors.
You’ll recognize the hip bakery by the Instagrammable display taking up precious seating (!) and usually interminable lines out the door, except this time I had shown up 15 min before they open… I had been awake since 3am due to jet lag.
There were only two flavors out of the oven then so I tried both the plain salt and the truffle salt breads. They were nice, warm and fluffy, and I did like their saltiness, but I wouldn’t go out of my way to eat them. I just needed a bit of carbs to get me going! My advice would be to visit later in the day for a midafternoon snack and try their sweet offerings too.
Bukchon Hanok Village
Our destination for today is a short walk away, smack in the middle of old Seoul – Bukchon Hanok Village. This incredibly scenic neighborhood is on every tourist’s must do list and easy to access as it sits nicely between the two main palaces of Gyeonbokgung and Changdeokgung. Bukchon (North Village) is a traditional village consisting of around 900 hanok houses and is where the ruling class lived during the Joseon Dynasty. Start with a visit to the Baek In-je’s House, a house museum (free entry) that will give you a behind-the-scene look at the hanok style.
The house was built in 1913 during the Japanese colonial period and is a beautifully preserved example of a traditional hanok with modern features. It is named after the former owner, Dr. Baek In-je, a surgeon who resided here from 1944.
The beautiful courtyard, large garden , and abundant windows bring a feeling of seclusion in the middle of the city.
Take your time to soak up the unique atmosphere and admire the distinctive architecture.
You’re free to wander around the property and take a peak inside the buildings from the outside, noticing the Japanese influences in the tatami rooms and hallway.
Now it’s time to step into the village proper and get lost in its maze of twisting streets.
The uphill walk is best done super slowly and quietly to take in the unique homes built of stones, wood, soil and rice paper, their iconic slopping tiled roofs and the occasional patterned wall. Despite being filled with tourists, this is still a residential neighborhood and visitors are asked to keep noise to a minimum.
A handful of homes are open to the public, some as cute tea houses, others hosting workshops to learn traditional crafts, all incredibly picturesque.
You might struggle to find an empty street but still nothing will distract you from the views of the modern city in the distance.
Find a quiet spot for a refreshment amid the many hidden courtyards and gardens or visit a nearby coffee shop at the edge of the village.
Seasonal treats are always a good idea and fall is chestnut time in South Korea. I deserved a cake after all that uphill walking!
Lunch time around Bukchon
For something more substantial, the area is filled with good restaurants, it just depends on how hungry you are and if you’re willing to queue…
Walk down Yulgok-ro 3-gil street to find tons of small Korean eateries amongst the many gift shops.
A classic gimbap always hit the spot.
Round out your meal at the nearby Hansik Space, a very cool, multidisciplinary venue to promote authentic Korean food and its culture. There’s an educational showroom/gallery, a cafe where you can sample traditional teas and sweets not found everywhere, a shop where you can buy authentic local products from traditional farms and producers…
…and there’s also the Sool Gallery focused on Korean traditional liquors.
You can even book a tasting which I highly recommend you do. You’ll get to try five liquors ranging from the traditional makgeolli to fruit-based dessert wines, just enough to give you an extra boost to finish the day.
Quirky art
With your newfound buzz, head to the Arario Museum in SPACE a few blocks away for a sensorial and fun experience. The contemporary art museum is one of the most peculiar I’ve seen, blending art, architecture, and history into a mysterious collage. The building itself, an architecture firm’s office from the 1970s, shapes a big part of the impression with its ivy-covered courtyard and angular staircases.
Exhibits run from large scale modern sculptures to slightly disturbing pieces (candy made of body parts or severed head made by the sculptor’s own blood).
The exhibitions aren’t the only draw here. Step outside to find a hanok in the courtyard serving coffee and cakes and a pagoda rumored to date back to before the Joseon Dynasty (before 1392).
Evening
Down an alley you’ll find my favorite cocktail bar in Seoul – Gong-gan. Set in a stunning traditional hanok with a modern, minimalist decor, this is where you want to relax after a long day and savor some exquisite cocktails and food. The service is impeccable – you get a hand towel to freshen up and rice crackers upon sitting down – and each refined cocktail comes paired with a small bite.
If you prefer to go low on alcohol, you could head to Slown for a glass of kombucha or tea pet-nat.
After wetting my appetite, my stomach led me straight to a hip katsu restaurant, illwall katsu. It’s not Korean but crispy Japanese pork cutlets are always a good option in my book and this one was as close to being in Japan as I’ve ever tasted!
Next > time to hit the other palace!
