Madeira’s most enchanting village (at least according to me) is São Vicente on the north coast. Come here for a half day of true R&R in this quiet enclave guarded by lush mountains on three sides and the Atlantic ocean. The way here is also wonderfully scenic especially if coming from Ponta do Sol and driving through the middle of the island. You’ll be passing through a dense laurel grove known as Chão dos Louros followed by an exhilarating descent with a series of hair-pin bends before emerging in the valley with São Vicente down at the bottom.
The center’s dominating feature, São Vicente Parish Church and its beautiful clock tower, was built in the late 17th century and overlooks the main square, shaded by palm trees.
You might want to just sit at one of the cafe tables in the square and soak up the relaxed atmosphere and charming layout of this traditional settlement. Little cobblestone streets branch out from the square, climbing gently up the mountains slopes with a few shops and views down over the tiled roofs.
Nowhere else felt as well preserved on the island as this century-old pedestrian center, with a few remaining elegant houses near the church from when this area was a focus for wine-making.
All around, the world’s largest remaining expanse of primeval laurel forest covers the mountainsides for over 15,000 hectares. The forest dates back to the dinosaurs and contains unique plants and animals, including many endemic species. There are some great hikes nearby to take in all this splendid nature if you want to make a full day out of it, some with exquisite ocean views.
The higher streets of the village give beautiful vantage points over the compact “downtown”, especially the bird’s eye view of the church and its cemetery.
I had never seen a layout like this, with the tombstones entirely covered with ornemental greenery while the alleys lay bare… beautiful.
From here you can also see the mountains opening to the Atlantic ocean and the coastal road.
Stroll along the riverside park that leads right to the ocean and take a nice wooden bridge to reach the mountainside.
A short trail with a tunnel brings you right to the waterfront.
São Vicente Beach is known as one of the most attractive spots on the north coast for surfers with consistent waves and a wide, uncrowded beach.
Right across the beach, drop by Porto de Abrigo for a taste of local Madeira wine or poncha in a historical setting.
The century-old stone building used to be a wine storing facility for boat shipments before being turned into a wine cellar
For a more substantial meal, I can highly recommend just off the seafront the cozy Restaurante Lilinha.
It’s the kind of no-fuss, family-style restaurant I love, with a tiny menu where the food does all the talking.
Make it a must to try their bacalhau verde, a comforting dish of baked cod with spinach, leeks and cream.
Their grilled tuna belly, often on their lunch specials menu, is also divine.
As you can see, portions are big so it’s the best excuse to go take a walk along the long seafront promenade (about 3km) before the mountainous drive back. The views, the crisp ocean air, and the prettiest village setting will do wonder for your soul in the middle of your Madeira tour.
