Medellín is divided into 16 districts though most visitors will likely only step foot into a handful or less. If you’re only in the city for a few days, it’s hard to beat El Poblado and its tourist friendly amenities. If you’re around for a bit longer though and want to get a more local and relax feel, you should consider Laureles-Estadio which is where I stayed for a month. Read on for a quick intro to both to help you make up your mind…
El Poblado
You came to Medellín for a bit of fun and this is where you’re going to find it – within the very walkable and upscale neighborhood of El Poblado. From the moment you step out of the nearest metro or get out of your taxi you’ll feel how different it is from other areas of the city. Beautiful murals everywhere, so many hotels, hostels, restaurants and bars, and sidewalks filled with happy tourists just having a good time…
It’s almost built like a cool village made expressly for the convenience of travelers where you’ll feel safe, entertained, and well nourished at all times. Cafes and bars are all-day affairs, spilling into the pedestrian streets to maximize people-watching and the benefits from all the added greenery.
Slowly wandering the streets looking up at large-scale murals is a main attraction as this is where you’ll find the highest concentration of street art outside of Comuna 13. There are also contemporary art galleries to check out and design shops round up the high end artist feel of the neighborhood.
It may feel like chill brunch vibes during the day but come evening, the entire area turns into party central with filled-to-the-brim bar terraces and music spilling out from every venue, including live bands in the park. Nice for a few days of vacation and letting loose, less when you want a few quiet nights in (hence – Laureles for me!).
Another big draw of El Poblado is the restaurant scene. Even if you don’t stay in the neighborhood you’ll be coming here to try out some of the eateries, among the best in the city. They cater to all taste and visitors will find the bulk of the vegetarian/vegan restaurants around here too. Of course, prices are higher than anywhere else so your day will cost significantly more than sticking to local joints in other areas but for a few days it’s still good value.
You can get a taste of local cuisine at Restaurante Auténtico with a homestyle meal of smoked and shredded beef, bean salad,
white rice, broccoli with yogurt and lettuce.
Go vegan with boho vibes at the very pretty Restaurante Kaime where delicious bowls and veggie burgers must end with one of their insanely good looking pastries.
For a fun and special meal, Restaurante Idílico is a real treat. They’re champions of the region’s small producers and turn up creative dishes that are as pleasing to eat as they are to look at. With dishes like tentáculos de mazorca (corn ribs) with smoked pepper sauce and an arepa set against the skyline of Medellín, you’ll feast in comfort and style.
Museo de Arte Moderno
Take a break from eating and dancing with a visit to the Modern Art Museum, a 20-minute walk away.
Also called “El MAMM”, it is set around a refurbished industrial building and showcases changing exhibitions of contemporary art. While I preferred the Museo de Antioquia, this one is still worth a visit even if just for the striking building alone and to get a peak at a few intriguing pieces of art, many of which are drawn from the country’s turbulent history.
The view from the rooftop terrace is also not to be missed.
The industrial area around lights up at night with gallery showings mixing great cocktails with inventive art.
Cerro de Nutibara
Another 20-minute walk north and across the river will bring you to Cerro de Nutibara – a 80m-tall hill with a few walking trails and sculptures locals love to hang out at.
The summit has a miniature version of a typical Antioquian village with a few tacky souvenir shops and snack bars called Pueblito Paisa.
Get a few quick pictures and head straight to the real star of the hill…
… the panoramic platform that gives you some splendid views across the city.
Parques del Rio
Walk back down the hill and a few blocks north to Parques del Rio, a modern park that straddles the river and make for a really nice stroll. It’s full of paths, green areas with loungers, sport facilities, gardens, and food concessions/restaurants to make a half-day out of it.
Pedestrian bridges cross the river, letting you hop from one side to the other easily and get a beautiful perspective on downtown Medellín.
It connects to the Metropolitan Theater and Plaza Mayor where major events are held.
You’ll see people skating, biking, running, dancing, and doing yoga all over the pretty esplanades and readers escaping to shaded corners with a coffee and a good book.
Leave room for hot churros if you see them – the perfect sweet snack to enjoy by the river with a surprise caramel drizzle that was to die for.
Laureles
The Parques del Rio connects you to the Laureles neighborhood, the other option when visiting Medellín and my “home” for a month. You immediately notice the difference with El Poblado – significantly less tourists and a real local neighborhood feel.
It’s full of quiet, tree-lined streets that criss-cross a mostly residential area dotted with cute coffee shops and family restaurants. Very walkable and safe, Laureles feels refreshingly low-key after the bustling El Poblado while still having a decent amount of interesting places to hang out at.
If you must get your dancing shoes on, it even has its own “party boulevard” in La 70 – a street lined with bars and clubs opened late into the night.
Mostly, it’s ideal if you’re here for a little while and want to soak in the local way of life, grocery shop at the little markets, and eat your meals surrounded by people from the neighborhood speaking Spanish… You’ll have many more authentic experiences here including more typical food.
The highlight of my culinary exploration in Laureles has to be breakfast at Famosa Arepa de Chocolo. Ask any Colombians and they’ll all get emotional thinking about their mom’s version of this sweet corn cake topped with queso blanco. While I didn’t get to try a “homemade” version, the arepa I ate there was perfection…and I became a regular. With a side of salty scrambled eggs and a strong cup of coffee, I dare you to show me a better breakfast in Medellín.
Besides arepas and local cheese breads, mornings tend to be pastry heavy which I wouldn’t complain about, whether you try a flaky pinwheel at La Miguería or go to the Argentinian Los Porteños for one of their famous croissant sandwich.
You might occasionally want a reset for lunch in which case there are plenty of health-focused eateries here too. Don’t miss Saludpan, a mostly vegetarian restaurant attached to a natural food store so you can grab some organic veggies and granolas on your way home.
The coffee shop award goes to Pergamino, a celebrated (and often packed) local family chain that sources top-quality beans from small farms across the country. Their Laureles location is idyllic with a leafy courtyard, tempting brunch menu, and the best brewed coffee around.
Set lunch menus are available at many small and very charming “almuerzo” places, such as Amá Cocina Casera, where you can get a delicious 3-course home-cooked meal for $6-$8.
Fresh juices, cheesy baked goods, and salads make for another light and refreshing lunch at one of the many cafes lining the quieter streets.
On the opposite end, the very big and very popular Mondongo’s (they also have a location in El Poblado) serves traditional Colombian dishes to huge crowds of locals and visitors alike. Fill yourself up for the entire day with a Bandeja Paisa which includes beans, rice, chicharrón, ground meat, an egg, steamed potato, fried plantain, avocado, banana, lemon, cilantro, hot pepper, sweet pepper and arepas.
Break up the afternoon with more coffee – there are so many great specialty shops around.
Save room for one of the most delicious millefeuilles at Mil Capas. The classic is covered in a thick layer of dulce de leche…
Cake shops and bakeries abound in the neighborhood, all with sidewalk and shaded tables, so you can make your rounds and get your sweet fix mornings and afternoons.
For a truly local experience, nothing beats heading to the farmers market and in Laureles it is the Plaza de Mercado La América. You’ll find all the local produce, meats, flowers, household items, and artisanal goods in a bustling marketplace.
There are also plenty of food vendors serving traditional Colombian snacks and meals, a great excuse to sit down and take in all the action around you and observe the community.
Dinner time brings an international vibe and options that are very close to what you find in El Poblado, just with fewer crowds. Find modern Colombian flavors at the vegetarian and vegan INA Restaurante.
The area around the Segundo Parque de Laureles gets especially lively in the evening with international cuisines filling in for every cravings like pizza, Indian, tacos, and sushi.
Wherever you pick as your base between El Poblado and Laureles, you’re guaranteed easy access to great food, culture, and a safe neighborhood to walk around – your choice!
