Mexico and neighboring Guatemala are not short on Mayan ruins, and while I can’t claim to have visited them all, I can say as of now that Palenque sits at the top of my list and is absolutely worth the effort to get to. Hidden deep within the jungle of Chiapas, this renowned UNESCO World Heritage site is a long drive from any major cities but will reward you with one of the most outstanding Classic period sites of the Maya civilization.
Those with a bit more time will want to stay 2 or 3 days in the nearby town of Palenque to soak up the natural environment and get to the ruins first thing in the morning. The majority though will appreciate the day trip option from San Cristóbal de las Casas, a long one for sure, but one which is packed with wonderment as it combines a visit to the ruins with two more spectacular waterfalls. Here’s the day tour itinerary with a 4am departure from San Cris…
Agua Azul
I’m still not over how many breathtaking turquoise waterfalls there are in Chiapas and was delighted that our first stop of the day after a long and very early morning commute was at the famous Agua Azul.
The name “Blue Water” is immediately obvious as you approach the downstream pools and their surreal hue.
A large walking path slowly leads you up along the river to the series of torrential cascades.
Their color and undulating shape come from the limestone-rich deposit, with smaller falls joining together as you go higher up.
The views from the upper reaches are majestic, and you’ll find large pools safe for swimming here with enough time left for a quick dip before continuing your journey.
Misol-Ha
One more albeit shorter stop on the way to Palenque (it is a 6-hour drive btw so you’ll appreciate any chance to stretch your legs!) is to another waterfall called Misol-Ha. This stunning single-drop waterfall falls nearly 120 feet into a deep and refreshing pool below.
A small walkway takes you behind the water curtain and there are some caves you can also briefly visit at the end.
The lush setting with tropical vegetation is worthy of a movie set, and it once was as this site was featured in the 1987 Predator movie…
Palenque
You finally arrive in early afternoon to Palenque and feel like you’ve stepped into another realm. The extreme heat and humidity of the jungle paired with the rolling grunts of howler monkeys and piercing bird cries lend a mystical atmosphere well suited to this magical place. It’s a site best explored solo at a gentle pace, where you can learn about its fascinating history, take frequent breaks in the shade of giant trees and enjoy the feeling of serenity.
The ancient city was an important seat of power during the Classic Maya period and reached its peak between 500 and 700AD before being abandoned in 900AD. Older than Tikal in Guatemala, it is an outstanding archeological site of which barely 10% has been uncovered to this day.
It’s also one of the few archaeological sites in Mexico where you can still climb the pyramids and enter the buildings, immersing yourself further into the genius of this civilization.
Palenque is world-renowned for its distinctive and artistic architecture which sets it apart from other Maya sites.
There’s an elegance to the structures not seen elsewhere which proves just how creative they were, especially knowing this was all built without the benefit of metal tools, the horse or the wheel…
That’s why taking its time is worth it here, so you can admire the craftsmanship of this ancient civilization. On top of marveling at the size and construction of their ceremonial and civic buildings, you’ll find intricate decorations throughout like sculpted reliefs representing Mayan mythological themes.
What makes Palenque truly special besides its impressive size and build is how integrated it is into the landscape. It not only creates an unbelievably beautiful city, but the landscape is the reason we’re able to appreciate it today in such a well preserved form. Once abandoned, the thick surrounding jungle quickly took over and covered the temples and palaces, essentially protecting them from looters and the elements for centuries.
Save your energy for walking up the stairs of the Templo de La Cruz, one of the highest in Palenque.
At the top you’ll get to see an engraved shrine with one side representing God smoking tobacco and the other a richly attired Lord Serpent Jaguar (a drawing on the information panel helps with picturing what is what).
You also get a splendid view over the Palace and surrounding area, trying to imagine what it would have looked like back in the day with over 500 buildings since it’s already pretty impressive!
There are many other sections you can walk around and take a rest under the shades of the trees, such as by the old ball court where they used to play the ancient game of Pelota.
After a few hours on the site, it’ll be time to grab a filling lunch at one of the nearby cafeteria and start the very long drive back to San Cristóbal, in awe of the treasures you’ve uncovered in Chiapas’ spectacular jungle.
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