One is spoilt for choice when picking a South African safari and the sheer number of lodges available (in the 100s!) can seem overwhelming. That’s why it’s wise to do a bit of research on the diverse reserves and parks and base your decision on what you’d most like to see, the type of safari-goer you are, and obviously your budget.

If it’s your first safari and the thrill of the Big Five is sending shivers down your spine, I would wholeheartedly recommend you look into the Sabi Sands Game Reserve bordering Kruger National Park – widely known as THE most prestigious game reserve in South Africa.

What really makes it so amazing are the game viewing possibilities which are simply unparalleled in these parts. As a private game reserve, Sabi Sands is essentially a large protected wildlife management area with unfenced borders with Kruger, meaning the animals can roam freely between the two in this giant ecosystem. 

The area around it used to be filled with cattle farms which left a great number of water holes in the reserve. Since wildlife tends to naturally congregate around them, the reserve has one of the richest game populations in the country, and is famous for incredible leopard sightings (the most elusive and beautiful of the big cats). So if you’re looking to tick off your Big Five in just a few days, Sabi Sands is one of the best places to do it at!

Unsurprisingly, Sabi Sands plays host to some of the world’s most luxurious small hotels with styles to suit every taste from the classic camp and family-friendly earth lodge to ultra-luxurious private hideaways.  I opted for a ‘step back in time’ safari to live the fantasy of a bygone era in very plush surroundings… I immediately fell for the peaceful and private setting of my elegant tented suite at Savanna Lodge,  which can be found on a private concession in the western section of Sabi Sands.

The private patio facing a grassy plain already gave me prime view of an elephant within 5 minutes of checking in – can you think of a better reception?

Inside is the definition of glamping with draped ceilings giving the modern and luxury bedroom a romantic and colonial flair. 

The large bathroom has all the amenities you can think of, and that freestanding deep-soaking tub gets filled up by the staff every night to warm you up after your safari. I would come back from the long and sometimes wet game drive to find my bathroom dimly lit, bubbles popping in the hot bath, and a glass of sherry waiting on the counter…the dream!

There’s also an outdoor shower at the back if you like your morning routine in the wild which I highly recommend.

The highlight of a stay at Savanna Lodge though are the game drives and the amazing close-knit team that will go the extra mile to give you your best safari experience ever. They’re known to have some of the best experienced rangers and trackers around and I can attest to that as I had the best game drives ever while staying there. 

Since day visitors aren’t allowed in the Sabi Sands as they are in Kruger, you really get the place all to yourself (and the other lodges guests obviously) for a totally exclusive safari experience. Get ready for the ultimate photographic safari and checking a lot of wildlife off your wanted list!

Leopard feasting on a fresh antelope kill up a tree – an extremely rare sighting!

It’s usual to split your week between 2 or 3 lodges to make the most of your time at Sabi Sands and I’d suggest a visit to Kirkman’s Camp, another gorgeous lodge from the luxury brand &Beyond which organized my amazing safari in Botswana. The historic camp, which was originally built in the early 1920s, has a nostalgic safari atmosphere and a fantastic setting overlooking the Sand River.

When not on a game drive, this place is calling you to curl up in front of the roaring fire in the sitting room and relax with a book. This is luxury safari with an old world charm…and I like it! 

A huge lawn and a superb pool afford splendid views of the many river crossings happening right below.

Every meal I ever had at an &Beyond property was absolutely stunning and the food at Kirkman’s Camp will certainly put the cherry on top of your extraordinary safari in Sabi Sands.

Sprinbok loins with mango salsa…incredible.

South Africa sits pretty high on many people’s bucket list trips, myself included, and flying all the way to the tip of Africa would be incomplete without going on a safari. The region abounds with parks and reserves, all with their distinct benefits, though first-timers often opt for the largest of them all – Kruger National Park.

With diverse and spectacular scenery, as well as abundant wildlife to match, Kruger won’t disappoint but your visit will depend on how you choose to experience it…and how much you’re willing to pay. As the top National Park for self-drive safaris, you’ll find good roads and plenty of camps with modern facilities, so you can craft your own tour for a moderate fee.

With some luck you’ll get to see the Big Five from the road and witness some spectacular scenes such as this elephant crossing (yes, keep watching, it goes on forever!).

This rhino was just a few feet away – I couldn’t believe my luck!

And on the small spectrum, don’t forget the amazing birds of South Africa, often perched also right by the road like this Blue European Roller.

BUT if you can afford it or are celebrating something special (i.e. honeymoon), skip the self-drive which limits you to what you can see from the main road.  Book yourself into a top safari lodge with expert rangers, trackers and off-road vehicles that will bring you into the bush. A luxury safari is a once in a lifetime experience you’ll never forget and some of the best lodges are to be found in and around Kruger, such as Singita Lebombo.

One of the ultimate brand name in luxury safari lodges, Singita offers the kind of extravagance you’d expect to find only in the world’s glitziest cities, except that you’re in the middle of nowhere in Africa. Its Lebombo lodge is the best place I’ve ever stayed in with its combination of ultra-lux design and the stunning wilds of Kruger surrounding it. Clinging to a cliff within 33,000 acres of private concession, the striking lodge of steel, timber and glass wouldn’t be totally out of place in Bali.

15 breathtaking suites are connected by snaking wooden platforms, blending in splendidly.

Your jaw will likely drop as you enter your temporary abobe, much larger than my last Brooklyn apartment… The loft-style, glass-walled rooms have unending views over the Lebombo hills and N’wanetsi River, giving you front row seat to Kruger’s magnificent wildlife. The bed on the wide balcony is the ultimate spot for a night under the stars, and high enough to  be out of the reach from the big cats…you’ll only hear their roar to lull you to sleep.

A living room with slouchy sofas, a glass-walled bathroom which can open for sun-drenched showers, an egg-shaped bath and a host of non-essential niceties (Nespresso machine, Wi-Fi, solar-powered plugs, generous minibar, etc.) complete the sumptuous package (which comes at an average price of $2,000/night). No wonder Justin Timberlake and Jessica Biel chose to honeymoon here!

If you can ever peel yourself away from your room, there are quite a staggering number of things to do here, unlike at most safari lodges. From a private wine tasting room, library, spa, technogym, two lap-pools with loungers, a long bar and glass-walled dining room, there’s enough to keep you busy or relaxed between game drives…and make you want to move here permanently!

There’s even a dangerously curated boutique if you want to bring that sophisticated South African aesthetic home. 

Unsurprisingly, the food is sublime with acclaimed Cape Town chef Liam Tomlin at the helm of the kitchen. The tapas-style lunch is legendary, showcasing the contemporary cuisine he is known for and served with copious amounts of wine (Singita also has the best wine cellar of any safari lodge).

Even the afternoon tea is served with delectable, sophisticated morsels if you have any room left!

The true reason you’re here though is to get out and explore Singita Lebombo’s incredible 33,000 acre private concession neighbouring Mozambique, one of the few remaining unexplored territories of Kruger. That’s where you really see the difference between your self-drive safari and doing it the luxury way. With no other tourists around, your private game drives give you an intimacy of wildlife viewing unparalleled elsewhere in Africa. 

A rare sighting of the endangered black rhino is an amazing experience and having your own guide and tracker means you can stay and enjoy its powerful presence for as long as you wish….

While smaller creatures might not be at the top of your list, they’re an integral and beautiful part of the safari experience.

Colorful bee-eaters

Wahlberg’s eagle

Dung beetles

All that is left of a Cape Buffalo…

Another benefit of having an expert guide and tracker is the incredible knowledge on the local flora and fauna they possess. On every drive you’ll learn something new and fascinating about animal behaviors such as the reason behind the presence of secretions occasionally seen on the side of elephants’ heads (stress, mostly in times of musth).

Zebras are a photographer’s darlings, always in groups, and always so strikingly beautiful.

The saddle-billed stork also has quite a splendid plumage which makes this large bird easy to spot.

A female waterbuck with her grayish-brown and shaggy coat.

The most distinctive feature of waterbuck is their trademark white ring around the tail which they use as a ‘follow me’ sign. Males, such as this one, also sports some impressive horns. 

A terrapin lounging on the river.

You’ll frankly never get tired of the game drives as each will bring the excitement of the unexpected and not a day will go by without some thrilling encounter. It is however totally worth sacrificing just one of them to visit one of Singita’s community projects.

Although not much to look at from the outside, the Singita School of Cooking in the heart of the staff village is a unique development programme that provides youth from the local community with the skills required for a successful career as a chef.

You’ll hear the clattering of pots and pans as you approach the building. Meet the eight to ten promising students selected to participate in this one-year programme where they get to learn cooking theory and practical training.

The idea behind this programme was two-fold: to increase the skill levels in their kitchens but also provide opportunities for the surrounding communities. 

Some graduates are offered places in Singita’s kitchens; others are snapped up by other lodges in the region as the programme’s expertise is now widely recognized.

It will definitely sweeten your already glorious safari experience to see how much investment is put back into the local communities, and how ‘luxury’ and ‘doing good’ is one pretty amazing way to get introduced to South Africa…

South Africa is home to some of the most striking stretches of coastline in the world and nowhere can you witness such diverse natural wonders than in the Western Cape. Once you’ve had your fun in Cape Town, jump in the car and head south along the Cape Peninsula for an unforgettable road trip.

It won’t be long before your jaw drops at the sight of the breathtaking Chapman’s Peak drive, a 9km winding route that skirts the rocky coastline between Noordhoek and Hout Bay, its 114 curves rivalling the likes of the Amalfi Coast and Big Sur.

Stop en route in Noordhoek at Cape Point Vineyards, a mountainside winery and restaurant in a splendid setting.

If you can, time your visit on a Thursday so you can enjoy their pop-up market and picnic lakeside surrounded by vineyards, mountains, and sea – a truly scenic setup.  

At the tip of the Cape Peninsula you’ll find Cape Point, a nature reserve within the Table Mountain National Park with breathtaking scenery, quiet beaches, and over 7,500 hectares of rich flora and fauna.

Whether hiking, driving along the winding roads, or picnicking at one of the lookouts along the coast, your chances of seeing some of the resident wildlife are pretty good. The Natural World Heritage Site abounds with buck, baboons, Cape mountain zebras, various small mammals, and over 1 200 species of indigenous plants.

Once you reach the end of the road, you’ll be standing on top of one of the highest sea cliffs in the country, not too far from Africa’s most Southerly point. Take that realization in and breathe some of the  freshest air. 

Cape Point itself is a dramatic rocky outcrop over 200m high that slices into the Atlantic ocean. One can spend an eternity staring into the spectacular blues and greens of the crashing ocean below, spotting seals and sharks through the clear surface.

For a different and even more exciting seaside experience, head over to Boulders Beach near Simon’s Town. The sheltered cove is home to a colony of African (jackass) penguins and I guarantee you’ll have one of your best wildlife experiences there.

There aren’t many places in the world where you can get up close and personal with penguins, especially not in such a warm and idyllic setting.

They are pretty acclimated to being around humans so won’t mind you sitting among them or swimming alongside, giving you front row seat into their adorable daily life.

What makes Boulders Beach so attractive for a day at the beach besides its famous residents is its location on the Indian Ocean side of the peninsula (water is warmer here than on the Atlantic side) and its massive granite boulders which shelter the beach from waves. You get calm rock pools to explore (which I did on a SUP!) and warm boulders to lay on – perfect for a long, lazy picnic.   

Next, head inland for a glimpse into South Africa’s wine country, only an hour away. From Stellenbosch to Franschhoek, there are plenty of vineyards, hikes, spas, and farm-to-table restaurants to keep you busy for a few days.

A must visit in the region is Babylonstoren, an immersive farm dating back to 1692 with ridiculously gorgeous grounds to wander around. I dare you to find its equivalent anywhere else as I doubt it exists – the immensely pleasurable experience you’ll have here is truly one-of-a-kind. 

The expansive garden is its most famous attraction. Modeled after the mythological hanging gardens of Babylon, it grows over 300 edible species (plums, kale, gooseberries, olives, grapes, figs, persimmons, blood oranges, chesnuts, rye, wheat, alfalfa, risotto rice, almonds, pecans, rooibos, etc.), all available to pick and eat on the spot, and each clusters is linked by peach pits and oyster shells filled lanes. Turn a corner and you’ll find an eerie pond with edible lotus, birds picking their breakfast, and possibly a unicorn emerging from the bush.

With two restaurants and a bakery, you’ll be able to further indulge in the garden’s bounty (if you haven’t filled your belly on your walk already) and extend the beatific experience. While the main restaurant Babel is a fine choice, opt for the more relaxed Greenhouse at the back of the garden where you can sample fresh juices and baked goods under giant oak trees. 

Tortoises often make an appearance beneath the tables, no doubt looking for leftover morsels. 

Don’t leave without visiting the farm shop for lovely souvenirs or a snack for the road, their cured meat and cheeses forming the perfect base for an impromptu picnic. If you really can’t get yourself out of the premises, they also have a beautiful hotel & spa in the main building…

Back towards the coast, stop at the smaller but no less picturesque Harold Porter National Botanical Garden. With an enviable position between mountains and sea, it’s a wonderful introduction to the coastal fynbos (fynbos is the term used to describe the specific vegetation found only on the southern tip of Africa) and South Africa’s national flower, the king protea, shown here in its natural habitat.

It makes for a very pleasant walk to stretch your legs among unique small heatherlike trees and shrubs.

If you didn’t get your fill of penguin cuteness on Boulders Beach you’ll get a second chance in Betty’s Bay just a few minutes drive from the botanical garden. The quaint coastal town sees fewer tourists and there’s a large colony of your feathered friends on a rocky promontory called Stony Point.

Although not as pleasant as swimming and sunbathing with them on a white sandy beach, it’s still an entertaining watch and photos opportunities abound. 

You’ll notice another poser out there too in the sun-loving dassie. Commonly known as rock hyraxes, these guinea-like creatures are surprisingly the closest relatives to elephants! They love sunbathing on rocks and hang out in large groups so you should see plenty of them just loafing around.

End your Western Cape tour on a high note by splurging and spending a night or two at Grootbos Private Nature Reserve. Only two hours from Cape Town, you’ll feel like on another planet taking in the expansive, breathtaking vista of mountains, fynbos, and sea of this pristine conservation success story.

27 luxurious suites are divided between two lodges and overlook a majestic sweep of coastline, perfectly blending nature with modern amenities.

You’ll just want to stretch out with a book on your private deck and marvel at the view of Walker Bay. 

The cuisine is exquisite with a focus on local seafood and integrating vegetables and herbs grown on the premises.

Lunch and breakfast are served with a view at the Garden Restaurant. The most magical breeze will accompany them, carrying the freshest sea air and aromas from the hundreds of unique flowers and plants surrounding you – a multisensory experience for sure! 

These welcome luxuries, as extraordinary as they are, play second fiddle though to the mission of Grootbos and the reason why one comes here:  to truly be immersed in nature.

Grootbos – which translates to “Big Forest” in Afrikaans – was built among three enchanting milkwood forests. These gnarled, ancient trees are known to live for more than 1,000 years and will graciously greet you on the short walk to your suite with their hauntingly beautiful twisted arms.

One of the best activity to do here is to take a “flower safari” by 4×4 which will introduce you to the region’s unique biodiversity.

The entire reserve is dedicated to the preservation and understanding of the endemic fynbos (or “fine bush”) ecosystem which blankets Grootbos’ hillsides with bright, intricate flowers of every shade. The air is filled with the sweet scent of seasonal flowers and the buzzing sound of a million insects and birds for an undeniably very unique safari. 

The 2,500 hectares reserve is host to a remarkable 765 fynbos species, 100 of which are endangered and six that had never been discovered before. I couldn’t help but imagine the medicinal and culinary properties yet to be unearthed! 

The fynbos is generally quite dense and tall here so your chances of seeing wildlife are slim, though if you’re patient you might catch a sight of a small antelope as I did…

Another worthwhile excursion is the chance to tour their amazing social projects of which there are many. The Grootbos Foundation works to conserve the critically endangered fynbos, while also focusing on the training and skills development of the surrounding communities.  

Their Green Futures College trains young adults from the local area in conservation, giving them the skills and confidence necessary to become employable while contributing to the preservation and promotion of the region’s unique biodiversity. 

The Gansbaai Community Farm aims to improve food security and dietary variety in the local community by serving as an agricultural support hub.

It serves as a training space for community members teaching the basics of food production with the aim of self-sustainability and as a support on a path to sustainable livelihoods.

Graduates are allocated allotments, putting into practice the principles they have learnt, and eventually will be able to set up their own self-sustaining (and hopefully income-generating) home food gardens.

No doubt Grootbos is one of the shiniest examples of progressive tourism I have ever seen, and adding this conservation component to a trip to South Africa really highlights the truly unique and priceless ecosystem they have. One I hope will continue to thrive for generations to come. 

Dramatic coastline with plenty of fine beaches, gently rolling vineyards, sapphire blue ocean vistas, and iconic Table Mountain towering above it all, Cape Town is the topographic dream of the world’s grandest metropolis. As I stood and admired the view from Lion’s Head, one of its many mountains, I fell for the incredible scenery as much as for the scattered cultural and historical wonders its curves concealed.

What makes South Africa’s “Mother City” so attractive to travelers is the sheer proximity of so many diverse and exhilarating things to do. In a single day you could visit Mandela’s former cell, sip wine surrounded by beautiful vineyards, hike up Table Mountain, get a tan on a gorgeous beach, and enjoy world-class cuisine in between. What’s not to love?

The V&A Waterfront (for ‘Victoria & Albert’) is a popular starting off point with main hotels, shopping, and entertainment within a small area (meaning it’s packed full of tourists). Definitely worth a stroll on a sunny day where you can stop by Nobel Square to see statues of Nelson Mandela and other South African Nobel Prize winners.

Three excellent markets will take care of your shopping needs, my favorite being the Watershed where you will find the best of local design and craft. 

With over 150 shops, you’ll find everything from leather bags to handmade toys to ostrich-egg earrings and a lot of stunning decor for your home (so save some room in that luggage!).

Your eyes won’t miss the latest opening on the waterfront: The Silo Hotel. Cape Town’s latest luxury hotel is a sight to behold, housed in a former grain silo building and sitting atop the recently opened Zeitz MOCAA Museum.

Every floor boasts stunning views of Cape Town through the 5.5m high pillowed glass windows, whether you’re sipping a glass at the stunning Willaston Bar…

…or soaking in your claw-foot tub.

It’s the rooftop terrace and its 360-degree view though that sold me. Is this the world’s most spectacular view from a hotel terrace? Possibly…

Back down, if you need a bite with a bit of sand between your toes, head to Grand Africa Café & Beach just a short walk away. 

A private man-made beach with two bars and a wooden deck, the busy spot is perfect for a casual meal with a worldly Riviera feel.

Leave the water behind and head inland towards the center of Cape Town until you spot the technicolor spectacle that is Bo Kaap.

Formerly known as the Malay Quarter, Bo Kaap is famous for its cobble stoned streets lined with brightly painted 18th century cottages, making it one of the most unique neighborhoods in all of South Africa. 

This township was where the Muslim community settled when they were brought to South Africa as slaves by the Dutch. You’ll find traditional mosques, delicious Cape Malay cuisine, and an enduring Muslim culture as you wander the rainbow-colored streets. 

From there, simply walk down a few blocks to find yourself in the city center and ready to sample some scrumptious tapas at Chefs Warehouse and Canteen on popular Bree street. 

Part deli and kitchen store, its walls are lined with shelves filled with cookbooks, ceramic plates, and exotic spices. 

One of my top places in Cape Town, it manages to be both casual in its approach and sophisticated in its presentation. Simply said, their tapas platter (a selection of tapas for two as shown below) is one of the best values in town and generous too, come hungry!

Black Pepper & Chilli Deep Fried Squid w Hoisin Dipping Sauce

Tuna Tartare w Black Bean Salsa & Black Garlic Emulsion

Lamb Rump w Tomato Ragout & Olives

Carrot Risotto

Walk off those calories by taking a stroll down to The Company’s Garden, a serene park in the middle of the city. Take a seat to watch the locals go by for a while and make your way to the South African National Gallery at the end of the park.

It has a fantastic collection of art ranging from old Dutch masters to contemporary pieces.

By now, you should have spent a decent amount of time admiring the mountains surrounding the city and itching to get up there. There’s definitely no shortage of hiking trails around Cape Town though there are a few favorites if your time is limited.  Besides getting to the top of Table Mountain (either by the power of your two legs or the cable car), a hike up Lion’s Head will reward you with some of the best photo ops around.

As you soar above the  city, you’ll get magnificent views far into the distance, here looking at the undulating spine of Signal Hill towards the waterfront.

Turn the corner and you’ll be able to spot the famous Robben Island where Nelson Mandela was imprisoned for 18 years.

The slow pace of the uphill walk and fewer crowds than on Table Mountain also means the chance to observe some of the local flora and fauna…

It’s worth doing a bit of research (or going with a local) as Lion’s Head hides a few caves with spectacular views, often just a short walk away from the main path. 

You’ll get a good view of Table Mountain on your way down…

…and make a stop at the parking lot on Signal Hill for the obligatory framed photo op.

The slope of Signal Hill unveils charming tree-lined neighborhoods and vibrant streets with shops and restaurants you’ll want to explore for an afternoon.

The culinary hub of Kloof Street is a great place to grab a meal and I highly recommend you pull up a seat at The Black Sheep. 

Fun and relaxed, it’s the kind of place you’ll want to linger at, especially if you get one of the front window seats with a view of Table Mountain (you haven’t tired of it just yet). 

With a daily changing menu on the blackboard, expect lots of local produce and fresh proteins which will go down pretty well with a bottle of local Chenin Blanc or Pinotage (especially noticing said bottle is the same price as a glass back home).

Roasted Kingklip with basil crushed potatoes and tomato salsa

Tropical Eton mess

After city and mountains, next stop is the beach! It’s summertime in South Africa right now and the coast is drenched in glorious sunshine. Picking one out of the 72 stretches of sand (you read that right) is overwhelming although you’d likely find them all stunning. I chose the iconic Camps Bay beach for its variety of activities and beachfront full of cocktail bars and seafood restaurants. 

The setting is incredible with the Twelve Apostles standing guard right behind and the curved white sand beach being regularly lapped by the Atlantic Ocean. Here the beautiful people mingle with the tourists, simply relaxing before heading to one of the many bars for some seriously scenic sundowners.

When dinner calls, follow the hip crowd to The Shortmarket Club, a modern bistro from one of Cape Town’s most celebrated chefs and a damn fine place for a mouthwatering meal with a buzz. 

Citrus cured duck breast, turnip fondant, wild sage smoked figs, garlic ricotta and liquorice jus

On a sunny afternoon, few places can rival the Kirstenbosch Botanical Garden for whiling away the hours.  Regarded as one of the most magnificent botanical gardens in the world, Kirstenbosch is nestled at the eastern foot of Table Mountain and is home to approximately 7,000 indigenous plants and trees as well as a natural forest…enough to keep you busy for hours!

Don’t miss the Tree Canopy Walkway, a curvaceous steel and timber bridge that rises through the trees and provides amazing views.

When you’re tired of walking (there is a lot of ground to cover!), join the locals lazing and picnicking on the lawns.

Now that you’ve feasted, tanned, hiked, shopped, and gotten some culture, it’s time to see the other side of Cape Town that so many miss and I guarantee it’ll be one of the highlights of your visit. I’m talking about Cape Town’s Townships, the settlements where the black population was confined until the end of apartheid 20 years ago. Usually refer to as ‘shanty towns’ in other parts of the world, you will have driven by them on your way from the airport. While most travelers will return the same way without stopping, missing a vibrant world of culture, history, and hopeful future, you can discover it all on a half-day Township Tour.

Khayelitsha township – Population: Estimated at a million residents

I went on a philanthropic tour of the Khayelitsha township with Uthando, a wonderful non-profit organization that reinvests the fees collected from the tours into the townships community projects. You might for example visit a community garden centre such as Abalimi where they teach locals how to subsist by setting up their own sustainable garden so they can grow organic crops for sale and for eating at home.

At eKhaya eKasi, families impacted by extreme poverty are offered after-school activities for their children and skills training for unemployed adults. You’ll find some creative beadwork in their art boutique to take home as a souvenir.

If you’re in luck, you might also be treated to a dazzling performance by Major Voices, local boys who have made singing and dancing their life’s calling. It will leave you tapping and clapping as you continue your journey…

Lastly, you’ll hear the screams and laughter as you reach the entrance to Iminathi. Over 90 children from 6 months to 6 years old get dropped off by their parents every day at this day care centre. It offers a safe space, nutritious meals, and stimulating pre-school programs for these kids who would otherwise often be left alone at home.

In just a half day you will have felt the invigorating energy of neighborhoods on the rise and gotten to know the other side of Cape Town which is so essential in understanding the city. It’s these faces you’ll take with you on the plane back along with coastal vistas that will fill your dreams for months to come….