It’s easy to forget about the coastal beach towns when you’re standing in the middle of Guanajuato. The heartland of Mexico is a stunning city set in a picturesque valley surrounded by mountains on all sides, hugging you in towards its beating and vibrant heart. You’ll find it 50 miles west of San Miguel de Allende, and although both share a similar near-perfect climate and colorful colonial architecture, Guanajuato has a personality of its own – youthful and less polished, in a good way.

The beautiful historic center has been a UNESCO World Heritage site since 1988 and trails up and down steep hills in an artful display. Vibrant colors stand out as much from the colorful houses as from the creative murals found throughout the labyrinthine streets.

The majority of the creations are centered around “La Muerte” and Mexico’s love for the cult of death.

Nowhere is this love more in display than at the fascinating if a little gruesome Mummies Museum. It’s a must see in Guanajuato and an enlightening introduction to local customs and traditions. 

The naturally mummified remains of locals who died during a cholera outbreak in the mid-19th century were disinterred between 1865 and 1958 for failure by relatives to pay cemetery taxes. Tourists can now pay a small fee to witness the spectacle, read some of the deceased’s life stories, and learn the grisly reason behind some of the mummies’s frightening expressions: some of those buried were still alive at the time!

Just as you think it couldn’t get more spine-chilling, you’re presented with the infants and their mothers. The museum claims to have the world’s smallest mummy…

Thankfully the joyous, rainbow-colored world outside should help you erase these frightful images for a little while as you continue to explore the gorgeous city.

Although reminders will likely show up at every corner… What a beauty though!

Street snacks are plentiful and delicious, just like pretty much everywhere in Mexico! I’m partial to a freshly grilled gordita – a masa “pocket” stuffed with cheese, potatoes, chorizo, etc. 

Hidalgo Market is Guanajuato’s main market where locals buy groceries and a quick bite to eat.

The second floor has vendors selling crafts and souvenirs, with a commanding view over the food stalls.

Continue along Avenida Juarez to reach the Plaza de los Angeles, a pleasant and quiet square.

It is mostly famous today for standing at the entrance of the city’s most romantic and famous street: The Callejón del Beso (or Alley of the Kiss) which is narrow enough to allow a loving couple to kiss from windows on opposite sides. 

Back on the main street, feel the pull of the gate to Jardin Reforma and step inside.

The leafy square is the perfect place to rest your weary feet and enjoy a shaded break from the Mexican sun.

Take the stairs to your right to have a look at San Roque Temple.

From here it’s time to wander at will through hundreds of narrow cobblestone callejones (alleyways), feeling Guanajuato’s distinct European flavor and enjoying its mostly pedestrian only historic centre.

Plaza de San Fernando is especially gorgeous.

When you’ve worked up an appetite, make your way to nearby Mestizo.

The exquisite restaurant is housed in the former gallery of famous potter Capello (his son is the owner and chef).

Get ready to savor top quality Mexican cuisine at gentle prices.

Tuna carpaccio Mexican style

Chicken with the house mole

Next, follow the quaint Positos street going east…

…until you arrive two blocks later at the former home of Diego Rivera which has been converted into an excellent museum.

The famed Mexican muralist was born in Guanajuato and you’ll be able to imagine his early years in this house on top of admiring an outstanding collection of his sketches, drawings and paintings.

The splendid University of Guanajuato opened its doors in 1828 and remains one of the oldest universities in Latin America. 

It’s hard not to feel dwarfed/stunned by the famous staircase leading up to this fine neoclassical structure.

Another stunning building is right down the street, the Temple of the Jesuit Order.

The ornate Churrigueresque styled facade merits a closer look as does the large interior.

Wherever you walk you’re likely to end up at some point at Plaza de la Paz. Historically the city’s main plaza, it is now the administrative centre of Guanajuato and a fine place to admire the magnificent yellow Basilica of Guanajuato.

Templo de San Francisco

Santos Cafe definitely falls into the “unique setting” category with its terrace on a bridge – a fantastic location for people-watching.

The true heart of the city is Jardin de la Union, a triangle shaped plaza lined with some of the city’s best bars and restaurants and constantly buzzing.

The elegant square cut trees are its most noticeable feature and provide a welcoming shade in the middle of the day.

Right across the street stands the beautiful Teatro Juárez, the city’s opera house. The steps leading to the splendid neoclassical building are a favorite meeting place for locals and tourists, but I suggest standing across to admire the ensemble of columns and Greek statues.

Walk to the back of the theater to reach the entrance to the funicular which will bring  you swiftly up to the El Pipila statue, 

While seeing up close the huge monument in honor of a local hero of the War of Independence is impressive, it’s the unbeatable panoramic views over the city that make the trip worthwhile. 

The entire historic centre of Guanajuato is laid out before your eyes, and you’ll be able to easily identify most of your stops around the city from up here. 

Guanajuato was so pretty from down there, you’ll be shocked just how extraordinarily beautiful it is from up here, cradled by the mountains of the Sierra Madre. You’ll most certainly get sucked right back in, eager to explore more of these charming colonial streets.

No matter how enchanting the center of San Miguel de Allende is, if you’re here for more than a day or two you will have quickly covered the 24 blocks of narrow streets that make up the Unesco World Heritage site. Fret not, its charm extends far beyond the centro limits and spills into little neighborhoods equally worth your time. 

Walking south, the streets become more residential though no less vibrant.

The abundance of greenery is what strikes you first as you enter the neighborhood called El Parque. Towering trees, creeping vines, and flower-covered balconies bring shade and poetic beauty to the cobbled streets. 

In its center you’ll find el Parque Benito Juarez, a tranquil oasis where locals exercise, socialize, relax and play. 

The stately houses surrounding it are some of the fanciest in town and with nearly as much foliage and serenity as the park itself.

Take the short street leading up on the east side of the park to arrive at the Lavaderos del Chorro.

The old square is where people used to come wash their clothes in the crimson stone tubs, and it appears some still do today!

Continue the uphill stroll amid enchanting buildings and backdrops, with nary another tourist in sight.

Almost hidden by a multitude of soaring trees, El Chorro (the spring) is a steep little hill whose springs supply the city with water. It is San Miguel’s version of Lombard street in San Francisco and one of the most scenic promenade in the city. Time to start the real climb…

After navigating your way up through winding staircases and cascading patios, you’ll arrive at a pretty plaza and one of the oldest buildings in San Miguel – the 16th century church of La Capilla de Santa Cruz del Chorro. It’s utterly peaceful and ridiculously attractive which means you should make use of the benches up here to catch your breath and a few good shots of the idyllic scene in front of you. 

The vertical ascent is a good workout and let’s you peak into narrow lanes and take in local vignettes of daily life.

Your huffing and puffing will soon end and you’ll be rewarded with a magnificent view of San Miguel from El Mirador. It’s truly as picturesque from above as it is from the inside…

The way down is equally photo-worthy.

You’ll soon be back on lower grounds and most probably starving, and thankfully there are numerous eateries outside El Centro for all your cravings. Head to Cafe Rama for colorful salads and eclectic art in a  bright and airy space.

Jocoque is the Mexican version of crème fraîche and often served with a refreshing salad of apples, watermelon, dried cranberries, cucumbers, jalapenos, and blue cheese to mix and eat with pita chips… a great appetizer for sharing!

Right across the street from Cafe Rama you’ll find Jardinrama, a lively fish taco stand/restaurant.

Vegetable ceviche

Fish tacos

If you’re looking for meat tacos instead, head south along Ancha de San Antonio for about 10 minutes until you’ve reached Taqueria Brasilia, a roadside joint recommended by locals (and filled with them – always a good sign!).

You can’t go wrong with the Al Pastor, and I can personally vouch for the chorizo too, topped with cheese…both going for less than $1. Quench your thirst with a cold horchata and you’ve got yourself the best quality/price meal in all of San Miguel. 

For a change of scenery, head to the Rosewood Hotel nearby.

The replica of a Spanish colonial mansion is set in a quiet part of town and filled with luxury amenities.

Head straight to Luna, the rooftop tapas bar, for possibly the best views of the city.

You’ll find another healthy dose of nature by heading north of the centro this time. Grab lunch at Via Organica, a non-profit organisation that works to promote organic farming, fair trade and a healthy lifestyle.

Fill your belly with good-for-you dishes such as vegetarian croquettes made with quinoa, amaranth, pecans and swiss chard…delish! There’s also a market attached so you can buy groceries and organic products for the road.

Now that you’re filled with energy, time to of course climb again! Head east and start your ascent from Cuesta de San Jose.

As you get higher the city houses will soon turn into mega mansions with views to boot and pristine facades.

Pink is the word and you’d never thought it would look so good on an exterior wall…

After about 20 minutes’ walk you will have reached your destination: El Charco del Ingenio aka San Miguel’s botanical garden and nature reserve.

It is a must see if you’re visiting San Miguel for a couple of days as you’ve probably never seen anything like it so close to the city.

You could easily spend a couple of hours wandering around the many pathways, passing through wetlands and scenic areas of native plants.

There’s even a canyon with its own freshwater spring and a few legends worth reading about. 

The higher grounds offer yet more beautiful views and the sheer size of the park means you’ll likely get long stretches without seeing anyone.

Time your walk back with the sunset for an extra treat and to catch that magical glow all over San Miguel.

All those hilly walks will surely have tired your muscles and I can’t think of a better way to end your stay in San Miguel than with a visit to one of the numerous hot springs around town. A 10 min cab ride will bring you to the most popular one – La Gruta – a tree-shaded site mixing local families and expats around several interconnected pools. There’s a restaurant on site and a spa/massage center so you could easily spend the day here and for about $20 I think that’s a pretty good deal! 

But the real attraction is the grotto which you access via a tunnel from the main hot pool. As you make your way inside, the water gets progressively warmer, and I mean hot at this point!

At the end you’ll find a dark, steamy rocky cave and you’ll want to hang out there for a bit, sweating your toxins out and enjoying this prehistoric bath. You could literally spend the day alternating between the outside and the cave, a pretty good way to detox!

All relaxed and pampered, treat yourself to a fine dining experience for your last meal as San Miguel boasts many. I opted for Moxi in the Hotel Matilda just outside the center, mostly because I had tasted the famous chef Enrique Olvera’s exquisite cuisine in New York at Cosme and wanted to see how he measured up at home (just as good!).

The sophisticated ambiance differs from the bright eateries San Miguel is known for and set the pace for the elegant dinner you’re about to have. 

Make sure you try some of the local wines to pair with the Mexican-accented international cuisine, you’ll be pleasantly surprised.

I went with an intensely flavorful barbacoa of organic artichokes, lamb broth and chickpeas, served with fresh tortillas…unbelievable. 

Dessert was the biggest surprise and again proves how talented Enrique is for making me fall in love with a potato as a sweet ending! It’s one of their specialty – Baked sweet potato with pilloncillo syrup, pumpkin seed, cacao crumble and local cream…honestly one of the best desserts I’ve had in a while.

No need to say that the bill was a fraction of the one in New York, making this fancy meal even more delightful and the thought of coming back to San Miguel that much more enticing/realistic!

Magical, enchanting, ‘Disneyesque’… just a few of the many adjectives used to describe San Miguel de Allende, one of Mexico’s prettiest towns. You won’t find any palm-fringed beaches here or blue waters, only some of the most picturesque cobblestoned streets and colorful colonial architecture.

Everyone is falling in love with the striking destination, from artists who have been flocking here since the 1930s to expats who for the past few decades have chosen San Miguel to settle down. They got hooked on the pure beauty, the eternal spring climate, and the people who created one of the most vibrant culture around…you will too.

It’s not easy to get to (you’ll most likely need a connection and a 1+ hour shuttle) and that’s part of its charms. Once there you’ll immediately feel like home and set out to explore it’s compact historical center, starting at the main plaza of El Jardin.

The heart of San Miguel truly has everything you came here for: friendly locals, delicious local food…

…a spring-like setting year round for you to just sit back and breathe in the fresh mountain air…

…and stunning architecture right in front of you. This is La Parroquia, one of the few major sights, whose dramatic gothic façade was inspired by Gaudi’s Sagrada Familia in Barcelona. 

For a good intro to the city, step inside the Historical Museum next to the church which is housed in the home of San Miguel’s most famous son – Ignacio Allende, a hero of the Mexican War of Independence. You’ll learn all about San Miguel from the prehistoric times to today and will be able to see staged rooms from Ignacio’s era, depicting life in the 18th century.

Most of the rest of your visit will be just wandering around the blocks of narrow streets and alleys as the city itself is truly the attraction here.

There’s an Instagram moment waiting at every turn and an irrepressible urge to use the term ‘cute’ in repetition. 

Shops here are a mix of art galleries, modern boutiques and souvenirs stalls, enticing you in with bohemian entryways and sunny courtyards. You’ll feel as if you’re walking into someone else’s mansion every time, some pretty gorgeous ones at that!

Adorable cafes abound, and one of the favorites is Lavanda Cafe.

Cue the homey interior which is perfect for their famous breakfasts.

It’s the rustic courtyard that stole my heart though.

And their equally famous Lavender Latte – as the name implies, they use lavender in their menu items to great effect!

Besides cute cafes, there’s a thriving culinary scene brought on by the increase in international visitors, and La Canica is one of the latest openings.

A Michelin-starred Spanish Chef paired with a celebrated local chef to create a fusion restaurant of tapas and inventive spins on local cuisine.

Embrace both worlds by ordering the house sangria to sip after the complimentary shot of tequila, it’ll get any meal off to a good start. 

Watermelon and asparagus tempura is just one example of the eclectic cuisine served here, ideal for soaking up cocktails with a couple of friends.

The first time you walk around San Miguel you’re mainly distracted by all the colors and massive mansions towering each side of these tiny streets, taking large angle pictures to try and capture the general aesthetic of the place. When it’s your second time around though, you start noticing the minute details and especially the doors, not one of them identical.

There are entire photo books solely dedicated to the doors of San Miguel and you’ll have no trouble understanding why. The wood work, the stain, the symbols…each its own personality.

The closer you get to the center, the more lavish the streets become, a lot of the mansions having been turned into high-end boutique hotels.

Still, the culture shines through with Mexican artifacts and artworks slipping through, death being the number one inspiration. 

You’ll eventually stumble upon a busy corner flanked by an enormous yellow building – go towards it!

The imposing Bellas Artes Centro Cultural is firstly an art school…

…and secondly an oasis of beauty and peace in the middle of the city. 

Peak around to hear and glimpse at the various classes taking place, from classical music to folkloric dance, and admire the art filled courtyard at the core of it all. It’s worth settling in for a bit on the lawn and feel (and hear!) the San Miguel magic. 

You’re also almost guaranteed to witness some form of festival or parade while you’re here as there are too many to count. A great occasion for the young ones to put their classes into practice.

Another prevalent feature – adorable commercial courtyards. Unlike the ones mentioned previously inside gallery/stores, these appear out of nowhere under every other open archways and will lead you to tiny cafes, flea markets and artists studios. Visit as many as you can.

In the ‘unexpected’ category, only rarely do you see a Public Library listed among the major tourist sites…except for here. Check the courtyard and their leafy vegetarian cafe and then come back by the entrance for the stunning gift shop with the incredible wall art.

If all that sightseeing got you hungry, there’s a quick and traditional restaurant across the street, El Comal de Dona Meche, where for a mere $2 you can feast like a king on freshly made gorditas, fried masa stuffed with a variety of fillings.

Walk down Relox street towards El Jardin for some great shopping. Besides local sweets and apparel stores, you’ll also find Doce-18, a hip hybrid retail and dining space. 

Housed in a lovingly restored 18th century building, the collective concept brings together high-end boutiques, designer clothing and gourmet cuisine. 

Your shopping adventure ends in a light-filled food court featuring some of Mexico’s most celebrated chefs’ offerings.

At the other end of the spectrum, you must go to the local market a few blocks away for the ultimate local experience (with local prices!).

Make your way around the corner to Plaza de la Soledad for more local food options, from traditional baked goods…

…to morning tamales for less than $0,25! 

You’ll also find some of the town’s nicest churches, such as the Oratorio de San Felipe Neri. 

Turn around to see the back of the even more beautiful Church of San Francisco. 

Its front is worth admiring, an elaborate late-18th-century Churrigueresque facade in dusty pink. The garden is yet another mini oasis in this ever-so-charming town.

Right across the street (everything is so close together here!) you’ll find Cafe San Agustin, usually with a long line out the door (this was weekday morning, good time to go!).

The old school cafe is on everyone’s ‘must-do’ list when in San Miguel and a solid recommendation for breakfast.

The main reason to come here and most probably wait though? The chocolate and churros. Don’t even think to leave without eating at least an order.

There are quite a few more options if like me you have a sweet tooth in the morning. Cumpanio is ideal if your travel companions don’t agree on the best way to start the day.

The all day restaurant, cafe and bakery has something for everyone, from freshly baked delicacies (they’re particularly known from their bread)…

…to savory meals like this cactus and mozzarella brunch dish. 

And just slightly outside the center you’ll find Mesa Grande in a nondescript building.

The bakery/cafe has the best pains au chocolat and a homey feel that’ll make you want to sit down and do nothing…or read a book about it! 

The midday meal is usually a quick stop at a taco bar or eaten off the street. Don Taco Tequila has some of the best tacos and amazing salsas to accompany your complimentary tortilla chips – that alone could be your meal!

You’ll never go wrong with meat-filled tacos here, though it’s interesting to also try vegetarian options like this nopales and mushrooms taco. 

Simple cheese tacos can be found anywhere and are a great vehicle for all the salsas and pickles.

After a busy day of eating and walking around, there is still the best to come in that magical hour right before sunset. The hues of San Miguel really come into their own then and you’ll want to revisit all your favorite spots of the day to capture them in all their glory.

It’s also when a lot of cultural festivities kick off, usually centered around El Jardin.

The whole town seems to be here and the people-watching is endless.

Food carts sell traditional snacks of corn with cheese and mayo (trolelotes) and bags of chips that get topped with vegetables, spices, and sauces (Dorilocos). 

Eat yours while browsing the shops or simply admiring the stunning architecture giving its best performance.

When dinner time calls, there are plenty of options a few blocks from the main plaza in surprisingly quiet streets. 

The Restaurant is a must try, as much to soak in its elegant, Moorish architecture as to indulge in its superb modern cuisine.

The menu is international but you can also stay local and enjoy some terrific duck tostadas.

Burnt caramel ice cream sundae with marshmallow sauce and salted Spanish Peanuts

For something a little less upscale but still special, La Mezcaleria is a stylish and hip eatery focusing on small plates and obviously some pretty amazing Mezcal-based drinks.

The grilled octopus with pineapple was a perfect match with my cucumber margarita .

And you should definitely end your meal with their smooth avocado ice cream.

Many more things to eat and see right outside the center of San Miguel in my next blog post…stay tuned!