Perched on a hilltop surrounded by vineyards, the small village of Flavigny-sur-Ozerain hides behind its fortified walls one of the highest concentration of instagrammable French village scenes.

Listed as one of the loveliest villages in France, you’ll find it in the heart of Burgundy some 60 kilometers away from Dijon, hence perfect for a day trip.

Flavigny has two claims to fame besides its immaculately preserved buildings. It is firstly known all over France as the birthplace of some very famous sweets – Les Anis de Flavigny. Everyone in the country knows these pretty little oval tins of aniseeds sweets which are only produced here and have been for the past 400 years, making it the oldest brand in all of France!

The factory is still in the same old ivy-covered Benedictine abbey and you’ll want to follow the smell inside to visit the shop and museum.

As famous for their taste as for their adorable packaging, the pea-sized white balls come in over twelve different flavors which will punctuate your visit with lovely hint of orange blossom, rose petals, lemon, violet, and liquorice among others (there’s plenty of tasting too!).

Its second claim to fame, which extends beyond the country’s borders, is that it was the backdrop for the Oscar-nominated movie ‘Chocolat‘ starring Juliette Binoche and Johnny Depp. 

Curvy rows of traditional Burgundy houses extend every which way you look, all in that attractive light local stone of the region with just enough pops of color to brighten the monotonous days. 

Look out for the shop where Vianne (Juliette Binoche’s character) opened her chocolate boutique on the Place de l’Eglise. It was all a fantasy unfortunately as all you’ll find there today is a dusty granary…

Wander down the narrow side streets of this historic maze and marvel at the simple fact that this place still exists today, as untouched and authentic as can be. 

Thank the local inhabitants who have taken great pride in the preservation and restoration of their village as you explore its every nook and crannies, finding architectural gems at every turn.

The sturdy walls encircling the tiny heart have stories to tell too, having witnessed the Hundred Years’ War and kept their eyes over the green, hilly landscape all around them.

It’s worth taking a stroll outside of the walls just to see the three remaining gates, some dating as far back as the 13th century.

Go back inside in the quiet, eerie enclave and continue your visual treat. 

Your wandering will eventually lead you to the central place unsurprisingly dominated by a looming stone church.

It’s also where you’ll find one of the very few restaurants in town inside an old barn. 

Meals at La Grange are everything a Burgundian feast should be – astonishingly good in the humblest of settings. The restaurant is managed by a group of local farmers who showcase their produce and turn them into sensational local cuisine served communal style. 

By now you’ll be eyeing a few dream houses and asking yourself ‘What if…?’.

Even the modest ones have unique features elevating their simple facade. 

Others are more showy with their medieval attributes…

And some are an artist’s hidden chef d’oeuvre for the discerning wanderers only…

Peek through gates and iron fences for a glimpse of the village’s grandest affairs.

Though it’s in the tiniest of alleys that I always find the most awe-inspiring views.

We found these hidden underneath the coach gate…

With fewer than 400 lucky souls calling this place home, Flavigny is one of those hidden treasures we want to preserve for generations to come. Tell your friends with a sweet tooth they have an enchanting place to visit where the air smells of candies, and all the others they can literally relive a famous movie in a setting frozen in time.

The medieval city of Dijon might just be one of France’s best kept secrets. Only a 90-minute train ride south of Paris brings you to a beautiful town at the doorstep of Burgundy’s wine region with a fabled history and a culinary pedigree that extends far beyond its famed mustard. 

What I loved most about Dijon is the fact that, despite being a modern regional capital, it has retained much of its historic past and is a real pleasure to walk around. Whether in the old center or the business district, you’ll stumbled upon so many charming buildings, fountains, and urban oasis you’ll never want to take the same path twice.

Always lively with a big student population, the center is filled with casual cafes where locals meet over drinks and snacks like at Café de l’Industrie.

You’ll soon notice some unique markings embedded in the pavement bearing the town’s emblem – a little golden owl! This charming feature is actually showing you the tourists routes in the historical center. Make sure to pick up the map at the Tourist Office of ‘Le Parcours de la Chouette’ (meaning the Owl’s Trail) and you’ll be on your way to see Dijon’s main sights!

Hopefully you’ll be here on one of the Market Days (Tuesday, Fridays, and Saturdays) to see the region’s bounty and shop like a true local. The market hall itself is a beautiful sight of metal and glass and was designed by Gustave Eiffel, the one from the Eiffel Tower fame!

This will surely open up your appetite and thankfully there’s a great bistro right on Market Square from where you can watch the action while sampling the specialties of Burgundy – DZ’Envies. 

Escargots de Bourgogne are a must (snails in garlic-herb butter).

And so is the meltingly tender beef bourguignon.

The streets of Dijon are filled with elegant mansions which used to belong to the Dukes of Burgundy and other distinguished owners. The city has the largest amount of buildings which are more than 300 years old and still standing, so walk slow and lift your head up to admire the well-preserved facades, roofs, and gates.

Art Deco also makes beautiful appearances on commercial buildings.

There’s always a crowd in Place Francois Rude which marks the center of the pedestrian area and seems to be the #1 locals meeting spot. Surrounding the carousel you’ll find plenty of casual bars and restaurants to rest your feet and grab a bite with a quintessentially French Village scene unfolding in front of you. 

It’s a good occasion to keep on digging into the vast French culinary repertoire and savor some beef carpaccio…

…and sweet chocolate crepes. No one does them quite like the French so we made our fill!

The south side of the weirdly shaped square branches out into numerous streets, but you’ll want to take the curved Rue des Forges to see more of these grand mansions (it’s also where you’ll find the Tourist Office). 

Nearby Rue Musette is where you can get a glimpse of the facade of what is considered the “Grande Dame” of Dijon churches – Eglise Notre-Dame.

Also where you can get a very good breakfast from Tartin’Art where wonderful croissants and breads are baked fresh multiple times a day. 

While you may be used to its light and flaky rendition found everywhere, try an original ‘Pain au Chocolat‘ in crusty baguette form for a change, it’s as delicious!

The Church of Notre-Dame is a masterpiece of 13th-century Gothic architecture built between 1230 and 1250.

It’s the splendid facade that demands attention though, with its rows of gargoyles presented as grotesque figures.

There’s also a unique clock tower on the roof created in 1382 with charming jacquemarts (mechanical figures that chime the church bells on the hour). 

Follow the Owl’s Trail around to find THE famous owl carved on the side of the church.  A superstition states that luck would accompany anyone who strokes the bird with their left hand while making a wish, hence why it’s looking so worn out today! 

Continue going east of the church into the old Ducal quarter which oozes medieval charm. Stop by Maison Millière, a beautiful house from the 15th century turned into a tea room and restaurant. 

French cinephiles might recognize it as it was used during the shooting of the film “Cyrano de Bergerac” with Gérard Depardieu.

Notice the owl perched high atop the roof, and the cat to the right? 

Follow any of the streets at the back of the church for some of the most charming wandering around, with narrow cobbled lanes and half-timbered houses wherever you look.  

Rue Verrerie is especially quaint with antique stores and the most picturesque glimpse into ‘medieval Dijon’. 

It’s a quieter side of the town, perfect for lazily browsing the many shops and sitting at sidewalk cafes for a while. 

When you hit Place de la République, you will have reached the northern border of the old town so take a breather and walk back towards the antics district.

Venture into little side streets to see not-too-shabby residential neighborhoods.

Quench your thirst at Chez Bruno, an unpretentious and cozy wine bar favored by locals with a huge selection and tasty charcuterie boards.  

Across the street, you’ll find one of Dijon’s best restaurants in a listed historical building – La Maison des Cariatides. Look at the mysterious human figures carved into the ornate Renaissance facade before going inside.

The Michelin-star restaurant offers a delectable tasting menu (no à la carte here) of fresh and innovative fare with every ingredients sourced from nearby farms. 

Their version of fried whitebait and mozzarella sticks…

There’s still plenty to see around so digest while making your way back to the center, stopping by Place du Théâtre to see the Public Library/Museum of La Nef…

…and making your way a block over to the end of Rue Verrerie for a lovely example of a house with a turret.

Turn around and you’ll find yourself amidst the peaceful setting of the Square des Ducs, behind the famous Palais des Ducs de Bourgogne. The massive building is the city’s centerpiece and holds the Fine Arts Museum among other things. 

Take a peek inside to see one of France’s oldest and most important art museums, especially the Salle des Gardes where the tombs of the Dukes of Burgundy rest among exquisite Gothic altarpieces. 

Make sure to also book a visit from the Tourist Office to the tower of Philippe le Bon. After climbing the 316 steps to the roof, you’ll be handsomely rewarded with the best views in all of Dijon.

Look out onto the expansive Liberation Square, the heart of Dijon, and plan your next stroll.

Liberation Square is actually in the shape of a half-circle and considered to be the historic centre of Dijon.

Lavish buildings, restaurants and gourmet shops surround the old place.

You’ll eventually venture out through one of its many archways but first stay a little while and sit at a restaurant to take in the view, the fountain, and the crowd strolling by.

Brasserie B9 is a good option for lunch and you’ll have prime spectator seats with your meal. 

The treasures of Dijon continue south of the square with the same impressive amount of beautiful churches, gardens, palaces, museums and gated town houses. 

If you find yourself hungry in these parts (or not in which case you should still stop and eat, it’s part of the visit), make your way to Le Petit Roi de la Lune, only two blocks south of Liberation Square.

It’s the definition of comfort with local wines and homemade food the likes of which you’d love to be able to get back home. Keep on checking things off the local food’s list by ordering the fried camembert, you won’t regret it. Deep fried French soft cheese with a salad. cooked pears and blackberry jelly…I’ve had worst! 

One more quick museum visit if you have time would be the Musée de la Vie Bourguignonne (Museum of Burgundian Life). Housed in the cloister of the former Bernardine convent, the museum offers a pretty good idea of everyday life in Dijon from the 18th to the 20th century.

Walk through an array of made-up rooms with household items, costumes and furniture recreating the local life from not too long ago.

There are many more museums, buildings, and churches to see with such a long history, though just walking aimlessly around is truly an ideal pastime in between the heavy meals that are central to any visit to Dijon. Look out for the numerous intimate parks and plazas, discover little cafes, and feel like a local for a while, it’s immensely pleasurable!

France isn’t shy of picturesque villages and exquisite regional delicacies and I’ve had the pleasure of sampling many, from a favorite summer escape in Provence to Mediterranean bliss on the Côte d’Azur and recently a bubbly sejour in Champagne. When the temperature drops though, I seek hearty cuisine and rustic countryside which can all be found in the heart of Burgundy. 

One of the oldest wine regions in France (it is believed that the area has produced wine since 300 AD), it has history at every turn and none of the stuffiness of more famous Bordeaux. Burgundy will charm you with its old ways, friendly farmers, and exceptional wine and food. Get your introduction in the walled town of Beaune, the epicenter of it all.

It’s picturesque, almost a little too much, with cobbled streets and shaded squares revealing obvious wealth and a sole common denominator – wine. 

Chic mansions, hotels, wine stores, tasting rooms and elegant restaurants in one compact city center has created one of the best places in all of France for wine tasting.

In between two glasses you can visit a handful of historical buildings though they won’t keep you busy for long – you’ll soon be back to swirling grape juice ad infinitum as you should.

Basilica Notre-Dame

Town Hall

Look for the easily missed tiny Passage Saint-Hélène right off  Place Carnot where you’ll find a lot of peace…

…and one of Beaune’s most popular restaurants: Ma Cuisine. A favorite of locals and ‘in-the-know’ visitors, the small restaurant is famous for its legendary wine list of over 850 and its great regional cuisine.

Foie gras (of course!)

The local specialty of Jambon persillé – ham hocks simmered in aligoté (white wine from Burgundy) which is then turned into a terrine with parsley. Sounds simple but this was amazing…

Beef carpaccio, although not a local specialty, scored high points and pairs so well with the local wine.

When you’re ready for a break from the wine and food, it’s time to pay a visit to the town’s true jewel: the magnificent Hôtel-Dieu.

It’s France’s most splendid medieval charity hospital and a symbol of the town’s history. For the past 150 years, it is also home to an annual charity wine auction known as Hospices de Beaune throughout the wine trade, an event that has since become an indicator of pricing trends for the current vintage. 

Now a museum, you’re able to stand in the impressive Salle des Malades – the hospital wards – where rows of enclosed wooden beds were used to heal the poor (some as late as the 1980s!).

The kitchen

But the most stunning feature of the hospital is without a doubt its extravagant roof with Burgundian glazed tiles.

It’s like nothing you’ve ever seen before and you’ll need some time to take it all in, from the geometric patterns to the colorful tiles.

Soon you will have seen pretty much everything there was to see in this charming little town and the good news is, there are tons of nearby villages that are waiting for you to explore. Beaune is literally in the center of the rolling hills of Burgundy which have given birth to some of the world’s most famous and expensive wines. Ever heard of Chablis or Nuits-St-Georges? Perhaps not if your paycheck isn’t close to that of a hedge fund manager, but it’s nevertheless thrilling to be standing in the middle of such prized vines.

Whether you opt to rent a car or take a bike tour like we did, you’ll love the scenery of undulating pretty towns and vines as far as the eye can see. 

Having a knowledgeable local guide is an obvious advantage though as there’s so much history you just wouldn’t get in a book. In between pedal strokes we’d learn about the Great French Wine Blight which had to be cured by planting American vines, immune to the pest.  And how the vines around us produced such different wines that a mere 10 feet of distance was enough to create an entirely new personality from the varied soil. 

Wherever you look you’ll see a calm and serene tableau of winemakers and farmers working the venerated soil.

You’ll also spot extremely old hideouts used to protect from sudden rain and store tools and equipment.

Superior wine comes from superior grapes and these beauties are surely some of the best looking I’ve seen.

Beaune wines have always been predominantly red and made from the flagship Pinot Noir…

…though lately there’s been a growing demand for Chardonnay so white is having a little moment!

Passing through villages you’ve seen on so many fancy labels is a treat, and of course they’re as enchanting as their names suggest. 

We made a stop in the scenic village of Volnay where there are nearly five times more wine labels as there are inhabitants so that gives you an idea..

Every house has its own operation with garages storing barrels, yard used for cleaning and basement for ageing. 

Next is the village of Pommard which rarely needs an introduction as it is considered the typical Bourgogne wine: deep red, powerfully aromatic, solid and trustworthy.

We dropped in at a small local producer and got to visit the family operations on site, barrels in the cave…

…and a well deserved tasting after a rainy ride! There are so many houses to choose from, you’ll either have to pick at random or go with a few names you’ve tried at home. Either way, you’ll no doubt leave with a few bottles and continue on to the next village or collapse at a local inn. The only drawback to visiting Burgundy is that you might return home slightly heavier and addicted to wine outside of your regular purchasing limits – you’ve been warned!