Europe Gibraltar Travels UK

The Rock of Gibraltar

March 3, 2015

Brits are known to flee their brutal weather at home for sunnier climes on the Mediterranean and are particularly fond of their little enclave of Gibraltar, a British Overseas Territory in the south of Spain. The Rock, as Gibraltar is known, whose impressive silhouette dominates the strait between Spain and Morocco, crams an extraordinary amount of history, culture, and nature into an area less than 6 square miles, making it an ideal short holiday destination.

Gibraltar is unique in many ways and  the first one you’ll notice right away as you literally have to walk across the runway (which also happens to be a public highway) to get into town.

Almost entirely surrounded by water except for the narrow strip linking it to mainland Spain, Gibraltar has vibrant marinas with plenty of restaurants to feast at and boat trips to go spot the wild dolphins that swim and feed in the strait.

Fresh seafood can be enjoyed at any one of the Mediterranean restaurants lining the marinas like this fish of the day at El Faro in Marina Bay.

Leaving the water behind, a quick stroll will bring you to the town center which you can access most directly by walking through the Grand Casemates Gates.

You’ll find yourself in the middle of the main tourist haunt of Casemates Square where everyone gathers at any of the various cafes during the day and come for the live entertainment in the evening.

Foodies will appreciate Gibraltar’s heritage of Moorish, Spanish and British rulers in sampling all kinds of different dishes within a few feet of each other, whether it’s the excellent fish & chips at Roy’s Cod Place…

…Spanish tapas at Cafe Solo or grabbing Moroccan sweets from a street cart.

Grand Casemates Square - Gibraltar

At the end of Casemates Square starts the focal point of town, Main Street, a pleasant and pedestrian stretch that first showcases the VAT-free shopping Gibraltar is known for (think plenty of jewelry, tobacco, and electronics shops) before getting quainter with colonial-style buildings as you go up.

Venture into intricate side streets and lanes for colorful Moorish decorations and a taste of the local life.

About halfway up Main Street you’ll find the beautiful Cathedral of St. Mary the Crowned.

The nearby John Mackintosh Square has been the centre of city life since the 14th century and is home to Gibraltar’s Parliament and City Hall.

When you’ll feel like resting your feet, make a stop at Gibraltar’s most famous coffee shop, Sacarello’s. The family-owned coffee roasting/restaurant business has been serving the locals for over 125 years from its location on Irish Town, a street buzzing with bars and restaurants that runs parallel to Main Street.

It’s famous for its coffee and breakfasts but also quite delectable at tea time with a variety of cakes on offer. I’ve indulged in a very British Victoria sponge cake for the occasion.

Towards the end of Main Street, shops make space for official buildings such as the Convent Place (the Governor’s residence) and more vestiges of an imperial past.

Continuing your route you’ll soon arrive on Grand Parade once Main Street ends and next to it the perfect excuse for a quiet afternoon stroll – the Alameda Gardens. Gibraltar’s Botanical Gardens boast flora and fauna from all over the world with the majestic Rock Hotel rising above.

While the town is cute and all, the real reason anyone should come to Gibraltar is to explore the rock itself which is a very unique treat for any nature enthusiast. There is a cable car right by the botanical gardens which is the most direct route to the top, but hiking through the nature reserve is truly the way to do it…

The stimulating walk takes in the unique vegetation and species of migrating birds…

…and that’s not mentioning the views which as you go up will only get better and better, showcasing that airport runway you just landed on recently and gorgeous southern Spain.

As you go up you’ll also encounter the rock’s most famous inhabitants – the Barbary Macaques – which act as true rulers of the territory. They’re mostly concentrated on the higher slopes though quite a few venture down as far as the lowest part of town.

There are a few worthwhile stops on your way up, fascinating remnants of Gibraltar as a strategic military base, such as the Moorish Castle and its Tower of Homage.

Even more fascinating are the Great Siege Tunnels which are arguably one of the most impressive defense systems anywhere. Hewn into the rock with only the aid of gunpowder and the simplest of tools, they total more than 30 miles in length and make for a pretty historical indoor hike.

Back out, make your way towards the center of the rock where the last stop of the cable car is for a nice view of the east side of Gibraltar. This is where vacationers soak up the sun on one of the beaches in the warmer months.

You have now officially entered monkey territory as they outnumber humans at this height and even have their own den where they get fed and looked after.

The tailless monkeys are the symbol of Gibraltar, having survived in the rocky wilderness for the best part of 1,000 years.

They are now Europe’s only colony of free-ranging primates and a favorite of visitors as far as capturing magical photos goes.

Obviously used to human presence, they’ll let you get real close though it is at your own risk… they won’t hesitate to grab your purse, food, shiny object or anything else they fancy and warning signs abound as to their occasional aggressive nature.

Lucky for me it was lunch time and they were way too busy munching on veggies to pay me much attention.

Food coma…?

After your thousandth monkey shot, it’s time to make your way back down as there is still more to see. A brief visit to St. Michael’s Cave is a must as it is one of Europe’s most dramatic natural grottoes.

Once fitted out as a hospital during WWII, it is now a unique natural auditorium with an ongoing light and sound display to astound visitors during the off hours.

Once you’ve made it all the way down the rock, head straight to Europa Point at the southernmost end of Gibraltar for its mosque…

…its lighthouse…

…and its superb vantage point across the strait to Morocco (evidently better on a clear day…!).

It was a lot of walking and chasing always better views for two days and there was no better ending than that terrace at the airport where you could only let the great limestone monolith fill your field of vision one last time…

2 Comments
Montreal Restaurants

Bouillon Bilk, Montreal

February 21, 2015

In a neighborhood as happening as the touristy Quartier des Spectacles, restaurants abound and this being Montreal your first random pick wouldn’t be terrible… but it could be so much better if only you knew about this nearby gem called Bouillon Bilk.

Located on a scruffy strip of The Main devoid of any restaurant near Chinatown, the absurd location will make you feel as if you’ve found a rare pearl, which isn’t far from the truth. The minimalist and chic bistro has been a critics’ favorite since it opened in 2011 and continues to impress with the uniqueness of each dish and the stunning presentation.

The menu showcases a seasonally inspired modern cuisine through a simple list of around 15 dishes split between appetizers, mains and desserts. The somewhat locavore restaurant pairs Quebec ingredients with exotic touches in unexpected and mouthwatering ways with plates just breathtaking – one look and you understand why it is one of the finest tables in the area.

This being Quebec, there is a focus on meat (rabbit, deer, duck, etc.) paired with savory dishes and the exquisite wait staff will expertly suggest wine pairings for each. Don’t skip the desserts either and go for the sweet brioche topped with, what else, foie gras! A very fine meal showing an incredible mastery and one of the best reasons to wander off the beaten path every once in a while…

Poached oyster, fermented beans, pickled daikon and ginger, scallions

Sea Bream sashimi, algae salad, mangoes

Hamachi, yuzu kosho, grapefruit, cucumber, fennel

Deer, sunchoke, quinoa, walnuts, matsutake, coffee-chocolate

Cappelletti, parsnip, lobster, chestnut, bacon, clementine

Cod, blood sausage sauce, hedgehog mushrooms

Sweet bun, raisins, chocolate, foie gras, peanuts

Macaroon & espresso

Bouillon Bilk
1595 Boul St-Laurent,
Montréal, QC
T: 1 514-845-1595
Map

 

London Restaurants

Mad Hatter’s Tea at Sanderson Hotel, London

February 13, 2015

Whenever you feel in need of a bit of whimsy in your life, head straight to the Sanderson Hotel in London where they literally have you ‘tumble down the rabbit hole’ into a world of fantasy for a few hours. Their Mad Hatter’s tea is one of the most eccentric afternoon tea experiences you could imagine filled with theatricals, bespoke crockery, and a fantastical feast.

Set in the zen courtyard of this five-star Philippe Starck-designed hotel, the fun begins as you receive the menu, hidden inside a vintage book, and as you unravel the riddle around your napkin… A magical music box containing a ballerina dancing on top of the sugar will serenade your table to the sound of ‘Somewhere Over The Rainbow’ as you slowly drift into this fantastical world they’ve created.

The whimsy continues with the custom designed crockery and tea service showing a variety of illustrations from clocks to birdcages and the Kings and Queens displayed on the teapots.

The first course to arrive are the sandwiches, honestly the least impressive part of meal, so take a quick bite of the Smoked Cumbrian ham with wholegrain mustard on sundried tomato bread, Cucumber and chive cream cheese on spinach bread, Cold smoked salmon and lemon butter on dark rye bread, and Egg mayonnaise with watercress and smoked sea salt on lemon bread before getting on with the sweet stuff, the real star of the show.

The highlight of any afternoon tea is the cake stand and this one does not disappoint. There are classic homemade savoury and sweet scones with herb butter and fruit preserves as well as light as air quiches on the first tray, though it’s the little apothecary bottles you’ll be reaching out for first. The tiny hand-written label spelling out ‘Drink me’ is enchanting, and so is the content as you sip through a mixture of passion fruit jelly and coconut panna cotta. You’re almost expecting to shrink to 10-inches high after drinking the potion…but sadly nothing happens!

The top is adorned with ‘strawberries and cream’ homemade marshmallow mushrooms and carrot meringues served on a bed of pea shoots.

Next comes the cakes in the shape of ‘Tick Tock’ traditional Victoria sponge clock and a melting mango cheesecake coated in white chocolate by which time you’ll be fully satiated…but don’t miss the cute chocolate teacup filled with matcha green tea and white chocolate mousse and topped with a flower candy.

Initially launched in conjunction with Tim Burton’s remake of Alice in Wonderland a few years ago, I’m glad this indulgent experience was such a hit that it stayed on and is now as popular as ever. I urge you to grab a few girlfriends now for a delightfully novel take on this most British of traditions.

Mad Hatter’s Tea at the Sanderson Hotel
Daily 12:30pm-5:30pm
50 Berners Street
London, W1T 3NG
T: 44 0 20 7300 1400
Map

2 Comments
Dessert Recipes

Chocolate Pots de Crème with Crispy Bacon and Smoked Salt

February 6, 2015

Remember that time when pairing bacon with chocolate would have seem ludicrous? Let’s just say the world is now a better place since the introduction of this perfect marriage of salty and sweet by Vosges Haut-Chocolat with their Mo’s Bacon Bar. The rest is history as they say and everyone can enjoy the flavorful union at home such as in these rich Chocolate Pots de Crème with Bacon.

If you’ve never had pots de crème, you’re in for a treat. The forgotten French classic is essentially a very rich, baked custard made from a mixture of milk, cream, egg yolk, sugar and chocolate…so yes, quite decadent and you’ll see that a little bit goes a long way! Although truly amazing on its own, paired with the crispy strip of smoky bacon here helps cut through the richness and proves that indeed, everything in life goes better with bacon!

Divider

Chocolate Pots de Crème with Crispy Bacon and Smoked Salt

 

Recipe from Elle a Table
Active time: 10 minutes
Total time: 2 hours
Makes 4 servings

225ml heavy cream
200g good dark chocolate, broken into pieces
2 egg yolks lightly beaten
4 slices of smoked bacon
Smoked Maldon sea salt

Divider

Heat the heavy cream without letting it boil and pour over the chocolate pieces.

Mix gently then add the egg yolks, stirring until completely incorporated.

Pour the chocolate mixture into little pots or ramekins of your choice and refrigerate for 2 hours.

Preheat the oven to 350ºF (180ºC) and grill the bacon until crispy. Let cool.

Serve the pots de crème with a bit of smoked sea salt sprinkled on top and the bacon to dip on the side.

[print_link]

2 Comments
Americas Tobago Travels

Birds and Beaches in Tobago

January 30, 2015

Tiny Tobago may be dwarfed in size by neighbouring Trinidad, but this idyllic island deserves the spotlight for its unmatched combination of natural wonders, immaculate beaches, and one of the last truly authentic Caribbean settlements. Ideal for a laid-back beach holiday, sleepy Tobago is where the hardest part of your vacation will be deciding which dreamy stretch of golden sand will be welcoming you for the day, offering a slice of solitude and beauty rarely seen together.

Most of the tourist developments are centered on the southwestern side of the island, near the airport, so you’ll want to head north for the enchanting coast dotted with small fishing villages and the thick rainforests filling the interior. The fishing village of Castara, about an hour drive north, is a favorite with its sublime beach framed by lush green hills.

There are a handful of simple guest accommodations in the village but you’ll want to stay at Castara Retreats for the exquisite views of Castara Bay and comfortable wooden lodges.

Set high above the beach, the breezy cottages feel like grown up treehouses with birds freely flying through the rooms and let’s not forget the views…

You’ll be able to feast your eyes on some of the most impressive birdlife in the Caribbean right on your balcony as colorful birds hang around the surrounding feeders and trees.

Hummingbirds are especially abundant and a spectacle to watch.

Bird 10

Bird 14

Other species often visit as well…

The sunsets in Castara are famous, and to think my own living room was the best place to enjoy them makes Castara Retreats a true marvel. Can’t beat sitting on the couch with the evening breeze and hummingbirds darting above our heads with that view…

The usually quiet beach gets a bump in activity towards the end of the day as fishermen comes back to shore with their catch. This is as authentic a fishing village as you can get.

Anyone is welcome to join in and help empty the nets as well as purchase the catch of the day which the local fishermen will be happy to clean for you. The rest will be sold to local restaurants and brought back home.

Any other time of day, you have the beach almost all to yourself save for the few tourists that have ventured out here. All there is to do is lay on the golden sand and soak up the sun, going for a dip in the emerald waters devoid of jet skis or surfboards, just gentle waves perfect for swimming and playing the soundtrack to the many naps you’ll indulge yourself in…it’s that kind of idle day here.

The ‘village center’ is about 2 minutes walk from the beach (yes, Castara is tiny with its roughly 400 inhabitants) and consists mainly of a few eateries and snack shops, of which the opening hours are entirely dependent on the staff and time of day. Your best bet is to wander around until you find something open or ask around, the friendly locals will point you in the right direction.

The most popular and reliable spot (at least in the morning) is Cheno’s Coffee Shop.

Right at the bend of the main road, Cheno’s is THE place for hearty breakfasts whether you crave an American one of eggs and bacon or the local salt fish and coconut bake as seen below which I highly recommend.

Cheno’s also hosts a popular BBQ on Saturday nights where the whole village meet to eat and dance the night away, feasting on the grilled catch of the day (delicious tuna here)…

…or curried chicken, all of them accompanied by a few rum punch to kick start the night. It’s a great social gathering with live local music and a true feel for life in Castara.

Another locals’s favorite is Marguerite’s, literally opposite from Cheno’s and only open for dinner when I was there.

Her curry goat should be on your list when you visit as it is just spectacular!

Sherma’s Bar, up the road from Marguerite’s, is where you can get filling plates of pork and dumplings with plantains to takeaway to the beach or back to your room.

Besides the beach, if you want to stretch your legs a bit there is an easy walk to a waterfall that you can reach in less than 15 minutes. Simply cross the soccer field behind Cheno’s…

… and follow the stream into the rainforest, passing myriads of lizards, frogs and birds and no human in sight unless you go early morning when locals bathe.

You’ll soon reach a beautiful waterfall that cascades into a rock pool surrounded by hanging lianas, the perfect setting for a refreshing break.

Honestly, simply staying in Castara is a totally viable option as it’s by far the most charming place on the island with the best beach and everything you would need for a few days of relaxation, but if exploring is in the cards, there is a lot more to see in Tobago to make your holidays even more memorable. Pristine beaches are hiding in almost every coves so driving around will have you hit a paradisal spot in less than 20 minutes like Englishman’s Bay, just north of Castara.

This quiet and secluded beach is so picture perfect you’ll be as shocked as I was to find it nearly empty which is the real beauty of Tobago.

A backdrop of rainforest and clear, emerald-green sea is resemblant of my memories of Treasure Island and it felt almost surreal to be alone with a few swaying sailboats in the bay – just wow!

To make it even better, you don’t even need to pack a lunch thanks to Eula’s restaurant, a great little spot right on the beach serving local fares.

The rotis are especially scrumptious and a common sight in Tobago with its mishmash of cultures from Africa, India, Europe, Chinese and the Middle East.

The next bay north is Parlatuvier Bay, another secluded beach and fishing village to add to your choices of quiet day breaks.

As much as the coast is gorgeous, you really shouldn’t miss the rugged interior covered with thick rainforests. Tobago is home to the oldest nature reserve in the western hemisphere, Main Ridge, and there are quite a few scenic trails you can take to fully appreciate the enormous amount of biodiversity on the small island.

The island is home to over 200 species of birds so it’s a real paradise for twitchers and newbies alike. Newton George offers guided tours around the island and is an expert at spotting the tiniest feather among the leaves.

No matter how active or lazy your day was though, getting back to Castara in time for sunset is the only thing that truly matters…

1 Comment