Whether you fly or drive to get into Puglia, the one sight you’re most likely to notice besides the multitude of twisted olive trees filling the landscape is the iconic trullo. The unique conical constructions have become an emblem of Puglia and some of the most popular tourist attractions in southeast Italy.

These fascinating buildings are scattered throughout the region though nowhere are they as spectacularly laid out as in Alberobello. The quaint town was designated a Unesco World Heritage Site for its wonderfully unique cluster of trulli houses, making you feel as if you’ve just stumbled upon a Hobbit village.

Facing the modern town centre, Rione Monti is the most picturesque district of the town from both afar and close up where a majority of the 1,000+ trulli can be seen.

Of course, it’s also very touristy and has given this part of town many references to Disneyland though you’ll still find wandering around the narrow lanes sloping upwards to be rather enchanting.

Take an empty side street to have a closer look at these exceptional houses, a building technique that has survived since prehistoric times. While each trullo here is of a different shape and size, they all share the same white walls and grey cone-shaped roofs.

Many are still lived in, creating a warm and authentic atmosphere, and quite a few have been turned into guest houses so you get the chance to experience life in a trullo.

Others are not so well kept though are a testament to the strength of the constructions, some dating back to the 16th century.

The trullo shaped church of Saint Anthony.

I have to say the roofs were probably my favorite thing to photograph, an aesthetic not often found in such quantity!

Many of the roofs have white symbols painted on them, usually Christian or astronomical symbols for luck.

The modern side of Alberobello is also worth a stroll with some beautifully preserved buildings and a few surprising trulli popping up in random places.

Back on the road, there are still plenty of trulli to look at, sometimes in their most basic form being currently used as shed among the olive groves.

Others have been restored with great taste and we couldn’t pass on the opportunity to live in one for a few days…

I found this gorgeous 3 bedrooms trullo on AirBnB with huge garden and outdoor pool, definitely restored with a few extra amenities!

The view from the roof let us take in the valley with scattered trulli, olive groves and farmhouses.

Apéritif by the pool with some local spumante.

And let’s not forget the Caciocavallo, a traditional, stretched curd cheese available everywhere in the region (and scrumptious on its own or topping just about anything…).

Typical mornings here start with a good cappuccino and a selection of pastries, usually filled with chocolate, jam or lemon cream.

Regardless of where you based yourself in the Valle d’Itria, the surrounding country roads will be filled with stunning discoveries all worth making a stop on the side to admire either a gorgeous villa or postcard perfect landscape.

There are quite a few historic towns around that make for a wonderful half-day of wandering and eating, and one you mustn’t miss is Locorotondo. It has been named one of the most beautiful villages of Italy and its calm and easily walkable centre makes for a memorable afternoon.

Church of the Madonna della Greca, the oldest church in Locorotondo

Even though it’s just 8km down the road from Alberobello, there are no trulli here but plenty of cummerse, narrow rectangular town houses with pointed roofs. The quiet pedestrian historical centre oozes charm with its shimmering white walls and the occasional burst of color from red geraniums hanging down the wrought iron balconies.

Even the street signs are extraordinarily beautiful.

Another reason alone to visit Locorotondo is to eat at Bina, a stunning restaurant serving Pugliese cuisine with a modern touch.

The all-white interior is refined and welcoming with a wealth of personal touches such as local ceramics and vintage books making you feel like you’re eating in the house of a very stylish friend.

Locorotondo being at the heart of the Puglian wine region, it’s the perfect excuse to settle down for a few hours and sample some fine local bottles such as a good Negroamaro, accompanied by even finer cuisine.

It’s true that it’s difficult to eat badly in Puglia though Bina is a cut above and we were wowed by everything from the freshness of the local ingredients to the lightness of touch which seemed to permeate the entire meal, leaving us perfectly satisfied and not at all stuffy.

Homemade bread & taralli

Local olives

Local cheese plate (caciocavallo podolico, pecorino canestrato, burratina, ricottina)

Homemade capocollo

Fried bread with cheese balls

Local cucumber to aid digestion between courses

Small Vegetarian Courgette Millefogie with smoked provola on a coulis of tomatoes flavored with basil

Handmade Egg Spaghetti with a cream of cow milk’s ricotta, strips of sun-dried tomatoes and wild chicory

Homemade Spaghetti with string beans, pendulo tomatoes and cacioricotta from Valle D’Itria

Free-range Rabbit flavoured with herbs and potatoes with rosemary

Ricotta Tart

Besides staying in a trullo, the other tempting option in the region for those who can afford it is to stay in one of the many Masseria (fortified farmhouses) in the countryside. Although they sound rustic, the farmhouses in these parts are some of the most elegant I’ve seen and resemble more a fancy country estate.

16^th-century Masseria Torre Maizza is a luxurious accommodation near Fasano and one of the most sought-after on this stretch of Puglian coast. Centred on a white-washed watchtower, it rises out of fragrant gardens which provide a lot of the ingredients to the main restaurant, Le Palme. Although not spending the night here, we could enjoy a luxurious dinner set in the ancient stables…

The cuisine is Pugliese with Asian influences and the restaurant proudly operates a ‘mile zero’ policy, in which regional producers provide all the ingredients. Although not as delicious or memorable as Bina (in Locorotondo), the food was elegant and well-prepared. I just feel it’s not really worth splurging in a 5 star restaurant when the region prides itself on ‘poor & peasant food’ and does brilliantly at it!

Apulian salami selection and buffalo mozzarella cheese

Caprese salad

Courgettes millefeuille on caciocavallo cheese fondue and chips

Gilthead roulade with crispy vegetables on courgettes and mint sauce with herbs croutons

Smoked beef carpaccio with vegetables, “primo sale” morsels and balsamic vinegar

Scallops in “taralli” crust with chicory hearts and bacon salad on ginger flavoured carrots coulis

Swordfish dice and tarragon marinated prawns with chicory hearts salad on spinach and buffalo mozzarella cheese sauce

Our last meal before leaving the valley had to be in the white city of Ostuni at the end of the trulli region. Unmissable from its location atop a hill, the chic town has excellent restaurants and pearly white streets perfect for an evening stroll.

Opposite the magnificent cathedral is where you can find Osteria Piazetta Cattedrale, a gem of a restaurant serving creative takes on Puglian cuisine in an elegant home setting.

Bread service White fish croquettes with thyme and spicy sauce Stuffed eggplants Zucchini and pumpkin flan with fresh tomato and cream sauce Fish of the day Grilled lamb chops with caponata Warm sfogliatine with vanilla custard Warm grandmother’s cake with hazelnut ice cream Semifreddo with pine nuts on a coffee and whiskey sauce

While no longer as ‘undiscovered’ as it was just a few years ago, Italy’s southern region of Puglia still feels rather untouched with its superb beaches, rocky coastline, and wonderfully preserved old towns. Making up the heel of Italy, Puglia (or Apulia) is exceptionally sun-soaked and dry and is an ideal holiday road trip with plenty of stunning sightseeing and some of the best food and wine in the country.

Starting from the north and driving down the coast, the first town worth stopping by is Trani, known as the ‘Pearl of Puglia’.

The beautiful stone-built port and fishing village was once one of the most important medieval Italian ports and a prosperous trading centre.

One of the numerous castles dotting the coast stands at the end of the harbour, hinting at the threats that must have been coming frequently from the Adriatic sea.

Trani’s true landmark though is its splendid 11th century cathedral, right on the sea at the edge of the old town. The cream-coloured three stacked churches are a stunning sight against the blue sky and sea.

Dedicated to San Nicola Pellegrino, it is one of the most beautiful examples of Romanesque architecture in the region with the austere facade, pretty rose window and slender bell tower soaring into the sky.

Wandering through the streets around the harbour gives a good impression of the medieval city, looking unusually sophisticated thanks to the use of the local limestone of a warm golden white.

Despite the slight drizzle, it was a delight to walk the paved, narrow roads of the very well maintained historical centre, catching glimpse of the fishing life as well as private palaces from centuries ago.

For a bite, pick any of the small restaurants along the harbour front where you can enjoy fresh fish caught locally and delicious wine from a few miles away.

Fresh fish served raw with only a drizzle of green olive oil is a delight and a specialty of the coast.

Tuna tartare

Octopus

Pizza bianca

Mushroom souffle

Further down the coast, another fishing village worth a stop is Monopoli.

Here again you should head straight to the small port, picturesque though smaller than Trani’s, with a handful of fishing boats and fishermen untangling their nets.

An imposing 16th-century castle sits between the port and the start of the old town.

There’s not a ton to see in Monopoli but you could easily spend a few hours wandering through the centro storico as well as outside its fortified walls.

The village was first established by the Greeks before falling under Venetian control which will explain a lot of the architecture and the stark white and blue colors that make the old town so strikingly beautiful.

Flowers and all sorts of greenery abound at every corner.

You’ll stumble upon quite a few churches, their spire peeking out from narrow alleyways wherever you look.

They contrast beautifully with neighboring white buildings, showing how old the town truly is.

The imposing Baroque cathedral would be hard to miss and can be seen from almost any vantage point.

Finish your visit by stepping outside the old city walls and witnessing one of Monopoli’s real draw – the hordes of locals taking up any rock or bit of sand to sun themselves on the city beach…

If you want a proper beach though, just head a bit further south and suddenly you’ll see the coast changing from rocky to wild, passing innumerable sandy beaches with parked cars and BBQ, and even more beach clubs offering all the services you could ever want.

We decided to stop at Lido Bosco Verde which not only offers a nice stretch of sandy beach, a few bars, and main facilities, but also an excellent fish restaurant since a day at the beach without an epic lunch would hardly be worth it…wouldn’t it?

Take a seat on the terrace shaded with olive trees and don’t forget to take a look at the daily catch on offer, can’t do any fresher than this! Whether you opt to have one of these beauties simply prepared or dig through the menu of contemporary though unfussy take on Puglia’s traditional specialties, this is an excellent way to spend a few hours and finish your day on the coast.

Complimentary tuna tapenade

Local oysters

Salmon carpaccio

Fried octopus croquettes

Fried calamari

Spaghetti alle vongole

Pasta with tomato sauce

Capunti with prawns, cream zucchini, and mint

Pacheri with fish

The mountainous isle of Capri is a top rated holiday destination for worldwide travelers and few islands can rival with its glamorous image. Most arrive from Naples or Sorrento by ferry with either a few hours or a few days to spend in this enchanting destination whose impressive limestone rock soars from the Tyrrhenian Sea.

Famed for its unparalleled scenery and sea views, Capri is all about heights as you’ll notice as soon as you reach the harbor.

All ferries arrive at the port of Marina Grande which is usually overrun by daytrippers (more than 20,000 on average in the high season!). With its tacky souvenir shops and cheap restaurants with touristy menus, this is not the Capri you came to see and you should start making your way up now.

The island really has two communities so you have your pick of starting your day either in Capri town for expensive shopping or Anacapri for a quieter morning. We hopped on the bus to the latter which is situated on a plateau above Capri. From there you can take the chairlift up to the top of Monte Solaro, the highest point of Capri.

The 12-minute ride up offers plenty of panoramic photo opportunities and confirmation of the island’s scenic charm.

Once at the summit, you get a good view of Capri’s wilder side and natural beauty.

Giant cliffs hide secret coves and sea caves, tiny rocky beaches are only accessible by boats, villas peak out from underneath the luxurious foliage, and then there’s the bluest of sea… No wonder this is a dream honeymoon destination.

You can opt to walk down or take the chairlift again back to Anacapri which has a quaint little old center. Take some time to wander around a few historical buildings such as the cathedral and a number of imperial roman villas worth checking out before venturing into the slightly crazier part of the island.

View from Anacapri of Marina Grande and the surroundings of Capri

You can take a public bus to get to the center of Capri town but the ‘proper’ way to experience the island is to hail one of the iconic convertible taxis, put on your sunglasses and let your hair loose in the breeze feeling every little bit like Jacky O in the 1950s. While it sits lower than Anacapri, the town of Capri still offers breathtaking views especially along its circular path which goes up and around the south side of the island.

Most of Capri town is only accessible by foot so wear comfortable shoes and be ready for a bit of a hike as you explore the narrow lanes, passing magnificent villas and gardens fit for celebrities.

Heading uphill from Capri town towards the Arco Naturale (signposted) will lead you straight to the off-the-beaten path and must-try restaurant Le Grottelle.

The views alone from the terrace are worth the little trek to get there and while you won’t feast on fancy, Michelin star grub, the simple and authentic food served here is the perfect accompaniment to the impressive scenery.

Simple dishes such as a tomato salad are something else with the island’s sun-ripened tomatoes and the peppery basil that grows on its terraces.

Spaghetti with tomato and basil

Fried antipasto

Grilled shrimps

Walking back down towards the old center of Capri, you’ll soon discover what has made the island such a hit with the shopaholics and well-heeled of society as you passed by myriads of fancy designer boutiques and high-end restaurants. The maze of narrow lanes is often overcrowded during the day so this is where it pays to be an overnighter as you’ll have them ‘practically’ all to yourself in the evenings when the crowds have gone.

Almost every lane will lead you straight to Capri’s most famous square, Piazza Umberto I, more commonly known simply as the Piazzetta. It is the center of the island’s social life and a perfect place to sit back and relax at one of the four bars, glancing up to admire the surrounding monuments such as the clock tower and cathedral, but mostly just enjoying the people-watching opportunities in what people refers to as the ‘world’s little theatre’.

You shouldn’t leave without a taste of the local specialty, the torta Caprese, a flourless, chocolate-almond torte which originated here on the island, simply sublime. I have a recipe here if you can’t make it to Capri!

Just steps from the Piazzetta is the funicular, a scenic way to go down to Marina Grande where you’ll be catching the ferry back. One last food stop for the ride – lemon gelato, a refreshing local flavor…

A short day trip was enough to get a glimpse of Capri and its beauty albeit a pretty commercialized and touristy one. The island has a lot more serene spots and remote paradises if you extend your trip for a few days and take a walk along the numerous footpaths leading to the secret coves we could see from above. A revoir….