Blog - Flying Fourchette

Spaghetti alle Vongole

June 23, 2013

Pasta dinners are an easy go-to option year-round but when summertime comes, I want none of the heavy sauces and especially nothing canned in mine. One of my favorite ways to recreate an Italian summer’s evening at home is to go back to the classics like Spaghetti alle Vongole which truly emphasizes the ‘less is more’ approach. It’s one of the lightest pasta dish I know, one of the easiest as well, and with only a few simple ingredients you’ll be tasting the Mediterranean Sea in no time!

Like most of the classic pasta dishes, there are a lot of versions out there for Spaghetti alle Vongole though I’m definitely a fan of the one called ‘in bianco’, meaning no tomatoes are added. I have nothing against tomatoes per se but here all I want is to taste the perfect balance of plump briny clams, white wine, lots of garlic and spicy red chili flakes. As with any simple dish, quality ingredients are key so get the best fresh clams you can find and open a nice bottle of wine.

Spaghetti alle Vongole

Recipe from The New Brooklyn Cookbook
Active time: 35 minutes
Total time: 45 minutes
Makes 4 servings

2 dozen Manila or Littleneck clams
Coarse salt
12oz spaghetti
½ cup extra-virgin olive oil
1 large shallot, finely diced
4 tablespoons finely chopped garlic
1 teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes
1 tablespoon dried oregano
1 cup dry white wine
2 tablespoons chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley
Freshly ground black pepper

Fill a large bowl with salted water. Add the clams and soak for 10 minutes. Drain, then scrub the clams with a brush to remove any remaining grit.

Discard any clams that have broken, cracked, or open shells that do not close when tapped firmly.

Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Add the spaghetti and cook until just al dente, about 9 minutes.

Heat the olive oil in a 12-inch sauté pan. Add the shallots, garlic, red pepper flakes, and oregano.

Sauté until the garlic is just beginning to turn a light golden brown and the mixture is very aromatic, about 2 minutes. Add the clams to the pan and mix well.

Add the wine and cook over high heat until the clams begin to open, shaking the pan occasionally to cook the clams evenly. As each clam starts to open, transfer it to a large plate, leaving the liquid in the pan; the clams will finish opening and won’t be overcooked. Discard any clams that do not open. Bring the pan liquid to a boil over high heat and cook until reduced by half. The sauce should be reduced enough to cling to the pasta, with a little extra for mopping up with bread.

Drain the pasta and add it to the reduced liquid. Top it with the reserved clams and the parsley and season with salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste. Toss well, then divide among 4 plates and serve immediately.

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London Restaurants

Medlar, London

June 19, 2013

Getting to Medlar is a bit of an undertaking. Not because it’s down a tiny unknown alley far from civilization, but because it’s right on King’s Road in Chelsea, just not the part you’d usually venture to. We walked right past it in the pouring rain without ever noticing it was there since the area is deserted of any fine dining establishments (which abound a mile further east on the same road).

Nevertheless, my soaked self was glad to finally find the recently awarded Michelin restaurant and its elegant ambiance, ready to impress us with their inventive creations. Medlar quietly appeared on the London food scene a little over two years ago yet very few people seem to know its existence – I reckon the Michelin recognition will soon change that. The uber positive reviews highlight the flawless execution of the dishes, excellent service and incredible value for such an elevated meal which I can wholeheartedly vouch for. The menu is Prix Fixe only with lunch going for £26 during weekdays and £30 in the weekends and dinner for £42 (all 3-course) and the portions are quite generous which makes it an incredible deal.

The cooking at Medlar is classic French with modern British flair which means it’s hearty and immaculately presented. The constantly changing menu keeps pushing a bit further their creativity so it’s a place you’ll want to revisit again and again to see what they’ve come up with. One of their most popular dish – an egg tart with duck hearts – has been featured on quite a few of London’s ‘best dish lists’ and is likely to be on the menu when you go though the overwhelming choice of their appetizers alone will leave you panting in indecisiveness. Whatever you pick will make you feel special somehow, and pretty full by the end of it!

Thinly sliced confit lamb with salsa verde, artichokes, green beans and frisée

Duck egg tart with red wine sauce, turnip puree, lardons and sautéed duck heart

Under blade fillet with Café de Paris snails, salad, triple cooked chips and béarnaise

Chargrilled red mullet with San Marzano tomato tart fine, smoked mackerel, aubergine caviar and salmoriglio

Cardamom custard with saffron oranges, pomegranate and langues de chat

Raspberry sorbet with white chocolate and macadamia cookies

Rhubarb and prosecco jelly with ginger granita and blood orange sorbet

If you can manage any more food or wish to trade in one of your desserts for a supplement, the cheeseboard is out of this world and will remind you of fancy restaurants in France – we didn’t get that far unfortunately but our neighbors did!

Medlar
438 King’s Road,
London. SW10 0LJ
T: 0207 349 1900
map

Appetizer Recipes Vegetarian

Fennel Salad with Strawberries and Feta

June 15, 2013

One of the great things about early summer days is the immediate effect the warmer weather has on our diet – an intrinsic need to cleanse and detox our bodies. Seeing all the gorgeous and colorful new produce at the farmers markets makes us yearn for crisp salads and sweet, juicy fruits which there seem to be infinite variations of. June is especially abundant with short lived favorites such as rhubarb, asparagus, and insanely flavorful strawberries and you should make the most of them right about now.

Strawberries are on most people’s favorite fruit list and this time of year you really don’t need anything else to enjoy them fully since they’re so sweet. I like them so much I keep on trying to incorporate them into every meal which is why I thought that Fennel, Strawberry and Feta Salad was perfectly suited. It’s a lovely summer salad and although I know some of you reject the thought of any fruit near your greens, I can tell you this refreshing and seasonal version is the best way to jump in.

The crunch of the thinly shaved fennel, the softness of the strawberries and the salty Feta cheese are full of unexpected flavors and textures and make one of those sweet savory combos that barely needs any dressing. A few drops of a fresh raspberry vinaigrette is all you need to round it up and produce a real feast for the eyes as much as for the palate.

Fennel Salad with Strawberries and Feta

Recipe fromLa diète Scandinave
Active time: 20 minutes
Total time: 50 minutes
Makes 4 servings

1 fennel bulb
¾ cup strawberries
¾ cup feta cheese
½ cup raspberries
2 tablespoons raspberry vinegar

Thinly slice the fennel with a mandoline. Soak the slices in a bowl of cold water for 30 minutes to let them curl slightly. Drain them well.

Cut strawberries in half (or slice them if they’re big) and mix them carefully with the fennel. Make the dressing by mixing well the raspberries with the vinegar.

Place the salad on plates, crumble the feta over it and drizzle with the dressing.

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London Restaurants

Upstairs at The Ten Bells, London

June 10, 2013

The Ten Bells in East London no longer needs an introduction as the crowds spilling onto the sidewalk every night can attest. The busy pub opposite Spitalfields Market has attracted thirsty shoppers and locals since the mid 18^th century with its unique Victorian décor and strong ties with ‘Jack the Riper’ who supposedly met two of his victims here. Whether you like your booze with a dark side of history or appreciate a lively ambiance, it’s an authentic stop in an ever so hip neighborhood.

What a lot of these boozers don’t know though is the treasure that hides right above their head. I’m talking about The Ten Bells’ first floor restaurant, aptly named ‘Upstairs at The Ten Bells’, which is currently one of the best gastro pubs in the city. Once you’ve climbed up the staircase at the back of the pub, you’ll find yourself in a most charming Victorian dining room filled with mismatched rustic wood tables, chandeliers, and…some pretty funny work of art.

What used to be only a temporary pop-up restaurant by a collective of chefs called the Young Turks became so popular it is now a permanent fixture. Although the majority of the original founders have gone, the kitchen is still churning out stunning dishes to everyone’s delight with tables booked well in advance. A meal here is an elegant affair in a chilled setting, much like at another favorite of mine, the Corner Room, and you’ll find an incredible value for money especially in this neighborhood. Evenings are adorned by candlelight and the list of expertly crafted cocktails begs you to start and end your night with one of their tasty concoctions.

While I rarely deem a bread basket worth mentioning, here you’re welcomed as soon as you sit down with a few slices of home made and still warm bread which I still remember today… definitely an excellent start to the night.

The menu changes weekly and features creative British seasonal fare which has hit the right notes throughout the whole meal. The winners were the breaded aubergine (offered as a snack) and the roasted leg of lamb…which probably won’t be offered when you go but you’ll have something equally delish!

Fried Cuttlefish, Jersey Royals, Red Peppers and Lovage

Breaded Aubergine, Sweet and Sour Caper, Walnut & Parmesan

Roasted Leg of Lamb, Cockles, Artichokes, Confit Tomatoes & Laverbread

Porchetta, Fregola Sarda, Peas, Gem Lettuce & Roast Onion

Cheesecake, Peanut Crumble & Loquats

Upstairs at The Ten Bells
84 Commercial St,
London
T: +44 20 7366 1721
map

Dessert Recipes

Mille-Feuille

June 6, 2013

French pastries are undeniably elegant and salivating though often off limit for unseasoned bakers. Finding one you can enjoy with little effort at home like this mille-feuille is therefore a real treat …and potentially dangerous for your waistline! While you might know it better under its other name of ‘Napoleon’, the mille-feuille (which translates into ‘thousand leaves’) is a fairly popular dessert consisting of 3 layers of puff pastry separated by layers of cream or jam.

You’ve probably had various renditions from the soft and super sweet store bought varieties to fancy specimen at restaurants but let me tell you that the homemade version is pretty terrific. Freshness is key to getting that perfect contrast between the crispy pastry layers and soft custard filling so you’ll want to eat it straight away which I don’t think anyone will have a problem with!

For the pastry, if you have a lot of time on your hands you can always do it yourself (there are tons of puff pastry recipes on the web) but honestly the store-bought variety will do just fine here and will make this dessert as easy as can be. A few simple steps of baking the pastry, preparing the vanilla cream, and mounting it all are incredibly easy and quite enjoyable so you definitely won’t feel as if you’re slaving in the kitchen. Once you’ve gotten your 3 rectangles of pastry layered with the thick custard, just dust the top with powdered sugar for a simple but sophisticated dessert. There’s no need for the familiar marbled icing here especially in the summer and you’ll appreciate even more each bites of buttery flakes mixed with cool custard…

Mille-Feuille

Recipe from Elle a Table
Active time: 35 minutes
Total time: 1h15
Makes 4-6 servings

200g puff pastry dough
100g powdered sugar
1 cup whole milk
80g sugar
20g all purpose flour
2 egg yolks
1 tablespoon cornstarch

Generously dust the work surface with powdered sugar. Lay the dough on top and cover with more powdered sugar. Roll the dough into a thin rectangle (about ¼ inch).

Lay the dough over a sheet of wax or parchment paper in a baking sheet and cover with another sheet of paper. Put a grill over it to weight it down (I use a cooling rack grill) and put in a preheated oven at 350ºF for 20 minutes.

Meanwhile, get the vanilla cream ready: whisk the egg yolks with the sugar until light in color, then add the flour and cornstarch (and any flavoring you’d like such as cacao, liquors, etc.). Bring the milk to a boil in a small saucepan and pour over the yolk and sugar mixture. Mix well. Pour back the mixture in the saucepan and heat over low heat for 8 minutes while stirring constantly.

Take the dough out of the oven and let it cool down. Cut the uneven sides with a serrated knife to make your rectangle ‘straight’ then cut the dough into 3 equal parts.