Blog - Flying Fourchette

Fennel and Orange Salad

March 30, 2012

A winter salad of fennel and oranges is the perfect pick-me-up during those last few remaining cold days before spring finally settles in. Take advantage of the abundance of bright citrus available to put together this beautiful salad, a nod to the sunny days ahead.

Another underrated vegetable (almost as much as my dear celeriac), fennel is wonderfully crunchy and has an appealing anise flavor. It really shines when combined with oranges, mixing here the crunchy-tart of the fennel with the juicy-sweetness of the oranges into a vibrant and refreshing salad. You can substitute any kind of oranges here to play it up, whether it’s California Navels, pink-fleshed Cara Caras or blood oranges.

The key to this salad is slicing the fennel very thin (use a mandolin for best results) so it really picks up the dressing and has a crunchy yet delicate texture. Keep the fennel fronds and the leaves on the stalks of the fennel also as they add flavor and make a beautiful garnish. This salad can be served with some crusty bread as a light meal or alongside grilled salmon or scallops.

Fennel and Orange Salad

Adapted from Cooking at Home with the Culinary Institute of America

Active time: 20 minutes

Total time: 20 minutes

Makes 6 servings

2 fennel bulbs, trimmed and cored

2 oranges

1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice

3 tablespoons olive oil

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

½ cup chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley

Thinly slice the fennel bulbs with a sharp knife or a mandoline.

Cut the skin from the oranges and cut the oranges into crosswise slices.

Whisk the lemon juice, olive oil, and salt and pepper to taste to make a vinaigrette. Reserve 2 tablespoons of the parlsey for garnish. Put the fennel and remaining parsley in a bowl and toss with 3 tablespoons of the vinaigrette.

Season the orange slices with salt and pepper. Drizzle them with the remaining vinaigrette.

Arrange the fennel and orange slices on chilled plates and garnish with the reserved parsley.

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Main course Recipes

Roast Salmon with Whole-Grain-Mustard Crust

March 26, 2012

Putting together a quick and healthy meal on a weeknight is something most of us struggle to do on a regular basis. Whenever someone would ask me what’s my go-to, quick, easy and foolproof dish, I inevitably answer ‘salmon’! There’s just no other contender in my mind for a tasty meal that would only require about 5 minutes of prep time and be guaranteed to taste great no matter how skillful you are in the kitchen. Whether you go super basic with just a squeeze of lemon or decide to be creative and sprinkle a few of the herbs stashed in your pantry, roast salmon is simply impossible to mess up.

Now if you’re looking to go beyond the lemon-herbs combo, I highly recommend you start throwing some mustard into the mix. After giving a try to this Roast Salmon with Whole-Grain-Mustard Crust recipe, I doubt I’ll go back to the standard fare, except perhaps during the summer heat. A cinch to throw together, the mustard crust is truly spectacular and I’m still amazed at how well it pairs with the salmon, not overpowering it as I would have expected but wonderfully matching its intense flavor. I served it with some Brussels sprout leaves lightly sautéed in olive oil and lemon juice for a light meal though it would go well with roasted potatoes as well. All in all, a great weeknight meal that’s healthy and elegant, and ready in less than 20 minutes.

Roast Salmon with Whole-Grain-Mustard Crust

Adapted from Food and Wine Magazine (Feb 2012)

Active time: 10 minutes

Total time: 20 minutes

Makes 4 servings

1/4 cup whole-grain mustard
1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil
1 1/2 tablespoons minced chives
Four 8-ounce skin-on wild salmon fillets
Salt and freshly ground pepper

Preheat the oven to 400° and line a rimmed baking sheet with aluminum foil. In a small bowl, stir together the mustard, olive oil and chives.

Season the salmon fillets with salt and pepper and place them skin side down on the prepared baking sheet. Spread the mustard mixture over the tops of the fillets.

Roast the fish for 6 minutes. Preheat the broiler. Broil the salmon 6 inches from the heat for about 4 minutes, until the mustard crust is browned and the salmon is almost cooked through.

Using a spatula, carefully slide the salmon fillets off their skins and transfer to plates. Serve immediately with sautéed Brussels sprout leaves.

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New York Restaurants

Annisa, New York

March 21, 2012

It’s hard to get a reservation at Annisa. It might take you weeks, possibly even months but it’s all going to be worth it in the end when you finally sit down and enjoy Chef Lo’s exquisite creations. One of the most respected chefs in the country, Anita Lo opened Annisa back in 2000 and it is still today one of New York City’s top restaurants.

The dishes are highly refined and unlike anything you’ll find in the city. Each of them combine Chef Lo’s Asian roots, numerous travels abroad and her classic French technique into something truly special and quite inimitable. Exotic and hard to find ingredients impart new and exciting flavors without screaming ‘extreme fusion’, so delicately sneaked in they contribute in big part to the magic of Lo’s haute cuisine.

I had done my research as always and opted with my friend to mix up a few of her famous signature dishes with some new creations. Everything we ate was delightful but I must say Lo’s foie gras soup dumplings and miso-marinated filet of sable were the big hits as they’ve been for years, and rightfully so. You can either order a la carte, which is what we did, or go with one of the well priced tasting menu – $75 five course or $95 seven course.

An amuse-bouche of salmon mousse

Ceviche of Fluke with black lime and radishes

Seared Foie Gras with Soup Dumplings and Jicama – can it get better than this?

Miso Marinated Sable with Crispy Silken Tofu in a Bonito Broth

Rabbit with Red Scallions and Japanese Curry served two ways: fried and sliced like Japanese katsu and mirrored by a rolled-up rabbit loin.

Poppyseed Bread and Butter Pudding with Meyer Lemon Curd

Unlike the food which is bright and powerful, the restaurant has a soft and supple aspect with gently swaying curtains and muted cream decor. It encourages calm conversations, most likely spent talking about how wonderful the meal is, and intimate rendez-vous with serious foodies.

Annisa is quite small (hence the difficulty in getting a reservation!) and the perfect place for a civilized dinner date, gazing out onto picturesque Barrow Street in the West Village. Make sure you plan ahead and invite your favorite gourmands and relatives for a special occasion. You’ll definitely find me coming back, I’ve officially joined the ranks of Anita Lo’s giant fan base.

Annisa

13 Barrow Street (at W. Fourth Street)

New York, NY

T: (212) 741-6699

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Breakfast / Brunch Recipes Side dish Vegetarian

Potato-Chive Pancakes

March 17, 2012

A classic of the Hanukkah table, crisp potato pancakes, a.k.a. latkes, should not be relegated to being eaten solely during the holiday. So simple to make, I see them as my way of recreating from scratch the frozen hash browns of my youth in my quest to eliminate all prepared food from my diet.

I usually eat them for breakfast but they’re also a fine accompaniment for chicken dishes and sausages, or just as a simple snack on their own. Potato pancakes also lend themselves really well to all kinds of variations – I love to mix regular and sweet potatoes together, add a few different herbs of whatever I have on hand that day, could even spice things up with hot peppers or sauce. In the end, what we’re really looking for is the golden crunch on the outside and tender moist potato filling inside for a simple comfort food feeling in every bite… This recipe does a pretty good job of delivering the desired texture and is basic to allow you to add on your favorite bits. The chives are a great match with sour cream, though feel free to take them out if you’re going in another direction.

Potato-Chive Pancakes

Adapted from Pancakes and Waffles

Active time: 30 minutes

Total time: 45 minutes

Makes about 1o 4-inch pancakes

4 medium russet or baking potatoes (about 1.5 pounds)

½ teaspoon salt

2 large eggs

1 small onion, grated

2 tablespoons minced fresh chives (or parsley)

3 tablespoons unbleached all-purpose flour

2 large cloves garlic, minced

Freshly ground black pepper

Vegetable oil for frying

Sour cream or plain yogurt and applesauce for topping

Peel and finely grate the potatoes.

Place in a colander and toss with the salt. Let stand 10 minutes, then squeeze out the moisture. In a large bowl, beat the eggs and stir in the potatoes, onion, chives, flour, garlic, and pepper to taste. Mix well.

In a large skillet, heat 2 tablespoons oil over medium heat. For each pancake spoon one heaping tablespoon of batter onto the hot pan and pat down lightly.

Cook until lightly browned underneath, about 4 minutes. Turn over and cook until crisp and golden, about 2 minutes more. Transfer to a baking sheet and keep warm in a 200°F oven as you cook the remaining batter. Serve hot topped with sour cream or yogurt and applesauce.

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Dessert Recipes

Chocolate and Almond Torte

March 14, 2012

I don’t think I know anyone who doesn’t love a rich flourless chocolate cake. It’s always a unanimous crowd pleaser whether you’re hosting a dinner or sharing a good time with friends. It’s also one of those classic recipe everyone should have at least one variation of and this Chocolate and Almond Torte is a pretty great one. The difference between a torte and a flourless chocolate cake is that a torte will usually have some nuts in it and here the ground almonds bring a subtle almond taste to an intense chocolate flavor, just lovely.

I love how just a few simple ingredients thrown together can create such an impact, both visually and taste wise. When baking this torte, you’ll notice it will rise quite a bit and become crisp on the outside, shrinking back down after baking to create a crater like top that’s very rustic looking and in my opinion, visually stunning. The crispy exterior is a fantastic contrast to the super moist cake inside which will change greatly depending on when you eat it…

The first day is a deliciously moist and sharp chocolate cake, but put it in the fridge overnight and you find yourself with an equally addictive fudge-like texture, dense and lighter in taste, ready to be cut up in small pieces and consumed throughout the day. I must admit I’m a fan of the second day version and you’ll easily be converted too. While some people like to top their chocolate torte with powdered sugar, whipped cream or even ganache, I always leave mine fully naked. Why hide these great looking cracks that give so much charm and character, and it’s not like you need anything else to make it taste any better! Beauty in all simplicity…

Chocolate and Almond Torte

Adapted from Food and Travel Magazine
Active time: 30 minutes
Total time: 1 hour
Makes 6-8 servings

250g good quality dark chocolate, minimum 70% cocoa solids
250g unsalted butter, cut into small pieces, plus extra for greasing
6 eggs, separated
125g caster sugar (superfine sugar)
50g ground almonds

Preheat the oven to 190°C/350°F. Lightly grease a 23cm springform cake tin. Melt the chocolate and butter together in a heatproof bowl place over a saucepan of gently simmering water.

Stir until combined then leave to cool.

Whisk the egg yolks with the sugar until light and fluffy. Gradually pour the melted chocolate into the egg mixture, stirring constantly.

Using a large spoon, fold in the ground almonds.

Put the egg whites into a clean dry bowl and whisk until they form stiff peaks.

Using a large metal spoon, fold the egg whites into the chocolate mixture until they are just combined. Pour the mixture into the prepared tin and bake for 35 minutes. The torte will be very moist in the middle but resist cooking it for longer.