Americas Mexico Travels

Riviera Maya, Mexico

March 11, 2012

The Riviera Maya has always been a very popular holiday destination for many reasons: it’s a relatively quick flight from the US/Canada, the weather is almost guaranteed to be gorgeous, the food is mainstream enough to please everyone, and the variety of things to do (or not!) means it suits the sun-seekers as much as the more adventurous types. We picked it for our family trip this year with one goal in mind – to relax! It was my 5th trip to Mexico and all the previous ones had been quite busy, whether I was getting my scuba diving certification in Cozumel, living with a Mexican family and learning Spanish in Cuernavaca, climbing to the top of the Pyramid of the Sun in Teotihuacan or running around Mexico City, meeting trade consulates to finish my end of term paper for school.

This time I was determined to just chill out and the six books I finished reading in as many days prove I succeeded. I spent most of my time by the private cove of our hotel, the Occidental Grand Xcaret, devoring French litterature while sipping cocktails which is a far cry from my usual hiking/adventure trips abroad!

Occidental Grand Xcaret

I didn’t mind so much the laziness, and  every time I’d get fidgety I’d just jump into the water, camera in hand to capture some underwater scene…

Snorkeling Grand Xcaret

The cove was teeming with fish coming to look for food in this ideal shelter from the rough sea. I was enjoying their abundance which made for some nice snorkeling with my brother until I realized they were considering me part of the buffet as well. You see, I have this very annoying condition, whether we want to commonly call it ‘sweet blood’ or else, in that I always attract hungry insects wherever I go. I thought to this day this condition of mine was limited to flying creatures, until those cute little white fish decided to take a bite out of me literally, not once but three times!! They ain’t no piranhas but still, it hurt!

Snorkeling Grand Xcaret

I decided to take a break from my flesh-eating friends and head south to what is probably the region’s most known site: the ruins of Tulum.

Tulum

A nice catamaran ride along the eastern coast of Mexico brought us to the striking site of Tulum, the famous Maya walled city.

Tulum Mexico

While it doesn’t boast the size or grandeur of other Maya site I visited such as Teotihuacan, the location right on the beach with its high cliffs and views overlooking the Caribbean sea is a must visit on any trip to the Yucatan Peninsula. The history of Tulum, all those unanswered questions about its demise and what happened to the Mayan population living there at that time make for a very eye-opening tour and is definitely a great way to spend an afternoon. Watching the sun set over Tulum is some pretty fantastic sight…

Tulum Mexico

 Xcaret Park

The only other day I was not turning pages or defending my skin underwater, we made a day out of visiting Xcaret Park, the biggest eco theme park in Riviera Maya. Easy enough, our hotel was part of the natural reserve so all we had to do was follow the river from our hotel to the entrance of the park.

Xcaret  Park Mexico

While it might sound pretty touristy, we did very much enjoy our day at Xcaret, not managing to see the entire park (it is huge!) but hopping here and there to the attractions we most wanted to see. Surprisingly, they had a ‘mushroom farm’ which the foodie that I am was dying to see…

Xcaret  Park Mexico

The main attraction here is the river which meanders all over the park, over and under the ground. Being the water lovers that we are, we made sure we had time to try both the boat tour and swimming in the underground river which is insanely cool, but would be a lot cooler if there weren’t another few hundred people doing the same thing! Hello bottlenecks…

Xcaret  Park Mexico

For those who’d rather imbibe their liquid then swim in it, there’s even a wine tasting cave with some Mexican Grand Crus.

Xcaret  Park Mexico

The rest of the park is a gigantic zoo to our greatest pleasure – we could spend hours staring at animals, probably a family thing, therefore the rest of the day was spent running to all four corners to check out our favorite species. Xcaret is known for its flamingos conservation program so we took a peak at those shrimp-colored birds for a bit and then went on to see some more creatures.

Xcaret  Park Mexico

Xcaret  Park Mexico

Of course, I had to stop at the aquarium, no risk of being bitten here! Though not as unique as my latest underwater sightings in Thailand, it’s still wonderfully soothing to stare at such beauty through a glass window.

Xcaret  Park Mexico

The best for last – turtles! We could walk through their green turtle rescue program, admiring dozens of them from 2 inches to about 4-5 feet long, the largest hard-shell turtles in the world! I was in awe…

Xcaret  Park Mexico

Every day at Xcaret finishes with a beautiful Night Show not to be missed, with songs from all the districts, theatrical and historical representations, and some pretty cool effects.

Recipes Vegetarian

Fig Jam

March 8, 2012

Everyone I know has what I call a favorite ‘backup meal’ at home – the food item(s) you’re never without even when your kitchen is totally empty so you can have a ‘meal’ in an emergency situation (i.e. tornado outside, too bad a hangover to get out of the house, total lack of inspiration, etc.). For some it’s a simple bowl of cereals, PB&J sandwich, or the ubiquitous cheese and crackers combo. I’m a cheese and crackers kind of gal all the way, never without at least a good cheese in my refrigerator, whether it’s a brie, goat or cheddar. The one extra thing I always add to easily elevate this humble meal is a fancy jam or chutney, and that fig jam is as good as it’s going to get.

Its versatility is what makes it a pantry staple in my house as it goes with absolutely EVERYTHING you can think of, and I mean it! Spread over cheese and bread, drizzled over ice cream, smeared in your favorite meat sandwich, mixed in Greek yogurt for a healthy breakfast, etc. I have a preference for creamy goat cheese or blue cheese with it and crusty bread, the Greek yogurt coming close second.

The jam has a thick consistency with a rich sweetness and will leave you feeling warm and full, perfect for a meal on the go. What I love the most about this particular fig jam is the addition of cinnamon, cloves, and nutmeg that really comes through, taking it a notch above the usual fig-sugar-lemon combo. It’s also very chunky with plenty of big pieces of figs to bite into which I much prefer to thin spreads. If you can resist eating the whole batch (!), this also makes for very elegant and tasty gifts. The labor of love that goes into making your own jam and canning it is something everyone can appreciate.

 Fig Jam

Adapted from The Seasoned Vegetarian
Active time: 20 minutes
Total time: 1 hour
Makes loads… about 8 cups.
 
2 red onions, sliced
2 tablespoon vegetable oil
1 garlic clove, crushed
1 carrot, finely chopped
1 small red chilli, finely chopped
400g (14oz) fresh figs, quartered
400g (14oz) dried figs, chopped
1 tablespoon ground cinnamon
1 teaspoon ground cloves
pinch of freshly grated nutmeg
200g (70oz) demerara or turbinado sugar
150ml (¼ pint) cider vinegar
salt and freshly ground black pepper
 
Sterilised jars

 

Fry the onions in the oil in a large pan until soft. Add the garlic, carrot and chilli and cook for a further 4 minutes.

Fig Jam

Now add the fresh and dried figs and spices and cook for 2-3 minutes, stirring as you go.

Fig Jam

Add the sugar, vinegar and seasoning. Crank up the heat to bring the jam to the boil, then reduce the heat a notch to prevent it from burning, and simmer for about 12 minutes until thick and jammy.

Fig Jam

Allow to cool slightly…

Fig Jam

…then pot into sterilised jars, label and cover lightly.

Fig Jam

I served the jam with an unctuous triple creme goat brie, a crusty baguette and a few slices of prosciutto… best lunch ever!

Fig Jam Fig Jam

 

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Montreal Restaurants

Le Filet, Montreal

March 6, 2012

In a city mostly known for its carnivorous tendencies and where the go-to spots have always been centered around meat as the main draw (think APDC, Schwartz, Joe Beef, etc.), it’s a relief to see that Montreal can also pull the seafood card avec brio with the opening last year of Le Filet. From the start, the pedigree of the place was already way up, knowing it was owned by the impressive duo behind one of Montreal’s very best restaurant Le Club Chasse et Pêche. They had set up on a mission to prove that it was possible to find in Montreal exceptional, regionally caught seafood and I think they totally delivered.

What makes Le Filet stand out so much is not just the quality and creativity of the food but the modern and refined presentation which is a big notch above other popular seafood eateries that have opened recently with a more casual pub/bistro feel, such as Le Bremner.  What you get here is meticulous presentation and extremely well-trained servers that make your visit to Le Filet from the moment you walked in to the moment you’re out a real pleasure.

Le Filet Montreal

Located on a stretch of Mont-Royal Avenue that isn’t particularly booming with eateries, it’s a surprise to stumble upon this buzzing restaurant across the street from Jeanne Mance Park. My only downside is in the space itself – very dark with low ceilings and black walls, it has a sort of nightclub feel to it, lightened up here and there by luminous underwater artworks and deep red tablecloths, with noise levels to match when the place is packed which is the case most nights.

It more than makes up for it with the food though which could be described as ‘fine French seafood tapas with an Asian twist’. The menu is divided into sections: Oysters, Mont-Royal Salads, Raw, Broths & Shellfishes, Warm Tide, Home Made Pasta, Amphibians and Earthly, and choosing only a few items might just be the hardest thing you’ll have to do that week. All the plates are small and meant to be shared (usually 2-3 per person will be plenty) and your super knowledgeable waiter can easily handpick the perfect selection for you. With a little guidance from ours, we ordered from most categories and devoured a true feast as shown by the pictures below. The grilled octopus was a standout and the sweetbreads a wonderful surprise…

Oysters
Le Filet Montreal - Oysters

Salad: Scallops, avocado, orange, beet
Le Filet Montreal - Beet salad

Raw: Fluke, japanese plum, wasabi, cucumber
Le Filet Montreal - Fluke

Warm tide: Grilled Char, cauliflower, couscous, curry sauce
Le Filet Montreal - Char

Earthly: Mushroom tart, snails, bacon, arugula pesto
Le Filet Montreal - Mushroom tart

Amphibians: Sweetbread, lobster ravioli, jerusalem artichokes
Le Filet Montreal - Sweetbread

Amphibians: Grilled octopus, marrow, cherry tomatoes
Le Filet Montreal - Octopus

The finale was a scrumptious, sweet maple-based tart…
Le Filet Montreal - Dessert

Le Filet Montreal

Le Filet
219, avenue du Mont-Royal Ouest
Montreal, QC
T: (514) 360-6060
map
 
Main course Recipes

Pork Tinga (Mexican Pulled Pork)

March 3, 2012

If you’ve never heard of pork tinga, it is basically the Mexican version of our American BBQ: tender pulled pork, slowly cooked, and packed with heat and some major flavors. I’m a huge fan of chipotle peppers in adobo sauce and always have a can handy to spice things up, enjoying their wonderful smokiness with anything from meat to chili to salsa. Here they add a pleasant kick to a tender stew of pork, spicy chorizo, and potatoes, creating the perfect filling for hearty tacos.

This is a great ‘get-together’ dish as it’ll feed a lot of people and can easily be made ahead and reheated just before serving, leaving you plenty of time to mingle. The flavor is rich and spicy with incredible depth – a fantastic Mexican recipe from chef Rick Bayless for a low-stress dinner party…or a lot of leftovers!


Serve with a fruity, rich Syrah or favorite Mexican beer.

Pork Tinga

Adapted from Rick Bayless’s recipe
Active time: 45 minutes
Total time: 1hr 45 minutes
Serves 4
 
1 1/4 pounds trimmed boneless pork shoulder or butt, cut into 1 1/2-inch cubes
1/4 teaspoon dried marjoram
1/4 teaspoon dried thyme
3 bay leaves
3/4 pound red potatoes, cut into 1/2-inch dice
2 tablespoons vegetable oil
1 large fresh chorizo, casing removed
1 medium onion, finely chopped
1 garlic clove, minced
One 28-ounce can peeled Italian tomatoes, chopped and drained
2 chipotle chiles in adobo, seeded and minced, plus 4 teaspoons sauce
Salt and sugar, for seasoning
 
Garnish: avocado, red onion, queso fresco, flour tortillas
 

 

In a large saucepan, simmer the pork, marjoram, thyme and bay leaves in 4 cups of salted water, partially covered, until the meat is tender, 45 minutes.

Pork Tinga

Using a slotted spoon, transfer the pork to a plate; let cool slightly, then tear it into smaller pieces. Skim the fat from the pork broth; reserve 1 1/2 cups.

Pork Tinga

In a large saucepan of boiling salted water, cook the potatoes until just tender, about 8 minutes. Drain well.

In a medium, deep skillet, heat the oil. Add the chorizo and stir over moderately low heat, breaking it up, until cooked through, 10 minutes; transfer to a plate.

Pork Tinga

Add the pork and onion to the skillet and cook over moderate heat, stirring, until well-browned, 10 minutes. Add the garlic and cook for 1 minute. Stir in the tomatoes and chorizo and cook for 5 minutes.

Pork Tinga

Add the potatoes, chipotle, adobo sauce and the 1 1/2 cups of pork broth; simmer for 10 minutes.

Pork Tinga

Season with salt and a pinch of sugar and serve with flour tortillas, sliced avocado, red onion and queso fresco.

Pork Tinga

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Breakfast / Brunch Dessert Recipes Vegetarian

Chocolate Raspberry Turnovers

February 29, 2012

From the moment I took my first bite as a little girl into a warm and flaky chocolatine (chocolate croissant) I was hooked. Chocolate would be part of my breakfast rituals from then on and include everything from pastries and cookies to praline spreads. I’ve eaten my way literally through the commercial versions available to me though none would quite satisfy my palate as much as the real thing – fresh pastry dough slowly leaking its high buttery content into a rich and dark chocolate…

It remains to this day a special treat I’ll allow myself on the weekends when I can get to a proper bakery, but there are times when I crave a bigger quantity or have guests over and I just want to smell the chocolaty goodness all over my house – that’s when those addictive Chocolate and Raspberry Turnovers come in!

These mini pastries are quick to put together and with only 4 ingredients are as simple as can be. Even though you can make your own puff pastry, the frozen kind works really well here and in the end it’s all about getting them as fresh and hot as possible, when the chocolate is still melting. The raspberry jam is a wonderful addition, perfect pairing with the dark chocolate. As a bonus, you can even freeze unbaked turnovers until you’re ready to pop them into the oven. You now have the perfect excuse to have chocolate for breakfast every day.

Chocolate Raspberry Turnovers

Adapted from Gourmet
Active time: 20 minutes
Total time: 45 minutes
Makes 32 small pastries
 
1 (17 1/4-oz) package frozen puff pastry sheets, thawed
1 large egg
1/3 cup raspberry jam
3 1/2 oz fine-quality milk chocolate, finely chopped
*parchment paper
 

Put oven racks in upper and lower thirds of oven and preheat oven to 425°F.

Line 2 large baking sheets with parchment paper.

Roll out 1 puff pastry sheet into a 12-inch square on a lightly floured surface with a floured rolling pin, then brush off excess flour from both sides. Cut into 16 squares.

Chocolate Raspberry Turnovers

Whisk together egg and a pinch of salt. Place 1/2 teaspoon jam and 1 teaspoon chocolate in center of each square, then brush edges of squares with some of beaten egg.

Chocolate Raspberry Turnovers

Fold each square in half to form a triangle, pressing edges to seal (while you can press using your fingers, it’s much better here to use a fork to seal them really tight as the raspberry filling tend to ooze out when cooking).

Chocolate Raspberry Turnovers

Brush tops of pastries with some of remaining egg and transfer to a lined baking sheet. Chill on sheet while making 16 more pastries in same manner, transferring to second baking sheet.

Bake pastries, switching position of sheets halfway through baking, until golden and cooked through, about 20 minutes.

Chocolate Raspberry Turnovers

Cool on sheets on racks 5 minutes. Serve warm.

Chocolate Raspberry Turnovers
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