New York Restaurants

La Mar Cebicheria Peruana, New York

January 17, 2012

Here’s one restaurant opening of 2011 I was impatiently waiting for – La Mar Cebicheria Peruana settling down in the Flatiron district. My recent trip to Peru saw me fall in love with the cuisine, the people, and the culture of this stunning country and La Mar will get you that much closer to having a taste of it all.

Peruvian chef Gastón Acurio is probably the highest-profile chef in South America with countless TV cooking shows and over 30 establishments in twelve countries. His La Mar chain of signature ceviche bars opened his first US outlet in San Francisco a few years ago before making its way to Manhattan in the fall of 2011. The two-floor space off Madison Square Park used to host Indian-fusion restaurant Tabla and is now the stage for a captivating Peruvian dining experience. Ever since coming back from Peru, I realized just how much Peruvian food had yet to be discovered in all its glory and I have a feeling La Mar Cebicheria Peruana might just do the trick…

First things first, no Peruvian meal of mine has ever started without a traditional and frothy Pisco Sour. La Mar does them perfectly and they’re the ideal accompaniment for the extremely addictive fried plantain chips with hot dipping sauce that land on your table…be careful, it’s easy to fill up on such a delicious snack!

La Mar Cebicheria New York

The quinoa salad was a fantastic start – roasted scallops, tricolor organic quinoa, greens, Japanese cucumber, with a grilled tomatoes and ají amarillo emulsion finished with huacatay oil.

La Mar Cebicheria New York

Of course the staple of Peruvian cuisine, cebiche, is playing a main role on the menu and I could easily make a meal of it! We ordered the cebiche tasting which includes a sample of three ceviche from the menu: Fluke with corn and yam, salmon with shrimps and octopus topped with crispy calamari, and yellowfin tuna with daikon and avocado in a tamarind sauce. They all tasted amazing though my favorite one was the fluke, incredibly fresh with a nice little kick from the spicy lime-based leche de tigre sauce.

La Mar Cebicheria New York

The main dish of Sudado was a delicious red grouper with Manila clams, yucca, Kabocha squash, onions and tomatoes cooked in ajies and white wine broth.

La Mar Cebicheria New York

A dessert of lúcuma y cacao was a memorable introduction to this Peruvian native tropical fruit, here featured in a tube-shaped flan over crushed alfajores and a cheese ice cream…dreamy! The taste was slightly reminiscent of maple…we left wanting more!

La Mar Cebicheria New York

The ground floor bar area is a great place for an after-work drink and a quick bite in a soothing atmosphere – shimmering lattice curtains and blue lights give the space a nice aquatic feel.

La Mar Cebicheria New York

It’s hard to leave a place like this especially with drinks this good, on par with the superior food we had all night. After the Pisco came the La Mar Sangria – forget everything you knew about sangria, this is probably the best regional adaptation I’ve ever had the pleasure to taste. While still using Spanish red wine, they add chicha morada (a typical Peruvian drink made of purple corn), pisco quebranta, cachaça (liquor made from fermented sugarcane juice), and of course seasonal fruits. The end result is a perfectly strong, dark and fruity sangria with the underlying notes of cinnamon and cloves from the chicha morada. It brought me right back to that terrace in Aguas Calientes where I had my very first chicha morada, killing a few hours before climbing up to Machu Picchu

La Mar Cebicheria New York

I couldn’t be happier that New York finally has its share of Gastón Acurio’s creative and refined cuisine and that more people will finally discover the wonder that is Peruvian food. It won’t stop me from going back to this breathtaking country, but it will probably contribute to my increased consumption of healthy fish, corn, and potatoes…

La Mar Cebicheria Peruana
11 Madison Ave
Manhattan, NY 10010
T: (212) 612-3388
map
Main course Recipes

Norwegian Meatballs

January 15, 2012

Meatballs (called  “kjøttkaker”) are one of the most traditional food in Norway and I would venture also in most countries with sub-zero winters. I grew up with the comforting aroma of my mom’s ‘ragoût de boulettes‘ up in Canada, where the meatballs are bigger, made of porc and soaked in a lighter, chicken-based gravy.

Norwegian meatballs are spiced with nutmeg and this version has an unusual cocoa-sauce that elevates it from the classic dish. It features gjetost, a caramel-colored Norwegian cheese with a very distinct and sweet flavor. It’s unlike any cheese you’ve tasted before – sweet as caramel with the texture of a dense, buttery fudge. Norwegians refer to it as ‘ski cheese’ as apparently they pack it as a hearty snack on the slopes! The most famous brand is ‘Ski Queen’ and is probably the one you’ll be able to find most easily.

This recipe makes for a lot of meatballs so feel free to half it like I did. This shouldn’t stop you from enyoying this delicious Scandinavian comfort food

 Norwegian Meatballs

Adapted from Scandilicious
Makes 8 servings
Active time: 1hr
 

Meatballs

  • 3/4 cup milk
  • 1 tablespoon whole-milk plain yogurt
  • 3 slices of white sourdough bread, crusts removed
  • 1 tablespoon vegetable oil
  • 1 medium onion, finely chopped
  • 1 tablespoon ground allspice
  • 1/2 teaspoon ground ginger
  • 1/2 teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg
  • 1 pound ground lamb
  • 1 pound ground veal
  • 1 large egg yolk
  • 1 tablespoon kosher salt
  • 1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

Gravy

  • 1 quart beef stock
  • 1/3 cup brandy
  • 1 1/2 cups crème fraîche (12 ounces)
  • 3 ounces gjetost cheese, shredded (1 cup)
  • 1 tablespoon unsweetened cocoa powder
  • Mashed potatoes and rutabagas, for serving

Prepare the meatballs: In a medium bowl, mix the milk and yogurt. Add the bread and press to submerge. Let stand until saturated, about 10 minutes.

Meanwhile, in a medium skillet, heat the oil. Add the onion and cook over moderate heat until softened, 8 minutes. Add the allspice, ginger and nutmeg and cook for 1 minute.

In a large bowl, combine the ground lamb and veal with the bread mixture, onion and egg yolk. Sprinkle with the salt and pepper and blend thoroughly.

Norwegian Meatballs

Form into 80 rounded-teaspoon-size meatballs.

Norwegian Meatballs

Preheat a grill pan. Oil the pan and grill the meatballs in batches over moderate heat, turning, until lightly charred, about 5 minutes per batch.

Make the gravy: In a large, deep skillet, boil the stock over high heat until reduced to 2 cups, 10 minutes. Add the brandy and boil for 2 minutes. Whisk in the crème fraîche, gjetost cheese and cocoa powder and bring to a simmer.

Add the grilled meatballs and simmer over low heat, stirring occasionally, until the meatballs are cooked through and the gravy is slightly thickened, about 10 minutes.

Norwegian Meatballs

Serve with mashed potatoes and rutabagas.

Norwegian Meatballs

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Hong Kong Restaurants

Luk Yu Tea House, Hong Kong

January 13, 2012

Stepping into Luk Yu Tea House is immersing yourself in one of Hong Kong’s most traditional establishment and embracing the sights, sounds, and smells of a bygone era. First opened in 1933, this half-century-old living monument still resonate with the calm elegance of old Hong Kong with its original black ceiling fans, spittoons, mirrored and marbled private wooden booths, and stained-glass windows. The Art Deco interior plays backdrop to a typically noisy scene and traditional manners, where first floor seats are reserved for loyal long-time customers and devoted waiters flaunt an indifferent demeanor.

Going for yum cha at Luk Yu is a delightful experience best enjoyed mid-morning or mid-afternoon to avoid the rush hours and take time to really soak in the ambiance – dim sum is served between 7.00am and 5.30pm.

Luk Yu Tea House - Hong Kong

The menu, which is printed on “Chinese traditional calendar”, offers some of the most traditional and delicious dim sum dishes that you cannot find elsewhere. They have one in English for tourists though as you might expect it is significantly smaller than its Chinese version! Nevertheless, there’s plenty of authentic and delicious dim sum to have in the weekly changing menu, a few of which are illustrated below:

Pan-fried turnip cakes

Luk Yu Tea House - Hong Kong

Steamed rice with duck meat wrapped in lotus leaves

Luk Yu Tea House - Hong Kong

Shrimp dumplings

Luk Yu Tea House - Hong Kong

Jumbo-size chicken bun

Luk Yu Tea House - Hong Kong

Steamed minced beef balls were the only item that I did not really care for… too gelatinous for me.

Luk Yu Tea House - Hong Kong

Steamed Egg Custard Bun – Oh… I could never end a dim sum meal without one of these fantastic hot bun with a rich egg-yolk and sugar filling.

Luk Yu Tea House - Hong Kong

Appealing to both locals and tourists alike, Luk Yu Tea House simply cannot be beat for a unique yum cha experience in a vintage Hong Kong ambiance and decor.

Luk Yu Tea House
24-26 Stanley St, Central
Hong Kong
T: 852 2523 5464
map

 

Breakfast / Brunch Dessert Recipes Vegetarian

Lemon-Glazed Citrus-Yogurt Pound Cake

January 10, 2012

A good lemon pound cake recipe is one thing every cook should have in his/her repertoire. It’s so versatile, transportable and bright it would cheer anybody up any season of the year. It’s another case where using the ‘real’ ingredients is of the essence – any cake made with store-bought lemon juice pales in comparison with juicing your own citrus and gives off an acidic taste that’s anything but natural…

I’ve had my fair share of lemon pound cakes and this one scores high  – it’s insanely moist and has a pleasantly sweet flavor to curb my sweet cravings in the morning! Grapefruit juice in the batter and a lemon glaze on top gives this super tender cake a wonderful citrusy taste. It’s a perfect breakfast companion.

Lemon-Glazed Citrus-Yogurt Pound Cake

Adapted from ‘Food and Wine’
Makes 1 loaf
 
Cake
2 cups cake flour
1 teaspoon baking powder
3/4 teaspoon baking soda
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/4 cup grapefruit juice
1/2 cup full-fat plain yogurt
1 stick unsalted butter, softened
1 cup granulated sugar
2 large eggs
1 teaspoon finely grated lemon zest
 
Glaze
3 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
3 tablespoons granulated sugar
1/2 cup confectioners’ sugar
2 tablespoons unsalted butter, softened
 

MAKE THE CAKE: Preheat the oven to 350°. Butter and flour a 9 1/2-by-5-inch loaf pan. In a medium bowl, whisk the flour, baking powder, baking soda and salt. In a small bowl, whisk the grapefruit juice with the yogurt. In a medium bowl, using an electric mixer, beat the butter with the sugar at medium-high speed until fluffy.

Lemon-glazed pound cake

Beat in the eggs and lemon zest. Beat in the dry and wet ingredients in 3 alternating additions; scrape down the bowl as necessary and then scrape the batter into the prepared pan.

Lemon-glazed pound cake

Bake for 50 minutes, until the top is golden and a toothpick inserted in the center comes out with moist crumbs attached. Tent the cake with foil halfway through baking to slow the browning. Transfer to a rack to cool for 20 minutes, then unmold and let cool.

MEANWHILE, MAKE THE GLAZE: In a small microwave-safe bowl, microwave the lemon juice and granulated sugar at high power for 20 seconds, until the sugar is dissolved. Transfer 2 tablespoons of the lemon syrup to a bowl and whisk in the confectioners’ sugar and butter. Using a pastry brush, brush the lemon syrup all over the cake. Let stand for 10 minutes to allow the syrup to seep in.

Lemon-glazed pound cake

Spread the sugar glaze over the cake and let stand until completely dry, 30 minutes.

Lemon-glazed pound cake

Slice and serve!

Lemon-glazed pound cake

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New York Restaurants

Lunetta – Brooklyn, NY

January 8, 2012

[Update: This restaurant is now closed – Feb 2014 🙁 ]

Lunetta is a lovely, quaint Italian trattoria on Smith Street in Cobble Hill that’s been a favorite of the neighborhood for years. The low-lit scene with rich shades of scarlet invites you to slow down, relax, and enjoy every delicious bite you’ll be taking, and no one is ever going to rush you.

Owner and chef Adam Shepard offers a hearty market-driven menu of small plates accompanied by plenty of pleasing Italian reds and whites by the glass. Lunetta is a member of Slow Food New York so what you’re getting here is fresh meat, dairy, and produce sourced from local, natural, and organic farms as well as a selection of Lunetta’s homemade cured meat and cheeses.

One tip – waste no time in ordering bruschetta for the table, they’re all scrumptious! From left to right: chicken liver, balsamic and roasted onionslunetta ricotta with honey and lemoncannellini beans with garlic and sagewhite anchovies and sweet cream butterroasted mushrooms & vin cotto

Lunetta, Brooklyn - Bruschetta

Creamy polenta and roasted mushroom ragu

Lunetta - Brooklyn, NY - Creamy Polenta and Roasted Mushrooms

Tagliatelle bolognese rustica

Lunetta - Brooklyn, NY - Tagliatelle Bolognese

Lunetta meatballs – Berkshire pork and grass-fed beef, walnuts and toasted garlic red sauce with pasta

Lunetta - Brooklyn, NY - Lunetta Meatballs with Pasta

Roasted butternut with sage and brown butter

Lunetta - Brooklyn, NY - Roasted Butternut

Grilled Berkshire sausage, lunetta made saurkraut & gigante beans

Lunetta - Brooklyn, NY - Grilled Berkshire Sausage and Saurkraut

Lunetta is exactly the kind of laid-back neighborhood restaurant you’d expect to find in Italy – the food is superb, the atmosphere inviting and it’s so comfortable and unpretentious you’ll want to make this place your regular joint. Try getting one of the comfy red banquettes, or even better one of the 6 prime bar seats overlooking the kitchen for a bit of action.

Lunetta
116 Smith St.
Brooklyn, NY
T: 718-488-6269
map