As the birthplace of the Renaissance, Florence is home to innumerable artistic masterpieces, many of which can be found in what is now the oldest gallery in the world – The Uffizi Gallery. A must on every visitor’s list, it is best explored early in the morning while you still have full energy and a good 3-4 hours to do it justice. The walk along the Arno (the gallery entrance faces the river) in the morning is delightful with the south side bathed in light and the view of the Ponte Vecchio waking up.

The Uffizi

Built in 1560-1580 as a suite of offices for the then duke of Florence, Cosimo I de’ Medici, the Uffizi was shortly afterwards used by his heirs to display the Medici family art treasures. With their immense wealth, they had commissioned pieces from many great Florentine masters and their descendants kept adding to it until 1737. While the Renaissance collection is undoubtedly the highlight, you can see works on display reaching into the 20th century.

Armed with your timed-entry ticket, you enter the gallery through the narrow Piazzale degli Uffizi, buzzing with artists already in the early morning. You can make use of an audio-guide to navigate the series of rooms, with most people starting on the second floor to see the earliest works first and explore the collection in chronological order. Yes, there are people everywhere but the reason the Medici decided to used this space as an art gallery is due to the sizable rooms and abundance of light which you’ll appreciate – it truly is a stunning building worthy of the treasures it holds.

You start with Tuscan Gothic art from the 12th to the 14th century with pieces by Giotto, a lot of gold and mostly flat figures in medieval dresses.

Next, the Renaissance galleries will have you wander and pause for much longer, admiring works you’ve seen referenced in school, books, and movies. The iconic double portrait of the Duke and Duchess of Urbino by Piero della Francesca (1473-1475), two of the first Renaissance portraits, stands proudly in the middle of the room so you can go around and see their painted back. On the reverse the husband and wife are portrayed as a pair of Roman gods, Mars and Venus.

Known as the museum’s most famous artwork, Botticelli’s Birth of Venus takes up an entire wall. It will no doubt have a crowd in front admiring every detail as it is full of hidden meanings and symbols. Thankfully it is very large, unlike the Mona Lisa, and you can take in its incredible beauty from any angle.

The Tribune is a gorgeous octagonal room designed by Buontalenti for Francesco I de’ Medici to showcase the most precious Medici artworks. It has served as the heart of the museum since the 16th century. While there might be a short line, I highly recommend taking the time to see this jewel box, the red velvet walls, the marble mosaic floor, and the intricate mother-of-pearl dome.

There are too many amazing paintings and sculptures for me to share here, from Leonardo da Vinci and Caravaggio to Botticelli, so you’ll have to go see them for yourself! Coming in and out of the rooms, don’t forget to peak out of the river-facing windows – the views over Ponte Vecchio from up here are just splendid.

You’ll surely need a break at this point. Thankfully, there’s a lovely terrace on the second floor’s rooftop from where you can get some fresh air with a close up look at the Palazzo Vecchio’s tower, right next door.

Sit at the café for some caffeine and a bite to see you through the rest of your visit. With over 1,700 artworks, the Uffizi can be a lot to take in. There’s even a so-called Florence Syndrome, often attributed to a visit at the Uffizi, which is a psychosomatic illness triggered by viewing lots of beautiful art in quick succession… you’ve be warned!

Now rested, continue your visit of the Renaissance galleries and later Italian paintings.

You’ll finish your visit on the first floor with more “modern” artworks and European art from famous Spanish, Dutch and French painters. There are still hundreds of exquisite pieces here but I was starting to think I’d rather come back with fresh eyes, feeling a bit visually exhausted by all the Renaissance works I had just spent a few hours admiring.

Ponte Vecchio

Back out in the glorious sunshine, now’s your chance to check out the iconic medieval bridge that is Ponte Vecchio, steps away from the Uffizi. The oldest bridge in Florence has withstood floods and wars since the 14th century and is still today a favorite spot to enjoy the river vistas.

There have always been workshops on this bridge, though the noisy and smelly tanners, butchers, and blacksmiths shops have since been rebuilt to host the sweeter smelling goldsmiths.

You can shop for everything from affordable modern earrings to antique rings and necklaces, or just enjoy the lively scene with performers and portrait painters mingling with the crowd.

There are quite a few more options to stop for lunch near the Uffizi compared with near the Duomo, whether you want to sit down properly at a trattoria or get a quick snack at a cafe. Since most try to pack in as much as possible in a day, I can recommend Budellino, a cozy little wine bar with a sandwich menu perfect for a midday meal. My focaccia with salami was the perfect salty bite to pair with a glass of dry rosé.

Piazza della Signoria

If you exit north of the Uffizi, you’ll arrive in this huge L-shaped square, Piazza della Signoria, which used to be the hub of Florentine politics since the 14th century. Today it is surrounded by famous buildings, notably the Palazzo Vecchio, and act as a unique outdoor sculpture gallery.

You can get a closer look at some of the most beautiful sculptures in the Loggia dei Lanzi, including the Medici lions and the famous Rape of a Sabine Woman. It’s just outside the Palazzo and you get a good view of the square from this elevated perspective as a bonus too.

The Fountain of Neptune in front of the Palazzo is a masterpiece in marble and the first public fountain in Florence. If you look closely on the side facing the Palazzo, you can still see a plaque from 1720 which lists fines for using the fountain for laundry or washing animals.

Palazzo Vecchio

The “Old Palace” which looks like a castle with a spire currently houses Florence’s city hall and museum. Though it was built in 1299, its golden age coincided with the arrival of the Medici family who chose it as their residence in 1540, a familiar story when it comes to Florence’s most grandiose buildings. The austere medieval fortress was then transformed, creating magnificent rooms such as the Salone dei Cinquecento (the Hall of the Five Hundred) on the first floor.

Everywhere you look, from the side walls to the ceiling, are frescoes depicting the victorious battles against Pisa and Siena, celebrating Florentine power and the dynasty.

Private apartments follow, offering glimpses into the opulent lifestyle of the Medici family and the beautiful furniture and artworks they surrounded themselves with.

The second floor includes the living quarters of the duchess Eleonora and the calming, nature-inspired Green Room from where she used to administer the Palace’s daily life.

She even had a private, sumptuous chapel frescoed by Bronzino right next to her office where she spent a lot of time. It is one of the few places in Palazzo Vecchio that has not been decorated to the glory of the Medici, but instead with symbolic representations of cardinal virtues.

More monumental rooms can be seen on this floor like the Hall of the Lilies, named for the fleur-de-lis decorations, and the Room of the Maps with more than 50 painted world maps providing a glimpse of the world during that period.

Find the access to the Tower of Arnolfo (named for its architect) or more appropriately Bell Tower (you’ll need a timed-entry ticket here too), so called since it was built to house a huge bell used to call citizens to meetings or warn them of fire, flood, or enemy attack. The 223-step climb is well worth it and you’ll see why…

The views are incredible on a clear day, unsurprising as this is the highest tower in all of Tuscany at over 300-feet tall (yes, higher than the one in Pisa!).

You have a direct line into the Uffizi’s cafe where you previously had a sweet break looking up at the tower you now stand in.

The Duomo’s scale with the mountains in the background comes to life in the prettiest Florence postcard imaginable.

Let your gaze follow the Arno river from east to west, flowing through the city center, passing under iconic bridges and making its way towards Pisa. This was my favorite view of Florence so take your time here to soak it all in before going down.

Walk back toward the river through the little streets south of the Piazza to experience the charm of medieval Florence for a few minutes. Strolling underneath the narrow stone archways of pedestrian streets like Via dei Girolami is an instant trip back in time. The old-world atmosphere of the alley is so authentic it featured prominently in the movie A Room with a View.

This cozy labyrinth just steps from the Uffizi opens up to little piazzas and artful surprises. The Tree of Peace (Albero della Pace), a bronze sculpture by Andrea Roggi, is displayed permanently on Via dei Georgofili right behind the gallery to commemorate the victims of the 1993 Florence bombing. A terrorist attack carried out by the Sicilian Mafia killed five people and injured a further 40 and Roggi made this sculpture to reunite Florence and promote love and compassion in memory of the attack.

The afternoon sun is now shining on the north bank of the Arno so it’s a great time for a stroll and some luxury window shopping. When you’re ready to get back in, follow the street leading up from the Ponte Vecchio for a few blocks…

… and find the Mercato del Porcellino (also known as the Mercato Nuovo). The 16th-century Renaissance loggia has dozens of market stalls selling leather goods and other souvenirs.

The main attraction though is the beloved bronze wild boar fountain (Il Porcellino) on the south side. According to Florentine tradition, rubbing the boar’s snout guarantees you will return to Florence…

Options to fill your belly are vast around here. If you’re pressed for time, right at the corner of the market you’ll find Antica Porchetteria Granary 1916 for, you guessed it, freshly made porchetta sandwiches.

For a quick sit down with a bit more variety, head to Orizi Mariano, a family-owned sandwich shop where the wife and husband duo will craft a dreamy panino to order. Eat it with a glass of wine in their brick-vaulted, 13th-century cellar and watch as the locals drop by for a chat and a coffee.

You can choose from classic cold cuts and cheese to smoked salmon and tongue, all paired wonderfully with marinated vegetables.

For a casual Tuscan comfort meal, Nerocarbone Bistró Toscano is a great cozy spot. Disregard the fact that they serve the food on paper plates (maybe it was just a one-off?), what comes out of the kitchen is delightful – crisp fried artichokes and ribolleta soup (traditional Tuscan white bean and vegetable stew, thickened with day-old bread), all brown and delicious!

Palazzo Davanzati

Now that you got your energy back, there is still so much more to see and do in this jam-packed center. While not in the top of “must-see palaces”, I must admit that my visit to Palazzo Davanzati was among my favorites. Consider adding it to your visit if you like preserved houses and see what life was like in the 14th century (for wealthy merchants and bankers that is). You first walk into the inner courtyard where a staircase links to the four upper floors.

It’s a one-of-a-kind example of a medieval house in Florence with furniture and household tools from the 14th to the 19th centuries. 

Some of the rooms are richly decorated with murals and frescoes dating back to the middle ages like The Parrots Room.

I was pleasantly surprised to find on the upper floor a very fine collection of lacework ranging from the 16th to the 20th centuries.

You can learn more about the history of lace and the various lace techniques alongside stunning Italian, French, Spanish and Flemish samples, from christening robes to handkerchiefs.

Down the block from the palace, step underneath the bright blue banner of Forno di Antonio Mattei for a snack on the go or a delicious souvenir to enjoy back home. The oldest and most renowned producer of cantucci (or biscotti di Prato) in Tuscany, they’ve been making the twice-baked almond biscuits since 1858 just outside of Florence. Go for classic or with chocolate, pistachio or hazelnut, traditionally dipped in Vin Santo after dinner or dunk in hot chocolate or frothy cappuccino.

Sooner or later you’ll find yourself passing through the beautiful triangle-shaped Piazza di Santa Trinita with its massive Column of Justice and elegant palaces. It’s a central crossroads that connects the river with the city center and feels a bit of a hidden gem although you’ll never find it empty.

Crossing the piazza is the luxury shopping street Via de’ Tornabuoni if you’re looking for some Ferragamo shoes or a Pucci dress.

Modern art at Collezione Roberto Casamonti

Hidden among the palaces lining the piazza are fine museums, including Museo Ferragamo and Roberto Casamonti Collection. The latter is almost hidden in the Renaissance mansion on the east side of the piazza and is a must for modern art lovers.

One of the largest private exhibitions open to the public, it’s housed in the home of gallery-owner and art collector Roberto Casamonti who wanted to showcase his personal collection of modern and contemporary art. Depending on when you go, you’ll see one of two parts of the collection: the first (not on display currently) includes works created from the early twentieth century to the 1960s by artists such as Picasso, Chagall, Kandinsky, Morandi, etc. and the second (currently on display) illustrates the art scene from the 1970s to the present day with Miró, Boetti, Warhol, Haring, Basquiat, Kapoor, etc.

I was almost the only one there for a blissful hour, going from room to room and admiring this beautifully curated selection of 250 pieces. After looking at thousands of Renaissance paintings in the past few days, this felt like such a refreshing sight, almost like my eyes needed an “art rinse” before plunging back into the ‘Golden Age’.

If you need even more modern entertainment, head to the Giunti Odeon for a multicultural experience in a very unique space.

The stunning cinema also houses a bookshop and a cafe so you can peruse art books and contemporary bestsellers while catching glimpse of a movie on the big screen. How fun is that?

Art is not only found in medieval palaces and museums. Florence is full of artists creating one of a kind creations, many of them over in the Santa Croce neighborhood but a few hidden gems are right in the center. I happily stumbled upon Mio Concept Store one day and I’m still thinking about their clever spin on street art and original artworks.

Museo Marino Marini

The modern art at Casamonti had me yearning for more, and there’s no better follow-up around than paying a visit to Museo Marino Marini. It’s not too big so can easily fill in a late afternoon wander before it’s time for aperitivo. The former church is devoted to the work of Italy’s best-known abstract artist, Marino Marini (1901-80).

Even if you don’t know anything about the artist, you’ll appreciate the cleverly designed space with multiple viewpoints that let you take in the three dimensional bronze sculptures from their best angles and in the best light.

Famous all over the world for his “horses and knights”, Marini was also fond of dancers and jugglers which he also immortalized in paintings and drawings. A fascinating introduction to a new artist (well for me) and a striking building.

Head back to Santa Trinita bridge in time for sunset if you can. The central location gives you the best view, at once of the pink sky looking out west…

…and of the Ponte Vecchio at dusk if you just turn your head east.

Florence is a paradise for art and architecture lovers. With so many masterpieces packed into its compact historical center, it’s easy to fill a few days with just the big hitters though there are countless other riches near and far worth stretching your trip for. It would be impossible to write a single blog post on Florence so I’ve divided my visual story into tight walking areas with my favorite sights and eateries, from the iconic Duomo and Uffizi in the center to the surrounding Santa Croce, San Lorenzo, and Oltrarno neighborhoods and beyond.

Morning

Make your way across the heart of the city with a stop at Piazza della Repubblica, a large pedestrian square which used to be the site of the Old Market (only a single column remains). The grand arch dominating the west side was built to commemorate that Florence was once Italy’s capital, albeit briefly (1865-1871).

The square is lined with elegant cafes and I suggest you fuel up here in this pleasantly calm and serene refuge before you hit the tourist hordes around the Duomo, trust me. Caffe Concerto Paszkowski has the perfect shaded terrace for people watching while you eat your breakfast.

Take advantage of the full menu to fill up well if you want to make it through the entire Duomo complex without starving – another tip. Yes, perhaps not your typical Italian pastry breakfast but those won’t give you the energy for what’s to come and options around the Duomo are a bit thin….

If you can, time your visit on a Thursday when the weekly flower market fills the arches southwest of Piazza della Repubblica with fresh flowers and potted plants.

Duomo

Florence’s most famous symbol is impossible to miss and will dwarf anything in its vicinity. The cathedral’s enormous dome dominates the city and no other building stands taller. Get ready to crane your neck and marvel at magnificent monuments.

Arriving at Piazza Duomo puts you in the middle of the busiest square in the city with all the expected activities of itinerant artists and gelato-licking visitors.

Other things of note: lines, incredibly long lines. While the Duomo is free to enter, you’ll need tickets to get into other areas such as the Baptistery, Campanile (tower), museum, and to climb to the top of the dome. I highly recommend buying a pass in advance which will give you access to all you want to see and timed entries so you never have to wait (including to enter the Duomo). This is where it pays to plan, especially if you want to climb the dome as the tickets sell out many weeks before.

The richly decorated exterior with its colorful marble panels in shades of green and pink stuns and one can spend a long time admiring all of the intricate details surrounding such a vast building.

Other than its size, the inside of the cathedral is not that impressive compared with other religious buildings you’ll visit in the city – you’re really here like everybody else for the dome seen at the end.

Catching a glimpse of the world-famous “Brunelleschi’s Dome” is awe-inspiring to say the least. The largest brick dome ever built, its construction marked a major breakthrough in architectural techniques. It’s worth getting your hands on the book Brunelleschi’s Dome: How a Renaissance Genius Reinvented Architecture before your trip – a fascinating read that will truly enrich your visit.

You can choose to either climb the Dome or Giotto’s Campanile (Bell Tower) when booking your tickets (you can also do both but I think it’s overkill?). I personally picked the tower to get the views over the dome, well worth it.

You get stunning 360-degree views over Florence…

… and a great perspective on the enormous orange-tiled dome.

Head next to the octagonal building in front of the cathedral – the Baptistery. One of Florence’s oldest and most important religious buildings, it is famous for its beautiful bronze doors made by renaissance sculptors such as Pisano (although to see the real ones you’ll need to go to the museum)…

…and for its dazzling mosaic covering the entire ceiling and parts of the walls.

The walls are decorated with geometric designs in white and green marbles but I was most captivated by the floor, a splendid assemblage of “marble carpets” inspired by Middle Eastern textiles from the early 1200s.

When you’re done admiring the complex, go around the back of the cathedral to find the Opera del Duomo Museum housed in a yellow building. It truly brings the sheer scale and ambition of the construction of the Duomo alive through amazing exhibitions and display of the original artworks.

The main attraction on the ground floor is the recreation of the ancient façade of the Duomo, which was originally unfinished and dismantled in 1587.

You also get to see up close the original bronze doors of the Baptistery and their intricate relief panels. The eastern pair, ornamented with 10 stories from the Old Testament, was dubbed the “Gates of Paradise” by Michelangelo and considered a renaissance masterpiece.

The Cupola Hall brought everything I had read about the difficult construction of the dome to life with a display of tools specifically invented for it, small scale models, and the funeral mask of the dome architect, Filippo Brunelleschi.

Around the Duomo

Lots of small pedestrian streets radiate south of the cathedral to let you catch your breath, find a bit of “quiet”, and discover local shops. Pegna dal 1860 is a historic gourmet grocery store located in a former monastery dating back to the 1600s just a block from the Duomo. It is THE place to buy Italian specialties for your pantry back home, from spices and chocolates to olive oil, wine and pastas.

Continue south to find better food options for lunch than what’s available right by the cathedral, unsurprisingly. Make your way to Piazza dei Cimatori where you’ll find the sandwich cart L’ Antico Trippaio – a must try. You won’t find more local and authentic than sitting on a stool next to locals eating your very first lampredotto, a Florentine sandwich made with slow-simmered beef tripe, served piping hot inside a crusty roll soaked in broth… simply incredible!

There’s the House of Dante nearby if you’re interested in seeing where the famed poet was born.

I didn’t go into the Dante Museum but admired the tower house from a little cafe across the courtyard with my first espresso tonic – a refreshing pick-me-up on a hot afternoon. I also stumbled upon a kitchen supply store, Ditta Braschi, with unique gift ideas you should check out, from intricately carved pasta molds to whimsical glasses.

Make your way through narrow lanes to the buzzing shopping district where fortified towers house brand names.

Orsanmichele

Surrounded by clothing stores and gift shops, the church and museum of Orsanmichele stands out with its gothic façade in the very heart of the ancient city center.

You’ll need a ticket to enter the building which used to be the city’s grain market in the 14th century before being transformed later into a beautiful church.

Frescoed vaults and painted images of patron saints of the Arts (guilds of arts and crafts) adorned the interior…

…but it’s the extraordinary 1350s tabernacle covered in carved reliefs and encrusted with colored marble and glass that catches the eye.

The upper floors house the museum with the original sculptures from the building and some nice perspectives on the city’s nearby historic buildings.

There are no bad angles to the Hotel Calimala on the next block in a 19th-century palazzo with its rooftop bar.

Visit the top floor for an incredible panorama of Florence before exploring more of the center.

In a cityscape so compact and filled with so many visual marvels, finding the little hidden mysteries of Florence is extremely rewarding. See if you can spot La Berta – a mysterious disembodied head of a woman – sticking out of the Church of Santa Maria Maggiore. According to local legend, she’s either a medieval fruit seller cursed by a sorcerer, or a donor memorialized by the city.

Strozzi Palace

You’ve already seen a few Renaissance masterpieces and religious buildings today so I suggest a change of scenery by stepping into the gigantic Palazzo Strozzi.

The massive palace is now a major cultural venue with world-class exhibitions of art and antiquities. Grabbing an aperitivo in the vast courtyard is a wonderful way to unwind with an impressive backdrop of contemporary art before making your way inside.

The palace is only three stories but each is massive and perfect for large-scale paintings and scupltures.

Keep this quiet, contemplative vibe by strolling the nearby historic streets, home to traditional Florentine architecture and quaint hotels.

You won’t find any large wall murals in this UNESCO World Heritage city center, but art is tolerated on “low-risk surfaces” such as doors and utility boxes. Keep your eyes open and you’ll stumble upon a few surprises on your walks…

You won’t have to look that hard though to find another famous icon of Florence in this area – “wine windows” (buchetta del vino). These small hatches were once used by noble families in the 17th century to sell wine directly to the public. Several have reopened today, often attached to a restaurant or a bar. It’s a fun contactless experience where you simply ring a bell and order your wine from a faceless waiter which you’re free to sip on the street. If you’re craving a seat and a nice little bite, head to Procacci 1885 and order their tiny, delicate sandwiches filled with truffle cream, you won’t be able to stop at just one!

A packed day it was, and there are way more masterpieces just a few blocks away… Tomorrow, we head to the Uffizi Gallery!