Mexico is without a doubt one of my favorite food destinations and everywhere I go there’s a regional specialty that blows my mind, whether it’s the mole in Oaxaca or the fish tacos in Baja. San Cristóbal is no exception. You’ll find plenty of delicious masa-based dishes and local savory ingredients, but it’s really the coffee and chocolate that steals the show. Surprised? I was too until I got to taste from the source and can confirm it’s the best damn coffee and chocolate in all of Mexico.

It makes sense seeing as chocolate has deep indigenous roots and has been sipped for hundreds of years in these parts. Coffee is a more recent addition introduced as a cash crop for impoverished farmers in the Chiapas in the 20th century, and it took on. Both have evolved in the past decades to suit the taste of ever more demanding local consumers and resulted in what I can only describe as world-class Chiapas coffee and chocolate today.

My high score is also from extensive tasting all over the country (!) and my preference for high quality, undiluted flavor. You see, in most of Mexico coffees are drowned in sugar and milk and it’s the same for hot chocolate. In San Cris, you’ll easily find artisanal coffee brewing (french press, espresso, pour over, etc.) and gourmet chocolate with higher % cacao like 80% to 100% – they truly know how to appreciate quality ingredients! OK, well one can’t survive on coffee and chocolate alone, so read on for what else I’ve ingested during my month in the city and my top restaurant recommendations – Bon Appétit!

Morning

Discover first-hand local gourmet chocolate at Jangala, a single origin bean to bar chocolate producer in Chiapas with a shop/cafe in the middle of San Cristóbal. This is some of the best chocolate you can have and you’ll want to bring back home a few bars with unique flavors such as hibiscus & ginger, lavender, potatoes, and maguey worm salt. Drop by the small cafe for a rich hot chocolate or ice cream, or even better, try something new you’re unlikely to find anywhere else. They have cacao juice from the pulp and cacao pozol (below) made by adding corn flour and sugar to cacao.

Xocol-Na Chocolate & Churros specializes in, you guessed it, hot chocolate and delicious fried churros.

The cold mountain air in the morning was made for this indulgent breakfast, and you can have a side of eggs too if you feel like it.

Now for coffee, choices abound. One of the most pleasant and photogenic refuge for your morning ritual has to be Casa Honora.

Sit in the gorgeously illuminated space to slowly sip your cup while admiring art all around. Part gallery and shop, you can also purchase locally made goods, some of the nicest I’ve seen, such as pottery, jewelry, fashion accessories and wall decor.

Serious coffee lovers will want to head straight to Frontera for artisanal extractions and a beautiful garden patio.

If you’re a passionate of coffee like me, you’ll appreciate the brew as much as the presentation which comes with the coffee’s tasting notes and origin on a printed card. Breakfast options are also on par with the coffee quality. I still think about those enmoladas de pollo in their rich mole sauce….

Don’t miss Inina Cafetería, a vegan cafe with exceptional food and very warm welcome by the owners. A favorite for quiet mornings when you want a healthy start (try their homemade kefir and granola bars).

The papitas are also amazing – sort of mini sweet potato hash browns topped with papaya salsa, cashew cheese, avocado and sauerkraut.

When you’re on the hungrier side, fill up with a large plate of classic chilaquiles at La Casa de las Lolas, a popular breakfast spot with big portions and also very good coffee.

Equally good and authentic breakfasts await at Restaurante La Lupe.

One step in and you’ll be charmed by the colorful decor and the smell of fresh tortillas being made right by the entrance.

Get a sweet and spiced Café de Olla with a huarache de huevos, an oblong-shaped thick corn masa base fried until crispy and topped with beans, eggs, and the whole usual toppings – it’s filling!

Coffee is the star at Café la Selva and you’ll walk by their roasting beans before reaching the quiet courtyard. Order a special tamale and relax in this little oasis where all you hear are birds chirping in the trees – you could hardly believe you’re in the Centro.

If you plan on visiting the Na Bolom museum, there’s a quiet courtyard restaurant here. Although not the best food around, their huevos rancheros were decent and the setting is as private as they come.

Head up to Amor Negro (‘Black Love’ Coffee) on the second floor of Plaza San Augustin for locally roasted beans and one of the best cups of coffee in the city. You’ll find a more westernized breakfast menu here with waffles, omelettes, and eggs Benedict, and the setting overlooking the leafy courtyard of the mall is gorgeous.

Go French at L’Omelette, a cute breakfast spot with egg-shaped tables and walls lined with decorated eggshells (they love a theme!).

If you’re on the go, you’ll always be only a few feet away from a traditional bakery for a fresh concha, or seek out my favorite, Roots Panaderia, for flaky croissants and warm pastries.

Afternoon

I can’t quite remember the number of times I ate at Sarajevo Café Jardin – it’s that inviting. They serve all day from breakfast through to dinner though I find the lunch/brunch hours to be the best.

The large patio is a true oasis with plenty of space to hang or work from your laptop. You’ll definitely notice more expats here.

Choose from a wide array of bowls, ceviches, pizzas, sandwiches, etc. and a full breakfast menu too and settle in for a while.

The back area has even a fireplace and couches to lounge on, a home away from home sort of.

You’ll notice the impossibly pretty entrance before the nearly hidden restaurant sign of Nostalgia “sabor istmeño”. Walk all the way to the back to find it and its Oaxacan-inspired Mexican cuisine.

Homemade passion fruit kombucha with a veggie tlayuda is a light summery lunch that’s only missing the sound of crashing Pacific waves to be perfect.

Pass a tattoo studio and a quaint bookshop before finding yourself in the peaceful courtyard of Astro Café. You can fully unwind and restore with a Buddha bowl or other nutrient-rich menu items surrounded by lush greenery.

Tiny La Tlacoyería could easily be missed but their tlacoyos are worth seeking them out. The traditional, oval-shaped Mexican street food is made of thick blue corn masa, stuffed with beans, and topped with nopales (cactus), salsa and cheese for a filling lunch.

Another quick and flavor-packed option is Achiote Cochinita Pibil for delectable cochinita pibil tacos & gringas. Get a glass of horchata de tescalate, a local speciality with toasted cocoa, achiote, and corn.

Although originally from the state of Jalisco, I’ll never say no to quesabirria tacos and Que Buena Birria delivers. It’s the kind of tiny hole in the wall that packs a punch and everything from the homemade tortillas to the rich consomé was extremely flavorful. You’ll need a good hand wash after that one…

Need a snack in between meals? May I recommend an esquite at Elotes y Esquites, Hijos del Maíz. Corn kernels sautéed in butter and mixed with mayo, lime juice, chili powder, and cotija cheese are served in the husk, way easier to eat than off the cob and soooo delicious!

Casa de Willy is perfect for a quick and filling lunch of your Mexican favorites at very affordable prices, think large tortilla soups and simple tacos.

More soups await at El Caldero with massive steaming bowls of everything from pozole to hearty chicken soups with chipilin (a local green a bit similar to spinach) and corn. Whatever you pick, you’ll be full for the rest of the day with all the toppings and tortilla chips – a go-to on a cold and rainy day.

Although we’re not on the coast, you can easily satisfy your seafood cravings at De Mi Puerto. Their aguachile con salsa negra was a dream.

Pastry shop Chopeado has cakes and cookies for your sweet tooth and is a great place to try the local specialty of Tascalate – a traditional, pre-hispanic drink from Chiapas made from a powder of toasted corn, cocoa, achiote (hence the red color), cinnamon, and pine nuts, mixed with water or milk and served cold. It’s earthy and frothy and is a great afternoon pick me up.

For more caffeine (since this is the coffee city after all), you can’t go wrong with an affogato. Many places serve them, but sneaking into the intimate enclave of Libre Café with its climbing vines and antique furniture will make it taste better I swear.

Evening

Drinks in a shaded courtyard don’t get better than at La Espirituosa where you can also participate in a tasting of their Mexican liqueurs. It’s the best place to sample the local specialty of posh (or pox), a corn-based spirit from Chiapas often flavored with fruits or cacao or coffee. On a hot afternoon, I highly recommend their tamarind Michelada.

For people-watching, head to the leafy food court of Esquina San Agustín and perch yourself at one of the many bars and restaurants.

If you like a microbrewery, Jules has tasting flights of their top sellers in a chill courtyard. The crowds descend later in the evening so late afternoon is the perfect time to savor the craft beers and check out the hidden gallery at the back.

Find more beers if you can locate the hidden entrance to Cervecería Naufragio – the place for a buzzy night out. The popular microbrewery is always packed with locals and serves delicious wood fired pizzas.

A local IPA and a perfectly charred Margherita…what more can you ask for?

Switch to cocktails with views at the rooftop bar Ginger Lab, hidden up in a colorful building.

Expertly crafted drinks come with free snacks and sunset views over the entire city, a definite must for any cocktail fan.

Catch a different angle of the sunset from the terrace of La Charcu.

The meat-heavy menu specializes in homemade smoked sausages and charcuterie which go down really well with one of their artisanal beers. I’d recommend ending your meal with a Carajillo – the Spanish cocktail is a favorite here and found in many places due to San Cristóbal love of coffee. The mix of espresso shaken with Licor 43 and ice might just become my new after-dinner drink.

Go traditional at El Fógon De Jovel, a local restaurant that has been around for decades right by the cathedral. Cooks and waiters are all proudly wearing their indigenous attire and you’ll likely have musicians in the room as well for a festive and colorful evening.

Try any of the mole dishes, a specialty of the house, such as the chiapas mole – chicken stewed in chocolate and chiles, garnished with cacao nibs and sesame seeds.

If it’s seafood you’re craving, head to Kala-mar for more ceviche options than you can imagine and refreshing drinks in a cool ambiance.

Get introduced to the typical cuisine of the Chiapas at Belil Sabores de Chiapas.

A truly local menu, my cocktail was made of Pox, hibiscus and ginger and my appetizer was crema de chipilin (the local spinach).

Main dish was Pescado en hoja de mumu – a local fish wrapped in hierba santa leaves and steamed.

However long you stay in San Cris, the one dinner you absolutely can’t miss is at Comal Cocina de Barro. The humble eatery welcomes you with mismatched furniture, an open kitchen, a simple handwritten menu on the wall and the owner/chef’s warm greetings. Eating here is a truly memorable experience both for your palate and the magic of simple, time-honored techniques and ingredients.

A wood-fired comal presides over the dining room with chef David cooking away understated tetelas, sopes, or quesadillas, tender vehicle for his superlative salsas. You can taste the heirloom corn and tomatoes sweetened by the sun in every bite.

Homemade cotija cheese ice cream with grilled plantains ends a superb meal with more local flavors in their purest form. When you’re done, no bill makes it to your table, you’re simply expected to calculate your own tab with the menu board and drop your cash in a wicker basket – it truly is all about the food here, how very special.

Get a bit fancy at El Secreto Cocina Artesanal, an inviting hidden gem that blends local ingredients with modern techniques.

Grab a mezcal cocktail in the warmly lit room and pick from an elevated menu of modern Mexican. I loved their tinga, shredded chicken simmered in a smoky, slightly spicy sauce and served with homemade corn tostadas.

You’ll find an enchanting courtyard at the end of an illuminated hallway at Tarumba.

Sip delicious cocktails (mezcal for me, always) and indulge in rich ancestral cooking in this very romantic setting. My black rabbit in cacao sauce with sun-dried tomato salsa and sweet potato puree was exquisite.

Biscocho de tescalate filled with dulce de leche with a pear and red wine sauce was an equally seductive ending.

When you want to treat yourself to a special meal in a stately home, it’s hard to beat Tierra y Cielo. Besides having to decide what to eat from the menu of exceptional Chiapas cuisine, you’ll also have a hard time picking where to sit between the mission-style dining room with wood-beam ceilings…

…and the cozy courtyard.

Every detail from the attentive service to the custom plates made by a local potter contributes to the flawless experience.

It is true that you eat with your eyes first and the works of edible art served here are certainly proof, from the delicate amuse-bouche to the lacy chicharron de queso.

The mole de chipilin was another knockout and my only regret was to not have enough room for dessert because I’m sure it would have been sumptuous. Definitely a meal to close out whatever time you were able to spend in tasty and charming San Cris.

As a UNESCO Creative City, San Cristóbal de las Casas has a vibrant art scene that is woven into everyday life. Besides crafts and galleries, street art is widespread, especially in the historic center, and seen as much as a form of resistance as of communication.

In a city known for its rebellious spirit and deep, indigenous roots, murals often reflect Chiapas’s indigenous culture and especially women, Zapatista (EZLN) history, jaguars, agricultural symbols like corn, and social struggles.

They often feature slogans emphasizing social justice, human rights, and the rejection of discrimination.

Coca-Cola and San Cristóbal

Another ubiquitous theme you’ll spot everywhere including in art galleries is Coca-Cola. It’s a long story and one the locals won’t be shy to discuss with you so I’ll just briefly sum it up here to explain the brand’s contradictory role in the city.

While it has created jobs, the local Coca-Cola plant which is one of the biggest in Mexico has sadly also caused much harm. With climate change (it rains less) and urbanization, demand for safe drinking water has steadily increased in San Cristóbal but not the supply. A decades-old government concession allows Coca-Cola to extract most of it for its bottling operations, leaving the town’s inhabitants without enough potable water. You’ll notice most street art representing Coca-Cola as a water thief…

Add to this the subsidies offered by the beverage behemoth and the other sad truth is that a bottle of Coca-Cola is almost always cheaper than a bottle of water across the region. This compounding effect eventually made the locals the biggest drinkers of Coca-Cola in the world, ingesting just over 2 liters a day (!), to the point that health officials had to declare a diabetes emergency.

It’s no surprise then to see the many campaigns around town against the power and influence of Coca-Cola which has also diverted spring water away from crops vital to the region. Farmers often have to use raw sewage water to irrigate their fields which inevitably leads to more undesirable health outcomes. Tourists need to be aware that any food purchased at the market needs to be thoroughly washed with a chemical solution to get rid of the rampant E. coli, something I religiously did for the whole time I was there.

Closely related, the other prevalent imagery all over town is the Three Naughty Monkeys who actively seek out and amplify negativity.

Colorful & diverse walls

You can spend days exploring the center and every little streets to discover unexpectedly more of the vibrant murals.

Some are clearly very recent with their bright colors while other have started to fade and crumble – a sign that this mode of artistic expression and still alive and well.

Intricate patterns form a genre all of their own, with entire blocks filled with a mosaic of shapes and animals to be decoded.

Local artists like Teraz have a distinct style you’ll easily recognize and their own gallery so you can bring a piece of their art back with you.

Revolutionary hero Emiliano Zapata also makes numerous appearances, a testament to his impact on all disenfranchised groups here and around the world.

This beautiful Pueblo Mágico is a little-known gem of southern Mexico that invites you to slow down and embrace the country’s rich indigenous culture. Swaddled by the Chiapas mountains, the highland town of San Cristóbal is the epicenter of one of Mexico’s most ethnically diverse areas, with many locals still deeply in touch with their Mayan roots.

It’s a charming city of adobe walls, clay tiles, and beautiful colonial architecture that has been preserved in its historic center over the centuries.

Far from the tourist trail (it’s a bit of a pain to get to), quirky expats and adventurous backpackers live alongside locals in this boho haven. The atmosphere is peaceful and ideal for those who like to wander hilly cobblestone streets and sample traditional daily life at an unhurried pace.

The temperate climate is ideal for exploring, with chilly mornings followed by always bright and sunny afternoons. Stroll around its downtown streets and plazas to admire the architecture and shop some of the best locally-made handicrafts and textiles in all of Mexico.

You’ll hit a coffee shop at every corner, another delightful way to slow down your walking tour as Chiapas produces the best coffee I’ve had in all of Mexico.

A slice of local life in the north

Mix shopping with stunning architecture at the 16-century Templo de Santo Domingo surrounded by a sprawling artisanal market. The most beautiful church in San Cristóbal is especially striking in the golden hour when the baroque facade glows in all its carved stucco splendor.

Don’t miss the excellent Centro de Textiles del Mundo Maya housed in the former monastery attached to the west side of the church. Discovering the rich traditional textiles made in the region was a highlight of my time there. The museum shop carries some of the most exquisite souvenirs you’ll want to take home, from intricate wall hangings to embroidered bed covers and placemats.

The artisanal thread expands throughout the surrounding streets with leather and shoe stores leading you further north toward the heart of the neighborhood.

You’ll hear the buzz of the mercado municipal before stumbling upon the lively place. I visited this market several times during my month-long stay to buy fresh fruits, vegetables, dried beans and herbs as much as to soak up the vibrant atmosphere with nary another foreigner in sight.

It’s a wonderful immersion into the different ethnic communities coming down from nearby villages every day to sell their products, filling the market with Mayan dialects and traditional attire. You’ll easily recognize the Tzotzil women with their long black furry skirts made from the thick, hairy wool of local sheep and often paired with embroidered sashes.

Heirloom beans made for an easy and colorful meal and how could anyone resist the small and impossibly sweet Ataulfo mangoes that originated here.

The indoor hall is where you’ll find all the meat, dairy and bread vendors alongside everyday items and affordable food counters.

A cultural introduction in the east

Get a deep dive into the heart of Chiapas at the Na Bolom Museum (or “House of the Jaguar”). This former home and research center of a Danish archeologist and Swiss photographer and anthropologist couple gives you an unparalleled view into the lives and traditions of one of Mexico’s most unique indigenous groups – the Lacandón Maya. You’ll see evocative black and white photographs and original artifacts of their way of life deeply connected to nature as you wander around this gorgeous property.

A mural of the famous couple, Frans and Gertrude Blom, is the focal point of the interior courtyard where you’ll also find a restaurant to stretch your time in this tranquil retreat.

A stroll through the community garden where medicinal herbs and fruits are still grown includes a traditionally built Maya hut. It gives an idea of the typical living quarters of the most isolated communities of Chiapas.

You’ll find inside the colonial Spanish-style mansion many of the original decorations, furniture, and one of the most comprehensive private libraries in Mexico dedicated to Maya culture, Mesoamerican archaeology, and the anthropology and ecology of Chiapas. 

A few blocks south, don’t be shy to peek into Taller Leñateros, a local publishing collective that will be more than happy to show you around and explain how they recycle paper into beautiful prints, books, and cards.

Using only natural dyes and fibers, indigenous artists create colorful and sustainable art which they sell in the shop to help protect their traditions and culture – another original place to buy souvenirs!

Nearby Galería MUY will give you a taste of contemporary art by Maya and Zoque people and insights into the many social justice themes you’ll see throughout the region, such as exploitative industries (Coca-Cola is everywhere – more on that later) and spiritual ecology.

Churches with views

The best views in town require climbing up one of the surrounding hills to reach a colonial church, the most beautiful one being Iglesia de Guadalupe. Located at the end of the iconic Real de Guadalupe, the white and yellow catholic church sits on top of 80 stairs and will reward your efforts with stunning views and a new perspective of the city.

Time your visit with the sunset to see the golden orb slowly disappear behind the mountains and the barrio de Guadalupe start to twinkle with evening lights – beautiful.

On the opposite side of the city, more hills and viewpoints await.

There are 240 steps here to climb through switchbacks to reach the tiny church of San Cristóbalito, often referred to as El Cerrito, built at the end of the 18th century.

You get a more central view of the city from the top of the stairs, and a very pleasant walk down with street art adorning the side walls.

Amber delight in the south

When you come down from El Cerrito, you’re just a few minutes walk away from Plaza de la Merced – my favorite park in the city. A much quieter alternative to the main plaza, you can park yourself on a bench and watch local life goes by with distant views of the surrounding mountains.

Adjoining the park, a former convent now houses the Amber Museum which was a huge surprise and one of my favorite museums in San Cristóbal.

Chiapas has one of the three largest amber deposits in the world and the mountains around San Cristóbal are one of the only places red amber can be found. 

I learned so much going through the atmospheric building, like that amber is the most characteristic gem of Chiapas and was used throughout history as offering protection for medicinal purposes, to produce amulets, jewelry and art objects. 

There are detailed explanations and videos about real vs fake amber, how it’s made underground and why it’s often found with dead insects inside of it.

The museum features more than 350 pieces of this fossilized resin, both raw and carved by artisans with some really remarkable works of art you’ll marvel at. The gift shop at the entrance is also an excellent place for souvenirs, guaranteeing authenticity (not always the case if you shop the local markets!) with small jewelry making for very unique and local gifts.

Meandering through old-world magic

By far the best thing to do in San Cristóbal is to aimlessly wander at a slow pace and fully take in the incredibly enchanting setting. With hilly streets opening views to a charming pastoral scenery at every corner, the town sums up the romanticized highland life of Mexico.

Pastel colored homes and rainbow painted city buildings lined the cobbled streets, instantly boosting your mood if the ever present waft of roasting coffee beans hadn’t already.

With no crowds to squeeze through like in other big cities, you’ll forget all about stress and start to amble at the same pace as the locals, sharing smiles with perfect strangers and wishing you could bottled up that serene feeling.

Old Spanish houses open into gorgeous interior courtyards, now charming boutique hotels and intimate restaurants.

Eventually your feet will inevitably bring you back to the main drag of calle Real de Guadalupe, the center of the social life.

The pedestrianized street is filled with coffee shops, wine bars, and all kinds of eateries, forming the only proper “downtown buzz” if we can call it that! You’ll likely spend many hours at any time of day sitting at an outside table people-watching, seeing familiar faces. Unassuming entrances lead to shopping malls with small galleries, craft stores, and food stands bulking up your options for eating and shopping.

The afterwork crowd mingle at sunset as temperature drops. Indigenous sellers pound the cobblestones, their arms filled with colorful textiles, perfect to wrap around your chilled body as you slowly fall for this most magical of pueblos.