Blog - Flying Fourchette

Eataly part I – Le Verdure

August 30, 2011

Now celebrating its one year anniversary, the massive Italian food hall that is Eataly is still going strong. The masses that filled the 50,000-square-foot space even months after its opening had scared me off queuing in line to eat in one of the five sit-down restaurants. I decided to pay another visit recently at lunchtime as my office is nearby and was pleasantly surprised to find the craziness had subsided (or it might be that everyone’s gone on holidays this time of year!).

I opted to start my exploration of Eataly’s infatuation with a lunch at veggie-centric Le Verdure – the least visited, though most creative offering.

A few empty tables made for a more peaceful lunch, though you still can’t shake the feeling that you are in some sort of busy mall (albeit one I would get lost in everyday if I could)! We got seated immediately for the start of a very pleasant meal…

The bread came wrapped in brown butcher paper and they quickly brought us a dipping bowl filled with olive oil. The bread was dense and moist, perfect snack as I was starving right about then!

I ordered the Piatto Misto which is a sampling of various menu items: here the soup of the day (tomato and bread), the Pinzimonio (raw vegetable salad with lemon vinaigrette and sea salt), a farro salad, and the Fritto Misto (crisp, tempura-like seasonal vegetables fried in extra virgin olive oil). Both the Fritto Misto and Pinzimonio were fantastic; so simple and yet the quality of the ingredients made them some of the most flavorful side dishes I’ve had. I was slightly disappointed by the soup, which although very tasty was overtly salty – such a shame when the motto of the place is to let the vegetables shine!

Grilled warm summer vegetables were served with a light, delicious farro salad in a dish called Verdure alla Piastra. The colors and variety of vegetables (think cranberry beans, radicchio, asparagus, radishes, baby zucchini, sweet peppers, and about every color of cauliflower I know of) cooked to perfection make this a must try.

This is refreshing, filling food that makes you feel healthy and wish you could grow such tasty veggies on your New York windowsill. We were surprisingly full after lunch and despite having to walk past many temptations on our way out (Gelateria, Pasticceria, etc.) we went straight back to work with a satisfied smile on our face… we knew we’d be back for more!

Le Verdure (Eataly)
200 Fifth Avenue (near 23rd)
212-229-2560

New York Restaurants

Seersucker

August 28, 2011

Tucked away on a sleepy section of Smith street in Carroll Gardens is Seersucker, a Southern-inspired Brooklyn eatery. I say ‘inspired’ because you won’t find your traditional fare here – this is New Southern cuisine, comfort soul food with a local touch.

Chef/owner Robert Newton (an alum of Tabla and Le Cirque) sources most of its ingredients from local producers, so the menu changes frequently based upon what’s available and in season. You’ll still find your fried chicken, cheese grits and biscuits, but they’ll be taking unexpected turns throughout the year.

The decor is modern, all wood and metal, and a wall of pickling mason jars serves as the barrier between the dining room and the kitchen.

Unlike our usual idea of what Southern cuisine should be like (unhealthy, decadent, overflowing platters of fried everything that are sinfully fun to eat), the food at Seersucker is a quiet and modern spin on traditions.

Spiced duck breast was served over a corn and bean salsa.

Shrimp and grits with country ham and mushrooms

Braised collard greens

All in all food was fine but not that impressive. Might have to do with the price tag which I find a bit extravagant for the portion size and comfort level of the dishes. The atmosphere is laid-back, the service friendly, and the local provenance of most of what’s being offered (including wine and beer) makes it an attractive neighborhood spot, just not a destination. I’ll definitely go back to try the brunch though since I’m a local after all…

Seersucker

329 Smith St.

Brooklyn

Tel: 718-422-0444

Appetizer Recipes Vegetarian

Arancini

August 27, 2011

Arancini means ‘little oranges’ in Italian, though these guys aren’t quite as healthy as a piece of citrus! A national Sicilian emblem, these utterly addicting fried rice balls can be filled with everything from meat ragout, vegetables, cheese, or even something sweet for the non-purists. They’re an excellent way to use leftover risotto or even plain white rice and make for a fun party snack or delectable appetizer.

As it’s still summer and I tend to like my Italian fare on the simple side, I opted for the typical arancini with a cube of mozzarella in the middle. Not what I would call an easy recipe, but believe me when I say the results outweighs the efforts and time put in!

Arancini (adapted from 'Cooking at Home' from the Culinary Institute of America)

3 c leftover cooked risotto
½ c grated Parmesan
2 tbsp heavy cream
2 tbsp minced fresh parsley, chives, oregano, or basil
1 large egg yolk
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
5 oz mozzarella 
Flour for dredging
Egg wash: 1 large egg whisked with 2 tbsp cold milk or water
1 c bread crumbs
Vegetable oil for deep-frying
2 c tomato sauce

In a large bowl, combine the risotto with the Parmesan, cream, herbs, and egg yolk. Season with salt and pepper.

Cut the mozzarella into 16 cubes. After moistening your hands with tepid water, scoop up about 3 tbsp of the risotto mixture and pack it around a cube of cheese to make a ball about the size of a Ping-Pong ball. Repeat to form 16 balls.

Put the flour, egg wash, and bread crumbs in 3 separate bowls. Dredge the risotto balls in the flour, dip in the egg wash, and roll in the bread crumbs. Chill thoroughly, 2-24 hours.

Pour oil into a tall pot to a depth of 5 inches. Heat the oil over medium-high heat until it registers 375°F on a deep-frying thermometer. Deep-fry the risotto balls in batches, without crowding, until they are evenly browned, 4-5 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, transfer to paper towels to drain briefly.

Serve on a pool of warmed tomato sauce and don’t waste time biting into them…you’ll be rewarded with a delicious, gooey filling!

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Dessert Recipes Vegetarian

Peach and Almond Clafoutis

August 24, 2011

Ah, summer peaches…Is there anything more scrumptious in the summertime than devouring a ripe peach and letting it dribble down your chin?

I just couldn’t resist their attraction on my last trip to the Union Square Farmers Market where they reigned over every stalls and came back home with a dozen beauties.

An easy and delicious way to make the most of beautiful summer peaches is with a Clafoutis. A French dessert with a custard-like texture, Clafoutis is one of those simply elegant desserts that never fails to impress and its lightness makes it suitable for any time of day… ideal for a fruit and dessert obsessed like myself!

 Peach and Almond Clafoutis
 (adapted from La cuisine des saisons de Clodine)

 ¼ c roasted almonds
 2 tbsp unsalted butter
 6 peaches, peeled and cut into wedges
 2 tbsp honey
 Pinch of ground nutmeg
 Pinch of ground cinnamon
 4 eggs
 2 tbsp sugar
 1 c milk
 4 tbsp flour
 Powdered sugar

Preheat oven to 350°F.

Roast the almonds over medium heat in a pan with a bit of butter then add the peaches and cook 5-7 minutes with some more butter, the honey, nutmeg, and cinnamon until caramelized.

In the meantime, mix the eggs, sugar and milk in a big bowl. Add the sifted flour to the bowl and stir until just combined. Butter and flour a pie dish and place the caramelized peaches and almonds at the bottom before filling it with the egg mixture.

Bake for 45 minutes or until the mixture is set. Generously sprinkle the clafoutis with powdered sugar while it’s still warm.

Slice and serve warm or at room temperature, on its own or over a bit of slightly sweetened fresh cream.

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Montreal Restaurants

La Distillerie, Montreal

August 23, 2011

La Distillerie is one of my favorite cocktail bars in Montreal – great atmosphere, fresh ingredients and a gigantic menu! Having made the Mason jar its signature, you can expect alcohol in great quantity as well as loads of originality to fill in these giant jars of goodness.

Now with three different locations, we chose the latest installment (N°3) on rue Masson, in the slowly gentrifying neighborhood of Rosemont/Petite-Patrie.

Our first round – would have been the first of many if we didn’t have dinner plans! Here you have two of the Illegal Alien (Cazadores Blanco 100% Agave, Benedictine, lemon juice, pear puree, homemade hibiscus cordial) and a Mad Man (Maker’s Mark, Sailor Jerry, Courvoisier VS, oranges, Regan’s bitters, Peychaud’s bitters, Angostura bitters, simple syrup, brandied cherry).