Montreal Restaurants

Le Bremner, Montreal

August 21, 2011

Le Bremner is the latest venture by popular local chef Chuck Hughes, star of “Chuck’s Day Off” on the Cooking Channel and chef/owner of  Montreal’s famous Garde Manger. Opened only a few weeks ago in Old Montreal, this amazing seafood eatery is already showing signs of becoming Montreal’s newest hot spot.

Launched with no fanfare, no publicity, no website, and not even an indication of its location, Le Bremner was packed and buzzing on a Saturday night when we stopped by (after making reservations a few weeks in advance). The cool, hip and relax atmosphere and the menu of haute comfort seafood are a reminder of why food-obsessed Montrealers have grown to adore Hughes’s approach to upscale dining – it’s fun, inventive, comes with excellent background music and tastes amazing!

Le Bremner - Montreal

No signage other than ‘Restaurant’ alerts pedestrians of the wonders lurking behind the double doors…

Le Bremner

Creamy burrata with sea salt, orange zest and olive oil – this tasty appetizer came with pickled vegetables and homemade chips, yum!

Le Bremner

Raw striped bass with pickled radish, mint and pistachios was a unique and successful take on carpaccio.

Le Bremner

Scallops tartar…simply sublime!

Le Bremner

Oysters of course were a must…one of Chuck’s favorite food and mine as well!

Le Bremner

Duck fat roasted new red potatoes

Le Bremner - Montreal

Gratinees garlic mussels.

Le Bremner

Cornbread with broiled garlic shrimps.

Le Bremner

Asparagus, poached egg and confit tomatoes.

Le Bremner

Last treat of the night…homemade jelly donuts with chocolate, strawberry jam and lemon curd, perfect ending to a perfect meal!

Le Bremner

We ate on the cute covered terrace in the back with its own bar, intimate lighting and loads of leafy plants – the ambiance was spot on. We had cocktails before dinner that were as creative as the food we ate and all homemade (syrups, juices, flavored liqueur, etc.) and the wine list is also pretty comprehensive. I honestly can’t recommend this place highly enough if you’re looking for a top restaurant experience – go now!!

Le Bremner
361 St. Paul East
Montreal, QC H2Y 1H2
514-544-0446
map

 

Montreal Restaurants

Burgundy Lion, Montreal

August 21, 2011

The Burgundy Lion is a modern take on a traditional British Pub with fancier grubs and an impressive whiskey list. Located close to downtown in the Little Burgundy neighborhood, the ambiance is loungey and more relax than your typical pub – a classic Montreal feel.

Burgundy Lion - Montreal

A large terrace greets you at the entrance in the summer but we opted for the smaller, cozier terrace inside. To help soak up the alcohol they offer a familiar and hearty menu of fish and chips, bangers and mash, burgers, and a few more original items such as Manchester curry, samosas, chicken tikka masala, roast beef poutine (obviously!), and cucumber and tuna sandwiches.

We only stopped there for a few drinks and appetizers so I can’t speak for the main dishes but the starters were what you’d expect from this kind of establishment – decent in size, OK in taste, just some good honest food to get you drinking more…! We shared the scotch eggs, vegetarian samosas and Oxfordshire green salad (lettuce, pears, walnuts, stilton) with a few Pimm’s Cups and pints of their own Burgundy Lion Ale.

Burgundy Lion - Montreal

The place gets busy though with the additional terraces in the summer there’s more than enough space for everyone. Overall a good stop for casual drinks with friends and the occasional soccer/hockey game watching in good company.

Burgundy Lion
2496 rue Notre-Dame Ouest
Montreal, Quebec
Telephone: 514-934-0888
map

 

Montreal Restaurants

SwUrl Frozen Yogurt, Montreal

August 21, 2011

There seems to be a craze recently for self-serve frozen yogurt places as witnessed by the multiplication of them in New York city, and it looks like Montreal has caught on it as well with the opening of SwUrl on Crescent street.

Swurl Montreal

The concept is simple – you grab a bowl, fill it up with your frozen yogurt flavors of choice, load on your favorite toppings, weigh it, and pay! There are always 8 flavors being served,  four traditional and four flavors of the week. The traditional flavors are plain, vanilla, chocolate, and pomegranate. When I visited the flavors of the week were green tea, taro, lychee, and raspberry. They have served up some pretty original flavors in the past such as bacon, lucky charms, and sriracha hot sauce so if I’d live nearby I’d make sure to pay a regular visit!

The toppings include the traditional stuff like candies, chocolates, and fresh fruits,  as well as a few surprises like wasabi and ruffles chips! I ate a trio of the pomegranate, lychee and green tea flavors with a sprinkle of crushed sugar cones and fresh raspberries and it was deliciously satisfying for such a healthy treat! The lychee particularly was so fresh and tasty I could have had a second serving.

Swurl Montreal

Located in one of the busiest areas of the city, this place is sure to attract its fair share of attention and I’d recommend anyone visiting Montreal to check it out – it’s a lot of fun!

SwUrl Frozen Yogurt
1464 rue Crescent
Montreal, Quebec, Canada
Telephone: 514-439-8096

 

Americas Peru Travels

Peru: Trek to Machu Picchu

August 20, 2011

Our 4-day trek to Machu Picchu started on a blissfully sunny and crisp day and brought us through the spectacular scenery of the rarely visited Lares Valley. Contrary to the famous Inca Trail, the Lares Trek sees few tourists, in fact we’ve never met another soul and it was fabulous to have the mountains all to ourselves.

Well, not exactly alone as we encountered hundreds of the valley’s inhabitants: llamas, alpacas, goats, sheep, chinchillas, and horses were keeping us company as we hiked up and down their land.

Alpaca

A few traditional farms were set up way up high, subsisting on potato crops and by weaving those gorgeous ponchos and vibrant textiles you see across the country.

Lares Trek

We even got an insight into the lives of Andean farmers when this lovely couple, friends of our trek guide, kindly invited us into their home – a tightly packed square room covered in soot from the tiny fire pit and… tons of guinea pigs running around!

Guinea Pigs

A few curious kids from nearby farms would also sneak in our camp in the early evening, probably rarely seeing such a spectacle of strangers opting to sleep out in the cold nights.

Others would follow our group for a while, leading their herds through the valley, weaving endlessly as they were doing so.

Ask anyone who’s done a trek to Machu Picchu, they’ll all tell you the second day is the worst so prepare yourself for 12 hours of pushing yourself up through the altitude. The landscape is breathtaking as usual which helps…

Here we are with a very fitting mix of exhaustion and pride painted all over our faces, having just reached the highest point on day 2 before everyone else, and savouring a long break before they all join us for the long walk down to camp.

Culinary-wise, this trek far exceeded my greatest expectations and I doubt the food would have tasted as good sitting down at a restaurant in the city. Our cooks were working wonders in the tiny camping kitchen they would set up at every meals and we got treated to wholesome, delicious home style Peruvian multi-course feasts.

Dinners were a celebration in itself as we sought warmth inside the communal tent and relaxed our sore muscles after climbing up 21 km in 10 hours… We’d devour piles of rice, richly stewed alpaca meat, savoury soups, roasted potatoes, freshly-caught river trout, avocado salad, etc. Lunches were a carb lover’s fantasy dream and breakfasts were…eaten fast! Wake-up call at 5am with a cup of boiling coca tea to help those lucky enough to have gotten some sleep in that below freezing temperature. The rest, way too happy another day of trekking was upon us (!) hurried to the table to gulp down deliciously hot quinoa porridge…I swear breakfast has never tasted so good!

Lares Trek meal

The last day saw us waking up even earlier at 3am to queue in line with hundreds of others for the chance to get in first at Machu Picchu. All I’ll say is that all this lack of sleep and intense physical activity got completely erased when we set our eyes on the final prize at sunrise…

Machu Picchu

We weren’t entirely done with our climbing though, as when you make it to Machu Picchu early enough, you can be one of the lucky ones to climb on top of Huayna Picchu which rises over the site. 45 minutes of non-stop scrambling, hiking and climbing with the help of ropes is all you need to get the best views imaginable of Machu Picchu from 1,200ft above.

Back down on the site, you can wander around all day, every way you look offering more stunning sights and history you could possibly managed. So take as much as you can in, and promise yourself as I did you’ll be back one day…as you’ll want to try another way in whether it is via the Inca Trail or another path they’ll surely uncover.

Americas Peru Travels

Peru: Ceviche and Guinea Pig in the Land of the Incas

August 15, 2011

I have something to confess… my trip to Peru was almost solely driven by the desire shared by most visitors to this sacred land – standing in the middle of the Andean mountains and staring in awe at the iconic Machu Pichu.

Little did I know that Peruvian cuisine was also reason enough to visit this culture rich country. A mix of Spanish and Amerindian with strong influences from Italian, African, Chinese, Japanese and Arab cooking, the food in Peru is probably the best example of successful fusion style cuisine I’ve encountered. Have I known that before, I probably would have spent a bit more time savoring it in Lima, also called the ‘Gastronomic Capital of the Americas‘. With little less than a day to spend in the city before hitting our altitude-filled adventure, we luckily managed to sample the local specialty – ceviche!

Ceviche in Lima

Our first meal in Peru was at Brujas de Cachiche, traditional Peruvian restaurant in Lima’s Miraflores neighborhood and recommended by our local connections. The dinner was spot on! A variety of the freshest fish and seafood marinated in lime juice and hot peppers, peruvien ceviche is usually served with the local side dishes of tender corn kernels, avocados, raw onions and sweet potato. Of course, we washed it all down with a glass of frothy pisco sour – can’t think of a better way to erase the day’s long flight and prepare us for what’s ahead!

The following day we landed in Cusco at 3,400m altitude, ready to tackle the diminutive oxygen level as much as further culinary surprises…

Cusco

I can’t say for sure if it was the lack of oxygen, that minor dizziness that affected us, or the after-effects of our first few cups of coca tea, but on our first night in Cusco we pulled an Anthony Bourdain and had a taste of a peculiar local delicacy – a guinea pig!

Guinea Pig in Cusco

Apart from the fact that I’m glad I didn’t have one as an household pet while growing up (!), our roasted guinea pig (or cuy al horno as it’s called here) wasn’t a particularly memorable dish. As cliche as it sounds, its taste was pretty close to dark chicken meat. Guinea pigs used to be reserved for ceremonial meals by indigenous people but are now an important part of the peruvian diet, mainly due to the fact that they are a more profitable source of food and income than many traditional stock animals.

We took a few days to acclimate and relax before our big trek by visiting the Sacred Valley and its charming village of Pisac.

Corn in Pisac

Local women sorting through varieties of corn are a familiar sight in Pisac. Peru’s famous Giant White Corn on the Cob (also know as Imperial Maize on the Cob) is exclusively grown here in the sacred valley.

Pisac Market

Pisac’s famed Sunday market is without a doubt an essential stop when visiting Peru. Hundreds of artisans and farmers’ stalls crowd the central square under the giant pisonay trees, offering the country’s best shopping experience (and best bargain if compared to Cusco!).

Pisac Market

Besides locally grown produce, the market offers the full range of Peruvian artesanía: carved gourds (mates burilados), ceramics, hats, alpaca sweaters and mittens, paintings, antiques, a huge variety of trinkets, and, most of all, weavings and jewelry.

Pisac Market