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Dordogne: Bergerac and a feast in Tremolat

August 7, 2011

Another gorgeous day in Dordogne started with a long drive to drop off one of our friends at the train station in Bergerac. After a quick croissant and cafe au lait in the town’s old square, under the proud stare of Cyrano, we took off on a culinary mission to find the best gastronomic lunch on our way home.

Cyrano de Bergerac

We found it in Le Vieux Logis, an ivy-covered historic hotel with a 1 Michelin Star restaurant in the sleepy town of Trémolat (population 600). Set back two miles from the main road, one could easily miss this tiny French village with only one store, one pizzeria, a church, a bakery, a hotel and two fantastic restaurants…what more do you need?  Once an old tobacco barn, the restaurant oozes rustic charm and elegance and its back garden was the set of a memorable meal…

Le Vieux Logis - Tremolat

There is no à la carte menu for lunch at Le Vieux Logis on weekdays but instead a set 10-course tapas feast served under the linden trees. The chef is well-known for using local produce from the Périgord Noir region, which meant more duck and foie gras for us! The pictures below should give you an idea of how we spent the next 2.5 hours of our day, slowly eating and sipping a nicely chilled bottle of Bergerac Rose… culinary mission accomplished I’d say!

Le Vieux Logis - Tremolat

Le Vieux Logis - Tremolat

Le Vieux Logis - Tremolat

Le Vieux Logis - Tremolat

Le Vieux Logis - Tremolat

Le Vieux Logis - Tremolat

Le Vieux Logis - Tremolat

Le Vieux Logis - Tremolat

Le Vieux Logis - Tremolat

Le Vieux Logis - Tremolat

Europe France Travels

Dordogne: Sarlat, castles, and plenty of ducks!

August 6, 2011

Every year a few hungry girlfriends and I rent a house for a week in Europe. Main destination criteria? There’s got to be a lot of great food and wine to taste! This year, we went back to France since it’s extremely hard to have a disappointing culinary experience in this foodie paradise.

We set our sight on La Dordogne (more precisely the Périgord Noir), a sunny, hilly section of southwestern France that’s filled with fantastic food and wine, more than 1,500 castles, and some of the continent’s most picturesque villages. For anyone even only remotely interested in food, the place not to miss is the charming old town of Sarlat-la-Canéda. Its Saturday market is the most famous in the region and since this is the Dordogne (aka “land of the duck”), you can be sure to find plenty of duck, goose, foie gras as well as other local specialties such as truffles, walnuts, cherries, cheese and anything else you’d expect to find in a French market.

Sarlat

Sarlat’s market is a bustling and colorful scene, spreading from the square shown above (Place de la Liberté) into lots of tiny streets and lanes. We spent hours wandering around and shopping for our food supply of the next few days, making sure we’d get to try all the region’s specialties!

Duck with griottes

One evening I made a Canard aux Griottes with fresh duck legs from the market and alcohol soaked griottes (a type of sour cherries), delicious, especially served with French green beans and my friend’s gratin dauphinois!

Dordogne river

One of the best way to explore the cliffside villages and castles of the Dordogne is to rent a canoe and glide along its namesake river. We got dropped in Vinac and paddled the 17km that seperated us from Beynac, admiring the most stunning strech of the river and taking in the sights of La Roque Gageac (above), the Château de Marqueyssac, the Château de Castelnaud, and countless others.

Peacock - Marqueyssac

A peacock we met while visiting the Jardins de Marqueyssac.

Sunflower field

Provence has its lavender fields…and Dordogne its sunflowers!