One of the most popular day trips from Seoul is to join a tour to the Demilitarized Zone (DMZ) that separates North and South Korea. Anyone with a bit of historical curiosity and penchant for the weird should sign up for this unusual experience which you won’t find anywhere else on earth. Bonus is, most tours will make a stop at one of the beautiful natural sights on the way. I imagine it is to put us in a calm and serene mood before reaching our peculiar destination?

Scenic lakeside stroll

Our tour’s first stop introduced us to beautiful Majang Lake.

Its main attraction is the scenic red suspension bridge that spans the lake.

Walk across the 220 meters until the other side for gorgeous vistas, looking down at your feet occasionally for a thrilling view below.

You’ll be surprised to hear this bridge and tranquil scene was once a fierce battlefield during the Korean War as a defense line against the Chinese allied army…

A lakeside trail hugs the lush greenery all around and gives you more time to enjoy this enchanting landscape.

Reflections in the water hide large groups of fish hanging by the shore.

Imjingak – An offbeat memorial park

Leaving the calming Majang Lake behind, the second stop on the DMZ tour is at the sprawling Imjingak, a park with various monuments dedicated to the 10 million South Koreans separated from their families when the peninsula was divided.

It is no ordinary park when one suddenly notices the heavily mined and guarded 4km-wide buffer known as the Demilitarized Zone that slashes the peninsula across 240km, separating North and South Korea. The electric fences, armies in full battle readiness, and No Photos signs only add to the unease you feel when staring at this strange and divided piece of land. Adding to the weird factor, you can ride the “Peace Gondola” over and back for a bird’s eye view…

A steam train bombed and derailed during the war called “The Last Train Out” has been preserved as evidence of the painful history. The 1,020 bullet holes and bent wheels are a testament to the brutality at the time.

The nearby Freedom Bridge connecting the North and South is where some 13,000 POWs were exchanged in 1953 (and remains off limit, obviously).

There is a visitor center with facilities and a few restaurants where your tour will stop for lunch. You might be tempted to drown your sorrows in a burger at this point (!) but I opted for a local cold bean soup with noodles and cucumbers, a dish as unfamiliar as my surroundings. Never had cold soy milk broth before… Surely this would have been more welcome on a hot summer day, but the kimchi was delish.

With a bit of free time post-lunch, you can explore more of the grounds which contain other memorials…

…and a sculpture park? Yes, giant, brightly colored works of art are spread across a hilly section of the park, displaying cheerful and hopeful messages.

Unification Bridge

Back on the tour, you need to get your passport ready for ID verification as you cross the Unification Bridge to enter the Civilian Control Line. Interesting fact: you’ll see a life-sized plastic cow at the beginning of the bridge which is also called the “cow bridge”. Hyundai’s founder was originally from North Korea and succeeded in escaping by selling one of his father’s cows that he stole. He later returned in 1988, crossing on this bridge, with a convoy of 1,001 cows to repay his debt to his father…

3rd infiltration tunnel

Four tunnels dug by North Korea for infiltration purposes have been found as of today running under the DMZ.

You can visit the 3rd one if you can handle a very claustrophobic and long walk down this 73m deep and 265m long tunnel. You’ll be given a hard hat and even with that I bumped my head a few times, so low was the ceiling. No cameras (or any belongings beside water) were allowed so you’ll have to try and picture what it was like…an interesting and physical walk!

Looking over North Korea

The final stop is the Dora Observatory.

The rooftop terrace is lined with binoculars, giving you a voyeuristic glimpse into the Democratic People’s Republic of Korea (aka North Korea). Within eyesight is the Propaganda Village, technically in the DMZ but on the North Korea side. It’s called this way by South Korea because virtually all the buildings are believed to be empty or just facades with the primary feature the North Korean flag perched on a 160m high-tower.

On a clear day you may also discern the city of Kaesong and distant little moving dots, people working the farms and walking in the villages.

Then it’s back to Seoul. After visiting such a sinister and surreal place you’ll surely have many more questions but you’ll be glad to have gotten this rare insight into the history and ongoing reality of the Korean Peninsula’s division.

Home to luxury high-rises, upscale boutiques and a lively nightlife, Gangnam is where you go to have fun… and spend money! The neighborhood hugs the south side of the Han River (Gangnam literally means “South of the River”) and welcomes you with dazzling lights and luxury labels everywhere you look. Get off at Samseong (World Trade Center Seoul) subway stop which will put you right in front of COEX Mall – one of the largest underground shopping malls in Asia.

Make an obligatory stop at the “Gangnam Style” statue, an homage to the song by PSY that made the neighborhood famous all over the world. You only need to stick around for a few minutes to witness a line forming of tourists wanting their picture taken while performing the song’s classic dance moves beneath the statue.

For me though the star of the mall was undoubtedly the Starfield Library.

It’s truly a visual masterpiece with towering bookshelves reaching up to 13 meters high and cleverly designed nooks for reading or simply admiring the stunning architecture. It’s open to everyone and so inviting you’ll want to pick up one of the 50,000 books or magazines and soak in the atmosphere of this book lovers’ paradise.

Elevated shopping

Head west to reach Gangnam-daero (road), Gangnam’s main boulevard and most popular shopping and dining area. Quite a few big brands have their flagship stores here. You’ll inevitably get an introduction to Korean pop culture by visiting Kakao Friends and other character-based souvenir stores. Make a point to pop into Samsung and go up the many levels of their immersive store to discover and play with their latest electronics.

There’s even a trendy cafe with special drinks and a themed photo studio for all your selfie needs…

Once you’ve done a few of the big stores, step out of the loud main street and into the trendy and quieter Garosu-gil area. Meaning “tree-lined street”, here you can peacefully stroll under gingko trees and browse boutique shops, cafes and galleries minus the buzzing traffic of downtown Gangnam.

Fine dining

The area is also home to several high-end and celebrated restaurants (there are a few Michelin-starred establishments within a few blocks radius) and I chose to break my day with a leisurely lunch at Soigné (2 Michelin stars).

What a delightful lunch it was – a tasting menu of contemporary Korean cuisine with western techniques and thoughtful wine pairing. The service was impeccable and the small dining room very relaxed despite the fine dining pedigree. I also enjoyed the fixed iPad displaying the menu and additional details about the wine pairings, very clever.

More glam in Apgujeong

Walk off the multi-course meal through the “Beverly Hills” of Seoul – Apgujeong, a glitzy pocket of Gangnam.

The center of Seoul’s fashion world, Rodeo Street with its luxury stores also crosses with the famous K-Star Road. Try to locate all 17 toy statues representing popular K-pop groups while popping in and out of high-end boutiques.

Even if you don’t intend to throw a few thousands out for a piece of clothing or jewelry, step inside Seoul’s most prestigious department store Galleria for some eye candy and just to be dazzled.

When you’ve had your fill of retail experiences, walk just a few blocks north of the Galleria towards the river for an artful surprise found in… a nondescript pedestrian tunnel!

The Apgujeong Graffiti Tunnel is one of the few places in Korea where young street artists are authorized by the local government to draw graffiti.

You can spot a myriad of vibrant art forms along the tunnel which allows pedestrians to safely pass beneath the busy highway to reach the Han River.

At the end of it, the Han River and a clear view of the Seoul you’ve been exploring for the past few days. You can follow the trail along the river for a bit and keep on admiring the views from different riverside parks, or go back to Gangnam for a night of feasting and drinking!

This is probably my favorite day itinerary in Seoul as it packs in modern art, city life, traditional culture, and a hike in nature all in a wonderful (albeit long!) day. Start in the leafy neighborhood of Itaewon with a superlative green tea at Osulloc Tea House. This branch of the Jeju-based tea grower and producer is as artsy and rejuvenating as the area surrounding it.

Plan at least an hour just to wander around the commercial Itaewon-ro artery and venturing up any tempting side streets that hug the side of Namsan mountain in the back. You’ll stumble upon cool clothing and design shops (don’t miss the Yongsan Art & Craft Center), unique architecture, international eateries and the highest concentration of coffee shops I’ve seen in Seoul.

Stop by the Blue Square, if not to catch a performance at least to take a look at Book Park, its cafe/gallery/bookstore…

…two story filled with books stacked on never-ending shelves makes for a pretty special sight especially for any bibliophile.

Mixing traditional and contemporary art at the Leeum Museum

Another visual marvel awaits a few blocks away at the Leeum Museum of Art, one of Korea’s leading private museums. Spend time on the art terrace admiring the monumental steel sculpture by Anish Kapoor and the three main buildings designed by star architects to distinguish between the traditional and contemporary collections.

Beautifully laid out, it’s a joy to walk across all three distinct sections, admiring as much the art on display as the buildings themselves.

The big draw is M2, the contemporary wing made of rusted stainless-steel by Jean Nouvel. It showcases early and mid-century paintings, sculptures, and contemporary installations by esteemed Korean and international artists.

Immersive village tour

A quick subway ride will transport you to the other side of Namsan Mountain (you’ll get your exercise soon enough) and at the door of Namsangol Hanok Village.

Located in a park at the foot of the mountain, this recreated village of historical Korean buildings provided the perfect backdrop for a peaceful afternoon walk.

Follow the lush paths curving around ponds and clusters of buildings and sneak into courtyards for the real immersion of the village. Contrary to the private nature of Bukchon Village which is still occupied, here you can freely roam around five different traditional houses which have been relocated here from different parts of Seoul.

All the little details have been included to give you a sense of how the upper class lived in the Joseon Dynasty, from home decor to practical tools and original furniture.

The village is refreshingly crowd-free and you’ll see locals just taking their daily walk since it’s free entry – what a lovely place to decompress!

Native plants and trees add to the authenticity of the place and water channels have also been carved out following the way people used to access water back in the days.

Backyards (or the likes of) held small gardens and most importantly large numbers of pots holding precious kimchi…

Time to get your glucose levels up as this was just the warm up before the day’s real exercise. For a late afternoon snack within a short distance you could do worst than pop into the vegan donut shop Overte.

A strong coffee paired with a black sesame cream donut was just what I needed.

A hike to Seoul’s best views

Namsan Park is the largest park in Seoul and popular for hiking, the N Seoul Tower, and panoramic views of downtown Seoul. There is a cable car that can bring you to the top in a few minutes but the walk up is lovely and fairly easy. Try to go towards the end of the day to catch the sunset from the tower at the top. Just walk towards the park and you’ll see steps leading up near the cable car station (the ones I took were in the parking lot of the Seoul Education Research & Information Institute).

The pedestrian path and stairs wind through greenery and offer views of the city as you start climbing up.

Soon you’ll have your goal right in front of you: the iconic N Seoul Tower.

You’ll finally reach the summit after about 30 minutes or so of walking and now stand in the geological center of Seoul.

The peak of Namsan is at 262 meters (860 feet) and you’ll get some pretty good views of the city from the wide terrace.

Go up in the tower though to gain an extra 237 meters (777 feet) in altitude and 360 views from the observation deck.

Try to time your visit with the sunset if you can for a spectacular panorama. There are a few restaurants (including one in the tower) and food stalls at the summit to kill time and watch dusk fall over the metropolis.

Once you’ve seen the city lights turn Seoul into a sea of twinkling stars, you can walk back down or take the cable car down and a short walk to the nearest subway station.

Once you’ve seen the palaces and wandered around the historic streets of Bukchon, it’s great to shake off the traditional side of the city by venturing east for a different perspective. Nothing could offer a greater contrast to the previous days than laying your eyes on the neo-futuristic Dongdaemun Design Plaza & Park.

Visually stunning from every angle, the curvaceous spaceship-looking complex was designed by the late Zaha Hadid and is straight out of your sci-fi fantasies. This is the one building in Seoul you must absolutely visit and it’s pretty easy to get to. Wander around its different levels to find galleries, event spaces, shops, museums and lawns that afford sleek views of this aluminum and concrete architectural gem.

The park is more a continuation of the design than a city park where one could relax and sit down. There are interesting ruins that were found during the excavation of the site including archeological remains from the Joseon Dynasty (which explains the lack of benches and picnic areas!).

Walk a few minutes north from the plaza to see Heunginjimum, the restored Great East Gate which was part of Seoul’s City Wall during the Joseon Dynasty.

A walk along Seoul’s old City Wall

Keep walking to reach Heunginjimun Park and the entrance to the City Wall hike up to Naksan Park.

It’s a fairly easy climb up along a section of Seoul’s ancient defensive wall from the 14th century and there’s plenty of scenic views along the way. In about 30 minutes you will have reached the top of Naksan mountain, the smallest of Seoul’s four mountains, and there’s plenty of trendy cafes right next to the trail as you go up.

Look back to see the modern capital that has sprung up outside the walls since.

The hilltop of Naksan has a few paths and observation decks for more views of the city below.

Artful stroll in Ihwa Village

You could continue to follow the wall hike from there (it goes on for another 11 miles if you wish to complete it!) or retrace your steps to explore the small Ihwa Village that spreads down the eastern side of the slope. Like many similar neighborhoods around the world, this used to be an area that had fallen behind and got revitalized in the 2000s with colorful murals from local artists.

It’s a fun and peaceful walk down following stairways and labyrinthine streets looking for art around every corner.

Traditional feast in Gwangjang Market

With all this walking, you’ll be ready for a feast and nowhere else would it be as memorable as tasting your way through Seoul’s famous Gwangjang Market.

The massive traditional market is now best known’s as Seoul’s busiest food hall thanks to the hundreds of food stalls that have settled amid the fabric and dry goods wholesalers. The atmosphere is intoxicating as are the smells coming from hot food vendors, kimchi sellers, and fresh seafood suppliers.

You can certainly follow your eyes and nose and eat your way through the alleyways, squeezing on benches at any of the tempting vendors’ stalls. Or I would recommend you book a food tour (there are several on sites like Get Your Guide or Airbnb Experiences) to get a wider introduction to Korea’s traditional snacks and dishes.

From mung-bean pancakes and mangu (Korean dumplings) to bibimbap and all the kimchi, there’s a world of deliciousness for foodies and bites you’ll likely won’t get a chance to try anywhere else.

Adventurous eaters shouldn’t miss trying sannakji, raw octopus tentacles that still wriggle on the plate and in your mouth. The trick is to chew them quickly before they can attach to the inside of your mouth, or even worse, your throat. People have died choking on these so use caution! They are tasty and worth seeking since they’re so fresh and usually only lightly dressed with salt and sesame oil.