The undisputed charms of Cartagena’s old town hold most visitors captive for the length of their stay – a real shame as they’re missing out on the equally delightful and more authentic version of the city in Getsemani. The formerly seedy neighborhood is just a 10-minute stroll outside the city walls and is quickly becoming one of Latin America’s newest hotspots, its streets vibrant with art, cool restaurants, and a nightlife worth traveling for.

There are no major sights or museums to see here, the attraction is Getsemani itself whose charms take place out in the open and where locals still outnumber tourists.

Ok there is maybe one famous landmark in the popular Cuban salsa club Cafe Havana where weekend crowds pack the floor and surrounding sidewalks to hear the talented house band (and where once a visiting Hillary Clinton famously danced the night away…).

The new generation is revitalizing the neighborhood, reclaiming public spaces and renovating crumbling buildings into boutique hotels and creative restaurants.

The colors are punchier than in the old town, affirming the renaissance and younger vibe of Getsemani, popular with backpackers and street artists.

Animal-shaped door knockers add a playful touch to houses and hotels.

Gritty streets lead to manicured blocks in beautiful patterns.

Calle de la Sierpe is especially stunning with the highest concentration of street art along its sinuous stretch.

Street art on Calle 25

For a taste of local, hearty food, the neighborhood favorite is La Casa de Socorro.

The menu showcases Cartagena’s Caribbean heritage with seared seafood, homey stews and fresh squeezed lemonade (try the coconut one).

Shrimps in garlic sauce with patacones (fried plantain slices)

Mote de queso (yam and Costeño cheese soup)

Nearby Plaza del Pozo, named after the water well at its center, is a picturesque and calm oasis perfect for sitting on one of its benches and watching the Getsemani life pass by.

A few amusing sculptures adorn the plaza.

Side streets immerse you even more into the locals’ lives, most of them catching a breeze on the sidewalks with their children playing around.

Residents and shop owners are found gossiping in plastic chairs.

Whichever way you decide to ‘get lost’ in Getsemani, you’ll inevitably end up at Plaza Trinidad, the natural hub of the neighborhood. Day and night sees locals gathering here, munching on arepas and hot dogs and downing cold beers from the corner store for the best people watching you’ll ever get around here.

Sundays transform the plaza into a mini football tournament. 

My favorite spot stands at the corner of the plaza with full view of the action – Demente. The two-year old trendy bar opens its doors at night, placing rocking chairs on the sidewalk and serving inside delicious tapas and creative cocktails in a super hip space.

Tons of old mansions have been turned into chic boutique hotels such as Casa Lola, one of the first to open in the neighborhood a few years ago.

The renovated 17th century building has a chic boho feel with plenty of natural touches, a private art collection, and two swimming pools.

Breakfast is served in the peaceful courtyard every morning.

Two rooftop pools allow you to take a break from the intense heat and get a special view of the city.

From Getsemani, it’s a short walk to another of Cartagena’s major sight – El Castillo de San Felipe de Borajas. The imposing fort can be seen from afar and is worth a visit for its historical value and the lovely views of the city.

Get the audioguide and climb to the different sections, getting a fascinating glimpse into Cartagena’s colonial past along the way.

You’ll walk along massive walls, take underground tunnels and learn about the various attacks the city had to face.

Back in Getsemani, the contrasting modernity of the Convention Center marks a visual border and the end of the neighborhood.

It houses a wonderful restaurant, Marea by Rausch, with a killer location right by the water and a focus on seafood (as shown on their aquamarine decor).

Octopus carpaccio

House specialty of baked local fish with herb crust, garlic mashed potatoes, and grenobloise garnish

The elegant setting doesn’t feel very ‘Getsemani’ but is nevertheless a steal for the quality of the food, the view, and proving that getting out of Cartagena’s old town is an absolute must.

Perfect for a spontaneous Caribbean weekend, Cartagena de Indias (more commonly called simply ‘Cartagena’) has the laid-back feel of your favorites sunny getaways and a historic walled city sure to surpass your highest expectations. This must-see destination has remained somewhat off the mainstream vacation radar of the general population but things are changing, the security warnings have long been lifted off, and the city has perfected that luscious mix of a fab food scene, cool new shops and hotels, and vibrant cultural heritage all against the dreamiest of backdrop.

Cartagena has the most extensive fortifications in South America and the historic center within its walls is where you’ll spend most of your time. The official entrance is through Puerta del Reloj (Clock Portal).

You’ll come out onto Plaza de los Coches (Carriages Square) where chances are you’ll run into one of the many celebrations and festivals happening in the city or just a crowd of locals hanging out, selling crafts and sweets.

From there, there’s only one way to see Cartagena and it’s to literally get lost in it, preferably at a very slow pace. It’s small enough to manage in one or two days, and the midday heat will ensure you make regular stops at the cute cafes and bars lining every street of this gorgeous World Heritage Site.

Plaza de San Pedro Claver

Iglesia de San Pedro Claver

Plaza Santa Teresa

Largely unchanged since the 1600s, the heart of Cartagena is filled with churches and mansions painted in pastel colors and is where Nobel Prize laureate Gabriel García Márquez got his inspiration for many of his famous novels.

Cartagena Cathedral

You’ll soon be in need of a refreshment in the stifling heat and there’s no better place than La Paletteria. Mixing an Italian recipe with local Colombian products, they handcraft exquisite popsicles  and you’ll want to go back and try all the different local flavors during your stay (there are quite a few).

Lulada popsicle, made from lulo water and sugar

The city feels like an open-air museum as you snap shots of every insanely gorgeous balconies draped in bougainvillea and passing horse carriage.

For your sweet tooth, drop by the homey pasteleria Mila Vargas right in the center where you can indulge in their homemade cakes, cookies, alfajores, brownies and pies, as well as a menu of savory snacks, all very indulgent!

Fried cheese croquettes followed by the house specialty: Sinfonia de coco y dulce de leche!

Horse-drawn carriages are almost as numerous as the cars in this part of town.

In this tropical paradise, fresh fruit juices are available everywhere for a song, from the humble citrus at the corner…

…to a more elaborate concoction with lychee, ginger and tamarind at La Perla, a wonderful Peruvian restaurant.

Try one of their ceviche for a light and healthy lunch, this one loaded with octopus, sea bass and avocado.

Another excellent restaurant is Donjuán, a stylish bistro whose Colombian chef trained at three Michelin restaurants in Spain.

He dishes up Spanish-inflected Caribbean fare and the chargrilled octopus with bacon shouldn’t be missed.

All the plazas are worth lingering at, and the Plaza Santo Domingo is especially lively.

It was recently decorated with the sculpture Mujer Reclinada (Reclining Woman), a gift from the renowned Colombian artist Fernando Botero.

Breakfast in Colombia is usually pretty hearty and filling with the most popular item being arepa de huevo, the Colombian equivalent of our breakfast sandwich which you should absolutely try. When you’re not feeling so peckish, go to La Esquina del Pan de Bono across from the University for their famous pan de bono which is heaven when fresh and hot.

The small round bread is made of yucca and corn flour and cheese, and is slightly gooey inside when hot. You won’t be able to resist the smell if you pass by a bakery selling it, and it’s the perfect light breakfast with a local smoothie made of exotic fruit. That morning I went with a Nispero (loquat) smoothie – deelish!

The northern part of the old town is home to a few more grand buildings, notably the Teatro Heredia and its splendid architecture in front of Plaza de la Merced.

Nearby Hotel Santa Clara, a luxury Sofitel hotel, is housed in a former convent and well worth walking through.

Have a drink in the colonial patio surrounded by luxuriant vegetation.

Once out of the hotel, you’ll find yourself in San Diego, a distinct neighborhood of the old town characterized by a quieter, more residential vibe and winding colorful lanes.

The quirky facade of Argentinian restaurant Patagonia Asados del Sur

The neighborhood hides some culinary gems too such as El Boliche Cebicheria, considered by many to be the best ceviche in the whole town.

The tiny restaurant on a backstreet offers excellent Colombian-style ceviche from the day’s freshest catch. You’ll be salivating in front of the colorful transformation of octopus, squid, conch and freshly-caught fish which the talented chef marinates in tamarind sauce or coconut milk with cilantro.

Plazuela de San Diego

As the sun goes down, the old town turn on an even more festive air with the plazas filling up, street lights illuminating the colorful houses, and musicians gathering to provide the kind of hip-shaking soundtrack perfectly suited to these sultry Cartagena nights.

Calle de las bovedas

Before heading out to dinner, make sure to take a look at the sunset from the old walls, a favorite spot for couples up and down the coast. No doubt Cartagena is a city for lovers…