If you ever find yourself in the north of Colombia, most probably either visiting Cartagena or partying in Barranquilla, then please do yourself a favor and hop on a bus to Santa Marta a few hours northeast for the standout that is Tayrona National Park, truly one of Colombia’s most stunning highlights.
Stretching over 120 square kilometers on land, with an additional 30 square kilometers of marine reserve, Tayrona is the dream for all outdoors aficionados. Much of the park isn’t easily accessible and you’ll have to trek through the lush jungle to reach the coolest places but it’ll be worth it (and sweaty!).
The park is home to exotic species of birds, monkeys, reptiles and more which will greet you along the way.
Catching glimpse of the coast as you hike is a pretty good motivation, though be warned that the one downside of the beaches in Tayrona is their nasty currents and dangerous undertows, so don’t ignore the red flags and stick to the designated areas regardless of how tempting they look.
From the entrance of the park, it’s really only after a good hour of walking that you’ll finally get to some relaxed beach with the only decision to stay there for a bit or continue on the trail (as you should…you’ll see).
It is possible to stay inside the park in one of the handful of camps and cabanas scattered throughout, and the availability of horses to carry your stuff (and yourself if you care) is a good thing to have, albeit a bit pricey if you’re on a backpacker’s budget like most people here.
From here, the string of beaches are some of the finest in all of South America, and while you’ll hardly have them to yourself (it is after all the most accessible section of the park), the crowds won’t matter that much surrounded by such wild beauty.
Walk a little further west to reach La Piscina beach which is Tayrona’s only truly safe beach for swimming and snorkeling. Its wide expanse will leave you plenty of space to settle in for a bit and grab a snack from the local ladies at the entrance.
The best is yet to come and another 20-30 minutes’ walk further east will bring you to the final destination and main reason people flock to Tayrona in the first place: Cabo San Juan.
Soon after passing the campground you’ll be awestruck by the dreamy setting in front of you.
Go ahead, jump in, you’ve deserved it after that two hour hike!
Cabo San Juan is THE postcard picture you’ll inevitably see when searching for Tayrona and its easily recognizable cabaña, sitting at the top and dividing the two bays, offers incredible panoramic views….
…and a place to sleep if you book in advance! Hammocks are available for rent in what must be one of the most popular location on the coast, if not in all of Colombia. No wonder this has become a heaven for backpackers as this surely beats your average hostel view.
It’s an amazing vantage point from which you can finally take in the steep and imposing Sierra Nevada mountain range and the breathtaking coastline. For those who have always wondered, Colombia is actually one of the most geographically stunning countries in the world and Tayrona helps in proving it.
The laidback and super busy onsite restaurant serves delicious local fare and you shouldn’t pick anything other than the fried fish with coconut rice specialty.
Time for one more swim in this paradise camp and then if you haven’t booked yourself a camping spot you’ll sadly have to start making your way back along the same two hour hiking route since the park closes at 5pm.
This doesn’t mean your beach time is over though, as I found another equally stunning place just outside the park (5 min by car) to spend a few nights in utter switch-off mode: Barlovento’s Cabaña.
The Cabaña was one of the first projects of world famous architect Simon Velez and seems to be hanging from a cliff in the middle of this spectacular setting.
The rustic house is basic but the luxury is in the location and the very special experience it is to spend the night here, far from the city and the madding crowds. It’s a great place to unwind, disconnect (easy, as there’s no internet or tv) and just spend the day walking on the beach and daydreaming. The staff comes in the morning and evening to prepare scrumptious breakfasts and dinners, savored with the ocean breeze blowing through the open-air dining room.
You’ll be sleeping on a deck overlooking the ocean with the waves crashing literally right underneath your bed for a very unique night, albeit not a quiet one!
The view from my window looking east was ravishing…
…and gave me bragging rights came sunrise – perfect position!
More proof that it’s worth getting up before 6am…
At the back of the house, the sight is even more captivating as you sit and take in the grandeur of the Piedras River bursting out of the Sierra Nevada and emptying into the Caribbean. The peace and quiet felt here is in sharp contrast with the powerful waves just a few meters behind you and makes for the perfect reading spot, though you’ll have a hard time taking your eyes away from the scenery and wildlife.
Warning signs all around reminds you also that the river is a prime alligator habitat so you’ll think twice about that swim!
Obviously, sunsets here are a draw and cast an enchanting glow over the landscape.
I’ll end this post with my favorite picture – sunset as seen from my bedroom, slightly hidden yes but playing its magic on this very unique corner of the world. So glad I trekked all the way out here!
