Legs a bit sore from yesterday’s rough terrain, we woke up after a good night’s rest (sans apparitions of dismembered clansmen thankfully) at the Drover’s Lodge and crossed the street to enjoy a leisurely breakfast in the atmospheric Inn. Today would be a “relatively short” 12 miles hence enough time to slowly ingest a cooked breakfast in the company of the Inn’s many stuffed creatures.

The morning walk started easy following the beautiful river Falloch.

A few rapids and falls gave us reasons to slow down a bit and take in the scenery (once again bathed in glorious sunshine – are we in Scotland still? What is going on??).

A lone farm marked where we’d cross the river on the smallest of bridges to continue on the Way.

The trail climbed gently on a wide 18th century military road. Out of the forest and river bed, we had the first real views of the day and a good, easy pace on this well maintained track. Nothing like yesterday where you had to watch every step unless you wanted to trip on a tree root or fall down a steep incline. This was relaxing…

Moss-covered stone walls guided us for a while, encircling a farm that appeared to own half the land we laid our eyes on.

It was not a quiet day with the distant traffic noise from the road (A82) running parallel and plenty of sheep grazing the hillsides. Spring babies training their vocals were everywhere and I didn’t mind the distraction, stopping whenever they were close enough to the track to get a dose of cuteness.

More climbing brought us to the edge of a conifer plantation and a viewpoint over the village of Crianlarich. Most importantly, this spot marked the halfway point of the West Highland Way!! We celebrated by taking a 5 minute break and shoveling a chocolate bar before heading up through the plantation.

I was rather enjoying this secluded stretch in the woods which seemed to dampen the ambient noises and cool off our sweaty bodies.

Eventually the track brought us back down to the valley floor and across the main road we’d been avoiding for a while.

One more crossing, that of the River Fillan, and we were back on farmland.

A bit blasé by all the sheep, I marveled at a close encounter with a Highland cow which had been sadly elusive this week.

The Way then went past the ruins of St Fillan’s Priory – a 12th century monastery turned priory by Robert the Bruce, King of Scots in honor of 7th century Irish evangelist St Fillan.

With only a few more miles to go and an easy track, we picked up the pace to make it to our final destination in time for a late lunch and a chance at a restful afternoon.

More river crossings on beautiful stone bridges led us to our first albeit small expanse of moorland. Dried grass and heather contrasted with the deep blue sky. As beautiful as this new scenery was, our legs were getting tired and our grumbling stomachs reminded us we’d perhaps pushed this morning’s walk a bit too long… With no breaks longer than 5 minute over 12 miles, we had officially depleted our energy bank!

Thankfully, 30 minutes later we saw the final line as we reached the shade of the Pine Trees Leisure Park in the outskirts of Tyndrum. We quickly found a picnic table by the stream and devoured our packed lunch with gusto, watching all the other walkers trickle in one by one. Fun fact: Tyndrum is the site of Scotland’s only gold mine which explains why so many people were ankle deep in the water, sifting rocks and sand. The leisure park is known as the perfect spot for gold panning and looks like it attracted many looking to get lucky!

Our relatively quick walk today (a little over 5 hours) meant we had more time to check into our B&B. The long hot shower was followed by a cup of tea and homemade scones made by our hosts which was a delightful surprise. There wasn’t much to do in the tiny village of Tyndrum so we only made it out for an early dinner at The Real Food Cafe.

We thoroughly enjoyed our meal of smoked salmon salad and fried haggis bonbons washed with a local cider. Honestly couldn’t have picked a better way to end the day…and prepare for tomorrow’s ass kicker.

Day 3 – If we were to trust our weather app, it was panning out to be a continuation of yesterday’s bright afternoon which delighted us. Many accounts of the West Highland Way often mention Day 3 as the hardest so having the weather on our side was a huge stress reliever. After gathering up all our clothes which we had thrown over the heaters to dry overnight, we stepped into the cool morning air and immediately got on the Way conveniently found right outside the Rowardennan Hotel .

Today we’d be walking 14.5 miles so similar distance than yesterday but on a very different terrain. Essentially Day 3 has you walk the rest of the length of Loch Lomond, promising splendid views all along, before leaving it behind at the end of the day.

Shortly after departing, we spotted one of several honesty boxes that are set along the Way with freshly baked goods and other snacks made by locals available for a small fee.

The morning stretch was just beautiful. The path was undulating through oak forests with permanent views of the loch on our left and no noise other than the crunch of gravel under our feet and the occasional waterfall – morning meditation bliss!

Occasionally the path would leave the loch side and pass through enchanted woodlands covered in moss.

We encountered our first feral goat who didn’t appear to care much about our presence. It kept on grazing nonchalantly while I admired the coloring of its coat, trying not to breathe in its pungent odor.

Right on cue when the midday hunger started to make itself known, the Inversnaid Hotel magically appeared out of nowhere right by a beautiful waterfall.

As the only place right on the Way today where one can get food and drink, it’s the official lunch break for walkers…

..and we even have our own dedicated entrance! This small vestibule is so walkers can remove their dirty boots and wet coats before entering the premises which we were more than happy to do. Most walkers enjoyed their packed lunch outside by the loch but we once again opted to treat ourselves to a hot one, seeing as this was the last opportunity before the Way became too wild for such niceties. Decent fish & chips and mac & cheese at the hotel bar set us up for the active afternoon ahead.

Leaving the Inversnaid Hotel behind, we began the final stretch to the end of the loch which gave Day 3 its difficulty rating. It honestly wasn’t bad at all, only that the path is hard going with numerous ups and downs and uneven footing for most of it, going over rocks and boulders in tight places with steep slopes leading down to the loch.

Probably most difficult was looking where you put your feet with such arresting views in front of you.

A surprise rest area made of lovely wood carved oak leaf benches and acorn tables provided an excuse to break from the roller coaster and admire the scenery.

Whenever we emerged out of the woodlands, the peaks of the Arrochar Alps were coming into full view with their still snowy summits.

A few sandy beaches at loch level gave our first southerly views in a while.

A marshy area with bright green tufts gave an otherworldly feel to this wild place though we could start to hear the faint sound of traffic coming from across the loch – we were nearing its end.

The marshland opened to a pretty fine vista of ruins and a basic shelter perfect for that mid-afternoon munchies – we still had some ways to go!

Our final ascent of the day was rewarded by splendid and bittersweet views over Loch Lomond as we slowly climbed away from it. I kept on turning around every few minutes to capture the changing panorama as I gained altitude.

With the loch at our backs, we enjoyed a fairly flat walk across a wide pass, a major improvement over the day’s rocky climbs and falls.

A pretty chilled final 2 miles only interrupted by our second feral goat encounter.

Nothing beats seeing the finish line after a long walk. We could glimpse Inverarnan in the distance as we started the gentle descent through a lovely birch forest.

I was quite excited to check in to the world famous Drovers Inn, 300 years old and reputedly haunted!

The reception area surely gave some vibes with stuffed animals everywhere you look and antique hunting accessories from bygone days.

The atmospheric pub with smoke-blackened walls and a roaring fire was the ideal place for our end-of-day refreshment. I had pictured something very similar when dreaming of the historical places we’d stop at along the Way. The room quickly filled up with merry but tired walkers, most without shoes on, as we filled our bellies with Scottish beer and grub and headed to bed early.

We were somewhat grateful to be sleeping across the street in the Drovers’ more modern lodge away from the bar crowd (and the resident ghosts…).

Day 3, contrary to my assumptions of difficulty, was really enjoyable from beginning to end and I went to bed replaying the magnificent loch views we had all day. Weather forecast still looked pretty good for the rest of the week but surely one can’t get so lucky in the unpredictable Highlands?

We woke up to a drizzly morning in Drymen, much more typical than yesterday’s gorgeous start from Milngavie. Far from dampening my spirits, I saw the gloomy weather as the quintessential backdrop to a true Highland hike and was already imagining the magical scenery made even more dramatic. After layering up and packing all the waterproof gear, we filled up on Scottish fare fit for the day ahead (and the 14.5 miles to our next hotel). Leaving Drymen behind, this morning saw us gently climb through a forest plantation under a steady drizzle.

We emerged around mid-morning in a clearing to the foggy sight of Conic Hill which somehow appeared less imposing than the glimpse we had yesterday.

With no break in the rain we climbed steadily the 1200ft or so through the fog to just below the top of Conic Hill. Despite the limited visibility, it’s worth climbing to one of the multiple summits which give an incredible view over Loch Lomond, well in good weather I’m sure.

Still, I loved the moody landscape with the fast moving clouds unveiling briefly the lake below before covering it all over again.

I could only imagine the views (and the pics!) if we had come here yesterday…. but hey, nature is glorious nonetheless and without the rain the greens wouldn’t pop nearly as much.

A slippery and steep descent took us swiftly down to the village of Balmaha on the loch shore where everyone vanished into the first restaurant in sight: the Oak Tree Inn. By then soaked nearly to the bone, we gathered under one of the heated lamps and had a filling lunch of cullen skink and chicken pot pie with hot teas to warm us up for the second half of the day.

Like magic, the sky started clearing up just as we were getting ready to leave for which I was most grateful. Partly because tiny Balmaha looked like a lovely place to explore for a bit.

Its sheltered bay sees a hive of boating activity in the summer and many cruises that tour Loch Lomond depart from here. There was also a statue that intrigued me: that of Tom Weir, a Scottish climber, author, environmentalist, and broadcaster who lived locally.

What a relief it was to see the sun peeking at times from behind the clouds, drying our clothes and especially bathing this absolutely lovely stretch of the walk in a warm light. We bid goodbye to Balmaha and its colorful cottages and continued on the next 7 miles of the Way.

The rest of the afternoon was on a pleasantly varied path that meandered between natural forests and the shore of Loch Lomond, rising and falling many times though nothing as major as that morning’s climb.

We were treated to frequent views of Loch Lomond, Britain’s largest body of fresh water covering 27 square miles. I had once attended a wedding on its shore and danced the night away on a boat in the middle of it many years ago.

The path traverses a few tiny beaches and rocky coves which were free of the many visitors that no doubt will swarm the place in a few months. For now it was mostly just a few locals well wrapped up, contemplating the tranquil water sitting on a warm blanket.

For a few short sections you have no choice but to join the road which was pretty quiet this time of year. I quite liked getting a view into village life and picturesque homes.

So many spots were just begging for you to take a break even if just to admire the scenery for a few minutes. I understood the attraction of stretching the Way over several more days so you could stick around a secluded bay like this, maybe read a book or take a nap on that bed of cushy moss…

We even stumbled upon this cottage for rent which seemed straight out of The Holiday movie – definitely wouldn’t mind a house swap with that one!

A few more short steep climbs near the end made us look forward to our hotel room and a hot shower, our bodies still slightly damp from the morning’s rain and the afternoon’s workouts.

What a joy to spot the Rowardennan Hotel right on the shore of Loch Lomond. This one dates back to 1696 though has been refurbished since and has a homey bar, the Clansman Bar, with burning fire and beer garden which is really all any walkers want after a long day on the road.

Watching the sunset on the loch right behind the hotel was the ideal way to end Day 2 of the Way. Despite a wet and slightly tiresome morning, I felt we lucked out on the weather yet again and thought the afternoon’s mix of beaches and short forest climbs was an interesting change of scenery. I couldn’t wait for tomorrow which promised even more beauty…

Few things, to me at least, are as inspiring as walking long distances in wild places. We’re lucky to live in a world where we “still” have many to choose from. While all of them surely have stunning scenery I have to believe Scotland ranks among the very best after returning from walking the West Highland Way. Haven’t heard of it? Boy you’re in for a treat…

While I typically condense my trips into 2-3 posts, I felt this pilgrimage of sort deserved to be dissected into its proper sections so to speak. You’ll get to literally walk into my hiking boots for the 7 days it took me to traverse the better part of the Scottish Highlands, a fair pace that allows walkers to soak in as much of this magical region as one can in a week off work!

The start of the “Way” (as I’ll refer to it from now on) is just 20 minutes outside of Glasgow which makes it far easier to reach than your usual trek. It had been a while (almost 12 years!) since my last time in this artful city and a half day was way too short to properly do it justice. A quick fill of art nouveau architecture and a delightful meal reminded me just how underrated this culinary gem is.

Before we start walking, let’s just get the logistics out of the way. First off, you don’t need to be an experienced hiker to do the Way. The whole trail is on well-maintained paths with obvious markings so you absolutely can’t get lost (plus you’ll rarely if ever be alone). There are a few climbs above 1000ft especially in the second part but you’re free to take as long as you need. I did it in 7 days which is considered the standard, moderately challenging pace though most walkers will opt to do it anywhere between 6 and 10 days or even more if you really want to savor the scenery (and you should).

The main walking season is between April and October. I decided to go in April to avoid both the summer crowds and especially the midges (haven’t heard of them? Most annoying flies in all of Europe that start showing up in Scotland in June to ruin everyone’s fun for a few months.) April is also one of the most unpredictable months in terms of weather but I like to live dangerously (!) and it totally paid off….you’ll see. The only other main thing to consider and it’s one of the most important is where you’ll sleep. There are essentially two options: backpacking and pitching your tent in gorgeous terrain along the way or booking a room at one of the charming/historical inns and B&Bs that are located at each end of the Way’s sections.

While camping sounds wonderful, nights in April still drop below zero and the few backpackers that were in our “herd” froze and didn’t get much sleep so… I went with option two. And here comes my last bit of advice – if you want to book accommodations, you need to be organized and early. It’s a popular walk and the villages you’re passing through have very limited rooms which get booked months in advance. Nearly all the walkers go through a travel operator to arrange the logistics for the Way i.e., book your accommodations AND move your luggage to your next one so all you have to carry is your day pack. Trust me, this is the way to do it to avoid many headaches!

Milngavie – The official start of the West Highland Way

After a good night’s rest in Glasgow, it’s time to hit the road. The Way officially begins in Milngavie (pronounced “mullguy”), a 20 minute cab ride or train ride north from Glasgow. The main shopping district was rather sleepy at 8:30am except for the buzz of walkers getting their carbs and caffeine fix at Costa Coffee right by the entrance to the path, the only place opened so early on a Saturday morning.

The sun was shining bright on this cool April morning – an auspicious beginning? After the obligatory snap by the obelisk marking the official start, we set off for today’s 12 miles stage.

A gentle start, the path undulates through wooded parks and suburbs before leading us into genuine countryside.

Within the first hour we met the first of many sheep and got our first distant views of the Highlands, getting us properly pumped for the days ahead.

Highland cows with their fluffy coats graze in the distance and the presence of other creatures catches our attention. I learned that day that “haggis” wasn’t just a savory Scottish pudding…

Down at the valley bottom, we followed a flat trail for a while along a disused railway through farmland until we caught sight of the distinct white building of the Glengoyne Distillery. Would be a shame not to… wouldn’t it?

It’s a quick detour to visit a unique whiskey distillery in operation since 1833, and since today is an easy day on the trail a no brainer really.

They have tours almost every hour but we had just missed one so we opted for a wee dram in the beautiful shop instead. I bought a few mini bottles for the road, surely this gorgeous weather wouldn’t last and I’d be glad to have something to keep me warm…

Half an hour later we arrived at our lunch stop at Turnip the Beet, a “World Cuisine deli” catering very well to walkers as it sits directly on the Way. They have amazing home cooked food with global flavors, camping necessities, and most importantly restrooms! Yes, it is a luxury to have a sit down lunch on a long trek but absolutely recommended here. Today is the easiest day with plenty of spare time and we knew the second half of the Way wouldn’t have such amenities in the wildest parts.

The afternoon portion of the walk was a leisurely stroll through the pretty hamlet of Gartness and its sandstone cottages.

We followed a quiet country lane through family farms for the last few miles of the day.

Towards the end you’re treated to wide views of the Highlands to the north with Conic Hill in the middle (which we would climb tomorrow).

Arriving in Drymen

We arrived late afternoon to the village of Drymen where we would spend the night and settled in our self-contained garden studio at the Braeside Guest House.

Right across the street was the Clachan Inn which claims to be Scotland’s oldest licensed pub, established in 1734.

It’s a convivial and popular place for food and drinks and we happily celebrated completing our first day with a local feast of cullen skink (an absolutely delicious smoked fish and potato soup), steak and a gargantuan burger.

A little walk around the charming village was required after such a heavy dinner and we quickly collapsed after preparing our gear for the next day’s walk.

Day 1 closing: Today was an easy intro for sure. With the gorgeous weather and minimum elevation gain the 12 miles felt more like a casual day walk than a hike with an equal mix of urban and natural areas. It felt good to have this warm up as we knew tomorrow would be a bit more physical and today gave us enough teasing of the mountainous terrain ahead to get me properly excited. Onwards!