We woke up to a drizzly morning in Drymen, much more typical than yesterday’s gorgeous start from Milngavie. Far from dampening my spirits, I saw the gloomy weather as the quintessential backdrop to a true Highland hike and was already imagining the magical scenery made even more dramatic. After layering up and packing all the waterproof gear, we filled up on Scottish fare fit for the day ahead (and the 14.5 miles to our next hotel). Leaving Drymen behind, this morning saw us gently climb through a forest plantation under a steady drizzle.
Warm, delicious Scottish porridge…
We emerged around mid-morning in a clearing to the foggy sight of Conic Hill which somehow appeared less imposing than the glimpse we had yesterday.
With no break in the rain we climbed steadily the 1200ft or so through the fog to just below the top of Conic Hill. Despite the limited visibility, it’s worth climbing to one of the multiple summits which give an incredible view over Loch Lomond, well in good weather I’m sure.
Still, I loved the moody landscape with the fast moving clouds unveiling briefly the lake below before covering it all over again.
I could only imagine the views (and the pics!) if we had come here yesterday…. but hey, nature is glorious nonetheless and without the rain the greens wouldn’t pop nearly as much.
A slippery and steep descent took us swiftly down to the village of Balmaha on the loch shore where everyone vanished into the first restaurant in sight: the Oak Tree Inn. By then soaked nearly to the bone, we gathered under one of the heated lamps and had a filling lunch of cullen skink and chicken pot pie with hot teas to warm us up for the second half of the day.
Like magic, the sky started clearing up just as we were getting ready to leave for which I was most grateful. Partly because tiny Balmaha looked like a lovely place to explore for a bit.
Its sheltered bay sees a hive of boating activity in the summer and many cruises that tour Loch Lomond depart from here. There was also a statue that intrigued me: that of Tom Weir, a Scottish climber, author, environmentalist, and broadcaster who lived locally.
What a relief it was to see the sun peeking at times from behind the clouds, drying our clothes and especially bathing this absolutely lovely stretch of the walk in a warm light. We bid goodbye to Balmaha and its colorful cottages and continued on the next 7 miles of the Way.
The rest of the afternoon was on a pleasantly varied path that meandered between natural forests and the shore of Loch Lomond, rising and falling many times though nothing as major as that morning’s climb.
We were treated to frequent views of Loch Lomond, Britain’s largest body of fresh water covering 27 square miles. I had once attended a wedding on its shore and danced the night away on a boat in the middle of it many years ago.
The path traverses a few tiny beaches and rocky coves which were free of the many visitors that no doubt will swarm the place in a few months. For now it was mostly just a few locals well wrapped up, contemplating the tranquil water sitting on a warm blanket.
For a few short sections you have no choice but to join the road which was pretty quiet this time of year. I quite liked getting a view into village life and picturesque homes.
So many spots were just begging for you to take a break even if just to admire the scenery for a few minutes. I understood the attraction of stretching the Way over several more days so you could stick around a secluded bay like this, maybe read a book or take a nap on that bed of cushy moss…
We even stumbled upon this cottage for rent which seemed straight out of The Holiday movie – definitely wouldn’t mind a house swap with that one!
A few more short steep climbs near the end made us look forward to our hotel room and a hot shower, our bodies still slightly damp from the morning’s rain and the afternoon’s workouts.
What a joy to spot the Rowardennan Hotel right on the shore of Loch Lomond. This one dates back to 1696 though has been refurbished since and has a homey bar, the Clansman Bar, with burning fire and beer garden which is really all any walkers want after a long day on the road.
Watching the sunset on the loch right behind the hotel was the ideal way to end Day 2 of the Way. Despite a wet and slightly tiresome morning, I felt we lucked out on the weather yet again and thought the afternoon’s mix of beaches and short forest climbs was an interesting change of scenery. I couldn’t wait for tomorrow which promised even more beauty…
Few things, to me at least, are as inspiring as walking long distances in wild places. We’re lucky to live in a world where we “still” have many to choose from. While all of them surely have stunning scenery I have to believe Scotland ranks among the very best after returning from walking the West Highland Way. Haven’t heard of it? Boy you’re in for a treat…
While I typically condense my trips into 2-3 posts, I felt this pilgrimage of sort deserved to be dissected into its proper sections so to speak. You’ll get to literally walk into my hiking boots for the 7 days it took me to traverse the better part of the Scottish Highlands, a fair pace that allows walkers to soak in as much of this magical region as one can in a week off work!
The start of the “Way” (as I’ll refer to it from now on) is just 20 minutes outside of Glasgow which makes it far easier to reach than your usual trek. It had been a while (almost 12 years!) since my last time in this artful city and a half day was way too short to properly do it justice. A quick fill of art nouveau architecture and a delightful meal reminded me just how underrated this culinary gem is.
Seafood feast at Shucks Seafood & Bar Glasgow
Before we start walking, let’s just get the logistics out of the way. First off, you don’t need to be an experienced hiker to do the Way. The whole trail is on well-maintained paths with obvious markings so you absolutely can’t get lost (plus you’ll rarely if ever be alone). There are a few climbs above 1000ft especially in the second part but you’re free to take as long as you need. I did it in 7 days which is considered the standard, moderately challenging pace though most walkers will opt to do it anywhere between 6 and 10 days or even more if you really want to savor the scenery (and you should).
The main walking season is between April and October. I decided to go in April to avoid both the summer crowds and especially the midges (haven’t heard of them? Most annoying flies in all of Europe that start showing up in Scotland in June to ruin everyone’s fun for a few months.) April is also one of the most unpredictable months in terms of weather but I like to live dangerously (!) and it totally paid off….you’ll see. The only other main thing to consider and it’s one of the most important is where you’ll sleep. There are essentially two options: backpacking and pitching your tent in gorgeous terrain along the way or booking a room at one of the charming/historical inns and B&Bs that are located at each end of the Way’s sections.
While camping sounds wonderful, nights in April still drop below zero and the few backpackers that were in our “herd” froze and didn’t get much sleep so… I went with option two. And here comes my last bit of advice – if you want to book accommodations, you need to be organized and early. It’s a popular walk and the villages you’re passing through have very limited rooms which get booked months in advance. Nearly all the walkers go through a travel operator to arrange the logistics for the Way i.e., book your accommodations AND move your luggage to your next one so all you have to carry is your day pack. Trust me, this is the way to do it to avoid many headaches!
Milngavie – The official start of the West Highland Way
After a good night’s rest in Glasgow, it’s time to hit the road. The Way officially begins in Milngavie (pronounced “mullguy”), a 20 minute cab ride or train ride north from Glasgow. The main shopping district was rather sleepy at 8:30am except for the buzz of walkers getting their carbs and caffeine fix at Costa Coffee right by the entrance to the path, the only place opened so early on a Saturday morning.
The sun was shining bright on this cool April morning – an auspicious beginning? After the obligatory snap by the obelisk marking the official start, we set off for today’s 12 miles stage.
A gentle start, the path undulates through wooded parks and suburbs before leading us into genuine countryside.
Within the first hour we met the first of many sheep and got our first distant views of the Highlands, getting us properly pumped for the days ahead.
Highland cows with their fluffy coats graze in the distance and the presence of other creatures catches our attention. I learned that day that “haggis” wasn’t just a savory Scottish pudding…
Down at the valley bottom, we followed a flat trail for a while along a disused railway through farmland until we caught sight of the distinct white building of the Glengoyne Distillery. Would be a shame not to… wouldn’t it?
It’s a quick detour to visit a unique whiskey distillery in operation since 1833, and since today is an easy day on the trail a no brainer really.
They have tours almost every hour but we had just missed one so we opted for a wee dram in the beautiful shop instead. I bought a few mini bottles for the road, surely this gorgeous weather wouldn’t last and I’d be glad to have something to keep me warm…
Tasting room at Glengoyne Distillery
Half an hour later we arrived at our lunch stop at Turnip the Beet, a “World Cuisine deli” catering very well to walkers as it sits directly on the Way. They have amazing home cooked food with global flavors, camping necessities, and most importantly restrooms! Yes, it is a luxury to have a sit down lunch on a long trek but absolutely recommended here. Today is the easiest day with plenty of spare time and we knew the second half of the Way wouldn’t have such amenities in the wildest parts.
Keralan Vegetable Curry at Turnip the Beet
The afternoon portion of the walk was a leisurely stroll through the pretty hamlet of Gartness and its sandstone cottages.
We followed a quiet country lane through family farms for the last few miles of the day.
Towards the end you’re treated to wide views of the Highlands to the north with Conic Hill in the middle (which we would climb tomorrow).
Arriving in Drymen
We arrived late afternoon to the village of Drymen where we would spend the night and settled in our self-contained garden studio at the Braeside Guest House.
Right across the street was the Clachan Inn which claims to be Scotland’s oldest licensed pub, established in 1734.
It’s a convivial and popular place for food and drinks and we happily celebrated completing our first day with a local feast of cullen skink (an absolutely delicious smoked fish and potato soup), steak and a gargantuan burger.
Cullen skink and Clachan Burger (beef + haggis + black pudding)
A little walk around the charming village was required after such a heavy dinner and we quickly collapsed after preparing our gear for the next day’s walk.
Day 1 closing: Today was an easy intro for sure. With the gorgeous weather and minimum elevation gain the 12 miles felt more like a casual day walk than a hike with an equal mix of urban and natural areas. It felt good to have this warm up as we knew tomorrow would be a bit more physical and today gave us enough teasing of the mountainous terrain ahead to get me properly excited. Onwards!
A refreshing salad of cucumber and yogurt sounds even dreamier when you’re in week two of the summer’s relentless heat wave. Anything to avoid turning the oven on is a win and bonus point if said dish is cooling too – which this salad certainly is.
If you like tzatziki you’ll easily fall for this Turkish-inspired smashed cucumber, blueberry, and pistachio salad. Simple enough to be ready in a few minutes, it can be a light lunch on a too hot day or a quick side to whatever’s cooking on the grill that night.
Use small Persian cucumbers and have fun beating the %*!# out of them! I used a rolling pin but anything heavy will do – just be careful not to overdo it as you want some nice chunks as opposed to mush. Smashing helps break down the cucumbers just enough that they’re ready to soak up more dressing.
Gently mix cucumbers with Greek yogurt, lightly toasted pistachios, fresh mint, and dill.
When ready to serve, top with some fresh berries (traditionally mulberries but I swapped in blueberries and I bet black raspberries would be great here too) and a drizzle or pomegranate molasses.
A cool, crunchy, and oh so delicious summer salad I can’t get enough of these days.
Preparation
1. Place the cucumbers on a large board and, using a rolling pin, smash them into large chunks. Put the broken pieces of cucumber into a large bowl with the yogurt, pistachios, mint and dill. Gently toss the ingredients to combine, and season.
3. Spoon into serving plates, drizzle with the pomegranate molasses and top with the fresh blueberries (or mulberries, black raspberries, etc.).
Ingredients
4 small Persian cucumbers 1/2 cup Greek-style yogurt 1/2 cup pistachios, lightly toasted 20 fresh mint leaves 1 tablespoon coarsely chopped dill Sea salt and freshly ground pepper 1/4 cup pomegranate molasses A handful of fresh blueberries or mulberries or black raspberries
After a few adventurous days hiking, boating, sunning, eating and bathing in St. Lucia’s gorgeous nature, I was finally ready for a proper rest. The island’s coast isn’t shy of beautiful resorts and sweet rentals, but for me there was only one destination calling my name: Balenbouche Estate. It’s unlike me to devote an entire post to an accommodation but you’ll understand why it was necessary after scrolling through it. Calling Balenbouche an accommodation is too diminutive as it is a world within itself, one I could have easily stayed in for a month or more…
A very different kind of stay
In the charming south of the island, less than 30 minutes drive from the airport, you’ll find this tranquil retreat with hidden beaches, secret gardens, old ruins, and eco-built guest houses you’ll never want to leave. Welcome to Balenbouche Estate, a 70-acre paradise for nature lovers, history fans, ecotourism enthusiasts, yogis, and anyone in need of a reset away from it all.
It all began as a rum and sugar plantation in colonial 18th-century St. Lucia and is now a pioneer of ecotourism on the island. In the same family since the 1960s, Balenbouche has been carefully restored in keeping with the estate’s ecological philosophy. Today they host guests, retreats, weddings, artists, etc. all the while running community projects and working to preserve the incredible nature surrounding their home.
You’ll need to drive slowly to not miss the unassuming signage by the side of the road and the unpaved driveway leading you to the main house through mango trees, flowering shrubs, and grazing pasture.
The family who created the Balenbouche of today still lives in this characterful colonial house and will greet you warmly whether you’re staying for a few days or just a few hours (you can visit the estate for the day for a very small fee). Uta the matriarch and her two daughters will happily show you around for a brief intro and let you explore the many corners of the expansive grounds at your own pace.
The main house is always open and is where you’ll gather up for occasional meals in good company. The guest suites and cottages are for the most part self-catering though you can order breakfast every morning if you’d like and enjoy Uta’s homecooking on the wraparound porch.
Antique silver, tropical fruits, and the company of the many resident dogs make for a delightful and unhurried start of your day at Balenbouche.
A wander around the architecturally impressive plantation house from the 19th century is like stepping into an open-air museum. Everything is as it was generations ago with no modern amenities breaking up the soothing interior and vintage decor.
Lush Living Quarters
Stroll the grounds to find remnants of the past at every turn and more reading/meditation nooks you could fit in a week’s time.
An old cotton drying house is now a serene yoga studio you can retreat to any time you like for stretches, contemplation or writing.
Paths take you through flower gardens, lily ponds, fruit orchards and dense jungle into the heart of Balenbouche’s harmonious ecosystem.
Dotted around these enchanting grounds, a handful of simple and incredibly sweet cottages welcome guests into a truly immersive stay. All have their unique style and were entirely built from recycled material, showcasing the family’s creative and artistic nature.
The Frangipani Cottage
Outdoor showers, verandas, open-air kitchens all invite nature (and wildlife!) in with mosquito nets to repel the least desirable of visitors.
Even the more modern additions keep the open vibes and organic design.
Nightly St. Lucian breezes cool you off (no air-conditioning in your eco-friendly room of course) and lull you to the most wonderful sleep, carrying the dreamy insects and creatures chirps and hums from all around the estate.
My kitchen overlooking the fields and garden was well equipped for light meals with birds often flying in to join me. The owners will invite you to join them on their grocery run so you can fill up on supplies for your stay and enjoy life on the estate without having to leave. There are a few restaurants walking distance down the road if you prefer to go out though.
Outdoor shower and view from the kitchen…
As homey and comfortable as the cottages are, there’s a fascinating world to explore just beyond your doorstep. Leisure walks around the estate are always full of surprises and magical encounters, whether you spot one of the 30+ bird species, befriend a curious lizard, or stumble upon a hidden patch of brightly colored flowers.
Beaches and Ruins
Eventually your feet will lead you to one of the two natural black sand beaches on the property which you’ll likely have all to yourself. The mix of volcanic sand, multi-colored cliffs and blue water of Balenbouche “Middle Beach” is simply stunning. Go for a swim, read a book, take photos on what feels like your own private slice of St Lucia – a rare treat.
When the sun gets a bit too hot out there, it’s the perfect time to go explore Balenbouche’s past hidden in the jungly interior.
The living ruins of the old 18th century sugar mill make for an adventurous stroll through history and plenty of photo opportunities. Balenbouche produced sugar and rum from the late 1700’s to the 1930’s. After sugar the main crops were cotton, citrus, coffee, cocoa and coconuts.
Nature has worked her way through the huge water wheel, crushing mechanism, and rusty copper stills since production stopped.
The iconic banyan tree fascinates every visitors and I found my way back to it again and again, admiring every angle of its intricate root system.
Come sunset, follow the clear and easier path to the second beach called “Anse Balenbouche”.
Smaller and shallower, it’s the ideal spot to bid goodbye to the sun as it sinks down right in front of you into the ocean.
You honestly won’t want to leave this magical place but there are a few activities nearby you can easily get to without a car. We hiked to a nearby river where a “natural swimming pool” was ours alone (a tip from the lovely owners) and it’s easy to get to Laborie, the nearest town with bars and restaurants, by hailing the minibus from the main road.
Staying at Balenbouche is the best reset I know of, whether you need some alone time in nature or want to bring your whole family to a stunning heritage site for bonding. A true Caribbean treasure – Balenbouche Estate.
For the intrepid travelers like myself who typically avoid the Caribbean due to the fear of being bored on a beach resort, I have finally found the perfect island: St. Lucia! The largest of the Windward Islands in the West Indies boasts so many outdoorsy things to do I couldn’t even fit them all in a week on this tropical paradise. Dramatic natural landscapes abound – from the iconic twin peaks and bubbling springs to pristine beaches and lush rainforests – making St. Lucia the region’s most diverse and magnificent playground.
A view of the famous Pitons from the plane as you prepare to land
Enchanting Soufrière
For the easiest access to the main activities, I recommend you set up your base in Soufrière, the original capital of St. Lucia. Sitting on the west coast, the town is one of the island’s most breathtaking spots. Home to its most famous landmarks, the Gros Piton and Petit Piton volcanoes rising from the clear blue Caribbean, and surrounded by sandy beaches, there is not a bad view to be had around.
The local beach is protected by lush cliffs on each side with snack bars and a fun local vibe as the day progresses.
Many hotels built right on the hillside provide breathtaking views of the bay and a nice rest between your numerous adventures like the Green Fig Resort & Spa where I stayed for a few days. Only downside of the proximity to the town center and the beach are the loud dance parties on the weekends. Be ready to stay up until the wee hours of the morning while the weeknights are a lot quieter.
You can catch up on some z’s by the pool…
Wake up to fresh tropical fruits, excellent coffee, and a deliciously filling creole breakfast of stewed salted cod fish, salad, and bakes – perfect to fuel your day’s active pursuits.
There’s also an amazing take out spot called Island Chef by the beach for fresh grilled fish with curry sauce and all the local side dishes you can dream of (pictured below right).
With a name like Soufrière, it should come as no surprise that the town was first established by French colonialists before the British invasion. It was rebuilt many times over after hurricanes, a major fire, and an earthquake, lending a laid-back charm to the clutter of mixed buildings along the streets.
Brightly colored wooden cottages and tin shacks stand next to a few colonial-era houses while music blasts from shop windows or idled cars.
The Saturday Farmers’ Market by the beach is a great place to grab fresh produce, a cold drink, and observe local life for a while (and in the shade which is hard to come by!).
Geothermal activity & tropical flora
Soufrière sits right in the caldera of a dormant volcano, putting you within easy reach of hot springs and geothermal fields. You can drive in a few minutes to the seven-mile-wide caldera (the world’s only “drive-through volcano”) and walk around the collapsed crater.
There’s activity all right as the plumes of rising steam, bubbling muddy puddles, and rotten egg sulfur smell indicate, although last eruption dates back to 1766.
Make sure to bring a swimsuit and towel and head to the nearby Sulphur Springs where you can bathe in the warm, mineral-rich water and treat your body with a healing mud mask. You’ll feel wonderfully rejuvenated with baby soft skin for the rest of the day!
Extend your “spa day” with a visit to the beautiful Diamond Falls Botanical Gardens close by. You can slowly walk the trails around the 6 acres of planted gardens, admiring the tropical flowers and trees at your own pace.
At the end of the path you’ll find a most beautiful scene – Diamond Falls. They look almost as if they’ve been drawn to illustrate the cover of the Jungle Book, so perfectly framed by the garden’s lush greenery and rust-colored background. The Sulphur Springs you just bathed in are the source of this waterfall which explains the mineral-stained rock wall. There are also mineral baths in the botanical gardens you can bathe in (sans mud this time) if one dip wasn’t enough for the day and I highly recommend you do!
The sweet side
The most renowned beach on the island is nestled right between the two iconic Pitons and has a name as sweet as its location – Sugar Beach. This stretch of imported white sand offers dramatic views of the peaks and the chic crowd that descends from the adjoining 5-star Viceroy Resort. You’re free to visit for the day, laze on the gorgeous beach and go snorkeling along the shore but don’t forget your towel as those comfy loungers are for hotel guests (or real heavy tippers!).
It’s totally worth making a day or half-day of it. The open-air restaurant is fabulous for sipping rosé and feasting on wood-fired dishes perfect for hot summer days.
If satisfying your sweet tooth is more of your jam than laying on a beautiful beach, a stop at nearby Rabot Hotel and Restaurant should help curb your cravings. Part of Hotel Chocolat (a British chocolate manufacturer and cacao grower), the estate is set on a working cacao farm and the best place to immerse yourself in the local cacao delights in all shapes and forms.
The open-air restaurant overlooks the Petit Piton and is surrounded by a lush jungle. You feel miles away from civilization even though the main road and Soufrière are close by.
It’s a unique chance to try “cacao cuisine” which makes use of every part of the cacao pods, both sweet and savory, in fascinating recipes and pairings. From the bread course which came with cacao butter and dipping sauces and Cacao Bellini cocktail made with fresh cacao pulp to my main course of seared yellowfin tuna covered in cacao butter sauce and cacao nibs, the menu is as stunning as the setting.
Leave room for desserts which unsurprisingly outnumber the other dishes. My “So Creole” ending married pieces of caramelized rum pineapple on top of a Creole vanilla cream, a coconut cocoa sponge, and a delicious rum and raisin ice cream.
You can spend a cacao-filled day here between eating, walking the trails that snake their way through the farm, perhaps booking a spa treatment (cacao body wrap anyone?) and joining one of the on-site experiences.
A short walk up a hill brings you to their Projet Chocolat pavilion where you can shop the local cacao-derived products they make, taste chocolates and liqueur (the cacao gin was especially good) and partake in their immersive “bean to bar experience”.
After hours on the estate, a filling cacao-based meal, and more tastings and indulgences you’ve allowed yourself in a very long time, you’re now crushing fresh cacao nibs with sugar in a hot mortar to make your own chocolate bar. As you salivate at the intoxicating smell of it all you realize there truly IS always room for chocolate…
End the sweetest day with a sunset drink overlooking the Pitons, perhaps a gin from Rabot Estate served neat to appreciate all the cacao nuances you’ve trained your palate to discern today.
Active Pursuits
With yesterday’s sugar rush still coursing through your veins, now’s the time to get out there and explore some of St Lucia’s “bumpy” playground. If you’re up for a morning challenge, hiking the 2,619-foot Gros Piton is a great way to get some nice views along the way and your heart pumping.
The roughly 4-hour hike is thankfully in the shade for the most part though can be steep at times so you’re going to work those calf muscles!
Reaching the top brings views towards the north of the island, taking in the island’s highest peak of Mount Gimie (3,120 ft) in the distance.
If you’re looking for a more gentle hike, the popular Tet Paul Scenic Trail is a wonderful alternative.
You get to walk through agricultural land, coming up close to the local crops and perhaps even getting a taste of what’s in season.
You get better sea views from this hike and can look all the way down at Sugar Beach’s enviable location.
Next, hit the water on a half day boat tour, leaving from the beach right in Soufrière. It’s a great way to fully appreciate the topography of the island and take a peak at the luxurious waterfront villas and posh resorts.
Entering Marigot Bay is like slipping inside a bottle with a carefully constructed Caribbean bay model, all pristine and perfectly proportioned. The tall palm trees, the still mirror-like turquoise water, the iconic sailboats, the perched millionaires’ mansions… the natural harbour screams glamour and celebrities the moment you lay eyes on it.
You could stop by for a bite at one of the very chic restaurants or stay on the water in the hopes of spotting someone famous from what is inarguably the best vantage point.
Swap luxury for history in the next stop at Pigeon IslandNational Park on the northern side of St Lucia. This distinctively-shaped islet is where the naval power and control of the island was decided in the 18th century.
You can hike up to the fort the British army built when they invaded French-owned St Lucia for amazing views.
A man-made causeway now links the island with the western coast of the mainland.
End your boat tour with a bit of snorkeling in one of the secluded bays on your way back to Soufrière.
You only need to go knee deep to find yourself surrounded by a myriad of sea creatures.
These are just a handful of the things you can do on this varied and adventure-packed island. Including some well-deserved relaxation time by the beach or the pool means you can easily fill an entire week or more in St Lucia without ever getting bored. Add to this the perfect weather, great food, friendly people, beautiful beaches, …ok maybe substracting a few points for driving on the left on crazy curvy mountain roads (!) and you have honestly one of the best Caribbean island in my opinion.
Next post I’ll share a little secret with you – an absolute gem of accommodation for the “relaxing” part of your week…
