After checking off the main sights on the East Coast of Jeju, namely the tuft cone of Seongsan Ilchulbong and Udo Island, leave plenty of time to explore the Southwest with its quirky museums and the unmissable Hallasan National Park smack in the center. With your base in Seogwipo, you have easy access to all the hikes and sights and can fill your days with a mix of nature and culture at your own pace, except perhaps for the one day you’ll tackle the mountain!

Hiking Mount Hallasan

On the way to Hallasan, make a quick stop at the lovely and secluded Wonang Fall. Much less visited than the waterfalls in Seogwipo, you’ll likely have a quiet moment here and it’s only a 10-min walk down to the falls.

If you’re up for the challenge, hiking Mount Hallasan – South Korea’s highest peak at 1950m (6,400 feet) – is an absolute must! While it’s a strenuous hike, it is not technical at all and with enough time most people can certainly climb it. There are two trails to the summit and a clear favorite is going up via the Seongpanak Trail (9.6km) which has the most gradual ascent and public transport access, and going down via the Gwaneumsa Trail (8.7km) which is more scenic but steeper.

There are clear signs everywhere and even posts to tell slow movers or late comers when they should turn around if they’ve reached certain markers after a specific time… brilliant. Get ready for an amazing day and workout! A few important notes: Due to the extreme popularity of this hike, you need to reserve your spot in advance and get there super early (trail opens at 6am). Even arriving at 8am I found the large parking lot already full and had to park far away and take a shuttle. Once you’re on the trail though, it’s all bliss and quads as you walk first through a beautiful forest, especially stunning in the fall.

This has to be one of the most well-maintained trails I’ve been on, understandably with the amount of people hiking it every day. Besides the initial forested section, the rest of the climb is a giant staircase of solid wood which will make you feel your glutes for the next few days at least…

As you get nearer to the top you get rewarding views over the south side of the island with Seogwipo spread out in the distance.

Reaching the summit after a few hours of stair climbing feels like a momentous achievement – you’re standing on the highest point in all of South Korea! It also came with another first for me: a line up to take a selfie with the summit marker! Yup, not wanting to stand behind the 100 or so Koreans queuing for their photo op, I skipped the celebratory picture in favor of finding a little spot to quickly ingest my lunch and take in the views before going back down.

Besides the nearly 360 views you get of the island, you can’t miss the giant crater at the top of this dormant volcano. Spanning 3km in circumference, it usually contains a lake but was evidently dry when I was there in October.

After a quick rest, it’s time to head back down, this time on the Gwaneumsa Trail. The views are absolutely fantastic for the initial portion as you descend with the capital Jeju-si right in front of you.

The trail is much more varied on this side, crossing small gorges over bridges, dipping in and out of tree covers.

It eventually follows a riverbed for a little while, letting you know you’re back to lower elevation. We even spotted a couple of roe deer feeding by the side of the trail. Eventually, after a long descent, you’ll emerge at the parking area of the Gwaneumsa trail and can hop on a bus to your car or call a taxi from there. You deserve a giant dinner and an early night sleep!

Artsy West Jeju

The next day is the perfect day to get in the car and explore a few cultural and more chilled attractions as you nurse your sore muscles from yesterday’s hike. Replenish your energy levels with a typical Korean breakfast of beef gimbap and coffee in Seogwipo (highly recommend going to 카페랑스, 192 Donghong-ro) and hit the road.

The Bonte Museum will appear familiar to those who have ventured to Seopjikoji in the East – the building was designed by Tadao Ando, the same Japanese architect behind the Glass House and Yumin Art Nouveau Collection. The exquisite design, the concrete, the water features… there’s as much enjoyment navigating the building and its five exhibition halls than in admiring the artworks on display.

The smallish and curated spaces showcase world-renowned pieces by the likes of Dali, Andy Warhol and Botero…

…alongside traditional Korean crafts which are instantly elevated by being so harmoniously presented. I was charmed by the textiles and the mother of pearl accent furniture.

The outside is a sculpture park revealing large scale works up and around each corner of the building.

Popping out like a giant ray of sunshine, the unmistakable polka dots and pumpkins of celebrated Japanese artist Yayoi Kusama lead you to her permanent exhibition at the museum.

Enter a mini universe of pop art and get your time (without the usual long lines!) in her famous infinity mirror room for a truly magical morning.

Don’t miss climbing the stairs to the rooftop for a few more sculptures and a gorgeous view over the southwest and its outlying islands.

Back in the car, continue with the art theme heading west with a stop at the Jeju Museum of Contemporary Art.

Permanent exhibitions by Kim Heung-soo (the “Picasso of Korea”) and special exhibits of local artists’ works from the 20th and 21st century are centered around themes of the environment, nature, and Jeju.

Here too they make the most of immersing art with nature with sculptures dotted across the outdoor area.

Break the day with a leisurely lunch at one of the many small family-owned restaurants. I had one of the greatest meals of the week at Chef Kang’s Kitchen (558 Daehan-ro) where just the banchan served before my main course arrived topped every one I had anywhere else in South Korea.

Next came the octopus bibimbap and homemade tangerine ice cream, both just wow.

Tea immersion

The nearby Ossuloc Tea Museum makes for an ideal post-lunch stop. Korea’s largest tea company invites tea enthusiasts to learn about the process in the middle of their verdant fields and indulge in tea products of all kinds.

Get a high level view of the farm from the sleek observatory on the upper floors of the building before going back down to stroll among its green tea fields.

You’ll want to stock up in the shop inside for all things tea-based, from uniquely flavored green teas mixed on site to tea-infused body products and chocolates. There’s also a very popular cafe where you can taste bright green beverages and desserts (all tea-based of course).

Volcanic coastal walk

End the day with an invigorating ocean walk along the Yongmeori coast.

What a spectacular coastal trail to follow with soaring cliffs and natural rock formations to your left and scenic ocean views to your right.

You’re walking on the oldest volcanic formation in Jeju and there’s lots to uncover if you slow down. Take a look into the narrow clefts, under natural archways, and into the mini pools forming in the eroded floor.

The 1-mile loop is quickly over but there’s an easy extension you can add when you get back on the mainland.

Looking at the craggy Sanbangsan mountain, you can easily spot a large golden Buddha to the right which is easier to get to than it might appear.

A 15-minute steep walk will bring you to Sanbanggulsa temple and gorgeous views of the coast.

Much bigger up close, the golden statue of the Buddha and the surrounding shrines bring a peaceful ending to a day packed with the uniquely beautiful and artsy west side of Jeju.

Alas, this is where my trip concluded, though not before fitting in one last delicious cake and snapping this “only in Korea” sign at the airport… 🙂

Seogwipo, Jeju’s second largest city, is where you should base yourself if you only have a few days on the island. With beautiful coastal scenery, easy access to the main highlights including Mount Hallasan, and plenty of food options in a walkable city center, doing day trips from here to explore Jeju is ideal.

The city is perfect for nature lovers with several leafy parks and waterfalls all within its limits. Start at the waterfront by visiting Saeseom Island which you access from the sail-like bridge that stretches across the harbor.

A densely wooded trail takes you around the island on boardwalk, leading to great views of the coast, perfect for a quick sunset stroll.

Back on the harbor, a few minutes walk away will lead you to a beautifully forested gorge, following a shaded path with bridges and temples.

Your destination is the popular Cheonjiyeon Waterfall, literally right in the center of town.

From there you can walk up the hill to get to the city center, stopping for a quick refreshment with views on the way.

Visiting the local market is always a highlight for me and you won’t regret passing through Seogwipo Olle Market. It’s as laid-back as the town and a wonderful opportunity to sample some of the locally-grown produce and traditional foods.

Fruits are in abundance, especially the local tangerines which are clearly not all created equal with quality grading and varying prices.

Lots of fresh seafood too which is harder to try when traveling, but there’s plenty of sweets and donuts stalls that make for a quick and easy snack.

For something more filling, street food options abound. You could get some of that fresh seafood prepared Japanese style or try a local specialty, like this black pork kimchi roll which they finish with a blow torch right in front of you. So so good!

The streets surrounding the market are vibrant and filled with cute cafes and galleries. Look for two playful Shibas in front of a cream-colored storefront to find the refreshing treat you were looking for…

… freshly made monakas! The Japanese dessert is most often found in convenience stores but here they make it to order right in front of you – two thin, crisp wafers sandwiching your choice of homemade ice cream. I went with strawberry which was light and the combo of crunchy and cold ice cream was just heavenly.

A 15-minute walk east of the town center will bring you to yet another waterfall – Jeongbang. While not as big or as dramatic as other waterfalls nearby, its claim to fame is that it’s the only waterfall in Asia that falls into the ocean…hence a favorite with photographers.

When it comes to picking a place to stay, there are plenty of attractive options from modern city hotels to seafront resorts, but one stood out for me and ended up being a truly memorable stay: Jeju Bom Museum Stay.

Perched on one of the hills outside of town amid tangerine farms, this artsy boutique hotel had everything I wanted: quiet surroundings, gorgeous sea views, impeccable design, its own museum (!), beautiful art everywhere, and a warm family hosting you.

There’s a peaceful sculpture garden where you can just meander or sit and relax by the pond.

Your stay also includes a private tour of the museum’s two permanent exhibitions: one with works from a famous Korean sculptor, and the other one a site-specific installation of traditional Korean paper hanging above water, both mesmerizing.

You can grab a drink at the hotel bar/restaurant (local beer + peanuts hit the spot) or indulge in a convenience store snack which I love doing all over Asia. Bungeoppang are Korean fish shaped pastries filled with various fillings such as sweet red bean paste, yummy!

Back into town, Cafe Pausa has tangerine blossom wine made by the owner, a slightly sweet and delightful drink to enjoy while watching the sun go down.

Dinner options are plentiful and range from street food to casual sit downs and fancier affairs. I really enjoyed my meal at Leogkisanghoe Seasonal Fish, a must try for seafood lovers if you come to Seogwipo. The kimchi fried rice with egg and the raw tuna belly tartare were both incredible.

Now for a superlative raw fish experience, book a seat at the tiny Hachi restaurant just outside Seogwipo. With only 8 seats, it’s an intimate omakase experience you’ll remember, prepared and served with smiles and conversation by Chef Jun Seok-chang, formerly of Lotte Hotel in Seoul.

The never-ending dishes (not all of them featured here) were varied and exquisite. I especially appreciated having a chance to taste fresh fish caught in Jeju which I had never heard of before.

I honestly don’t know how I was able to ingest so many pieces but that’s just a testament to the quality which was superb.

It’s all right, tomorrow I’ll be burning all those extra calories going up Mount Hallasan…

Jeju island’s east coast has many highlights, and one of them is the small island of Udo. Although it is the largest of the 62 islets surrounding Jeju, it can be walked in just a couple of hours and visitors get treated to scenic views, unique attractions, a serene isolation that is hard to come by…and lots of peanuts! When I discovered I could combine my love of walking with a local culinary specialty, I was sold on going to Udo and I’m so glad I did.

Getting to Udo couldn’t be easier – just get on one of the ferries that leave right by Seongsan Ilchulbong (volcano) every 30 minutes for the 15-minute ride. As you approach the island, see if you can make up how it got its nickname of “Cow Island” due to its hill resembling a cow lying down…

While you can take your car on the ferry, it’s really not necessary and most people come on foot. My plan was to walk the official Olleh Trail 1-1, part of Jeju’s extensive 430km network of trails meant to open up Jeju’s unique culture and scenery to visitors in a slow, meandering way. The trail on Udo circumnavigates the entire island over 11km with a few inland excursions, leaving plenty of time to admire the beautiful scenery and enjoy some of the island’s culinary specialties. No need for a map, simply turn right when getting off the ferry and you’ll see signs pointing you to the trail which hugs the coastline most of the way.

You’ll pass by many tributes to the famous haenyeo, the female free-divers of Jeju, as Udo is (and was) home to quite a few of them. Real legends for an island with a population of just over 1,500 residents.

You’ll soon arrive at one of Udo’s (and Jeju’s) most famous sites: Seobin Baeksa. The stunning beach has appeared in numerous Korean movies and TV commercials with its blinding white sand and turquoise sea. You might have it all to yourself as did I, and able to enjoy a meditative walk observing the many variations of blue of the sea, the sound of waves gently lapping the shore…Udo is already showing off and you’ve only been walking for less than 30 minutes!

Not everyone opt to walk though as I could tell by how quiet the trail was. It appears that renting a “scooter-car” or electric tuk-tuk is the preferred way to explore the island.

Continue walking along the shore, passing by quaint little vacation resorts facing the beach.

When hungry, grab a delicious homemade “black burger” at Bongkkeulang Black Pork made with a black garlic bun and pork patty – great fuel for the road ahead.

A bit further, the only main intersection on the island seems almost comical. Perhaps the roundabout is to direct the flow of tuk-tuk during summer rush hours?

Soon you’ll see the path divert slightly inland and start going up to Udobong Peak, the highest point on Udo.

Visit the lighthouse at the top for panoramic views of the island and the surrounding sea.

The peak is surrounded by a spacious park and the trail now slowly goes down and enters a small forest.

Emerge out of the trees in bright sunlight and find yourself in front of one of Udo’s top scenic views: Black Sand Beach. Its shape, color and unique cliff formation were all created from volcanic activity and look stunning against the blue sky.

Extend your viewing pleasure by getting your first taste of the island’s famous peanuts at Jimmy’s Natural Ice Cream. The original peanut soft serve is delicious, especially when eaten overlooking the beach.

As you make your way north, your entire field of vision is filled with shades of blue from the tranquil sea which never seems to end. Tiny secluded beaches invite you to dip your toes in, the shallow waters so clear you can see the bottom almost all the way up to the horizon. Sculptures of seafarers and haenyeo add visual interest to the coast, not that it needs it!

Hagosudong beach has the perfect tranquil setting for a picnic or just to sit on a dune and look out at the open water.

But there’s an even better sitting situation just at the end of it in Blanc Rocher cafe.

It seems the secret is out as it was the busiest spot I’d seen on the island all day, and it’s easy to understand why. With minimalist vibes and the room fully open to the outside, it’s a piece of breezy Mediterranean chic on Udo you’ll want to stay in for a while.

The scenery isn’t the only reason to visit though, as the cafe also serves indulgent treats all made with the island’s renowned peanuts: my peanut latte and peanut Basque cheesecake were superb…

At this point the trail heads inland to cross the island, going from the east coast to the west coast in less than 20 minutes. This stretch offers no sea views but an interesting insider look into the rural interior and locals’ way of living.

Houses and businesses have large tarps of peanuts drying in the sun – Udo’s precious gold.

Eventually you’ll find yourself back at the ferry after about 5-6 hours walking nearly the entire circumference of the island and feeling just wonderful about it!

The quick ride back to Jeju lets you see one last time the dazzling beaches and “cow hill” you just scaled up.

In front, the familiar and welcoming sight of Seongsan Ilchulbong now bathing in the late afternoon sun.

There’s still time to enjoy one more ice cream for the day (!) – after all you did walk quite a bit. Stop by the cheerful Cali Soft Serve at the foot of the volcano for a refreshing hallabong (local tangerine) cone.

Dinner at Dr. SUYUK got me to try the specialty suyuk, a simple dish of boiled pork slices. Tender, flavorful and the perfect end to the day’s outdoor pursuits. Tomorrow, I’ll be heading west!

Often dubbed the “Hawaii of Korea”, Jeju Island (Jeju-do for the locals) deserves a top spot on your South Korea itinerary. After nearly a week spent in Seoul, I was looking forward to a nature escape away from the crowds which I got and so much more in Jeju. Korea’s largest island has long been a favorite holiday destination for South Koreans with its lush countryside, beautiful beaches, and slow pace all a quick 1h15m flight from the capital. With budget airlines flying to Jeju from Seoul multiple times a day, adding a side trip to this gorgeous place when visiting South Korea truly is a no-brainer.

Between stunning trails, hidden waterfalls, impressive museums and local delicacies, the island packs a lot in and you’ll have no trouble filling at least a few days with wonders. For this reason I’d recommend you rent a car for maximum flexibility. While Jeju has a pretty efficient bus system going around the island, driving is super easy-going. Rental cars come with English-speaking GPS and I think the max speed I saw was 50mph and not for long! Once you have your transport secured at the airport in the capital Jeju-si, it’s time to hit the road and head east.

Volcano views

A 45-minute drive from the airport brings you straight to Jeju’s most impressive sight: Seongsan Ilchulbong. The extinct tuff volcano (a Unesco World Heritage site) looks like an ancient castle rising from the ocean. It’s a popular hike, especially at sunrise, and it’s worth staying overnight in the sleepy village of Seongsan-ri right at its base just for the privilege.

I’ve done plenty of sunrise hikes and this was one of the easiest and most rewarding. The way up is a bit steep but easy with wide stairs leading you all the way up to the crater rim in about 20 minutes. You certainly won’t be alone as this is a pilgrimage of sort for Koreans coming to admire the spectacle and what a beautiful view it is.

The village starts waking up just around then and walking down you get beautiful aerial views of the peninsula and its black sand beaches.

Coastal walk & spectacular architecture

Start your day’s road trip with a fuel stop at Fritz Coffee Company, the popular Seoul-based coffee shop’s Jeju outpost.

With flaky pastries, solid espresso drinks, volcano views and plenty of space, this was by far my favorite coffee shop on the entire island.

A few minutes away, the Seopjikoji peninsula jut out to sea with a scenic trail bringing you to some stunning buildings and vistas.

Japanese master architect Ando Tadao built two impressive structures on the peninsula which are destinations in themselves. The first one you’ll see is the Yumin Art Nouveau Collection, Korea’s first art nouveau gallery which opened in 2017.

As soon as you cross the concrete façade, you’re immersed into the architect’s renowned engagement with nature. Paths leading to gardens and water features invite you to feel the light, wind, water, and sound of Seopjikoji.

Every step you take is meant to aid meditation which isn’t hard in such a quiet and beautiful place. The simplicity of the design lets you experience mother nature in expanded ways, like walking between two concrete walls of gentle waterfalls rippling over straight carved lines…you feel so at peace.

An opening in a wall made of volcanic rocks perfectly frames Seongsan Ilchulbong in yet another mastery of nature as art…

At the end of the walk, an indoor gallery exhibits the glass works of leading French Art Nouveau artists who used nature as the primary source of inspiration. The dark ‘Room of Masterpiece’ features the mushroom lamp by Emile Gallé from 1902, considered the collection’s most representative and best preserved work.

The stunning sights continue as you exit the gallery only to be staring at the architect’s other contribution to the peninsula – the Glass House.

The arresting glass and concrete building has a neat little cafe on the ground floor and a fine dining restaurant with observation deck on the second floor. As it was built to face the volcano, again here you get panoramic views framed by modern design and nature.

Follow the trail which continues gently along the craggy coastline past a small lighthouse and eventually loops back towards the parking lot.

Village life

Head southwest along the coast to reach Jeju Folk Village, a re-enacted 19th-century village. The restaurant at the entrance is a famous Jeju buckwheat restaurant and a wonderful place to stop for lunch as there’s quite a bit to see in the village. The traditional dish of chewy cold buckwheat noodles topped with various vegetables, grains, seaweed and seeds was absolutely delightful.

The expansive educational village gathers over 100 meticulously recreated and some original traditional buildings from across the island in an attractively designed park.

I felt it was easier to step back in time here compared with Seoul’s Namsangol Hanok Village where the city’s skyscrapers were a constant reminder of the modern city all around. Here, nestled quietly in the island’s native flora with very few visitors, the traditional lifestyle of Jeju was truly coming to life.

Cultural exhibits and recreated scenes with models shed light on a way of life so foreign to our own.

Houses are grouped into various villages to show the differences between mountain, hill-country, and fishing life.

You can even get a glimpse at Jeju’s famous black-skinned pigs who feature on menus all over the island and various local crops in the houses’ backyards and gardens.

Hallabong tangerines are plentiful as they were also a popular crop to cultivate back then as they are today.

Bridging convenience and authenticity, even the 7-Eleven got remodeled to blend in so you can grab your snack while staying in character…

And of course you’ll find specially designated areas for selfies and group photos – not original to 1890s…

The amazing haenyeo

End the day by driving back east and up the coast to experience the real fishing life which most tourists overlook and learn about the island’s most famous women – the haenyeo. Leave the main road to slowly drive along the seashore for splendid ocean views until you reach the Hanenyeo Museum.

Whether you know nothing about Jeju’s incredible women free divers or have done some research (I read The Island of Sea Women before the trip which I highly recommend!), the museum is a wonderful and quick introduction to their history and culture. For centuries they have been diving under the sea for shellfish, sea cucumbers, sea urchins and anything else edible without the help of oxygen masks. While it’s a dying way of life, many local women are still diving today well into their 80s and if you’re lucky you might be able to watch them on the beach with their gear going in or coming back with their catch.

Walk the museum grounds to find related artwork and the foundation of a traditional bulteok where they would warm their bodies between dives and change their clothes.

End the day fittingly with a locally caught meal of abalone and porridge from one of the seafront eateries near the museum such as Myeongjin Abalone.