Madeira’s most famous hiking trail is reason alone to fly to the island (many outdoor fans come here expressly for this). With several of the highest peaks in Portugal concentrated on this little tropical paradise, it’s no surprise to find such a stunning hike here with the kind of views and terrain you’ll remember forever. Known officially as PR1 Vereda do Arieiro, and unofficially as Pico to Pico, the trail links the third and highest points on the island – Pico do Arieiro and Pico Ruivo – over 4.3 miles of breathtaking landscape.

Be prepared logistically and you’ll have a fantastic time! It’s recommended to do the trail one way, start as early as you can (weather gets worse as the day progresses), and get your transportation booked beforehand. Few people want to retrace their steps to do the loop and go back to their cars as it would be a lot of elevation gain and a tiring day! The ideal way to tackle Pico to Pico is to book a shuttle which will drop you at the start at the summit of Pico do Arieiro early morning to catch the sunrise and pick you up at the other end roughly 5-6 hours later. It should take about 3.5-4 hours to walk the trail but you’ll want some stops to take in the insane scenery along the way and grab a snack towards the end.

You won’t be alone at this ungodly early hour of the morning at the 3rd highest summit (5,900ft) on the island. Watching the sunrise from Pico do Arieiro with a 360-degree panorama over the ocean and the highlands is a spectacle that attracts crowds, not just hikers, since it’s reachable by car. Do a little morning meditation and get ready for an amazing hike.

The trail starts gently right by the summit’s parking lot, already treating you to superlative views.

It’s not long before you reach your first viewpoint, Ninho da Manta (Buzzard’s Nest).

The small balcony provides picturesque views over Madeira’s Central Mountain Range and its majestic rock formations just getting hit by the first light of day.

Climb steadily up and look back to see the viewpoint which appears so small against the rugged mountains.

From here starts the real fun as you begin to experience the trail’s many ups and downs and exposed ridges.

One of them is probably the most photographed part of the trail as you slowly make your way across a thin ridge with sheer drops on both sides. Not for people with vertigo though a thrilling section with unbeatable views down into the valley if you dare to look!

If you can take your eyes off the mountains and valleys for a minute, you might even be able to spot some wildlife. A beautiful red-legged partridge was pecking at the ground, totally unbothered by us.

You soon encounter your first of five tunnels which have you go through the mountains. You switch from side to side, from sun to shade, gaining a new perspective each time.

There are some very narrow sections where you’re nearly hugging the cliff on your side, excited to discover what lays around the next turn.

Another tunnel! They’re not long enough to justify bringing a headlamp though some hikers did carry one. I found the light from my phone to be plenty, and mostly just to avoid banging my head and walking in deep puddles.

More down and up on the other side.

Once you reach the staircase, it’s time for the toughest workout of the hike – a steep climb across Pico das Torres using near vertical stairs. You’ll want to stop for water and food a few times to replenish your energy, and it’s probably the place where you’ll see the most hikers apart from the summit as everyone will be breaking the climb in parts.

Once you’ve made it through though, it’s all pretty easy going from here. You emerge on the other side in a totally different, striking landscape dotted with burned, white trees. They are remnants of a large wildfire that swept through the area years ago.

You finally catch your first glimpse of the summit of Pico Ruivo, now within reach, and start the slow and gentle ascent.

There’s a tea house and restrooms right before the final leg if you need a break. Only 10 more minutes of trudging uphill!

You finally make it to the highest point in Madeira – Pico Ruivo (6,109ft) – congrats!

The reward is a 360 view across the whole island, well minus what’s hidden underneath the clouds with most of them below you right now.

You can see the tea house and the path you’re soon going to take since the summit is not the end of the hike if you’re doing it one way. You still need to reach the pick up point which is another hour’s walk away.

Enjoy the views from every side as you slowly make your way back down.

You’ve officially finished PR1 which concluded at the summit, and are now starting PR1.2 which will bring you to Acha dos Teixeira and the parking lot where the shuttles and taxis are picking hikers up.

It’s an easy, relatively flat walk with absolutely breathtaking views.

Take a look back to see the summit and appreciate the hard work you’ve just put in!

This section is so pleasant as you literally walk on top of the clouds for a while… I didn’t want it to end!

Eventually you’ll see the end and the large parking of Achada do Teixeira where your shuttle will be waiting to drive you back to Funchal.

You’ll likely arrive here well before pickup time so you can enjoy the nice facilities, grab a drink and a snack at the cafe, and marvel at the incredible scenery you just traversed. Easily one of the nicest hikes you’ve done so far. And it’s just the beginning of the afternoon so you still have plenty of day time to explore more, or take a well-deserved break!

This is a wonderful full day itinerary to combine with your city break in Funchal and a few other activities in the center. While not as mountainous as the heart of Madeira, the eastern coast is easy to get to and has surreal landscapes and charming coastal towns. You can either rent a car for the day as we did or go with a group tour advertising “East tour of Madeira”, there are quite a few.

As you head out of Funchal going east, you immediately start climbing and quickly getting some sweet views from roadside viewpoints.

About 15 minutes into the ride, you arrive at the Cristo Rei observation deck. Standing proudly on a cliff overlooking the Atlantic ocean, the 14 meters high statue of Jesus Christ was built in 1927 and from here you can get some splendid views of the ocean.

Machico

Continuing on the coastal road north for another 20 minutes brings you to another interesting viewpoint – Miradouro de Machico. Before heading down to the town, it’s a great panoramic view of Madeira’s first settlement (oldest town) and its wide bay. It’s here that the Portuguese explorer who discovered Madeira, João Gonçalves Zarco, first came ashore in 1419.

Wander through the old quarter and grab a coffee in the leafy central square. Soak up the history and very chilled atmosphere despite it being the second largest city on the island.

Take a little stroll on the crescent beach for the views and cooling breeze. The majority of it is rocky but a separate section is filled with beautiful golden sand (imported from Morocco!), a popular swimming spot.

Ponta de São Lourenço

This is one of my favorite places on the entire island, if you have only time for one stop on your east tour – make it this one! I first caught a glimpse of the island’s easternmost peninsula from my flight right before landing and couldn’t wait to explore it.

The Ponta de São Lourenço hike takes you through an otherworldly volcanic landscape with breathtaking views over the north and south sides. It’s roughly 7km (less than 5 miles) of undulating, moderate terrain so you can expect to complete it in less than 3 hours. As one of the most popular trails on the island, you certainly won’t be alone but the vast peninsula will still deliver plenty of quiet stretches and nearly empty vistas.

The semi-arid landscape devoid of trees is such a contrast with the forested interior. You’ll marvel at the uninterrupted views of the ocean, jagged cliffs and rusty color palette.

Black basalt cliffs with red stripes and crashing waves make for a dramatic coastline.

Once you get to the short ridge walk you’re past the halfway mark and can enjoy a beautiful vantage point from here.

You’re also within sight of the oasis aka the bar! Impossible to miss, the lone building surrounded by a few palm trees is Cais do Sardinha (or Sardine House) , the only shaded spot on the peninsula and a great excuse for a quick rest and a bite.

The path then climbs up over a steep hill. Turn around to see how far you’ve come already!

The trail eventually ends at Miradouro Ponta do Furado and its sweeping panoramic vista.

As everywhere else in Madeira, the weather is likely to change several times during your walk, especially with the strong winds on the peninsula so be ready for anything! We started under the cover of clouds but by the time we turned around, the sun was shining and the light gave a brand new perspective on the way back, the colors much brighter.

Take time to admire the flora, some of which is unique to Madeira.

Even though you’re essentially retracing your steps, the views are no less spectacular as you face the island – what a sight.

Porto da Cruz

Leave Ponta de São Lourenço and head east along the northeast coast. You’ll immediately notice the difference with its southern, more developed counterpart. This stretch of the coast is definitely wilder, more rugged, with a raw beauty that’ll have you make frequent stops to capture the dramatic cliffs and black sand beaches.

Make your way down to the small village of Porto da Cruz for your well-deserved lunch break.

The buzziest place in this tiny village, snack bar A Pipa serves traditional food in a convivial atmosphere. From the rustic outdoor terrace to the warm, old stone walls of the interior room, it feels like you’re eating in a mountain chalet with all the comforting dishes (and plenty of poncha!) you could ever want.

Being so close to the water, it’s a great place to try limpets, another one of Madeira’s unique seafood delicacy. These clam-like mollusks are most often served grilled and seasoned with butter and garlic with a lemon on the side. They’re the perfect appetizer with a cold beer and a bolo do caco (local bread) to soak up all the delicious juices.

Grilled squid with garlic butter was also a hit.

Right behind the restaurant you’ll find one of Madeira’s few sugar mills still working, North Mills Distillery.

You can take a tour to see how they process the sugarcane to make aguardente (rum) and molasses, or you can just chill in their bar and gift shop to sample the production.

There’s a nice pedestrian walkway you can take from the distillery to walk around the short headland and pass by Porto da Cruz’s famous bathing complex. Although empty on this winter day, I can imagine the thrill of swimming here under the summer sun surrounded by this stunning scenery.

Santana

Your final stop of the day, Santana, is mostly known for its enchanting storybook houses known as palheiros.  The triangular thatched buildings date from the 16th century, and while a few are still inhabited, most are now used as gift shops and tourist information center.

The most photographed in the center of the village is the perfect representation of a classic house from the area: two-story, white stucco exterior, brightly painted red door, red and blue window frames, and a thatched roof.

Walking around, you can find some of the still inhabited ones which stand out adorably among the more modern buildings around them.

Even the local market opted to mimic the traditional architecture.

And that’s a wrap on the eastern tour of Madeira! Even though it seems like we covered a lot, you’re still just a 40 minutes drive away from Funchal so you can tick off many sights in one day. Next, we’ll be heading west….

With gorgeous spring-like weather year round, spending as much time outside while on Madeira is easy. Even if you’re just in Funchal for a long weekend, you can fit in quite a few mini adventures a stroll or a short drive away to experience the island’s unique terrain.

Câmara de Lobos & Cabo Girão

The easiest escapade is to go for a beautiful stroll along the seafront promenade from the center of Funchal all the way to Câmara de Lobos. It takes approximately 2 hours and is packed with scenic views as you pass by beaches, parks, resorts and rocky shorelines.

You could even break the walk by stopping at one of the many “lido” and natural swimming pools that are dotted all along the coast.

You arrive in Câmara de Lobos, a charming fishing village and one of the most photographed bays on the island. Winston Churchill used to set up his easel right here to paint the quaint port on his visits which no doubt contributed to its enduring popularity.

Little has changed since and wandering along the harbour would bring out the artist in anyone with its brightly colored fishing boats set beside dark lava rocks.

A quick walk around the port area reveals more colors and old bars where fishermen down poncha after a day’s work.

Walk a further 5 minutes to reach Henriques & Henriques, one of Madeira’s most prestigious wine producers.

You can drop in for a tasting any time which is a wonderful way to get introduced to the island’s eponymous drink. Regardless if you’re a fortified wine lover or not, there’s such history and character in Madeira wine that sampling a few vintages is a must on your visit. You might be pleasantly surprised and seduced by the sweet and complex elixir.

From dry and nutty to full-bodied and port-like, there’s a bottle for every taste, and the older Vintages (aged 20 years or more) are not to be missed.

After a few glasses, call a taxi for the quick and very scenic climb up the coastal road to the top where you’ll find Cabo  Girão. You’re standing on one of the highest cliffs in the world and the views both east and west are truly sensational.

There’s an exhilarating viewpoint (or terrifying if you’re afraid of heights!) where only a glass floor and glass-paneled rail separate you from the 590 meters (1,900ft) plunge to the Atlantic below.

You’re in the middle of agricultural and wine country and if you look down, you can spot some pretty daring plots clinging to the base of the cliff.

Green terraces and rural settlements fill the landscape all the way to Funchal, with Madeira’s Desertas Islands in the distance.

Curral das Freiras

A taxi or bus can take you up the twisting mountain road north of Funchal to reach the middle of the island and the picturesque Curral das Freiras – or Refuge of the Nuns. This half-day trip combines great scenery, light hiking, and good food… and if you’re lucky some full circle rainbows. Ask to be dropped at Eira do Serrado for the viewpoint and the start of the hike down. The view from up here at 1,006 meters/3,300ft is breathtaking and takes in the entire valley as well as the village, surrounded by extinct volcanoes.

Curral das Freiras is a 16th century village that has been isolated from the outside world for most of its existence until tunnels were bored through the mountains in the 20th century to bring the first roads. Created by nuns who took refuge in this hidden crater to escape raiding pirates, it turned into a permanent settlement once they realized how fertile the volcanic soil was.

Today, visitors take in the splendid views on a nice walk down from the viewpoint before enjoying the village’s many culinary treats, from chestnut and cherry liquors to delicious cakes.

The mostly downhill path is clearly marked and well-paved, following switchbacks carved into the mountainside with plenty of photo ops along the way.

After a little over an hour you’ll arrive in the village. It’s frankly more remarkable aesthetically from high up but a good meal awaits. We had a delicious lunch at Sabores do Curral with views over the valley and traditional Portuguese dishes, including a sweet honey cake.

Hike along the Ribeiro Frio levada

There’s no doubt that the best way to explore Madeira is on foot and the network of levadas is one of the main reasons outdoor lovers flock to the island. Levadas are Madeira’s system of irrigation channels which carry the water down from the mountains on gentle gradients, hence creating the perfect network of trails! There are more than 1,300 miles of them all around the island that have footpaths running along their entire length and some of them are among the highlights of Madeira.

A popular route we did was to take the Levada do Furado, a mostly flat 11km walk following a canal with lush scenery, moss-covered tunnels and occasional views of the ocean. You really do feel totally immersed in nature and won’t mind the occasional shower which makes the canals sing and the ferns glisten.

Between short tunnels, a few pools, narrow passages and forested sections, there’s plenty of diversity and points of interests if the lack of elevation gain made you think these walks were perhaps boring…far from it!

The pools with mini waterfalls appear out of nowhere and are a good excuse for a quick stop.

You’ll often find some engineered canal diversion nearby and think it must really be raining every single day for there to be so. much. water.

After a few hours of this very lovely walk you’ll emerge out of the forest to find yourself in enchanting Ribeiro Frio. Walk past the trout hatchery and into the alpine-looking restaurant, calling you with its logs burning in the fireplace to dry off and grab a warm meal.

It is the perfect day to try another local specialty: a Madeiran tomato & onion soup with poached egg.

Replenished, there’s a shorter and even more spectacular hike that starts right by the restaurant – Vereda dos Balcões. This 1.8-mile easy out-and-back trail will bring you in a short amount of time to one of the island’s most beautiful viewpoint, after passing through a small forest and some valley views.

The Balcões viewpoint does not disappoint even if there are a few clouds…they just add to the dramatic topography. As you stand on a platform that seems suspended in mid-air, you’re treated to stupendous views across steep hillsides and deep ravines to the island’s highest peaks of Ruivo and Ariero.

You’ll also most certainly be able to interact with some local bird species who enjoy the views as much as you do.

Cruise & chill

Another great outdoor activity that doesn’t require a half-day is to take a leisure cruise from Funchal. There are tons of agencies advertising whale and dolphin watching tours by the marina that will take you on a 3hr cruise along the south side of the island with drinks and snacks – a fabulous way to relax.

Even if the wildlife sightings are low, the vantage point you get of the island is reason enough to get on a boat. You appreciate the dramatic coastline so much more from the ocean with its impressive sea cliffs and cloud-covered peaks.

Getting a close-up of Cabo Girão is also quite a treat especially if you’ve already been to the viewpoint at the top – a full circle moment that will make you fill incredibly small.

Similarly, you’ll appreciate the perfectly framed shot as you approach the bay of Câmara de Lobos. Walking there just didn’t provide the ideal angle but from a boat it appears just as it should be…

Once you’ve gotten a feel for the city and its food, it’s time to head out in its lush surroundings and none are as easy to get to and popular than Monte. The Monte Palace Tropical Gardens is a half-day excursion that is not to be missed for nature enthusiasts when visiting Funchal. And getting to it (and back) is a treat. Take the cable car that leaves from Funchal’s Old Town and head up to the hilltop, getting off at Monte. One more stop drops you off at the Botanical Gardens right above if you want to make it a full day.

The entrance to the gardens is right across from the cable car station, you literally can’t miss it. It also hides pretty well the wonders that await behind the walls as you enter at the very top.

There’s a little cafe by the entrance where you can sit on a lovely terrace and have a coffee and a sweet before starting your exploration. The view from up here is a surprising, beautifully lush vision of towering trees, mini waterfalls, Asian walkways… what is this enchanting place exactly? What you’re looking at is essentially the gorgeous garden surrounding Monte Palace – once the area’s most fashionable hotel which you’ll get to see later on.

Before heading down though, it’s worth going in the Monte Palace Museum. The top two floors are mostly devoted to modern and contemporary art though during my visit it was filled with the ‘African Passion’ collection, hundreds of Zimbabwean sculptures from the middle of the 19th century,

The ground floor exhibits a unique collection of minerals, gems, and petrified wood from around the world.

You’ll get a map at the entrance but I feel these gardens were designed for aimless wonder and contemplation. With curved trails, hidden grottos and fountains, and art everywhere, you’re in for a delightful walk whichever path you choose.

Azulejos panels of course make an appearance and look especially stunning surrounded by all the greenery.

You’ll no doubt stumble upon the koi pond in the middle of the two oriental gardens. No matter how busy the gardens get, somehow this little corner manages to remain serene and true to its spirituality.

All paths eventually lead to the central lake, and your first view of the palace. What a gorgeous setting! The large pond fringed by exotic plants, a waterfall, carved grottos, and a chateau-like residence really transports you back to the regal days.

Wildlife both real (swans and peacocks of course) and fake in the form of sculptures adds a touch of whimsy to the delightful scene.

The paths leading up from the pond brings you to a cooler, shaded section filled with stone arches and sculptures from different periods.

When not looking at art, nature is the show with hundreds of species of native and exotic flora in a vibrant palette of colors, from trees and ferns to delicate flowers. Simply wander under the canopy and you could imagine being in a number of different countries at once.

As you get closer to the palace, you can’t miss the cycads from South Africa standing next to more Zimbabwean sculptures.

The entire property was once the 18th century private residence of the British Consul for Madeira who transformed the grounds into a leisure estate.

The palace itself was built during the 19th century as a palatial house modeled after the palaces on the banks of the River Rhine. In 1897 the house was turned into the Monte Palace Hotel where the elite would gather and enjoy the finest views over Funchal.

About 40 years ago (1987), a passionate art collector and philanthropist acquired the property (palace and gardens) and turned it into what you see today – a celebration of cultural and natural diversity.

Check out the back where beautiful alcoves showcase more items from the collections, from tiled artwork to fine china.

When you’re ready to head back down to Funchal, you have three options: the cable car, walking (a nice one-hour walk down), OR via Monte’s famous wicker toboggans. This peculiar mode of transport was used in the 19th century to carry freight down the very steep hill between Monte and Funchal. Today, it carries tourists down using the same system as before and you can see and hear it right from the western edge of the gardens.

Two carreiros give an initial push and then ride along until another push (or sudden brake with their rubber soles!) is needed for about 2 km which lasts roughly 10 minutes. It’s a unique tradition and a thrill you can only experience here.

In addition to Portuguese specialties, Madeira has its own typical dishes which reflect both its location surrounded by the ocean and its tropical climate and flavors. Funchal is undisputedly its gastronomic capital with plenty of options from the tourist-leaning marina establishments to the traditional restaurants in the side streets and the Old Town filled with locals. One thing you won’t see here: chain restaurants. The culinary scene is local, fresh, casual and comforting and all of it seems to go down very well with a glass of local wine in hand.

Breakfast

Do like most Madeirans and start your day with a sweet pastry and coffee. There are tons of delicious pasteleria all over town so just follow your nose and the chatter. For a truly local experience, Pasteleria Pau de Canela right by the central market is the place to be in the morning. With a wide array of freshly baked specialties (queijadas are a popular choice) and a swift service, it’s perfect for people on their way to work.

Other sweet options include the Bola de Berlim, a fluffy Portuguese donut filled with jam or custard, and any freshly baked bread or brioche rolls, often made with potatoes and/or cheese.

For a more substantial or savory breakfast, you’ll also find modern cafes ready for your fix of avocado toasts, omelets, and smoothies like the Brunch Club.

I especially loved the cozy and earthy vibe of Prima Caju and its healthy options, as beautiful as they were tasty.

Lunch

Lunch can be anything you want it to be, from quick and filling to a multicourse meal. The always busy Delícia das Sopas has a daily rotation of 5 different soups where a big bowl served with a piece of bread and glass of wine will set you back about 6 euros.

A Madeiran trademark is the island’s flatbread called bolo do caco. Made from flour and sweet potato, it is ubiquitous in every cafes and snack bars and used to sandwich a variety of meat and cheese. Try the popular “Prego Especial” which combines the classic steak & garlic butter with ham, cheese, lettuce and tomato.

The seafront promenade is unbeatable for lunching in the sun with a view of the ocean and the boats passing by. Grab a table at the Santiago Beach Bar near the yellow fort in the eastern edge of town where you can end your meal with a dip in the water from the little beach right below.

The Old Town is packed with traditional restaurants where you can get a great fish meal or grilled skewers (called espetada here) such as at Restaurante Escadinha.

In the city center, established institutions like Restaurante Londres serve authentic Madeiran cuisine to the local crowd and are mostly devoid of tourists. Always full and warm, it feels like a cross between a diner and a canteen, with large portions (order half!) and the kind of peculiar atmosphere with sports on tv in the background that needs to be experienced.

Also, how nice is this serving set for two? Feels much grandeur than a diner now!

Stepping up from traditional to modern, a few restaurants lining the lovely streets near the cathedral are worth planning a few meals around for an updated take on local cuisine. Restaurante Informal is one such gem with a fresh take on Portuguese cuisine with a few international twists.

For a truly memorable meal though, nothing beats Akua near the marina for a literal dive into splendid seafood. I’ve been for dinner and lunch and both were terrific, but there’s something about the midday light and the quieter room that makes lunch here that much more enjoyable…and the beautiful dishes that much more appealing! You’ll want the entire menu and trust me, nothing will disappoint. Do try the tuna tartar which comes in handy little fried cones…

…and save room for their special seafood rice for two which comes with the most delicious Carabinieri (scarlet prawns) you’ve ever tasted!

Grouper carpaccio was also a revelation, and even the desserts will surprise you – white chocolate, black olives, and passion fruit? Yep, it works.

Mid-Afternoon

Like in Portugal, dinner time here tends to be quite late compared to our US standards (8pm-10pm). You should take full advantage of this by sampling the city’s many sweet treats – you’re welcome! Of course, you’ll find plenty of the addictive pasteis de nata in Madeira too, from the humble bakery to the dedicated Nata 7 locations.

Have fun sampling a bunch of other local pastries. Lots of eggs, flan, brioche dough and tropical fruits…they all lean on the yellow side funny enough and taste like sweet sunshine, all soft and creamy.

SlicE pastry shop has elaborate confections and great coffee in a pleasantly quiet pedestrian street.

If you have the sweet tooth but not the appetite, stop by the excellent chocolate shop UauCacau where you can enjoy an espresso with a handmade chocolate for €1.50.

Make sure to bring a box of chocolates back home which have local Madeiran flavors like banana, passion fruit, Madeira wine, sugar cane honey, etc.

For a savory pre-dinner snack instead, the island’s bolo do caco bread with garlic butter paired with cheese and charcuterie at one of the city’s wine bars is just the ticket. While you might be able to find a few table wine made in Madeira, most restaurants will have a great selection of Portuguese wines and they’re all excellent, from zippy vinho verde to vigorous reds from the Douro.

Dinner

Bring your appetite for the last meal of the day which is typically comforting, heavy on the protein, and made to be enjoyed slowly with a few glasses of wine. Don’t let the chill of the ocean air keep you from dining al fresco and join the locals on the sidewalks of family-run favorites.

One such favorites – a hidden gem – A Nova Celha will warm you with a homely meal and very generous wine pour. Try the Picado regional, a traditional dish of Madeira of cubed beef cooked with spices and served with French fries, easy to love!

Taberna Madeira in the Old Town lacks the outdoor tables but has a cozy interior and a local menu perfect for sharing with equal amount of seafood and meats.

Make sure you try at least once Madeira’s specialty which shouldn’t be hard as it is literally on every menu: the espada (not to be confused with espetada – the meat skewers!). It looks innocent enough on a plate but get a peak at this eel-like beast with razor sharp teeth and you’ll want to hit pause. Despite its nasty appearance, it is delicious. The creamy white flesh is usually served fried with a very local accompaniment of banana (!) and sometimes a passion fruit sauce, and they all go incredibly well together!

Slightly more upscale, 5 Sentidos on the west side is a gastronomic bistro with a wonderful wine list and beautifully presented food. Salmon tartare and octopus were both as scrumptious as they looked and the service was superb.

For old word charm in a historic setting, climb the steps to Taberna do Capitão and its rustic ambience. It’s traditional cooking from Madeira done really well in a room unlike any other in the city,

Haute Mediterranean can be had at Tipografia for a little break from the traditional restaurants. Incredibly delicious, not pretentious at all, and big portions for such refined cuisine – I was delighted.

The dinner crown though has to go to Kampo by chef Julio Pereira, the same chef behind my favorite lunch at Akua. He certainly knows what he’s doing and you should eat whatever he makes, period. While Akua made me dream of seafood for weeks after I got back, Kampo is focused on the land with a few seafood options and will have you drool over everything from the fresh bread and butter to the superb meats. And they’ve nailed the ambiance here too…

You walk by dry ageing beef to whet your appetite before climbing the stairs to the intimate dining room, curved around the open kitchen. I started with the oxtail ravioli with truffle and foie gras mousse followed by duck rice with confit duck leg… no words. Yes, it was a rich meal, but that’s what a bottle of earthy Portuguese red wine is for.

No room left, but could you really resist a dessert in this restaurant? Mango ice cream, salted caramel and dark chocolate, what a pairing!

Nightcap

For an island that has a wine denomination named after it, I found it surprising at first to see there was a strong cocktail culture here. But once I learned about the history, the sugarcane plantations (some still operating today) and of course seeing all the tropical fruits, it all made sense.

The island’s most famous concoction, poncha, is best enjoyed at the tiny Rey da Poncha which is always packed from day to night. Poncha is essentially the local aguardente (sugarcane spirit or as locals call it, Madeira rum) to which you add various fruit juices and honey.

The traditional is made with a mix of lemon and orange but passion fruit is another favorite and the menu is long. If you can’t decide, order the “large flight” which will have you try all the flavors. Just be warned – they might look tiny but they pack quite a punch!