Americas Travels US

New Orleans

March 1, 2013

New Orleans has certainly gone through a lot these past years after the devastating Hurricane Katrina but for travelers it still boasts its irresistible Southern hospitality, filled with a love of culture, good food, and live music. I took a recent long weekend to ‘go down south’ and see for myself the party town affectionately called N’Awlins.

The heart of it all is Jackson Square, New Orleans’s most famous public space made lively by the multitude of artists, street performers and musicians circling it every day.

Overlooking the Mississippi river and beautifully laid out with historic buildings on three sides, the park is the anchor of the city and the ideal location to start exploring the French Quarter.

Before you start walking around though, you shouldn’t miss fueling up at New Orleans’ landmark Cafe du Monde – an iconic coffee shop open 24/7 and serving amazing beignets and cafe au lait right across from Jackson Square.

The addictive square donuts arrive piping hot and hidden under a pile of powdered sugar just the way they have been for over 150 years – definitely the number one item you should eat if you ever go to New Orleans!

Walking off those delicious sweets couldn’t be more pleasant than wandering around the old French Quarter (le Vieux Carré) and letting the atmospheric neighborhood soak in. There’s something to see at every corner whether it’d be some colorful architecture…

…some old relics from the past…

…magical shops and festive attire…

…and of course the real reason many comes to this party city: Bourbon street and its heap of boozy bars!

It was impossible not to notice the remnants of the festivities surrounding Mardi Gras which took place just a few days before we arrived: flags everywhere but mostly beads, tons of colorful beads hanging from just about everything…

When you feel like you’ve seen the French Quarter from top to bottom, there are still some adjoining neighborhoods worth venturing into. We started going East to the increasingly popular Marigny neighborhood, best known for its multitude of live music venues on Frenchmen Street (we went back late at night for some epic Jazz scene…).

It’s peaceful during the day and has the bohemian air of what the French Quarter probably looked like many years ago before mass commercialization. Cute Creole cottages and beautifully aging buildings line the residential streets amidst a few coffee shops, restaurants, and B&B.

If you keep on walking East, you’ll eventually hit the railroad tracks which mark the beginning of another neighborhood: Bywater. Even more residential and definitely edgier, Bywater has seen artists and musicians moving out of pricier neighborhoods to established themselves in this quirky enclave, lending it an undeniably hip and cool vibe. For New Yorkers, you immediately think of Williamsburg (probably more East Williamsburg now!) as you walk through the quiet streets, noticing edgy art objects scattered randomly throughout, passing a few punks and musicians on the way to a dive bar/gallery, and thinking you’ve just discovered the most laid-back and funky urban renewal you’ve seen.

Such a cool neighborhood is obviously going to attract equally interesting eateries and it is the case with Maurepas Foods. When you’re in need of a good cocktail and a few tasty snacks (as we were), you could hardly find something better in the area than this 1-year old creative tapas bar. Maurepas serves Southern bites with a local provenance and imaginative bend as well as extremely well crafted cocktails, a farm-to-table place at low prices that seems right where it should be.

We enjoyed delicious cocktails and a light lunch of roasted beets with blood orange marmalade, side of market greens, and goat tacos before heading back to the French Quarter, happy to have seen this upcoming corner of New Orleans in all its delicious whimsicality.

It’s a bit of a long walk back to the center so some more eating was needed on arrival! The Green Goddess, tucked in an alleyway called Exchange Alley in the middle of the French Quarter, serves up comforting eclectic fare and a lot of vegetarian dishes, though we opted instead for their famous bacon sundae…!

Back at the W Hotel which sits around a lovely courtyard in the middle of the French Quarter for a quick later pm rest before a packed evening…

Music is such a big part of a night out in New Orleans that you’ll probably have a hard time deciding where to start, though one pretty good bet is the old school Preservation Hall. The dusty old building offers one of the most intimate setting for a night of true old-time jazz and is where you’ll hear the sweetest, most traditional New Orleans tunes. People line up at least an hour before each night’s performances so you can easily spot the venue by the crowd gathering in front.

The tiny space feels like you just entered someone’s home and seating is scarce so most will be standing. Despite the cramped confines and lack of comfort (no drinks, AC, etc.) you’ll immensely enjoy the 45 minutes of classic and joyful sounds which will convince you that you just took part in history…

In contrast to the traditional concert, dinner took on a  more modern take at Root in the Warehouse District.

House-made charcuterie is a staple here and their charcuterie plate will leave you swooning. Ours included a generous portion of chorizo, pork and duck rillettes, mojama (cured and dried tuna), and their specialty called ‘CBD’ (chicken, beef, and duck-poached ballotine). The gigantic platter also arrived heaping with pickles and condiments to accompany our selections, from kimchi-style vegetables to pickled blood oranges, satsuma and butternut squash. This would have been enough for our meal though we had also ordered the Petite Greens Salad (herbed ricotta, candied smoked pecans, citrus) and Louisiana pickled shrimps with shrimp-stuffed deviled eggs and truffled egg yolk mousse…let’s just say we rolled out of there and when straight to the hotel!

Next morning started with a quick cab ride to Surrey’s in the Lower Garden District. Expect a wait at this popular breakfast spot though it’ll be worth it for cheap grubs in a funky setting with local art adorning the walls. They make delicious freshly squeezed juices, homemade bagels and tasty Southern staples such as biscuits and gravy.

Then it was off to a pretty stroll along always buzzing Magazine Street which stretches for 6 miles between the Garden District and Uptown. It’s the main shopping thoroughfare outside the French Quarter and features gorgeous mansions amongst the countless antique stores, cafes, art galleries, and boutiques.

Lunch was at Mahony’s, also on Magazine street, where we had to wait 45 minutes for our massive Po’Boys to arrive. It is New Orleans’ signature sandwich so we had to have it, though the enormity of my fried oyster po’boy soon got the best of me… Decent sandwich, plump, cornmeal-crusted fried oysters with a remoulade slaw on a French baguette, it was good but really knocked us out for the rest of the afternoon!

We walked a few blocks north to catch a glimpse of the St. Charles Avenue Streetcar, the oldest continuously operating streetcar in the world, which you can board at any of the numerous stops for a pleasant ride admiring the historical mansions lining the route.

As the sun sets, the city takes on a festive atmosphere and it was especially true as we ran into this traditional wedding procession at the corner of Canal Street. The brass band led the bride and groom through the streets to the sound of jazzy tunes, followed by all their guests dancing and waving white handkerchiefs in the air – a memorable sight!

Tonight again we started the evening with a slice of history by checking into the Sazerac Bar at the Roosevelt hotel. As the name implies, the drink to get here is a Sazerac which is supposedly the ‘oldest known American cocktail’ and was created here in New Orleans. You could hardly find a classier place in the city to savor this historical drink and while you’re at it, I suggest you get the other local specialty, the frothy Ramos Gin Fizz.

Dinner at the highly praised Herbsaint was a definite highlight of the weekend. The ‘lightened’ New French and New American cuisine was a welcomed change from the heavier Southern fare we had indulged in since we arrived. The casually elegant bistro is all about sharing wonderful small plates while enjoying impeccable service and a nice view of St. Charles Avenue through the restaurant’s huge windows.

The quality of the food was excellent and although we skipped the popular dishes of duck confit and pork belly which are supposedly standouts here we had an amazing meal:

Baked Asiago with Oregano and Lemon

Beef Short Rib with Potato Rösti and Salsa Verde

Saffron Fideo

Butter Poached Gulf Tuna with Pickled Chilies and Mint

Banana Brown Butter Tart with Fleur de Sel Caramel

The night ended on Frenchmen Street where locals congregates to hear some pretty awesome live music and dance the night away. It’s a compact two blocks that is filled with bars with live bands and all you have to do is follow the music… We pushed our way into The Spotted Cat just in time for the next set of the terrific band that was playing that night, getting crammed into a ridiculously small space. You’ll forget all about your close neighbors as soon as the music fills the room…this is Jazz that is hard to not stomp your feet to and shake it ’til somebody kicks you out. The true New Orleans is definitely somewhere around Frenchmen street…

Last breakfast was a homey affair in the adorable Eat restaurant set in a quieter corner of the French Quarter. The locals favorite serves up Cajun style dishes in a charming and sunny converted house.

Eggs special of the day served over black eyed pea cakes and andouile sausages with a creole sauce

The Fried Green Tomatoes Breakfast comes with three fried green tomatoes, eggs of your choice, grits, bacon, and a giant homemade biscuits…needless to say I barely got through half of it!

A long walk is recommended after every meal here (!) so we headed to nearby Louis Amstrong Park, perfect for wandering around its lagoons, jazzy sculptures and grassy open spaces all in hommage to New Orleans’s favorite son.

Practically next door lay the Saint Louis Cemetery Number One, a beautiful and quite unique aboveground cemetery which is also the oldest of its kind in the city.

One of the city’s most intriguing places to visit, it somehow oozes charm as you start noticing the antique details, growing life amidst the rubbles, and stunning beauty of the flowers against the aging stones.

Just like New Orleans, it manages to seduce subtly while still showing its rough exterior… a great ending to a weekend of contrasts and old school charm.

 

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Main course Recipes

Veal Cacciatore

February 18, 2013

‘Cacciatore’ was one of those cooking terms I’d seen often enough and yet didn’t have a clear definition for, until I decided to get into the kitchen, my true classroom, and created the dish myself to see what it was all about. The Italian translation of cacciatore is ‘hunter’ and imply a meal prepared ‘hunter-style’ which means a slow cooked meat with tomatoes, onions, and herbs and sometimes other additions like peppers and wine. It’s usually made with chicken but as I’m trying to vary my meat consumption I opted for a Veal Cacciatore instead (out of boredom yes and the fact that there’s something truly exciting about buying a huge piece of veal shoulder roast, all tied up and pretty looking… we just don’t do that enough!).

This time of year I yearn for simple and rustic food which is exactly what this meal delivers. Slowly braising the meat makes it as you would expect very tender and the hearty tomato sauce is enriched with wild mushrooms, pancetta, and olives for a kick of flavor you wouldn’t expect in this popular Italian-American dish. The large quantity is ideal for a dinner party or a week of leftovers, as it is even better the next day if at all possible! Now all you need is a good bottle of wine and a roaring fire…

Veal Cacciatore

Recipe from Gourmet Magazine
Active time: 1 hr
Total time: 4 hr
Makes 8 servings
 
2/3 cup dry white wine
1/3 cup broken dried porcini (1/4 ounce) or other wild mushrooms
1 (5-to 6-pound) boneless veal shoulder roast
1/4 cup olive oil, divided
1/4 pound sliced pancetta, chopped
2 medium onions, chopped
2 medium carrots, chopped
2 celery ribs, chopped
3 garlic cloves, finely chopped
1 (28-ounce) can whole tomatoes in juice
1 1/2 (6-inch) rosemary sprigs
2 Turkish bay leaves or 1 California
1/3 cup small brine-cured black olives such as Niçoise
 
Accompaniment: polenta or pasta
 

Preheat oven to 325°F with rack in middle.

Bring wine to a simmer in a small saucepan. Stir in porcini (or any dried wild mushrooms you’re using) and remove from heat. Pat veal dry and season with 3/4 teaspoon salt and 1/2 teaspoon pepper.

Heat 2 tablespoons oil in a wide 6-to 8-quart heavy pot over medium-high heat until it shimmers, then brown veal, turning, about 12 minutes.

Transfer veal to a plate. Discard fat from pot and add remaining 2 tablespoons oil. Add pancetta and sauté over medium-high heat until it begins to brown. Add onions and sauté until softened, about 8 minutes.

Drain porcini in a fine-mesh sieve set over a bowl, pressing on mushrooms and reserving wine. Coarsely chop porcini and add to pancetta mixture with carrots, celery, and garlic. Sauté until softened, about 8 minutes. Stir in wine and cook until most has evaporated, about 2 minutes. Coarsely chop tomatoes and add to pot with their juice. Simmer, stirring occasionally, until thickened, about 15 minutes.

Add veal with meat juices from plate, rosemary, bay leaves, and olives. Cover pot and braise veal in oven, turning roast occasionally, until center of meat is fork-tender, 2 3/4 to 3 hours.

Transfer veal to a cutting board and let stand, loosely covered. Simmer sauce over medium heat, stirring occasionally, until thickened, about 10 minutes. Season with salt and a pinch of sugar if desired. Cut off strings from roast and discard bay leaves and rosemary. Thickly slice veal and return to pot, basting with sauce.

Serve over polenta or any other  starch you like!

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New York Restaurants

Duck Lunch at Momofuku Ssam Bar

February 12, 2013

Lunch on a workday is often a hurried affair involving a local deli or neighboring sushi shop though if you want to stretch your hour a bit and be greatly rewarded, look no further than Momofuku Ssam Bar’s fantastic duck lunch. Only offered on weekdays, it’s the best reason you’ll find to get out of midtown and discover this unbelievably good protein in all its delights.

Count on David Chang’s Momofuku Empire of restaurants to bring such a splendid idea ‘to the table’ and to do it so tastefully you’ll wonder how you’ve ever gone without it. The menu is an odd to the versatility of duck and offers many tempting treats such as fried duck dumplings, duck pot pie, smoked duck liver mousse, etc. though for your first visit there really is only one way to go – the house specialty of rotisserie duck over rice.

Before digging into the main dish, we started off with the highly recommended pulled duck buns. Momofuku being well known for its pork belly buns we thought it was the way to go and it certainly didn’t disappoint! The steamed bun was airy and super soft, perfect cushion for the luscious pulled duck meat confit and tzaziki sauce liberally falling off as we took each bite. A slight hint of mint and harissa rounded out the clean though indulgent taste – this would make a perfectly acceptable lunch with a side dish.

Next we jumped straight into the duck over rice lunch set which includes the rotisserie duck, rice, a chive pancake (a must), lettuce, sauces, and a side dish of your choice (we picked broccoli to have something ‘healthy’ though if you’re going all out the fingerling potatoes would make a very filling accompaniment). The broccoli, though not the healthiest, was addictively covered with a creamy smoked bluefish vinaigrette and crispy duck skin as topping.

The duck arrives in all its pinky juicy glory, cooked to perfection with a slightly crispy skin and on the side a bit of the shredded duck confit we had earlier in our steamed buns. At $20 this is a lunch bowl on the higher side of the scale but a single bite will be a succulent reminder that you should be treating yourself more often…

A trio of chili sauce, hoisin sauce, and fried shallots is set on the table as well as a bowl of Bibb lettuce, ready for your foodie masterpiece.

Whether you decide to tear up the savory chive pancake, use a lettuce as the main vehicle or do like I did and combine the two (!), just dab a little bit of your favorite sauce, sprinkle liberally with the fried shallots, roll it all up and be ready to be mesmerized.

Momofuku Ssam Bar
207 Second Ave at 13th St
New York, NY
Duck lunch served Mon – Fri, 11:30 am – 3:30 pm
T: (212) 254-3500
map
 
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Dessert Recipes

Belgian Chocolate Ice Cream Sundae Waffles

February 8, 2013

I love waffles for breakfast but it can be quite an undertaking to whip up a fresh batch one morning, especially if they’re just for you! Using them as a base for desserts is a wonderful way to enjoy them later in the day and get out my waffle iron which is probably the most underused of all my kitchen appliances.

Sundae-style waffles are a kid’s favorite and an adult’s playful dessert. As soon as the chocolaty waffle is ready, it’s up to you to top it with your favorite ice cream and any other toppings you wish such as strawberries, whipped cream, syrup, chopped nuts, etc. I stayed classic here and used a fancy vanilla ice cream (spiked with Bourbon!) and an easy homemade chocolate sauce…perfect! The thick Belgian waffle is the ideal cushion for whatever you’ll opt to pile on top of it, the deep indentations holding everything that might melt or fall. My only advice is to hurry and serve them while the waffles are still warm… the mix of hot and cold is half the treat here!

Belgian Chocolate Ice Cream Sundae Waffles

Recipe from Pancakes & Waffles
Active and total time: 1 hr
Makes 6 to 8 waffles
 
Waffles:
2 cups all-purpose flour
2/3 cup unsweetened cocoa powder
2/3 cup packed light brown sugar
2 teaspoons baking powder
½ teaspoon baking soda
Dash of salt
4 large eggs, seperated
2 cups milk
6 tablespoons (¾ stick) unsalted butter, melted
2 teaspoons vanilla extract
1 quart vanilla bean. coffee, or your favorite flavor of ice cream
 
Rich Chocolate Sauce:
6 oz bittersweet or semisweet chocolate, cut in chunks, or 1 cup chocolate chips
½ cup light cream or coffee
¼ light corn syrup
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
 

Preheat a waffle iron. In a large bowl, whisk together the flour, cocoa, sugar, baking powder, baking soda, and salt. In another bowl, beat the egg whites with an electric mixer until stiff, glossy peaks form.

In another bowl, beat or whisk together the egg yolks, milk, butter, and vanilla. Add the milk mixture to the dry ingredients and mix just until combines. Fold in the egg whites. Your batter is now ready.

Before baking your waffles, prepare the Rich Chocolate Sauce as follow: In the top of a double boiler over simmering water, combine the chocolate, cream, and corn syrup, stirring until smooth. Stir in the vanilla and transfer to a serving bowl (sauce can keep refrigerated up to a week – simply reheat in the microwave for 30 seconds or over simmering water).

Now you’re ready to bake your waffles. Spoon or pour about 1 cup batter onto the hot iron. Close the lid. Bake until the waffle is crisp, about 4 minutes. Remove with a fork to a warm plate. Serve at once or keep warm on a baking sheet in a 200ºF oven. Repeat with the remaining batter.

Top each warm waffle with a scoop of ice cream and a spoonful of Rich Chocolate Sauce.

 
 

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Europe Portugal Travels

Seafood and Graffiti in Lisbon

February 3, 2013

London in January is unsurprisingly grey and cold and more so this year with bitter cold temperatures and a sudden ‘snowstorm’ taking over Old Blighty. A getaway to Lisbon seemed like a good cure and I happily convinced a friend of mine to fly from Stockholm (equally freezing!) and meet me in the ‘City of the Seven Hills’ one Friday morning for a few days of seafood and wine.

I firmly believe that a 5am departure for the airport is easily bearable as long as an epic lunch awaits you at your destination, and I made sure it did! After checking in at the hotel we headed straight to Cervejaria Ramiro (Avenida Almirante Reis 1), a locals favorite ‘beerhouse’. Always crowded, the noisy place is a heaven for fresh seafood at reasonable prices which they love to eat with a beer or a cold bottle of Vinho Verde.

Wanting to try something new, I handpicked from the menu some strange-looking sea creatures called Percebes (or gooseneck barnacles). These tube-like crustaceans live attached to rocks and boats and are an expensive delicacy widely consumed in Portugal and Spain. They require a bit of know-how to eat (our waiter had to show us to twist and break the leathery barnacle before slurping the grayish flesh) and are quite messy (watch out for the unavoidable squirt!) but it’s one taste I won’t forget anytime soon. Despite their ugly exterior I have to say they’re some of the most delicious seafood items I have ever eaten – sweet and slightly briny flesh, texture close to an octopus, with a fresh and intense taste of the sea…

Next came the Amêijoas à Bulhão Pato (clams with white wine) which is one of the most popular first course found all over Portugal and shouldn’t be missed. Use plenty of the delicious Pao con mantega (bread with butter) to soak up the amazing garlicky sauce.

Lastly, a big lavagante (lobster) – which our waiter showed us still alive to make sure we were happy with the selection – arrived at our table, cut and broken into giant morsels of exquisite flesh, the perfect complement to an amazing sea-centric lunch. They brought over mayonnaise so you can even whip yourself a small lobster roll with the hot buttered bread (which I did…divine!).

The restaurant is downtown though not in the nicest of neighborhoods so we ventured further south for a few minutes before hitting the real heart of the city: Baixa. The business and shopping district of Lisbon, Baixa stands relatively flat between two hills and is where you’ll find a plethora of 18th-century neoclassical buildings (all built after the devastating earthquake of 1755) and the city’s main squares, Rossio and Praça do Comércio.

In search of an older side of Lisbon and in need of some exercise, we looked up towards the hills to the West and headed for the top. From Praça dos Restauradores, you can take the Elevador da Glória, a funicular (the city has only three) that links Baixa with Bairro Alto if you don’t feel like climbing up the steep hill. We decided to walk up after spotting some cool graffiti Lisbon is famous for dotting the way.

However you choose to go up, the real draw is the superb viewpoint that awaits you atop the hill, the Miradouro de São Pedro de Alcântara. The belvedere offers panoramic views of Lisbon with St. George’s castle in the distance and a perfect place for a short break.

Now you find yourself in Bairro Alto, the bohemian neighborhood sitting up high and filled with cute shops and bars. This section of town survived the earthquake in 1755 so you can catch a glimpse of pre-18th century Lisbon architecture and gorgeous churches and wander around the colorful cobbled lanes. Quiet during the day, it turns later on into the city’s vibrant nightlife quarter with people spilling onto the streets.

Walking down the hill you find the elegant district of Chiado, the cultural and shopping hub of the city with its theaters, old school cafes and glamorous designer boutiques. Stop by Café A Brasileira (Rua Garrett 120), one of the oldest and most famous cafés of Lisbon (poet Fernando Pessoa was a regular) to admire the art deco style and step back in time for a while. Yes it’s jam-packed with tourists but the spirit of the place, still frequented by writers,  is worth the hassle.

Up a bit from Rua Garrett (via Carmo Square) is yet another fantastic viewpoint over the city offered by the Santa Justa Elevator. The only remaining vertical lift in the city, it connects Carmo Square with the lower streets of Baixa and the panoramic views from its terrace and walkway are some of the best in the city.

Back down in the middle of all the shops, a bright storefront will definitely lure you in. Rua do Carmo is home to Lisbon’s most famous ice cream shop, Santini, which was highly recommended by the locals. Stop by the cute, retro-looking red and white shop for an amazing gelato like they’ve been doing for over 60 years…

Although modern designer shops abound, the neighborhood still has a few old-fashioned testimonials to the city’s past and none more adorable than A Vida Portuguesa (Rua Anchieta 11). Set in an old warehouse, the shop sells all kinds of vintage and hard to find Portuguese household items, handicrafts, cosmetics, etc. in the most beautiful general store setting I’ve ever seen.

Just a few steps away from the crowd, down a quieter street past the Teatro Nacional de São Carlos, you’ll find Cantinho do Avillez (Rua Duques de Bragança 7), my top Lisbon restaurant from this trip. Think relaxed atmosphere with simple but sophisticated cuisine and you have a winner in my book. It helps that Cantinho is the latest project from a famous Michelin Star chef, José Avillez, and his talent really shines in the creative Portuguese comfort food we indulged in – highly recommend it!

Broth cod with poached egg and bread soup, Alentejo style: my top discovery on this trip, such a flavorful soup where they drizzle crusty bread with olive oil and then drown it with a hot broth made with cod, salt, garlic and coriander…and with the poached egg it just became amazing…

Marinated scallops with avocado

Fried green beans and a nice bottle of rosé!

‘Bulhão Pato‘ style shrimp

Lisbon doesn’t come with a long-list of must-see museums which is refreshing as what you should be spending most of your time doing is wandering aimlessly in its streets and getting lost. I highly recommend though that you pay a visit to the National Tile Museum outside the city center; an homage to the beautiful decorative art that adorns the city’s buildings and makes Lisbon so distinctive. It truly is one of a kind.

Although the over 7,000 tiles exhibited are the main draw, I found just walking around the atmospheric building (the museum is housed in a 16th century convent) and visiting the adjoining church, cloisters and choir to be even more impressive.

When dinner time comes, choices are numerous around the Baixa-Chiado area but we opted to step out of the center a bit and went to the highly praised Alma restaurant in Santos, a trendy waterside quarter next to Bairro Alto. An all-white and elegant canvas for celebrity chef Henrique Sá Pessoa, Alma has quickly become one of Lisbon most popular restaurant offering modern cuisine at gentle prices. Go for the exquisite and eclectic cuisine, a wonderful way to have a taste of Lisbon’s burgeoning nouvelle cuisine movement.

Squid and prawns sauteed in chilli and garlic with cherry tomato compote, rocket and parmesan salad

Seared scallops with white bean puree, cauliflower, chicken liver jelly, balsamic reduction – definitely the highlight of the meal!

A Spanish stew with shrimps and scallops

Roast fillet of salted cod with chickpea puree and chickpea vinaigrette, oven roasted tomato

Another day in Lisbon starts the colorful way with more graffiti and this time they are epic. Derelict buildings are becoming canvas for international artists and one not to be missed can be found just outside the Picoas Metro Station. The massive mural was created by Os Gémeos and Blu.

Jumping in a cab, we made our way west to reach Belem, Lisbon’s historical area. It was from here that many of the great Portuguese explorers such as Magellan, Vasco de Gama, etc. embarked on their voyages and many important and fascinating monuments are worth a visit. But before that, breakfast is calling and in the area you simply can’t avoid the famous Pastel de Nata at Pastéis de Belém (Rua Belém 84), the king of all Portuguese pastries.

It is believed that the egg tart pastries (which I’ve first encountered in Hong Kong) have been created next door by monks from the Jerónimos Monastery (see below) so you really can’t get more authentic than this. People line up to take theirs to go but we ventured inside, curious about the feel of the institution that’s been serving the delectable custard tarts since 1837. As expected, beautiful tiles mosaic line the walls and locals chat over coffee and pastries as if no time had passed at all.

We got out in time to witness the monthly Changing of the Guard which occurs every third Sunday of the month in front of the Belém Palace.

The Jerónimos Monastery is visually stunning, a fascinating example of a peculiarly ornate Gothic style of Portuguese architecture known as Manueline.

The nearby Tower of Belém was built to commemorate Vasco da Gama’s expedition and is a much photographed symbol of Portugal’s maritime glory.

Heading back towards the city centre, our last remaining hours were devoted to visiting Lisbon’s oldest and much beloved Alfama neighborhood.  The Casa dos Bicos (or House of Spikes) at the bottom of the hill, from early 16th century, is famous for its curious facade and hosts a few exhibitions inside.

Just down the street is the one foodie address I’m glad I discovered: Conserveira de Lisboa (Rua Bacalhoeiros 34). There really isn’t any obvious gifts or souvenirs one must absolutely bring back from Portugal apart from Port and other wines, but I think I found one at this adorable shop. An old cannery store that’s been in business for over 80 years, la Conserveira sells the cutest tins of preserved-fish I have ever seen, I literally wanted them all! Hundreds of colorful and vintage looking tins are lining up the walls and all you have to do is point and buy…which is how I ended up with cod in olive oil, smoked octopus, sardines in escabeche, mussels, mackerel, etc. I’m already salivating at the idea of savoring them back home with a good bottle of Vinho Verde!

The best way to see the Alfama is to get to the top with the Tram 28. Take it from the start at Martim Moniz near Rossio and enjoy the ride as it winds its way up the hills of the old Moorish neighborhood.

It unfortunately started raining quite a bit but we still got off the tram near the Castle and wandered in the picturesque old twisting alleys for a while before hiding in a cute wine bar waiting for the rain to stop (it didn’t…).

Even in the downpour and foggy hills though, Lisbon is breathtakingly beautiful and is sure to see us returning again.

 

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