Blog - Flying Fourchette

Chocolate Fettuccine with Mascarpone and Lemon

March 5, 2013

Chocolate pasta… really? This is the kind of dish that raises some eyebrows which makes it even more fun to try as you’d really be stepping into unknown territory here. It’s kinda hard to picture what it would taste like or how it would be served outside of a Willy Wonka dreamland which made it even more tempting for the sake of my culinary curiosity.

I had seen ‘dessert chocolate pasta’ before served with sweet toppings though what I was mostly interested in was the savory adaptation which isn’t that crazy after all… Chocolate has been sparingly used in savory dishes for a long time, think of mole sauce in Mexican cuisine and Europe has paired it with rabbit in a stew. Here it takes on an even subtler approach by simply flavoring delicately fresh pasta for an unusual dish.

There is no sugar added (the main difference with the chocolate pasta used for desserts) and the amount of cocoa in the dough is pretty small so you don’t get the sweet taste you would expect. Instead you get beautiful brown dough that feels like suede and has a delicate aroma of cocoa which only intensify as you cook the pasta. The sauce is a simple mix of butter and mascarpone, the latter proving it works as magically in this savory context than it usually does in any kind of chocolaty dessert – they’re just such a good match. Lemon zest lightens up this decadent dish though you’ll want to serve smaller portions than usual…it’s still pretty rich! This meal is ideal for either impressing your guests and throwing a dinner party on its head, or when you just feel like trying something novel and stepping out of your cooking comfort zone which it inevitably will. Let’s face it, as rich and good as this is, chocolate pasta is still kind of weird…

Chocolate Fettuccine with Mascarpone and Lemon

Recipe from The Cheesemonger’s Kitchen
Active time: 45 minutes
Total time: 1h15 minutes
Makes 6 servings

For the pasta
3½ cups (440g) all purpose flour, plus more if needed
3 tablespoons cocoa powder
4 eggs

For the sauce
4 tablespoons (55g) unsalted butter
1 lb (455g) mascarpone cheese
2 lemons, for zesting
Freshly cracked black pepper

For assembling the dish
¾ cup (75g) grated Parmigiano-Reggiano

In a large bowl, whisk together the flour and cocoa. Make a well in the center. Break the eggs into the center and beat with a fork, gradually incorporating a bit of the flour from the sides of the well until a sticky dough is formed.

Turn the dough out onto a lightly floured work surface and knead, adding a bit of flour if needed, until the dough is smooth and elastic, 3 to 5 minutes. Cover the dough in plastic wrap/cling film and let sit at room temperature for at least 30 minutes.

Working with half of the dough at a time, use a pasta maker to roll out long sheets 1/16 in (2mm) thick onto a lightly floured surface. Cut into sheets about 10 in (25cm) long. Cut the sheets into fettuccine with the appropriate attachment. Continue with the remaining dough.

In a large pot, bring plenty of salted water to a boil. Gently heat the butter in a large frying pan until just sizzling but not turning brown. Remove from the heat and add the mascarpone all at once. Do not stir. Pour the butter and mascarpone into a large, preheated serving bowl. Zest the lemon into the bowl along with a few grindings of pepper.

Cook the pasta in the boiling water until al dente, anywhere from 45 to 60 seconds. You may have to do this quickly in two batches, depending on the size of your pot of boiling water. Drain and add the pasta to the serving bowl along with half of the Parmigiano.

Stir quickly to combine and melt the mascarpone into a velvety sauce. Serve immediately in the bowl at the table topped with the remaining Parmigiano.

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Americas Travels US

New Orleans

March 1, 2013

New Orleans has certainly gone through a lot these past years after the devastating Hurricane Katrina but for travelers it still boasts its irresistible Southern hospitality, filled with a love of culture, good food, and live music. I took a recent long weekend to ‘go down south’ and see for myself the party town affectionately called N’Awlins.

The heart of it all is Jackson Square, New Orleans’s most famous public space made lively by the multitude of artists, street performers and musicians circling it every day.

Overlooking the Mississippi river and beautifully laid out with historic buildings on three sides, the park is the anchor of the city and the ideal location to start exploring the French Quarter.

Before you start walking around though, you shouldn’t miss fueling up at New Orleans’ landmark Cafe du Monde – an iconic coffee shop open 24/7 and serving amazing beignets and cafe au lait right across from Jackson Square.

The addictive square donuts arrive piping hot and hidden under a pile of powdered sugar just the way they have been for over 150 years – definitely the number one item you should eat if you ever go to New Orleans!

Walking off those delicious sweets couldn’t be more pleasant than wandering around the old French Quarter (le Vieux Carré) and letting the atmospheric neighborhood soak in. There’s something to see at every corner whether it’d be some colorful architecture…

…some old relics from the past…

…magical shops and festive attire…

…and of course the real reason many comes to this party city: Bourbon street and its heap of boozy bars!

It was impossible not to notice the remnants of the festivities surrounding Mardi Gras which took place just a few days before we arrived: flags everywhere but mostly beads, tons of colorful beads hanging from just about everything…

When you feel like you’ve seen the French Quarter from top to bottom, there are still some adjoining neighborhoods worth venturing into. We started going East to the increasingly popular Marigny neighborhood, best known for its multitude of live music venues on Frenchmen Street (we went back late at night for some epic Jazz scene…).

It’s peaceful during the day and has the bohemian air of what the French Quarter probably looked like many years ago before mass commercialization. Cute Creole cottages and beautifully aging buildings line the residential streets amidst a few coffee shops, restaurants, and B&B.

If you keep on walking East, you’ll eventually hit the railroad tracks which mark the beginning of another neighborhood: Bywater. Even more residential and definitely edgier, Bywater has seen artists and musicians moving out of pricier neighborhoods to established themselves in this quirky enclave, lending it an undeniably hip and cool vibe. For New Yorkers, you immediately think of Williamsburg (probably more East Williamsburg now!) as you walk through the quiet streets, noticing edgy art objects scattered randomly throughout, passing a few punks and musicians on the way to a dive bar/gallery, and thinking you’ve just discovered the most laid-back and funky urban renewal you’ve seen.

Such a cool neighborhood is obviously going to attract equally interesting eateries and it is the case with Maurepas Foods. When you’re in need of a good cocktail and a few tasty snacks (as we were), you could hardly find something better in the area than this 1-year old creative tapas bar. Maurepas serves Southern bites with a local provenance and imaginative bend as well as extremely well crafted cocktails, a farm-to-table place at low prices that seems right where it should be.

We enjoyed delicious cocktails and a light lunch of roasted beets with blood orange marmalade, side of market greens, and goat tacos before heading back to the French Quarter, happy to have seen this upcoming corner of New Orleans in all its delicious whimsicality.

It’s a bit of a long walk back to the center so some more eating was needed on arrival! The Green Goddess, tucked in an alleyway called Exchange Alley in the middle of the French Quarter, serves up comforting eclectic fare and a lot of vegetarian dishes, though we opted instead for their famous bacon sundae…!

Back at the W Hotel which sits around a lovely courtyard in the middle of the French Quarter for a quick later pm rest before a packed evening…

Music is such a big part of a night out in New Orleans that you’ll probably have a hard time deciding where to start, though one pretty good bet is the old school Preservation Hall. The dusty old building offers one of the most intimate setting for a night of true old-time jazz and is where you’ll hear the sweetest, most traditional New Orleans tunes. People line up at least an hour before each night’s performances so you can easily spot the venue by the crowd gathering in front.

The tiny space feels like you just entered someone’s home and seating is scarce so most will be standing. Despite the cramped confines and lack of comfort (no drinks, AC, etc.) you’ll immensely enjoy the 45 minutes of classic and joyful sounds which will convince you that you just took part in history…

In contrast to the traditional concert, dinner took on a more modern take at Root in the Warehouse District.

House-made charcuterie is a staple here and their charcuterie plate will leave you swooning. Ours included a generous portion of chorizo, pork and duck rillettes, mojama (cured and dried tuna), and their specialty called ‘CBD’ (chicken, beef, and duck-poached ballotine). The gigantic platter also arrived heaping with pickles and condiments to accompany our selections, from kimchi-style vegetables to pickled blood oranges, satsuma and butternut squash. This would have been enough for our meal though we had also ordered the Petite Greens Salad (herbed ricotta, candied smoked pecans, citrus) and Louisiana pickled shrimps with shrimp-stuffed deviled eggs and truffled egg yolk mousse…let’s just say we rolled out of there and when straight to the hotel!

Next morning started with a quick cab ride to Surrey’s in the Lower Garden District. Expect a wait at this popular breakfast spot though it’ll be worth it for cheap grubs in a funky setting with local art adorning the walls. They make delicious freshly squeezed juices, homemade bagels and tasty Southern staples such as biscuits and gravy.

Then it was off to a pretty stroll along always buzzing Magazine Street which stretches for 6 miles between the Garden District and Uptown. It’s the main shopping thoroughfare outside the French Quarter and features gorgeous mansions amongst the countless antique stores, cafes, art galleries, and boutiques.

Lunch was at Mahony’s, also on Magazine street, where we had to wait 45 minutes for our massive Po’Boys to arrive. It is New Orleans’ signature sandwich so we had to have it, though the enormity of my fried oyster po’boy soon got the best of me… Decent sandwich, plump, cornmeal-crusted fried oysters with a remoulade slaw on a French baguette, it was good but really knocked us out for the rest of the afternoon!

We walked a few blocks north to catch a glimpse of the St. Charles Avenue Streetcar, the oldest continuously operating streetcar in the world, which you can board at any of the numerous stops for a pleasant ride admiring the historical mansions lining the route.

As the sun sets, the city takes on a festive atmosphere and it was especially true as we ran into this traditional wedding procession at the corner of Canal Street. The brass band led the bride and groom through the streets to the sound of jazzy tunes, followed by all their guests dancing and waving white handkerchiefs in the air – a memorable sight!

Tonight again we started the evening with a slice of history by checking into the Sazerac Bar at the Roosevelt hotel. As the name implies, the drink to get here is a Sazerac which is supposedly the ‘oldest known American cocktail’ and was created here in New Orleans. You could hardly find a classier place in the city to savor this historical drink and while you’re at it, I suggest you get the other local specialty, the frothy Ramos Gin Fizz.

Dinner at the highly praised Herbsaint was a definite highlight of the weekend. The ‘lightened’ New French and New American cuisine was a welcomed change from the heavier Southern fare we had indulged in since we arrived. The casually elegant bistro is all about sharing wonderful small plates while enjoying impeccable service and a nice view of St. Charles Avenue through the restaurant’s huge windows.

The quality of the food was excellent and although we skipped the popular dishes of duck confit and pork belly which are supposedly standouts here we had an amazing meal:

Baked Asiago with Oregano and Lemon

Beef Short Rib with Potato Rösti and Salsa Verde

Saffron Fideo

Butter Poached Gulf Tuna with Pickled Chilies and Mint

Banana Brown Butter Tart with Fleur de Sel Caramel

The night ended on Frenchmen Street where locals congregates to hear some pretty awesome live music and dance the night away. It’s a compact two blocks that is filled with bars with live bands and all you have to do is follow the music… We pushed our way into The Spotted Cat just in time for the next set of the terrific band that was playing that night, getting crammed into a ridiculously small space. You’ll forget all about your close neighbors as soon as the music fills the room…this is Jazz that is hard to not stomp your feet to and shake it ’til somebody kicks you out. The true New Orleans is definitely somewhere around Frenchmen street…

Last breakfast was a homey affair in the adorable Eat restaurant set in a quieter corner of the French Quarter. The locals favorite serves up Cajun style dishes in a charming and sunny converted house.

Eggs special of the day served over black eyed pea cakes and andouile sausages with a creole sauce

The Fried Green Tomatoes Breakfast comes with three fried green tomatoes, eggs of your choice, grits, bacon, and a giant homemade biscuits…needless to say I barely got through half of it!

A long walk is recommended after every meal here (!) so we headed to nearby Louis Amstrong Park, perfect for wandering around its lagoons, jazzy sculptures and grassy open spaces all in hommage to New Orleans’s favorite son.

Practically next door lay the Saint Louis Cemetery Number One, a beautiful and quite unique aboveground cemetery which is also the oldest of its kind in the city.

One of the city’s most intriguing places to visit, it somehow oozes charm as you start noticing the antique details, growing life amidst the rubbles, and stunning beauty of the flowers against the aging stones.

Just like New Orleans, it manages to seduce subtly while still showing its rough exterior… a great ending to a weekend of contrasts and old school charm.

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Main course Recipes

Veal Cacciatore

February 18, 2013

‘Cacciatore’ was one of those cooking terms I’d seen often enough and yet didn’t have a clear definition for, until I decided to get into the kitchen, my true classroom, and created the dish myself to see what it was all about. The Italian translation of cacciatore is ‘hunter’ and imply a meal prepared ‘hunter-style’ which means a slow cooked meat with tomatoes, onions, and herbs and sometimes other additions like peppers and wine. It’s usually made with chicken but as I’m trying to vary my meat consumption I opted for a Veal Cacciatore instead (out of boredom yes and the fact that there’s something truly exciting about buying a huge piece of veal shoulder roast, all tied up and pretty looking… we just don’t do that enough!).

This time of year I yearn for simple and rustic food which is exactly what this meal delivers. Slowly braising the meat makes it as you would expect very tender and the hearty tomato sauce is enriched with wild mushrooms, pancetta, and olives for a kick of flavor you wouldn’t expect in this popular Italian-American dish. The large quantity is ideal for a dinner party or a week of leftovers, as it is even better the next day if at all possible! Now all you need is a good bottle of wine and a roaring fire…

Veal Cacciatore

Recipe from Gourmet Magazine

Active time: 1 hr

Total time: 4 hr

Makes 8 servings

2/3 cup dry white wine
1/3 cup broken dried porcini (1/4 ounce) or other wild mushrooms
1 (5-to 6-pound) boneless veal shoulder roast
1/4 cup olive oil, divided
1/4 pound sliced pancetta, chopped
2 medium onions, chopped
2 medium carrots, chopped
2 celery ribs, chopped
3 garlic cloves, finely chopped
1 (28-ounce) can whole tomatoes in juice
1 1/2 (6-inch) rosemary sprigs
2 Turkish bay leaves or 1 California
1/3 cup small brine-cured black olives such as Niçoise

Accompaniment: polenta or pasta

Preheat oven to 325°F with rack in middle.

Bring wine to a simmer in a small saucepan. Stir in porcini (or any dried wild mushrooms you’re using) and remove from heat. Pat veal dry and season with 3/4 teaspoon salt and 1/2 teaspoon pepper.

Heat 2 tablespoons oil in a wide 6-to 8-quart heavy pot over medium-high heat until it shimmers, then brown veal, turning, about 12 minutes.

Transfer veal to a plate. Discard fat from pot and add remaining 2 tablespoons oil. Add pancetta and sauté over medium-high heat until it begins to brown. Add onions and sauté until softened, about 8 minutes.

Drain porcini in a fine-mesh sieve set over a bowl, pressing on mushrooms and reserving wine. Coarsely chop porcini and add to pancetta mixture with carrots, celery, and garlic. Sauté until softened, about 8 minutes. Stir in wine and cook until most has evaporated, about 2 minutes. Coarsely chop tomatoes and add to pot with their juice. Simmer, stirring occasionally, until thickened, about 15 minutes.

Add veal with meat juices from plate, rosemary, bay leaves, and olives. Cover pot and braise veal in oven, turning roast occasionally, until center of meat is fork-tender, 2 3/4 to 3 hours.

Transfer veal to a cutting board and let stand, loosely covered. Simmer sauce over medium heat, stirring occasionally, until thickened, about 10 minutes. Season with salt and a pinch of sugar if desired. Cut off strings from roast and discard bay leaves and rosemary. Thickly slice veal and return to pot, basting with sauce.

Serve over polenta or any other starch you like!

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New York Restaurants

Duck Lunch at Momofuku Ssam Bar

February 12, 2013

Lunch on a workday is often a hurried affair involving a local deli or neighboring sushi shop though if you want to stretch your hour a bit and be greatly rewarded, look no further than Momofuku Ssam Bar’s fantastic duck lunch. Only offered on weekdays, it’s the best reason you’ll find to get out of midtown and discover this unbelievably good protein in all its delights.

Count on David Chang’s Momofuku Empire of restaurants to bring such a splendid idea ‘to the table’ and to do it so tastefully you’ll wonder how you’ve ever gone without it. The menu is an odd to the versatility of duck and offers many tempting treats such as fried duck dumplings, duck pot pie, smoked duck liver mousse, etc. though for your first visit there really is only one way to go – the house specialty of rotisserie duck over rice.

Before digging into the main dish, we started off with the highly recommended pulled duck buns. Momofuku being well known for its pork belly buns we thought it was the way to go and it certainly didn’t disappoint! The steamed bun was airy and super soft, perfect cushion for the luscious pulled duck meat confit and tzaziki sauce liberally falling off as we took each bite. A slight hint of mint and harissa rounded out the clean though indulgent taste – this would make a perfectly acceptable lunch with a side dish.

Next we jumped straight into the duck over rice lunch set which includes the rotisserie duck, rice, a chive pancake (a must), lettuce, sauces, and a side dish of your choice (we picked broccoli to have something ‘healthy’ though if you’re going all out the fingerling potatoes would make a very filling accompaniment). The broccoli, though not the healthiest, was addictively covered with a creamy smoked bluefish vinaigrette and crispy duck skin as topping.

The duck arrives in all its pinky juicy glory, cooked to perfection with a slightly crispy skin and on the side a bit of the shredded duck confit we had earlier in our steamed buns. At $20 this is a lunch bowl on the higher side of the scale but a single bite will be a succulent reminder that you should be treating yourself more often…

A trio of chili sauce, hoisin sauce, and fried shallots is set on the table as well as a bowl of Bibb lettuce, ready for your foodie masterpiece.

Whether you decide to tear up the savory chive pancake, use a lettuce as the main vehicle or do like I did and combine the two (!), just dab a little bit of your favorite sauce, sprinkle liberally with the fried shallots, roll it all up and be ready to be mesmerized.

Momofuku Ssam Bar
207 Second Ave at 13th St

New York, NY

Duck lunch served Mon – Fri, 11:30 am – 3:30 pm

T: (212) 254-3500

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Dessert Recipes

Belgian Chocolate Ice Cream Sundae Waffles

February 8, 2013

I love waffles for breakfast but it can be quite an undertaking to whip up a fresh batch one morning, especially if they’re just for you! Using them as a base for desserts is a wonderful way to enjoy them later in the day and get out my waffle iron which is probably the most underused of all my kitchen appliances.

Sundae-style waffles are a kid’s favorite and an adult’s playful dessert. As soon as the chocolaty waffle is ready, it’s up to you to top it with your favorite ice cream and any other toppings you wish such as strawberries, whipped cream, syrup, chopped nuts, etc. I stayed classic here and used a fancy vanilla ice cream (spiked with Bourbon!) and an easy homemade chocolate sauce…perfect! The thick Belgian waffle is the ideal cushion for whatever you’ll opt to pile on top of it, the deep indentations holding everything that might melt or fall. My only advice is to hurry and serve them while the waffles are still warm… the mix of hot and cold is half the treat here!

Belgian Chocolate Ice Cream Sundae Waffles

Recipe from Pancakes & Waffles

Active and total time: 1 hr

Makes 6 to 8 waffles

Waffles:

2 cups all-purpose flour

2/3 cup unsweetened cocoa powder

2/3 cup packed light brown sugar

2 teaspoons baking powder

½ teaspoon baking soda

Dash of salt

4 large eggs, seperated

2 cups milk

6 tablespoons (¾ stick) unsalted butter, melted

2 teaspoons vanilla extract

1 quart vanilla bean. coffee, or your favorite flavor of ice cream

Rich Chocolate Sauce:

6 oz bittersweet or semisweet chocolate, cut in chunks, or 1 cup chocolate chips

½ cup light cream or coffee

¼ light corn syrup

1 teaspoon vanilla extract

Preheat a waffle iron. In a large bowl, whisk together the flour, cocoa, sugar, baking powder, baking soda, and salt. In another bowl, beat the egg whites with an electric mixer until stiff, glossy peaks form.

In another bowl, beat or whisk together the egg yolks, milk, butter, and vanilla. Add the milk mixture to the dry ingredients and mix just until combines. Fold in the egg whites. Your batter is now ready.

Before baking your waffles, prepare the Rich Chocolate Sauce as follow: In the top of a double boiler over simmering water, combine the chocolate, cream, and corn syrup, stirring until smooth. Stir in the vanilla and transfer to a serving bowl (sauce can keep refrigerated up to a week – simply reheat in the microwave for 30 seconds or over simmering water).

Now you’re ready to bake your waffles. Spoon or pour about 1 cup batter onto the hot iron. Close the lid. Bake until the waffle is crisp, about 4 minutes. Remove with a fork to a warm plate. Serve at once or keep warm on a baking sheet in a 200ºF oven. Repeat with the remaining batter.