Blog - Flying Fourchette

Seafood and Graffiti in Lisbon

February 3, 2013

London in January is unsurprisingly grey and cold and more so this year with bitter cold temperatures and a sudden ‘snowstorm’ taking over Old Blighty. A getaway to Lisbon seemed like a good cure and I happily convinced a friend of mine to fly from Stockholm (equally freezing!) and meet me in the ‘City of the Seven Hills’ one Friday morning for a few days of seafood and wine.

I firmly believe that a 5am departure for the airport is easily bearable as long as an epic lunch awaits you at your destination, and I made sure it did! After checking in at the hotel we headed straight to Cervejaria Ramiro (Avenida Almirante Reis 1), a locals favorite ‘beerhouse’. Always crowded, the noisy place is a heaven for fresh seafood at reasonable prices which they love to eat with a beer or a cold bottle of Vinho Verde.

Wanting to try something new, I handpicked from the menu some strange-looking sea creatures called Percebes (or gooseneck barnacles). These tube-like crustaceans live attached to rocks and boats and are an expensive delicacy widely consumed in Portugal and Spain. They require a bit of know-how to eat (our waiter had to show us to twist and break the leathery barnacle before slurping the grayish flesh) and are quite messy (watch out for the unavoidable squirt!) but it’s one taste I won’t forget anytime soon. Despite their ugly exterior I have to say they’re some of the most delicious seafood items I have ever eaten – sweet and slightly briny flesh, texture close to an octopus, with a fresh and intense taste of the sea…

Next came the Amêijoas à Bulhão Pato (clams with white wine) which is one of the most popular first course found all over Portugal and shouldn’t be missed. Use plenty of the delicious Pao con mantega (bread with butter) to soak up the amazing garlicky sauce.

Lastly, a big lavagante (lobster) – which our waiter showed us still alive to make sure we were happy with the selection – arrived at our table, cut and broken into giant morsels of exquisite flesh, the perfect complement to an amazing sea-centric lunch. They brought over mayonnaise so you can even whip yourself a small lobster roll with the hot buttered bread (which I did…divine!).

The restaurant is downtown though not in the nicest of neighborhoods so we ventured further south for a few minutes before hitting the real heart of the city: Baixa. The business and shopping district of Lisbon, Baixa stands relatively flat between two hills and is where you’ll find a plethora of 18th-century neoclassical buildings (all built after the devastating earthquake of 1755) and the city’s main squares, Rossio and Praça do Comércio.

In search of an older side of Lisbon and in need of some exercise, we looked up towards the hills to the West and headed for the top. From Praça dos Restauradores, you can take the Elevador da Glória, a funicular (the city has only three) that links Baixa with Bairro Alto if you don’t feel like climbing up the steep hill. We decided to walk up after spotting some cool graffiti Lisbon is famous for dotting the way.

However you choose to go up, the real draw is the superb viewpoint that awaits you atop the hill, the Miradouro de São Pedro de Alcântara. The belvedere offers panoramic views of Lisbon with St. George’s castle in the distance and a perfect place for a short break.

Now you find yourself in Bairro Alto, the bohemian neighborhood sitting up high and filled with cute shops and bars. This section of town survived the earthquake in 1755 so you can catch a glimpse of pre-18th century Lisbon architecture and gorgeous churches and wander around the colorful cobbled lanes. Quiet during the day, it turns later on into the city’s vibrant nightlife quarter with people spilling onto the streets.

Walking down the hill you find the elegant district of Chiado, the cultural and shopping hub of the city with its theaters, old school cafes and glamorous designer boutiques. Stop by Café A Brasileira (Rua Garrett 120), one of the oldest and most famous cafés of Lisbon (poet Fernando Pessoa was a regular) to admire the art deco style and step back in time for a while. Yes it’s jam-packed with tourists but the spirit of the place, still frequented by writers, is worth the hassle.

Up a bit from Rua Garrett (via Carmo Square) is yet another fantastic viewpoint over the city offered by the Santa Justa Elevator. The only remaining vertical lift in the city, it connects Carmo Square with the lower streets of Baixa and the panoramic views from its terrace and walkway are some of the best in the city.

Back down in the middle of all the shops, a bright storefront will definitely lure you in. Rua do Carmo is home to Lisbon’s most famous ice cream shop, Santini, which was highly recommended by the locals. Stop by the cute, retro-looking red and white shop for an amazing gelato like they’ve been doing for over 60 years…

Although modern designer shops abound, the neighborhood still has a few old-fashioned testimonials to the city’s past and none more adorable than A Vida Portuguesa (Rua Anchieta 11). Set in an old warehouse, the shop sells all kinds of vintage and hard to find Portuguese household items, handicrafts, cosmetics, etc. in the most beautiful general store setting I’ve ever seen.

Just a few steps away from the crowd, down a quieter street past the Teatro Nacional de São Carlos, you’ll find Cantinho do Avillez (Rua Duques de Bragança 7), my top Lisbon restaurant from this trip. Think relaxed atmosphere with simple but sophisticated cuisine and you have a winner in my book. It helps that Cantinho is the latest project from a famous Michelin Star chef, José Avillez, and his talent really shines in the creative Portuguese comfort food we indulged in – highly recommend it!

Broth cod with poached egg and bread soup, Alentejo style: my top discovery on this trip, such a flavorful soup where they drizzle crusty bread with olive oil and then drown it with a hot broth made with cod, salt, garlic and coriander…and with the poached egg it just became amazing…

Marinated scallops with avocado

Fried green beans and a nice bottle of rosé!

‘Bulhão Pato‘ style shrimp

Lisbon doesn’t come with a long-list of must-see museums which is refreshing as what you should be spending most of your time doing is wandering aimlessly in its streets and getting lost. I highly recommend though that you pay a visit to the National Tile Museum outside the city center; an homage to the beautiful decorative art that adorns the city’s buildings and makes Lisbon so distinctive. It truly is one of a kind.

Although the over 7,000 tiles exhibited are the main draw, I found just walking around the atmospheric building (the museum is housed in a 16th century convent) and visiting the adjoining church, cloisters and choir to be even more impressive.

When dinner time comes, choices are numerous around the Baixa-Chiado area but we opted to step out of the center a bit and went to the highly praised Alma restaurant in Santos, a trendy waterside quarter next to Bairro Alto. An all-white and elegant canvas for celebrity chef Henrique Sá Pessoa, Alma has quickly become one of Lisbon most popular restaurant offering modern cuisine at gentle prices. Go for the exquisite and eclectic cuisine, a wonderful way to have a taste of Lisbon’s burgeoning nouvelle cuisine movement.

Squid and prawns sauteed in chilli and garlic with cherry tomato compote, rocket and parmesan salad

Seared scallops with white bean puree, cauliflower, chicken liver jelly, balsamic reduction – definitely the highlight of the meal!

A Spanish stew with shrimps and scallops

Roast fillet of salted cod with chickpea puree and chickpea vinaigrette, oven roasted tomato

Another day in Lisbon starts the colorful way with more graffiti and this time they are epic. Derelict buildings are becoming canvas for international artists and one not to be missed can be found just outside the Picoas Metro Station. The massive mural was created by Os Gémeos and Blu.

Jumping in a cab, we made our way west to reach Belem, Lisbon’s historical area. It was from here that many of the great Portuguese explorers such as Magellan, Vasco de Gama, etc. embarked on their voyages and many important and fascinating monuments are worth a visit. But before that, breakfast is calling and in the area you simply can’t avoid the famous Pastel de Nata at Pastéis de Belém (Rua Belém 84), the king of all Portuguese pastries.

It is believed that the egg tart pastries (which I’ve first encountered in Hong Kong) have been created next door by monks from the Jerónimos Monastery (see below) so you really can’t get more authentic than this. People line up to take theirs to go but we ventured inside, curious about the feel of the institution that’s been serving the delectable custard tarts since 1837. As expected, beautiful tiles mosaic line the walls and locals chat over coffee and pastries as if no time had passed at all.

We got out in time to witness the monthly Changing of the Guard which occurs every third Sunday of the month in front of the Belém Palace.

The Jerónimos Monastery is visually stunning, a fascinating example of a peculiarly ornate Gothic style of Portuguese architecture known as Manueline.

The nearby Tower of Belém was built to commemorate Vasco da Gama’s expedition and is a much photographed symbol of Portugal’s maritime glory.

Heading back towards the city centre, our last remaining hours were devoted to visiting Lisbon’s oldest and much beloved Alfama neighborhood. The Casa dos Bicos (or House of Spikes) at the bottom of the hill, from early 16th century, is famous for its curious facade and hosts a few exhibitions inside.

Just down the street is the one foodie address I’m glad I discovered: Conserveira de Lisboa (Rua Bacalhoeiros 34). There really isn’t any obvious gifts or souvenirs one must absolutely bring back from Portugal apart from Port and other wines, but I think I found one at this adorable shop. An old cannery store that’s been in business for over 80 years, la Conserveira sells the cutest tins of preserved-fish I have ever seen, I literally wanted them all! Hundreds of colorful and vintage looking tins are lining up the walls and all you have to do is point and buy…which is how I ended up with cod in olive oil, smoked octopus, sardines in escabeche, mussels, mackerel, etc. I’m already salivating at the idea of savoring them back home with a good bottle of Vinho Verde!

The best way to see the Alfama is to get to the top with the Tram 28. Take it from the start at Martim Moniz near Rossio and enjoy the ride as it winds its way up the hills of the old Moorish neighborhood.

It unfortunately started raining quite a bit but we still got off the tram near the Castle and wandered in the picturesque old twisting alleys for a while before hiding in a cute wine bar waiting for the rain to stop (it didn’t…).

Even in the downpour and foggy hills though, Lisbon is breathtakingly beautiful and is sure to see us returning again.

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Appetizer Main course Recipes Vegetarian

Cheddar and Potato Soup

January 25, 2013

As frigid temperatures and bitter cold winds have taken over the Northeast these past few days, I can hardly think of a better time to whip up a big pot of cheesy soup to warm me from the inside out. I could honestly eat any kind of soup every day during wintertime but right now calls for some serious decadence and this Cheddar and Potato soup really fits the bill.

You only need a few simple ingredients to make this sumptuous soup so don’t skimp on them, i.e. get a really good cheddar and buy fresh sage as they are both crucial to the dish’s flavor. The result is a thick and creamy potato base in which you scatter to your liking chunks of cheddar cheese, a unique and playful way to enjoy this popular duo. You can be as liberal or stingy as you wish with the cheese (I’m definitely of the former camp!) which gives you control over the richness of the soup, though any way you decide to go it’ll still end up being the rich and super comforting solution to your winter blues. Now all you have to do is fill a big bowl, grab a piece of thick bread, and go hide under the covers until the storm passes…

Cheddar and Potato Soup

Recipe from the restaurant Alias in New York

Active time: 20 minutes

Total time: 35 minutes

Makes 4 servings

2 cups milk

1 qt heavy cream

8 Yukon gold potatoes, peeled and quartered

½ tablespoon kosher salt

½ lb aged cheddar cheese

10 fresh sage leaves

Fresh cracked black pepper

Pour milk and cream into a saucepan. Add potatoes and kosher salt and bring to a steady simmer (never boil the potatoes).

When the potatoes are fork tender, strain and save liquid.

Mash potatoes and add milk and cream back (use potato masher or blender). The texture should coat the back of a spoon.

Chunk up cheese with a fork so they are about ½-inch chunks and cut sage into strips.

Presentation

Pour soup into 4 warm shallow soup bowls until about ¼ inch below rim. Add cheese around the bowl liberally (you should see the chunks). Sprinkle each bowl with sage and grind fresh black pepper over the entire soup.

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Main course Recipes

Apricot-Glazed Chicken Drumsticks

January 21, 2013

While the world seems to have chosen the wings as their favorite chicken parts to snack on, I’ve always preferred the humble drumstick. From my days as a kid eagerly scooping them out of the bucket of KFC to today’s more grown-up versions I make at home, their superiority is still unrivalled. Let’s be honest, they require a lot less work, are a lot less messy to eat, are pretty cheap and their huge chunks of fatty meat makes them really hard to overcook.

Instead of the usual BBQ sauce, this recipe is packed with classic Asian sweet and tangy flavors and is a perfect make-ahead dinner. Let them marinate overnight and just pop them in the oven when you’re ready. Apricot preserves are the secret weapon for making quick and tasty glazed chicken drumsticks (or wings or breasts…you could use it on anything here, even pork). The chicken ends up nicely charred and moist, fall off the bones tender with a rich, deep flavor which will pair nicely with some steamed broccoli florets, spinach, or green beans.

Apricot-Glazed Chicken Drumsticks

Recipe from Gourmet Magazine

Active time: 30 minutes

Total time: 9½ hours

Makes 8 servings

1/2 cup finely chopped shallots (2 large)
1/4 cup finely chopped peeled ginger
2 tablespoons vegetable oil
1/2 cup red-wine vinegar
2/3 cup soy sauce
1½ cup apricot preserves
16 chicken drumsticks (4 1/2 pounds)

Cook shallots and ginger in oil in a small heavy saucepan over medium heat, stirring occasionally, until softened and golden, about 5 minutes. Stir in vinegar and boil until reduced by about half, about 2 minutes. Add soy sauce, preserves, and 1/4 teaspoon each of salt and pepper and simmer, uncovered, stirring occasionally, 15 minutes.

Purée sauce in a blender until smooth (use caution when blending hot liquids), then cool to room temperature.

Divide chicken between 2 large sealable bags and pour marinade over chicken. Seal bags, pressing out excess air, and marinate, chilled, turning bag over occasionally, at least 8 hours (can be marinated up to 24 hours).

Preheat oven to 425°F with rack in middle.

Line a 17- by 12-inch shallow heavy baking pan with 2 slightly overlapping sheets of foil, then lightly oil foil. Arrange chicken (with marinade) in 1 layer in pan.

Roast chicken, turning once, until deep brown, cooked through, and glazed, about 40 minutes total.

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New York Restaurants

La Vara, Brooklyn

January 15, 2013

I’m always a little hesitant when it comes to reviewing fantastic restaurants in my neighborhood, but as much as I’d like to keep La Vara to myself, looks like the word is already out as shown by the small crowds lining the sidewalk on Clinton street most nights. One more tapas restaurant rarely seems like something to write about unless it serves something so distinct and unique you have to travel ‘all the way to Brooklyn’ to see what the fuss is about.

Jewish-Spanish cuisine is, I must admit, something I’m really not familiar with and La Vara is on its way to putting it on the culinary map. It’s not especially daunting as you’ll still recognize a few of your favorite dishes but it feels special enough to make you want to know more about the history of medieval Jewish and Islamic cuisines that existed in southern Spain a long time ago as you bite into the excellent Moorish fare.

What’s daunting though is the menu. Its sheer size lists anything from bites, breads, fried stuff, cold dishes, hot plates, salads, etc. and that’s not including the 6-8 specials every day which means only one thing: you should come here with a group to sample as much as you can. Trust the owners of Txikito and El Quinto Pino in Manhattan to bring their fearless cooking and love of Spain amongst the beautiful brownstones of cutesy Cobble Hill and whatever you order will be a memorable trip, even better washed down with their homemade sangria…

A special salad of sauteed green beans, serrano ham, and chopped eggs

Coca de Cebes – sweet onion and blue goat cheese on Mallorcan flat bread

Alcachofa – fried artichokes paired with a creamy anchovy aioli

Ajo Blanco – scallop tartare is garnished tableside with white gazpacho made from Marcona almonds

Berenjena con miel – crispy eggplant with honey, melted cheese, nigella seed

Another daily special – fried bread, chorizo, grapes

Albondigas (lamb meatballs) with mint yogurt

Fideúa with clams, squid, and shrimp

Spanish goats milk cheese with candied squash

Natillas De Arroz Con Leche – cinnamon-rose and rice scented custard with grapefruit and rosemary

Egipcio – orange blossom scented date walnut tart, lemon curd, sweet cream

La Vara

268 Clinton Street

Brooklyn, NY 11201

T: (718) 422-0065

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Appetizer Breakfast / Brunch Recipes

Pork Cretons and Rillettes

January 10, 2013

Having just gotten back from a short trip home in Quebec in sub-zero temperatures and a massive snow storm (20 inches in one day!), no wonder I’ve been craving all kinds of comfy food that reminds me of home in the wintertime. I could have made a number of things such as tourtière or ragoût de boulettes, but somehow the idea of cooking up a batch of homemade pâté on a lazy afternoon while enjoying the last few days of my Christmas tree and festively decked out apartment seemed a lot more appropriate.

Cretons are probably the favorite spread of Quebecois all over, usually eaten at breakfast but enjoyable any time. They’re essentially a pork spread, delicious served on toast or crackers and can even make a decent sandwich, any way you like. They’re similar in ingredients to French style rillettes, the main difference being in the way they’re finished: one by hand (rillettes) and the other by machine (cretons), resulting in two very different texture and taste. I do love a bit of variety so how perfect that I found a recipe that would combine the two!

Surprisingly, they’re incredibly simple to make and the only thing you need to consider is the time investment (i.e. better done on a weekend). Essentially you’ll be slow-cooking a pork shoulder in a flavorful broth and then reducing the broth to bind the cooked meat together, easy. Traditionally some lard is added to the pot, leaving the pork to poach in its own fat, though we’ve omitted this step here, making a lighter version for those post-holidays resolutions!

What you’ll end up with is two versions of unctuous ‘pig jam’, tasting nothing but pure, unadulterated pork and leaving you with only the tough decision of choosing between the creamy cretons or rustic and coarser rillettes…or why not mix the two! They’re better served at room temperature, and adding a bit of onion jam or any other sweet fruit jam or jelly as topping is always a good idea. Make them for yourself when you’re in need of some old fashioned French fare, or better yet serve them at your next dinner party – it’s crazy how a simple pot of homemade rillettes will get you impressed stares on a ‘I can’t believe you made this’ level.

Pork Rillettes

Adapted from ‘Cuisine Revisitee’ by Ian Perreault

Active time: 45 minutes

Total time: 8 hours

Makes 12 servings as an appetizer

1kg pork shoulder, cut into big pieces

250g mirepoix (finely diced celery, carrots, onions, leeks)

2 bay leaves

10 black peppercorns

4 juniper berries

½ bunch of fresh thyme

Salt and pepper, to taste

50ml extra virgin olive oil

Juice of two oranges

*Optional:

50ml hazelnut oil

80g powdered, roasted hazelnuts

Put all of the ingredients (except for the hazelnut oil and powdered hazelnuts if using) in a large saucepan.

Add water up to 7.5cm (3 inches) above the meat. Cook for about 3 hours over medium heat while regularly skimming the surface to remove impurities.

Remove the cooked pieces of meat from the saucepan and finely shred them, discarding the fat. Set aside.

Skim the broth and reduce to about 1/6 of its original quantity, slowly, while regularly skimming the surface.

Mix the reduced broth with the meat in a mixing bowl (you might not need the entire broth but make sure the meat is very moist and tender). Season to taste with salt and pepper and store in a plastic container for a minimum of 4 hours. They are then ready to be eaten!

If you want to try a different texture, put half of the prepared rillettes in a food processor with the hazelnut oil and powdered hazelnuts. Mix well until very smooth and serve with a good baguette.