A culture-filled capital city flanked by mountains means you’re never far away from a short nature escape when in Tirana. One of the best day trips you can do is head east towards Mount Dajti for views, a bit of exercise, and to visit the city’s number one attraction: Bunk’Art 1.
Reachable by an easy direct bus from the city center or taxi, the entrance to Bunk’Art 1 seems to appear out of nowhere on the hillside as you start climbing the side of Mount Dajti. This massive underground nuclear shelter was built by Albania’s former dictator Enver Hoxha to protect himself and his government in case of war. His extreme paranoia led him to build thousands of bunkers all over the country, draining its finances and leaving Albania one of Europe’s poorest countries. This one is by far the largest and was the first one to be converted into a cultural site followed a few years later by Bunk’Art 2 in Tirana’s city center.
You first go through a narrow approach tunnel carved into the hillside which sets you up nicely for the kind of spooky atmosphere you can expect during your visit.
After getting your ticket next to a still active military base, you make your way up along a wooded path with parts of the concrete bunker peeking out from the rock on the mountainside until you find the entrance door.
The way in is through a series of heavy doors meant to protect from a blast followed by a decontamination chamber.
Once you’re in, long corridors and over 100 rooms spread over five floors await to tell you the story of the dictator’s life and undisputable power. It’s really informative, definitely spooky, and immensely claustrophobic as you loose sense of where you are deep underground with no natural light and warning signs that lights could go off at any time (!).
Hoxha’s private rooms are the fanciest part with a large office, bedroom and bathroom suite for him and his wife.
An entire room is dedicated to the “Program of Bunkarisation” which ran from 1975 to 1983. Around 173,371 bunkers were built in horrible conditions, essentially one for every 11 residents, causing the death of hundreds of civilians and soldiers.
You’ll be glad to feel the fresh air again after a few hours underground. Luckily, just a few minutes walk from Bunk’Art you’ll find the cable car to get to the top of Mount Dajti.
The 15 minutes ride on the Dajti Express lets you take in the expanse of Tirana but the most interesting views are down below. Try to spot the now familiar shape of abandoned bunkers throughout the vegetation underneath you, there are a few to be found!
Once at the top, you’ll find activities aplenty for the family, from horseback riding to ziplining in the adventure park, but the best lies beyond deeper in the park.
Take a trail to explore the nature around, the ruins of an abandoned hotel, and keep going to immerse yourself in the surrounding pine forest.
Leave room for a panoramic meal at Ballkoni Dajti right on the edge of the mountain.
The alpine style restaurant is right next to the cable car station for your return trip and serves delicious and hearty traditional Albanian dishes.
They make a mean version of the classic Tavë kosi “Elbasani” – a soured milk casserole with lamb from the city of Elbasan.
From deep underground to a serene mountaintop, this packed day is a favorite to see yet another angle of this multifaceted and unexpected city.
[…] life today with great success. Make sure to visit the first Bunk’Art 1 and read about it in my other post – it’s just outside the city center, much bigger, and in my opinion much more […]