While no longer as ‘undiscovered’ as it was just a few years ago, Italy’s southern region of Puglia still feels rather untouched with its superb beaches, rocky coastline, and wonderfully preserved old towns. Making up the heel of Italy, Puglia (or Apulia) is exceptionally sun-soaked and dry and is an ideal holiday road trip with plenty of stunning sightseeing and some of the best food and wine in the country.

Starting from the north and driving down the coast, the first town worth stopping by is Trani, known as the ‘Pearl of Puglia’.

The beautiful stone-built port and fishing village was once one of the most important medieval Italian ports and a prosperous trading centre.

One of the numerous castles dotting the coast stands at the end of the harbour, hinting at the threats that must have been coming frequently from the Adriatic sea.

Trani’s true landmark though is its splendid 11th century cathedral, right on the sea at the edge of the old town. The cream-coloured three stacked churches are a stunning sight against the blue sky and sea.

Dedicated to San Nicola Pellegrino, it is one of the most beautiful examples of Romanesque architecture in the region with the austere facade, pretty rose window and slender bell tower soaring into the sky.

Wandering through the streets around the harbour gives a good impression of the medieval city, looking unusually sophisticated thanks to the use of the local limestone of a warm golden white.

Despite the slight drizzle, it was a delight to walk the paved, narrow roads of the very well maintained historical centre, catching glimpse of the fishing life as well as private palaces from centuries ago.

For a bite, pick any of the small restaurants along the harbour front where you can enjoy fresh fish caught locally and delicious wine from a few miles away.

Fresh fish served raw with only a drizzle of green olive oil is a delight and a specialty of the coast.

Tuna tartare

Octopus

Pizza bianca

Mushroom souffle

Further down the coast, another fishing village worth a stop is Monopoli.

Here again you should head straight to the small port, picturesque though smaller than Trani’s, with a handful of fishing boats and fishermen untangling their nets.

An imposing 16th-century castle sits between the port and the start of the old town.

There’s not a ton to see in Monopoli but you could easily spend a few hours wandering through the centro storico as well as outside its fortified walls.

The village was first established by the Greeks before falling under Venetian control which will explain a lot of the architecture and the stark white and blue colors that make the old town so strikingly beautiful.

Flowers and all sorts of greenery abound at every corner.

You’ll stumble upon quite a few churches, their spire peeking out from narrow alleyways wherever you look.

They contrast beautifully with neighboring white buildings, showing how old the town truly is.

The imposing Baroque cathedral would be hard to miss and can be seen from almost any vantage point.

Finish your visit by stepping outside the old city walls and witnessing one of Monopoli’s real draw – the hordes of locals taking up any rock or bit of sand to sun themselves on the city beach…

If you want a proper beach though, just head a bit further south and suddenly you’ll see the coast changing from rocky to wild, passing innumerable sandy beaches with parked cars and BBQ, and even more beach clubs offering all the services you could ever want.

We decided to stop at Lido Bosco Verde which not only offers a nice stretch of sandy beach, a few bars, and main facilities, but also an excellent fish restaurant since a day at the beach without an epic lunch would hardly be worth it…wouldn’t it?

Take a seat on the terrace shaded with olive trees and don’t forget to take a look at the daily catch on offer, can’t do any fresher than this! Whether you opt to have one of these beauties simply prepared or dig through the menu of contemporary though unfussy take on Puglia’s traditional specialties, this is an excellent way to spend a few hours and finish your day on the coast.

Complimentary tuna tapenade

Local oysters

Salmon carpaccio

Fried octopus croquettes

Fried calamari

Spaghetti alle vongole

Pasta with tomato sauce

Capunti with prawns, cream zucchini, and mint

Pacheri with fish

The mountainous isle of Capri is a top rated holiday destination for worldwide travelers and few islands can rival with its glamorous image. Most arrive from Naples or Sorrento by ferry with either a few hours or a few days to spend in this enchanting destination whose impressive limestone rock soars from the Tyrrhenian Sea.

Famed for its unparalleled scenery and sea views, Capri is all about heights as you’ll notice as soon as you reach the harbor.

All ferries arrive at the port of Marina Grande which is usually overrun by daytrippers (more than 20,000 on average in the high season!). With its tacky souvenir shops and cheap restaurants with touristy menus, this is not the Capri you came to see and you should start making your way up now.

The island really has two communities so you have your pick of starting your day either in Capri town for expensive shopping or Anacapri for a quieter morning. We hopped on the bus to the latter which is situated on a plateau above Capri. From there you can take the chairlift up to the top of Monte Solaro, the highest point of Capri.

The 12-minute ride up offers plenty of panoramic photo opportunities and confirmation of the island’s scenic charm.

Once at the summit, you get a good view of Capri’s wilder side and natural beauty.

Giant cliffs hide secret coves and sea caves, tiny rocky beaches are only accessible by boats, villas peak out from underneath the luxurious foliage, and then there’s the bluest of sea… No wonder this is a dream honeymoon destination.

You can opt to walk down or take the chairlift again back to Anacapri which has a quaint little old center. Take some time to wander around a few historical buildings such as the cathedral and a number of imperial roman villas worth checking out before venturing into the slightly crazier part of the island.

View from Anacapri of Marina Grande and the surroundings of Capri

You can take a public bus to get to the center of Capri town but the ‘proper’ way to experience the island is to hail one of the iconic convertible taxis, put on your sunglasses and let your hair loose in the breeze feeling every little bit like Jacky O in the 1950s. While it sits lower than Anacapri, the town of Capri still offers breathtaking views especially along its circular path which goes up and around the south side of the island.

Most of Capri town is only accessible by foot so wear comfortable shoes and be ready for a bit of a hike as you explore the narrow lanes, passing magnificent villas and gardens fit for celebrities.

Heading uphill from Capri town towards the Arco Naturale (signposted) will lead you straight to the off-the-beaten path and must-try restaurant Le Grottelle.

The views alone from the terrace are worth the little trek to get there and while you won’t feast on fancy, Michelin star grub, the simple and authentic food served here is the perfect accompaniment to the impressive scenery.

Simple dishes such as a tomato salad are something else with the island’s sun-ripened tomatoes and the peppery basil that grows on its terraces.

Spaghetti with tomato and basil

Fried antipasto

Grilled shrimps

Walking back down towards the old center of Capri, you’ll soon discover what has made the island such a hit with the shopaholics and well-heeled of society as you passed by myriads of fancy designer boutiques and high-end restaurants. The maze of narrow lanes is often overcrowded during the day so this is where it pays to be an overnighter as you’ll have them ‘practically’ all to yourself in the evenings when the crowds have gone.

Almost every lane will lead you straight to Capri’s most famous square, Piazza Umberto I, more commonly known simply as the Piazzetta. It is the center of the island’s social life and a perfect place to sit back and relax at one of the four bars, glancing up to admire the surrounding monuments such as the clock tower and cathedral, but mostly just enjoying the people-watching opportunities in what people refers to as the ‘world’s little theatre’.

You shouldn’t leave without a taste of the local specialty, the torta Caprese, a flourless, chocolate-almond torte which originated here on the island, simply sublime. I have a recipe here if you can’t make it to Capri!

Just steps from the Piazzetta is the funicular, a scenic way to go down to Marina Grande where you’ll be catching the ferry back. One last food stop for the ride – lemon gelato, a refreshing local flavor…

A short day trip was enough to get a glimpse of Capri and its beauty albeit a pretty commercialized and touristy one. The island has a lot more serene spots and remote paradises if you extend your trip for a few days and take a walk along the numerous footpaths leading to the secret coves we could see from above. A revoir….

The Amalfi Coast certainly needs no introduction with its stunning beauty and dramatic landscape featured everywhere as the ultimate Mediterranean scenery. One day driving its sinuous roads is enough to charm you senseless, and a few more will turn you into a hard core devotee.

When coming from the north which most people are, the first main city to welcome you to this gorgeous region is Sorrento, perched high above the Bay of Naples.

The pretty old town stretches from the Piazza Tasso in all directions, passing shops, bars, restaurants, and trees heavy with lemons.

Right by the city centre down a deep gorge, ruins from an old mill make for a hauntingly beautiful sight.

The narrow streets are filled with souvenir shops, mostly food related and 50% having to do with the region’s king of all fruits – the lemon. Limoncello shops and tasting rooms are at every corner so you can sip away the sweet concoction while you look around.

Sorrento Cathedral

Down a little side street, you’ll find Inn Bufalito, a mozzarella bar and restaurant specializing in Buffalo cheese and meat. It’s one of the city’s most popular and I can vouch for the casual vibe as much as for the scrumptious meal – bring on the cheese!

Buffalo Burrata cheese with tomato coulis

Warm vegetables with buffalo mozzarella

Focaccia with Rosemary

Buffalo meat Carpaccio

Paccheri with buffalo meat ragu

Fusilli with Buffalo meat sauce

Buffalo Steak

Cheesecake

Dark chocolate tart

Almonds & Lemon Tart

Following the coast west from Sorrento will get you to Massa Lubrense in about 10-15 minutes, a charming and lush commune where we opted to base ourselves for a few days. Renting a villa or an apartment is the best option if you want the splendid views with a dose of tranquility and flexibility. With a terrace like this, I sure wasn’t complaining…

Driving the Amalfi Coast should be on everyone’s list, both for the drop-dead gorgeous scenery and sheer thrill of negotiating those famous hairpin bends with the numerous tourist buses invariably going the other way.

Every way you look: turquoise water, colorful villas spilling down the cliffside, small beaches, green terraces, etc.

It’s worth making a few stops and Ravello should be a priority as few places can compete with the views this highly perched town affords.

The peaceful and polished square with its cathedral sets the tone of this elegant resort town.

The square’s cafe is the ideal setting for a morning coffee break of cornetto and cookies filled with nutella and apricot jam.

And let’s not forget the ricotta and pear tart which I’ve been indulging in almost every cities we visited.

The traffic-free town is charming on its own though stepping into one of its main villas will uncover the true glamour of bygone days and illustrious artists that stayed here.

The castle-like Villa Rufolo makes for an enchanting walk with history spanning hundreds of years and Arab influences at every corner.

It’s the elegant gardens and terraces though that will leave you speechless…

…and the heart-stopping, vertigo-inducing views from the belvedere.

When you’re ready to get down to sea level, the fishing town of Cetara awaits not too far away with its secluded beach, quaint little cottages, and delicious fish cuisine.

Walking up from the town’s pretty little harbor, you can’t help but notice the incredible quietness and picturesque main street that tortuously goes up the hill. Wandering around Cetara is a wonderful way to get a glimpse of traditional living on the Amalfi Coast without the usual hordes of tourists, so you’ll end up lingering here for a while!

Cetara specializes in fishing, processing and preserving tuna and anchovies and is famous for the local production of ‘colatura di alici‘ – dripping of salted anchovies. There’s no better place to sample it than at Acquapazza right by the harbor.

Known across the coast for their anchovies dishes, the menu will please any lover of fish sauce and freshly caught fish which feature on almost every dishes.

Tuna with roasted eggplant cream and powdered olive

Roast octopus with mixed salad

Salted anchovies matured in barriques with olive oil, chili, garlic, and parsley

Amberjack with water, oil, tomatoes, parsley, salt, garlic, white wine

Paccheri with bottarga and figs

Strawberry coulis with sweetened ricotta cheese

Patty hot citrus

Don’t miss a visit to their tasting room next door to sample their homemade culinary delicacy of salted anchovy sauce which you can purchase onsite.

When the fish is caught, the fishermen throw it into wood barrels, alternating layers with handfuls of salt. Then the fish is pressed down by a wooden lid weighted with rocks for a couple of months after which the anchovies have produced the precious and fragrant amber juice.

Last but not least, no trip to the region would be complete without a stop in the epitome of Amalfi chic – Positano.

Considered by many to be the most photogenic town on the coast, admire it from the beach looking up and then climb up the winding streets to get the most out of every angle – you won’t be able to put your camera down.

Steeply stacked houses seem to tumble down into the sea in a splash of pastel colors.

Besides the views, Positano is the place to indulge in glamorous hotels, fashionable boutiques, and authentic restaurants with stunning views.

If you’re after an even higher vantage point and a bit of a good time, then head up much higher in the lush green hills overlooking Positano to Fattoria La Tagliata.

The colorful family-owned restaurant is a tourist magnet with its gargantuan feast served family-style,  live entertainment, and very gentle prices. You’d better pace yourself as you’ll rarely see such an amount of food in one sitting, especially not when it includes over 6 antipasto, 4 different pasta dishes, an extremely large platter of grilled meats, and a sampling of homemade desserts. Just enjoy yourself (and the view if you can come during lunch hour) and savor the simple and rustic dishes and the warmth of your hosts – this will be a meal you won’t forget.

Antipasto

Pasta

Meat!

When you feel like you’re about to explode, you’ll enjoy the opportunity to get out of your chair and participate in the live band along with the owners – you’ll need all the calorie-burning activities possible to make up for what you’ve just ingested!