Blog - Flying Fourchette

Wild Salmon and Summer Vegetables Pie

September 14, 2012

Salmon pies have always been a staple in my family and I believe in many other French Canadian kitchens. My mom would make the dough with Crisco and I’d help her mix mashed potatoes with canned (yes… canned) salmon and then cover the pie with dough, brushing some milk over it. My favorite part was getting all the leftover dough scraps together to rework them into decorations for the pie that I would then scatter over the top. I’ve always had a creative bend from a very early age so the pies could turn into anything from a Christmassy landscape to a flower show to an attempt at recreating wild animals.

I’ve grown up since but I still love the comfort of a salmon pie and my creative side is still very much present! While I wouldn’t hesitate out of nostalgia recreating the pie my mom used to make and reliving those childhood memories, this ‘Wild Salmon and Summer Vegetables Pie’ is a fantastic uptake on the classic and much closer to the way I eat today. Loaded with fresh vegetables and all the benefits and deliciousness of wild salmon, this is one super healthy dish and ideal for this time of year when temperatures start to drop slowly, we begin craving warmer meals and want to take advantage while it’s still time of all those colorful vegetables at the farmers market.

This pie is a meal in itself without feeling heavy and you can even have it cold the next day. It’s perfect for a picnic or party with friends and the lattice pattern on top could very well turn into any artistic canvas if you so desire.

Wild Salmon and Summer Vegetables Pie

Adapted from Food and Travel Magazine

Active time: 1.5 hours

Total time: 2 hours

Makes 6 servings

For the pastry

375g plain flour

188g butter, softened

113g Parmesan cheese finely grated

1½ egg yolks

For the filling

3 tablespoons olive oil

1 medium onion, finely chopped

2 sticks celery, finely chopped

1 small leek, finely chopped

2 medium carrots, coarsely chopped

284ml heavy cream

1 tablespoon cornstarch

3 tablespoons milk

3 tablespoons cooked peas

500g wild salmon, skinned and cut into bite-sized chunks

Large handful of baby spinach leaves

2 ripe tomatoes, seeds removed and chopped

Handful of chives, finely chopped

1 teaspoon chopped tarragon

1 tablespoon chopped chervil

1 egg, beaten

1 tablespoon milk

A4 size (20cm) rectangular loose-bottomed fluted tart tin

Preheat the oven to 180°C/350°F. For the pastry, rub the flour and butter together until the mixture resembles fine breadcrumbs.

Add a large pinch of sea salt and all but a tablespoon of the Parmesan, then add the egg yolks and enough ice-cold water to bring the mixture together to form a soft dough. Wrap in cling film. Leave to rest in a cool place.

Meanwhile, heat the oil in a large frying pan over a low heat and add the onion, celery and leek. Cook for 5 minutes until softened. Add the carrot and cook for a further 5 minutes, until it starts to soften. Pour in the cream. Mix the cornstarch with the milk and add this to the pan, stirring all the time.

Raise the heat a little and cook for 3-4 minutes, until the mixture is thickened and the floury flavor has gone. Stir in the peas, salmon chunks and spinach.

Add the chopped tomatoes and the herbs. Season to taste.

Divide the pastry in half and roll out one half to line the base of the tin.

Roll out the other half and cut into stripes about 1cm wide. Spoon the filling into the tart tin and use the pastry strips to form a lattice pattern on top of the tart, re-rolling as necessary.

Mix together the egg and milk and brush over the pastry strips. Scatter over the remaining Parmesan and bake for 25-30 minutes, until the pastry is golden and crisp. Serve warm or cold.

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Main course Recipes

Rabbit with cucumbers, tomatoes, rosé and basil

September 10, 2012

Now that summer is coming to an end, I’m starting to feel the need to drink as much rosé wine as possible before the cold renders it ‘unseasonal’. Since my lovely trip to Provence a few years ago, I’ve always associated a good rosé with this enchanting region of France, firstly because I discovered there one of my favorite, Rosé de Tavel, and also because the food of Provence with its sun-ripened vegetables, fresh herbs and splendid olive oil is to me the perfect companion to the summary wine.

Cooking a Provencal dish in my kitchen is a delight I can’t get enough of: the windows are open letting in a gentle breeze, the sun is shining through, I have a glass of cold rosé in my hand and the air is filled with the aromatic fresh herbs on the windowsill and Bach playing in the background. I guess I’m constantly visualizing my ultimate dream of settling down in the south of France and throwing dinner parties outdoors in the field, outside my old stone house… In the meantime though (!), I’ll keep on daydreaming from my Brooklyn kitchen by making succulent Provencal dishes such as this rabbit recipe, using fresh and simple ingredients and a lot of good wine!

This is a simple summery dish, extremely easy to make and a good way to try rabbit if you’ve never had it before. It’s a rather uncommon meat in the US though hugely popular in much of the rest of the world, especially in Europe. Rabbit is a very healthy meat, low in fat and high in protein. As it is drier than chicken and leaner, it does well with slow cooking recipes with liquid, which is the case here, for best flavor and texture. The flavors are fresh and mild; don’t be shy with the basil. Serve the rabbit in a pasta or shallow bowl with some good crusty bread to soak up the delicious rosé broth… and of course don’t forget your glass of wine if you haven’t finished the bottle already while waiting for your rabbit to cook!

Rabbit with cucumbers, tomatoes, rosé and basil

Adapted from the Dock Kitchen Cookbook

Active time: 30 minutes

Total time: 2 hours

Makes 4 servings

1 rabbit, jointed (front legs, back legs and saddle cut into 2)

sea salt

freshly ground black pepper

a couple of glugs of olive oil

large pinch of saffron

1 small sweet red onion, very thinly sliced

3 garlic cloves cut into little chips

½ bottle of Provençal rosé wine

4 small cucumbers, cut into little wedges

350g tomatoes (the best you can find, whatever is tastiest) cut the size of the cucumbers

big handful of basil

Firstly, if like me you didn’t get your rabbit already butchered, you’ll need to do the work yourself!

Here’s how to do it:

Lay the rabbit on the chopping board with the rib cage facing upwards, and the small front legs to the left. First, using a small boning knife, cut off these legs. You do this by working the knife along the join between the leg and rib cage, until the joint comes clean away. We call these small front legs ‘shoulders’. Now cut off the two larger rear legs.

You will find a small hip and thigh joint just below the rump. It is easy to tease the joints apart with the tip of your boning knife, while you very gently pull the leg away from the hip. You now have a very neat pair of legs. All that will be left is the saddle, with rib and neck attached which you can now just cut in half using a good pair of kitchen or poultry scissors, voila!

Preheat oven to 180°C/350°F. Put the rabbit joints in a deep roasting tray and season with salt and pepper, olive oil, saffron, onion and garlic.

Pour in the wine and seal with foil, then bake for an hour; the rabbit should be tender but not browned.

Remove the tray from the oven and increase the oven temperature to 220°C/425°F. Add the cucumbers and tomatoes and drizzle with a little olive oil.

Return the tray to the oven, uncovered, and roast until nicely browned and the tomatoes and cucumbers are cooked.

Throw in the basil and serve with a glass of rosé and a hunk of good bread.

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New York Restaurants

Prune, New York

September 6, 2012

In a city known for its brunch culture, the number of places you can go to for your Saturday or Sunday fix of eggs and mimosa is endless. From the corner diner to the quaint little neighborhood Italian, they all make it seems so easy to do a fry up and serve some freshly pressed OJ that most of them have almost become indistinguishable. That is definitely not the case with Prune, a ‘New-American’ restaurant in the East Village that has built up some sort of cult following for their weekend brunches for years.

The lines out the door and the minimum hour wait weeks after weeks are a testament to Prune’s reputation and superb cooking. Never one to be tagged as ‘avant-garde’, Prune excels at a magnificently simple cuisine served with a lack of pretense rarely seen in this neighborhood or even city. People flock here to cure their hangover with spaghetti carbonara and huevos rancheros without ever forgetting to order from the biggest and best Bloody Marys menu around, offering a dozen creations all accompanied by a small glass of beer.

The Ginger-Mint Macerated Fruit Salad is an ideal starter after all this wait, and taste like it would be delicious as a cocktail as well.

A Fried Oyster Omelette is a classic example of the simplicity and gusto of cooking here.

The Eggs en Cocotte for when your appetite isn’t that grand… or you’re feeling a little French that morning: Coddled egg with savory chicken, buttered white toast, and mixed lettuces vinaigrette.

The Huevos Rancheros are just what you came here for – a party platter of spiciness, crunchiness and freshness, perfect with your Bloody Mary.

Chef and owner Gabrielle Hamilton has made of this tiny restaurant a phenomenon revered by all chefs and anyone looking for homey cooking in the most adorable setting. With her memoir “Blood, Bones & Butter” out last year which I had immense pleasure in reading, the crowds have only increased but thankfully the casualness has remained.

Despite the incredibly tight quarters, you’ll never feel rushed or in the way and as rare as it is to see today you’ll understand finally that on top of the incredibly yummy food, it’s the hospitality that makes Prune what it is and will make you come back and wait in line again and again.

Prune

54 East 1st St.

New York, NY

T: (212) 677-6221

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Breakfast / Brunch Recipes Side dish Vegetarian

Tahini and Black Sesame Bread Swirls

September 2, 2012

No matter where you travel to, it seems like every culture has its own take on bread. It is a staple of every cuisine yet so distinctly different from one place to the other that we’ll probably never eat the same bread twice. I’m always fascinated by just how much a few ingredients and local techniques can produce such varied results, whether sweet or savory, for breakfast or tea time, etc. Learning to make bread is I think a unique chance to have a taste of what is often a daily and very sacred ritual in many countries.

Tahini and Black Sesame Bread Swirls are originally from Lebanon and not only have unusual ingredients but also require a pretty unique technique to make them. These flattened flaky swirls are flavored with tahini and sugar, have a moist, almost cakelike consistency, and are usually eaten at tea time though I’ve sneaked in a few at breakfast!

They’re fun to make at home, especially since they’re best eaten warm, either on their own or with your favorite jam or some hummus. Contrary to what you might think, especially after seeing the quantity of sugar used here, they’re actually not too sweet. Biting into these thinly stretched layers of crispy dough with a nutty and caramelized sesame filling is a guaranteed escape to the Middle East and a deeper appreciation for the art of bread making.

Tahini and Black Sesame Bread Swirls

Adapted from Purple Citrus and Sweet Perfume

Active time: 60 minutes

Total time: 3.5 hours

Makes 12 bread swirls

3 tablespoons warm (105° to 115°F) water

1 teaspoon active dry yeast

1 1/3 cups plus 1 tablespoon sugar

3¾ cups all-purpose flour

2 teaspoons ground cinnamon

2 teaspoons sea salt

2 tablespoons olive oil

½ cup tahini, plus more for topping

3 tablespoons black sesame seeds, plus more for topping

Mix the warm water and yeast in a small bowl. Add 1 tablespoon of sugar, stir and set aside for about 10 minutes until it becomes frothy.

In a separate bowl, combine the flour, cinnamon and salt. Add the yeast mixture, the olive oil and about 1 cup of water, stirring to make a rough dough.

Turn the dough out of the bowl and knead on a floured surface for 8-10 minutes, until smooth and elastic. Return the dough to the bowl, cover with plastic wrap and let rise 2 hours. Divide the dough into 2 balls, cover again and let stand for 10 minutes more.

Preheat the oven to 400°F. Line a large baking sheet with parchment paper. On a floured surface, roll a dough ball into a very thin 24-inch-diameter round (or close to), occasionally letting the dough rest for 2 minutes or so if it becomes too elastic to roll. Cut a 1-inch hole from the center of the round.

Spread the dough with ¼ cup tahini, then sprinkle with 2/3 cup sugar and 1½ tablespoons sesame seeds.

Using your fingers, roll up the dough from the hole toward the edge of the round, like rolling a pants cuff, to create a ring of dough about 12 inches in diameter. An unusual technique, but this is how it’s been done for centuries!

Cut the rope into 6 equal pieces. Coil each like a cinnamon roll, arrange on a baking sheet, then tightly flatten. Spread each with a little additional tahini and sprinkle with sesame seeds. Repeat with the remaining ingredients.

Bake for 25-30 minutes, until browned.

Serve warm with hummus or jam.

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Main course Recipes Vegetarian

Soba Noodles with Shiitakes and Cabbage

August 29, 2012

Cold noodle salads have always been my go-to take-out when I need a quick and filling lunch, whether hitting the prepared section of the corner deli or Whole Foods. As it’s often the case, they’re incredibly easy to make at home and your weeknight dinner will turn into leftovers you’ll actually crave days later. They also have the great benefit of being incredibly refreshing on a hot summer evening and super healthy to boot!

Soba noodles (buckwheat) are high in protein, fiber, and essential amino acids and will satisfy even the heartiest of appetites. This Asian-inspired recipe calls for Korean hot-pepper paste which gives the dish a bit of heat; feel free to substitute it for your favorite chili paste if you can’t find it in your ethnic grocery store. The flavor of the dish is deep, nutty, salty, full of umami and is rounded up perfectly with the edamame, cabbage and shiitake mushrooms. I paired it with my latest liquid discovery: cold sparkling sake for a delicious and special way to cool down, I highly recommend it! You could easily substitute other veggies and make this noodle dish your own. This is a very easy and adaptable recipe and I love that it tastes just as good the following day, perfect for people who like brown-bagging as much as I do!

Soba Noodles with Shiitakes and Cabbage

Adapted from Gourmet Magazine

Active time: 30 minutes

Total time: 30 minutes

Makes 4-5 servings

For sauce

1/3 cup water
1/3 cup soy sauce
*2 to 3 teaspoons Korean hot-pepper paste (sometimes labeled “gochujang”)
1 tablespoon packed brown sugar

For noodles

3 tablespoons sesame seeds
1/4 cup vegetable oil
2 tablespoons finely chopped peeled ginger
1 tablespoon finely chopped garlic
10 oz fresh shiitake mushrooms, stemmed and thinly sliced
1 1/4 pound Napa cabbage, thinly sliced (8 cups)
6 scallions, thinly sliced
8 to 9 ounces soba (buckwheat noodles)
1 cup frozen shelled edamame

*If you aren’t able to find Korean hot-pepper paste, substitute 3/4 teaspoon Chinese chile paste and reduce the amount of soy sauce to 1/4 cup.

Stir together all sauce ingredients until brown sugar is dissolved, then set aside.

Toast sesame seeds in a dry 12-inch heavy skillet (not nonstick) over medium heat, stirring, until pale golden, then transfer to a small bowl.

Heat oil in skillet over medium-high heat until it shimmers, then sauté ginger and garlic, stirring, until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Add shiitakes and sauté, stirring frequently, until tender and starting to brown, about 6 minutes.

Reduce heat to medium, then add cabbage and most of scallions (reserve about a tablespoon for garnish) and cook, stirring occasionally, until cabbage is crisp-tender, about 6 minutes. Add sauce and simmer 2 minutes.

While cabbage is cooking, cook soba and edamame together in a pasta pot of boiling salted water (2 tablespoons salt for 6 quarts water) until noodles are just tender, about 6 minutes. Drain in a colander and rinse under cool water to stop cooking and remove excess starch, then drain well again. Transfer to a large bowl and toss with sesame seeds and vegetable mixture.