Americas St. Lucia Travels

Adventure Holidays in St. Lucia

March 11, 2024

For the intrepid travelers like myself who typically avoid the Caribbean due to the fear of being bored on a beach resort, I have finally found the perfect island: St. Lucia! The largest of the Windward Islands in the West Indies boasts so many outdoorsy things to do I couldn’t even fit them all in a week on this tropical paradise. Dramatic natural landscapes abound – from the iconic twin peaks and bubbling springs to pristine beaches and lush rainforests – making St. Lucia the region’s most diverse and magnificent playground.

A view of the famous Pitons from the plane as you prepare to land

Enchanting Soufrière

For the easiest access to the main activities, I recommend you set up your base in Soufrière, the original capital of St. Lucia. Sitting on the west coast, the town is one of the island’s most breathtaking spots. Home to its most famous landmarks, the Gros Piton and Petit Piton volcanoes rising from the clear blue Caribbean, and surrounded by sandy beaches, there is not a bad view to be had around.

st lucia soufriere

The local beach is protected by lush cliffs on each side with snack bars and a fun local vibe as the day progresses.

Soufriere Beach

Many hotels built right on the hillside provide breathtaking views of the bay and a nice rest between your numerous adventures like the Green Fig Resort & Spa where I stayed for a few days. Only downside of the proximity to the town center and the beach are the loud dance parties on the weekends. Be ready to stay up until the wee hours of the morning while the weeknights are a lot quieter.

You can catch up on some z’s by the pool…

Wake up to fresh tropical fruits, excellent coffee, and a deliciously filling creole breakfast of stewed salted cod fish, salad, and bakes – perfect to fuel your day’s active pursuits.

There’s also an amazing take out spot called Island Chef by the beach for fresh grilled fish with curry sauce and all the local side dishes you can dream of (pictured below right).

With a name like Soufrière, it should come as no surprise that the town was first established by French colonialists before the British invasion. It was rebuilt many times over after hurricanes, a major fire, and an earthquake, lending a laid-back charm to the clutter of mixed buildings along the streets.

Soufriere town center

Brightly colored wooden cottages and tin shacks stand next to a few colonial-era houses while music blasts from shop windows or idled cars.

Soufriere
Soufriere houses

The Saturday Farmers’ Market by the beach is a great place to grab fresh produce, a cold drink, and observe local life for a while (and in the shade which is hard to come by!).

Geothermal activity & tropical flora

Soufrière sits right in the caldera of a dormant volcano, putting you within easy reach of hot springs and geothermal fields. You can drive in a few minutes to the seven-mile-wide caldera (the world’s only “drive-through volcano”) and walk around the collapsed crater.

Springs St Lucia

There’s activity all right as the plumes of rising steam, bubbling muddy puddles, and rotten egg sulfur smell indicate, although last eruption dates back to 1766.

Sulfur Soufriere

Make sure to bring a swimsuit and towel and head to the nearby Sulphur Springs where you can bathe in the warm, mineral-rich water and treat your body with a healing mud mask. You’ll feel wonderfully rejuvenated with baby soft skin for the rest of the day!

Hot springs Soufriere

Extend your “spa day” with a visit to the beautiful Diamond Falls Botanical Gardens close by. You can slowly walk the trails around the 6 acres of planted gardens, admiring the tropical flowers and trees at your own pace.

Diamond Falls Botanical Gardens St Lucia
Diamond Falls Botanical Gardens St Lucia
Fishtail palm trees
Cocoa at Diamond Falls Botanical Gardens St Lucia
Cocoa trees
Diamond Falls Botanical Gardens St Lucia
Red ginger
Diamond Falls Botanical Gardens St Lucia
Heliconia (lobster-claws)

At the end of the path you’ll find a most beautiful scene – Diamond Falls. They look almost as if they’ve been drawn to illustrate the cover of the Jungle Book, so perfectly framed by the garden’s lush greenery and rust-colored background. The Sulphur Springs you just bathed in are the source of this waterfall which explains the mineral-stained rock wall. There are also mineral baths in the botanical gardens you can bathe in (sans mud this time) if one dip wasn’t enough for the day and I highly recommend you do!

Waterfall at Diamond Falls Botanical Gardens St Lucia

The sweet side

The most renowned beach on the island is nestled right between the two iconic Pitons and has a name as sweet as its location – Sugar Beach. This stretch of imported white sand offers dramatic views of the peaks and the chic crowd that descends from the adjoining 5-star Viceroy Resort. You’re free to visit for the day, laze on the gorgeous beach and go snorkeling along the shore but don’t forget your towel as those comfy loungers are for hotel guests (or real heavy tippers!).

Viceroy resort St Lucia

It’s totally worth making a day or half-day of it. The open-air restaurant is fabulous for sipping rosé and feasting on wood-fired dishes perfect for hot summer days.

If satisfying your sweet tooth is more of your jam than laying on a beautiful beach, a stop at nearby Rabot Hotel and Restaurant should help curb your cravings. Part of Hotel Chocolat (a British chocolate manufacturer and cacao grower), the estate is set on a working cacao farm and the best place to immerse yourself in the local cacao delights in all shapes and forms.

Hotel Chocolat St Lucia

The open-air restaurant overlooks the Petit Piton and is surrounded by a lush jungle. You feel miles away from civilization even though the main road and Soufrière are close by.

Rabot Restaurant, Hotel Chocolat St Lucia

It’s a unique chance to try “cacao cuisine” which makes use of every part of the cacao pods, both sweet and savory, in fascinating recipes and pairings. From the bread course which came with cacao butter and dipping sauces and Cacao Bellini cocktail made with fresh cacao pulp to my main course of seared yellowfin tuna covered in cacao butter sauce and cacao nibs, the menu is as stunning as the setting.

Rabot Restaurant, Hotel Chocolat St Lucia

Leave room for desserts which unsurprisingly outnumber the other dishes. My “So Creole” ending married pieces of caramelized rum pineapple on top of a Creole vanilla cream, a coconut cocoa sponge, and a delicious rum and raisin ice cream.

Rabot Restaurant, Hotel Chocolat St Lucia

You can spend a cacao-filled day here between eating, walking the trails that snake their way through the farm, perhaps booking a spa treatment (cacao body wrap anyone?) and joining one of the on-site experiences.

Rabot Estate, Hotel Chocolat St Lucia

A short walk up a hill brings you to their Projet Chocolat pavilion where you can shop the local cacao-derived products they make, taste chocolates and liqueur (the cacao gin was especially good) and partake in their immersive “bean to bar experience”.

Rabot Estate Chocolate Making St Lucia

After hours on the estate, a filling cacao-based meal, and more tastings and indulgences you’ve allowed yourself in a very long time, you’re now crushing fresh cacao nibs with sugar in a hot mortar to make your own chocolate bar. As you salivate at the intoxicating smell of it all you realize there truly IS always room for chocolate…

Rabot Estate Chocolate Making St Lucia

End the sweetest day with a sunset drink overlooking the Pitons, perhaps a gin from Rabot Estate served neat to appreciate all the cacao nuances you’ve trained your palate to discern today.

View of Soufriere at sunset

Active Pursuits

With yesterday’s sugar rush still coursing through your veins, now’s the time to get out there and explore some of St Lucia’s “bumpy” playground. If you’re up for a morning challenge, hiking the 2,619-foot Gros Piton is a great way to get some nice views along the way and your heart pumping.

Hike Gros Piton St Lucia

The roughly 4-hour hike is thankfully in the shade for the most part though can be steep at times so you’re going to work those calf muscles!

Hike Gros Piton St Lucia

Reaching the top brings views towards the north of the island, taking in the island’s highest peak of Mount Gimie (3,120 ft) in the distance.

Hike Gros Piton St Lucia

If you’re looking for a more gentle hike, the popular Tet Paul Scenic Trail is a wonderful alternative.

You get to walk through agricultural land, coming up close to the local crops and perhaps even getting a taste of what’s in season.

Hike St Lucia
Hike in St Lucia

You get better sea views from this hike and can look all the way down at Sugar Beach’s enviable location.

Next, hit the water on a half day boat tour, leaving from the beach right in Soufrière. It’s a great way to fully appreciate the topography of the island and take a peak at the luxurious waterfront villas and posh resorts.

Entering Marigot Bay is like slipping inside a bottle with a carefully constructed Caribbean bay model, all pristine and perfectly proportioned. The tall palm trees, the still mirror-like turquoise water, the iconic sailboats, the perched millionaires’ mansions… the natural harbour screams glamour and celebrities the moment you lay eyes on it.

You could stop by for a bite at one of the very chic restaurants or stay on the water in the hopes of spotting someone famous from what is inarguably the best vantage point.

Swap luxury for history in the next stop at Pigeon Island National Park on the northern side of St Lucia. This distinctively-shaped islet is where the naval power and control of the island was decided in the 18th century. 

Pigeon Island St Lucia
Pigeon Island St Lucia

You can hike up to the fort the British army built when they invaded French-owned St Lucia for amazing views.

Pigeon Island St Lucia
Pigeon Island St Lucia

A man-made causeway now links the island with the western coast of the mainland.

Pigeon Island St Lucia

End your boat tour with a bit of snorkeling in one of the secluded bays on your way back to Soufrière.

You only need to go knee deep to find yourself surrounded by a myriad of sea creatures.

Snorkeling in St Lucia

These are just a handful of the things you can do on this varied and adventure-packed island. Including some well-deserved relaxation time by the beach or the pool means you can easily fill an entire week or more in St Lucia without ever getting bored. Add to this the perfect weather, great food, friendly people, beautiful beaches, …ok maybe substracting a few points for driving on the left on crazy curvy mountain roads (!) and you have honestly one of the best Caribbean island in my opinion.

Next post I’ll share a little secret with you – an absolute gem of accommodation for the “relaxing” part of your week…

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Albania Europe Travels

Turquoise Pools & Thore Pass in the Albanian Alps

January 30, 2024

Leaving the village of Theth behind, we followed the crystalline river Shala through the lush Grunasi canyon at a leisurely pace.

Grateful for the easier grade than in previous days, we crisscrossed the riverbed looking for berries and the perfect shaded spot for a mid-morning picnic.

A little climb up brought us to Grunas Waterfall (or Theth Waterfall as it’s sometimes called) – a 30m high waterfall fed almost exclusively by the melted snow coming from the mountaintops.

A bit further, a wooden bridge slightly off the hiking trail gave us a nice view over the deep, turquoise canyon.

Back in the open, the valley laid out at our feet, the sun beating down on us… what a marvel to be here and not have to share this superb “day of rest” with anybody else? Incredible that you can still find pockets of solitude in such formidable nature.

We couldn’t stay away any longer from the enchanting blue of the tranquil river and its healing promise. We scrambled down and quickly took off bulky hiking boots and wool socks, filling the quiet valley with our screams of ecstasy as the glacial water soothed our achy feet…

Early afternoon, we reached the first bridge crossing the river and with it the first sign of tourism. Some riverside chalets, wooden lounge chairs, and a sign saying something about agritourism… this seemed like the perfect place for nature lovers to get away from it all (and indulge in the cold plunge trend in gorgeous surroundings!).

Finally on the other side, our “leisure” day continued as we reached the picturesque hamlet of Nderlysaj.

We checked into our guest house to rest before our final ascent tomorrow, settling in for a beer or two in the expansive garden and carb-loading on sweet cakes.

We took off early the next morning before the sun could warm up the valley, on our way to the butt-kicker of the week.

Following the Krapea creek, we got a nice surprise at the sight of the Ndërlysa’s marble pools. The stunning white rock formations have been chiseled by the water over centuries, creating mini pools of the clearest turquoise.

We continued going up through forests and pastures, crossing a few more streams but without dipping our toes this time as we knew the hard climb was yet to come.

An hour later, we arrived at surprise #2 – the Blue Eye.

Blue Hole Albanian Alps

Not to be confused with the other, more famous Blue Eye in the south of Albania in Saranda, the “Theth Blue Eye” is yes another pretty turquoise pool but this one has a towering waterfall that flows right into it. It’s beautiful especially seen from above and incredibly cold so only the bravest will attempt to dip a tiny body part before skipping away screaming.

Blue Hole Albanian Alps
Blue Hole Albanian Alps

Soon after, the unrelenting climb to reach the 1,685m-high Thore pass began . It wasn’t that difficult but felt like a never-ending Stairmaster workout. Deep in the forested slopes of the mountain, there were practically no views to take the mind off your burning calves. First distraction we saw was an old grave so we cheered up big time when the trees finally cleared for a moment and we were able to see the valley from where we had just come that morning…

The end in sight, we pushed without a pause to the top of Thore Pass (which you can also reach by car but where’s the fun in that!).

We finally made it (and crushed it frankly as it wasn’t even noon) and could catch our breath as we admired the views. Not as spectacular as the Valbona Pass but a nice crowning achievement nevertheless. Time for a long and well-deserved lunch before driving the scenic route to Krujë, passing through the Boga Valley.

Thore Pass Albania

Sitting on a mountaintop just north of Tirana, the small city of Krujë (or Kruja) became the symbol of resistance against the Ottoman in the 15th century.

Kruje Albania

Perched above the city, the Krujë castle was the headquarters of Albania’s national hero Skanderbeg (then an Albanian nobleman and military commander) who led a rebellion against the Ottoman Empire. The castle fought off multiple massive sieges from the Turks under his command while Constantinople and large areas of the Balkans were falling. Today it contains a museum dedicated to this legendary Albanian leader, chronicling his life and  one of the proudest periods of Albanian history.

You can also see the remains of an Ottoman-era mosque and its minaret in front of the castle, named after the man who finally broke down the castle’s security – Sultan Mehmed Fatih.

The way up to the castle is equally historic as you walk through a 450-year-old bazaar selling traditional crafts and antiques.

With a view as fitting as its name, we ended our adventure at Hotel Panorama with a final traditional meal and an abundance of strong Albanian red wine. We needed to celebrate our steep morning hike and tomorrow’s lack of physical activity save for carrying our gear to the airport…

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Albania Europe Travels

Valbona to Theth Hike in Albania

January 23, 2024

This day hike in Northern Albania is one of the area’s most celebrated trails and we were giddy with excitement as we bid farewell to Valbona village this morning to start the journey. For centuries this trail has connected the glacial valleys of Valbonë and Thethi, crossing over the 1800m high Valbonë pass, which is only accessible during the summer months due to heavy snowfall. It’s a moderate hike which should take you around 6-7 hours to cover the roughly 9km-12km distance depending on where you start, rewarding you with spectacular scenery almost the entire way.

Valbona to Theth Hike
Start of the Valbona-Theth hike in the village of Rrogam

Rewarding our first uphill section, the Simoni Kafe appeared like a mirage around a bend in the path with its shaded bar and offering of cold and hot beverages.

I went for my usual extra strong Turkish coffee which has been fueling up my hikes these past few days and making me wonder how I’ve trekked without them for so long… (hiking destinations of the world please take note!).

From then on the trail got steeper, leading us towards a large bowl of alpine meadows, framed by rocky slopes that were to take us up to the Valbonë Pass.

Valbona to Theth Hike
Valbona to Theth Hike

About halfway up the valley started appearing to our left with clear, magnificent views as far as the eyes could see.

Valbona to Theth Hike

At times a bit vertiginous, the trail hugged the ridge for a little while, adding a bit of scrambling to our route.

Reaching the Valbonë pass at 1,812 meters under the blazing midday sun was simply glorious.

Valbona Pass

Views opened up all around us with opportunities to go slightly higher up a few craggy peaks for even better perspectives. Time to take it slow and let it all soak in… accursed or not, these are some breathtakingly beautiful mountains we were lucky to be trekking through.

Valbona to Theth Hike

The Albanian Alps were nicknamed the “Accursed Mountains” supposedly by the Slavic soldiers trying to cross them a while back.

Valbona to Theth Hike

From the pass, it’s now down, down, down all the way to the village of Theth. We passed horses carrying luggage which is the common thing to do here seeing as there’s no direct road between Valbona and Theth – only the pass.

Much of the way down is amid shaded forest with scenic openings appearing with a cafe or sloping meadow to admire the changing vistas.

Valbona to Theth Hike

Soon we got a glimpse of our destination for the night, the famous Theth (or Thethi) village down in the valley.

Valbona to Theth Hike

Theth is legendary, the kind of places you can hardly believe still exists today. In the heart of Theth National Park, the small village stands as the most well-preserved alpine village in Albania and was declared a Protected Historic Centre.

Valbona to Theth Hike

Only a few original families still live in Theth in the summer and a few outsider Albanians are slowly coming up here to open businesses as tourism is slowly starting to grow. The setting is just outstanding. You feel like you’re in this protected little bowl of natural beauty and totally forget for a moment that this is indeed the 21st century.

Theth Village Albania

We walked around the village to explore its unique setting, stone-walled terraces dating back to the Bronze Age, little farmhouses growing veggies and grapevines, glacial streams…

…and a blood feud tower. I had read about them prior to coming here and standing right in front of one was seeing medieval history come to life. This region was famous for blood feuds which have slowly disappeared from modern Albanian life although some other areas have seen this tradition return since the fall of Communism.

Theth Village Albania

It’s totally worth learning more about it but in a nutshell, protecting one’s honor is an essential component of Albanian culture even at the cost of one’s life. Committing a serious personal attack on a member of any family (failure to pay a debt, seducing a woman, violating private property, killing a guest, etc.) could only be redeemed by the killing of the offender or a member of their family in order to salvage one’s honor. 

These fortified towers were used as safe haven for men engaged in blood feuds. Males from the family involved would be able to lock themselves in the tower, until some relative had been killed and it was then safe to come out. It is believed that there are still about 700 Albanian families affected by blood feuds which are passed down generations if the debt is not paid…

Theth Village Albania
Our guest house for the night
Theth Village Albania
Theth Village Albania

The stone-built Catholic Church stands proudly in the middle of it all. Legend has it that the villagers moved here in order to worship in the Christian faith undisturbed. It’s as iconic as the village itself and looked even more stunning as the light started to fade and we settled in for a celebratory dinner, still enchanted by the most perfect of hiking day.

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Albania Europe Travels

Hiking the Accursed Mountains of Albania

January 21, 2024

Hikers in search of the last few remaining unspoiled mountain trails have been making their way to Northern Albania lately. The remote Albanian Alps and nearby Balkan ranges are considered some of the last “adventurous” hiking destinations on the continent, and looking at the pace of change in these regions these days, not for long. If you’re into pristine nature and walking to remote villages to see a disappearing way of life then head up here as fast as you can – it’s so worth it. Here’s an inside look into my weeklong journey into the “Accursed Mountains” of Albania…

Getting there is an adventure in itself. If you’re flying into Tirana, you’ll have to make your way to Shkoder first in the north, the last big town before the mountains. From Shkoder it’s over two hours of bumpy ride on mountain roads (some of which were washed out when we passed through from the previous night’s storm) to get to the beginning of a much more pleasant commute – the Lake Koman ferry.

Komani Lake - Albania

Lake Koman was artificially created in the 1980s as part of a major hydroelectric project which doesn’t take anything away from its breathtaking beauty. Although we embarked under the cover of clouds with a light rain falling, the weather eventually turned around for us to enjoy what is known as one of the best boat trips in the world.

Komani lake - Albania

The ride is calm on the small public ferry as you gently glide over the 34 km2 expanse of the lake. The roughly 2½ hours journey takes you through a wonderful moving panorama of untouched landscape along the Drin River.

Komani Lake - Albania

Once the sun finally showed up, the technicolor switch turned on and with it the spectacular sight of the emerald lake with green rolling hills in the background.

Always twisting and turning, you cruise from wide open views to narrow passageways with towering cliffs on each side, reminiscent of the fjords of Norway or even the Philippines. The walls get higher and higher the further north you go, a sign that you’re soon arriving at your destination.

Komani lake - Albania

The ferry drops you off in Fierza and then it’s an hour long (and quite stunning) drive through the Valbonë Valley, deep into the Albanian Alps with the glacier-fed Valbona river rushing to your left.

Valbona Albania

Valbona is a sleepy little village for now but it sure won’t stay that way forever seeing the number of hotels currently being built. On the positive side, I didn’t notice any big resorts and it means you have a plethora of choices among the many family-owned stone houses and alpine chalets. Wherever you stay, you’ll get a warm welcome, a quiet room overlooking the dramatic scenery, and a home cooked meal which is all you can dream of after a long day in the mountains.

The location can’t be beat with many trails starting right from the village and the arresting views all around you of towering limestone cliffs.

Right after dropping our bags we were off on our first late afternoon hike, following the only road out of the village.

Valbona Albania

A gentle climb through the forest gave us glimpses of the changing sky and the kind of golden hour magic 19th century impressionist painters were always chasing after.

Also, I’m usually not the superstitious type but anyone else seeing the devil’s eyes shining bright on the “Accursed Mountains” below?? I swore they were looking right at me…ominous sign for tomorrow’s big hike?

Thankfully the skies cleared once again and the Albanian evil spirit gave way to flowery meadows and pastoral scenes all the way back to the village.

Valbona Albania

If the bucolic alpine landscape could easily have you fooled and thinking you’re in Switzerland or Italy, the sight of a few bunkers by the side of the road is confirmation that you’re indeed in Albania (I explain a bit more about the bunkers in a previous post if you’re interested in their origin).

Valbona Albania

We settled in for the night with a traditional meal washed with the local beer and obligatory post-dinner shot of their homemade raki.

Waking up to a glorious sunrise casting a deep reddish light over the Accursed mountain range, we set off on foot after breakfast (typically bread, local cheeses and jams) to explore these jagged landscapes right in front of us.

Sunrise in Valbona

Following a shepherd’s path up took us through beech and pine forests to one of the remotest areas of the eastern Alps of Albania and we eventually reached the quaint little hamlet of Kukaj.

Valbona Albania

A quick stop at a refuge for a strong cup of coffee gave us fuel for the climb ahead and some very fine views.

Valbona Valley - Albania

Out of the woods (and after a period of rain) we finally get dramatic views of the surrounding rocky domes and the ideal spot to unpack our lunch by a shepherd’s hut.

The winding route back down into the valley.

Back in Valbona by mid-afternoon in time for some local herbal tea and a relaxing night at the inn.

Valbona Albania

Next day, we drove this time towards the Montenegro border, spotting carved busts of historical local leaders along the mountain roads.

We arrived at the secluded village of Çerem, populated mostly by shepherds during the summer season but otherwise left uninhabited due to poor weather conditions during the winter. We started on foot from the village up into the mountains, crossing lush forests and meadows.

Valbona Valley - Albania

Horses were seen roaming and grazing on our left as we climbed higher and higher.

As we had now become accustomed to (and absolutely loving), we soon reached a small shepherd’s hut to rest for a bit.

Valbona Albania

The daughter of the local shepherd was there to offer us not only deliciously strong Turkish coffee but also her homemade yogurt and freshly picked wild blueberries. She’s currently studying at the university in Tirana and spends her summer and time off here helping her parents and welcoming hikers to the mountain.

Honestly couldn’t have dreamed of a better mid-hike snack!

Other animals soon joined us as we neared the highest grazing meadows and top of the mountain range.

We made it to Bori Pass which marks the border with Montenegro. Shepherd families were split with this added border in the 1950s so you’ll find the closest village to the Bori Pass on the Montenegro side to be populated by ethnic Albanians, cousins of the shepherds from Çerem.

Bori Pass - Albania Montenegro
From the pass you could continue on the Peaks of the Balkans Trail through Montenegro and Kosovo.

From there we turned around and made our way down the winding slopes of Mount Sqapit, all the way back to the village.

Valbona Valley Albania

This was turning out to be quite the food highlight day – after this morning’s blueberry yogurt I found ketchup-flavored chips in the village to accompany my local beer… the Canadian in me was really happy! (if you know you know) 🙂

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Appetizer Main course Recipes

Pissaladière

January 7, 2024

The post-holiday reset is often an excuse for me to dive into the Mediterranean diet for a healthy start of the year. A traditional pissaladière from the south of France is the ideal way to brighten a cold January day with a simple dish that comforts and evokes images of sunny days in Provence.

Pissaladière is a southern French flatbread (don’t call it a pizza!) originally from Nice that is piled high with wonderfully caramelized onions, anchovies, and black olives. It is rather simple to make, delightful hot or cold, and just the reason you needed to drink rosé all year round…

Pissaladiere

The base is an olive oil-based yeasted dough similar to a focaccia and very easy to make.

Pissaladiere dough

Next comes the pissalat – the anchovy paste that gives the flatbread its pungent, distinctive flavor. Here, canned anchovies are puréed with fennel seeds, crushed red peppers, and black pepper to form the paste. Originally though, pissalat is made by fermenting baby anchovies and sardines with salt and spices for over a month to further develop the flavors which is still done today in the south the France during anchovy season.

Pissaladiere sauce

Onions are probably the most crucial component of a great pissaladière and that’s where your attention (and time) should be focused on. Low and slow is the name of the game here – you don’t want to rush this step! It might look like it takes forever but it is so worth it to get them just right. Anywhere between 30 minutes to an hour will get them really, really soft and starting to brown and form that sweet and mellow caramelization you’re after.

The assemblage is the fun part. Once your anchovy paste and caramelized onions have been spread all over, it’s time to layer your topping anchovies and olives in an artful design of your taste. If you can find “Boquerones a la vinagre” (silver-skinned fresh anchovies that have been preserved in vinegar) they add a lovely briny tang to the dish but canned anchovies are equally fine here.

Pissaladiere

Drizzle a bit of olive oil over the top and bake for 15-20 minutes – voila! It’s ready to eat hot or you can let it cool down for a bit.

Slices of pissaladière are a favorite street food and an easy afternoon snack around Nice.

Pissaladiere

Serve with a side salad and most importantly a chilled glass of rosé for a light and “sunny” lunch any time of year. The sweetness of the melted onions paired with the salty anchovies and briny olives deliver a truly Provencal flavor punch to brighten up any day and tomorrow’s breakfast too if you have leftovers!

Pissaladiere

A traditional Provençal tart marrying deeply caramelized onions, anchovies, and briny black olives, pissaladière is easy enough to make at home and can be served throughout the day (equally great as a meal or snack!).

Total Time:120 min
Category:Entree
Cuisine:French
Yield:4-6 servings
Preparation
1. For the dough, combine the flour, yeast and salt in a large mixing bowl. Add 2tbsp oil to 150ml warm water and pour into the flour mixture. Bring together with your hands to make a smooth dough, adding more water if necessary. Tip onto a clean surface and knead until soft and elastic.

3. Grease the bowl with ½tbsp oil, return the dough, cover with a damp cloth and leave in a warm place for around 45 minutes or until roughly doubled in size.

5. Meanwhile for the topping, heat the oil in a wide, deep pan. Add the onions and cook over a medium-low heat for around 30-40 minutes, stirring occasionally until soft and a pale amber colour, adjusting the heat to stop them catching around the edge of the pan. Tip into a dish and leave to get cool.

7. For the pissalat, put all the ingredients in a mini food processor and process to a purée. Add sea salt only if you think it needs it.

9. Preheat the oven to 200C/180C F/Gas 6 and put a large baking sheet in to heat up.

11. Tip the dough onto a lightly floured work surface and knead briefly. Grease a 22 x 32cm Swiss roll tin with the remaining ½tbsp oil and put the dough in the middle. Using your fingers, push it out towards the edges until it fills the tin evenly (it will go right to the corners, so persevere). Spread the pissalat over the dough with a knife and leave to prove for around 10 minutes. Arrange the onions evenly over the dough.

13. Slice the boquerones for the topping in half lengthways and arrange on top of the onions in a criss-cross pattern. Add the olives and drizzle all over with a little more oil. Put the tin on the preheated tray and bake for 15-20 minutes until the dough is cooked through. Remove from the tin and serve.
Ingredients
For the dough:
250g white bread flour
1½tsp active dried yeast
½tsp sea salt crystals
3tbsp extra virgin olive oil
For the topping:
8tbsp extra virgin olive oil, plus extra to serve
1.25kg onions, halved, then thinly sliced
4 thyme sprigs, leaves picked
2 x 100g cans Boquerones a la Vinagreta, or regular anchovies in olive oil
approx. 24 stone-in black olives
For the pissalat:
1x 100g can Anchoas Ahumadas en Aceite de Oliva, or regular anchovies in olive oil, plus ½ x 50-80g can or jar anchovies in olive oil
½tsp fennel seeds, finely ground
1tsp pul biber
¼tsp freshly ground black pepper
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