After a few adventurous days hiking, boating, sunning, eating and bathing in St. Lucia’s gorgeous nature, I was finally ready for a proper rest. The island’s coast isn’t shy of beautiful resorts and sweet rentals, but for me there was only one destination calling my name: Balenbouche Estate. It’s unlike me to devote an entire post to an accommodation but you’ll understand why it was necessary after scrolling through it. Calling Balenbouche an accommodation is too diminutive as it is a world within itself, one I could have easily stayed in for a month or more…

A very different kind of stay

In the charming south of the island, less than 30 minutes drive from the airport, you’ll find this tranquil retreat with hidden beaches, secret gardens, old ruins, and eco-built guest houses you’ll never want to leave. Welcome to Balenbouche Estate, a 70-acre paradise for nature lovers, history fans, ecotourism enthusiasts, yogis, and anyone in need of a reset away from it all.

It all began as a rum and sugar plantation in colonial 18th-century St. Lucia and is now a pioneer of ecotourism on the island. In the same family since the 1960s, Balenbouche has been carefully restored  in keeping with the estate’s ecological philosophy. Today they host guests, retreats, weddings, artists, etc. all the while running community projects and working to preserve the incredible nature surrounding their home.

You’ll need to drive slowly to not miss the unassuming signage by the side of the road and the unpaved driveway leading you to the main house through mango trees, flowering shrubs, and grazing pasture.

The family who created the Balenbouche of today still lives in this characterful colonial house and will greet you warmly whether you’re staying for a few days or just a few hours (you can visit the estate for the day for a very small fee). Uta the matriarch and her two daughters will happily show you around for a brief intro and let you explore the many corners of the expansive grounds at your own pace.

The main house is always open and is where you’ll gather up for occasional meals in good company. The guest suites and cottages are for the most part self-catering though you can order breakfast every morning if you’d like and enjoy Uta’s homecooking on the wraparound porch.

Antique silver, tropical fruits, and the company of the many resident dogs make for a delightful and unhurried start of your day at Balenbouche.

A wander around the architecturally impressive plantation house from the 19th century is like stepping into an open-air museum. Everything is as it was generations ago with no modern amenities breaking up the soothing interior and vintage decor.

Lush Living Quarters

Stroll the grounds to find remnants of the past at every turn and more reading/meditation nooks you could fit in a week’s time.

An old cotton drying house is now a serene yoga studio you can retreat to any time you like for stretches, contemplation or writing.

Paths take you through flower gardens, lily ponds, fruit orchards and dense jungle into the heart of Balenbouche’s harmonious ecosystem.

Dotted around these enchanting grounds, a handful of simple and incredibly sweet cottages welcome guests into a truly immersive stay. All have their unique style and were entirely built from recycled material, showcasing the family’s creative and artistic nature.

Outdoor showers, verandas, open-air kitchens all invite nature (and wildlife!) in with mosquito nets to repel the least desirable of visitors.

Even the more modern additions keep the open vibes and organic design.

Nightly St. Lucian breezes cool you off (no air-conditioning in your eco-friendly room of course) and lull you to the most wonderful sleep, carrying the dreamy insects and creatures chirps and hums from all around the estate.

My kitchen overlooking the fields and garden was well equipped for light meals with birds often flying in to join me. The owners will invite you to join them on their grocery run so you can fill up on supplies for your stay and enjoy life on the estate without having to leave. There are a few restaurants walking distance down the road if you prefer to go out though.

As homey and comfortable as the cottages are, there’s a fascinating world to explore just beyond your doorstep. Leisure walks around the estate are always full of surprises and magical encounters, whether you spot one of the 30+ bird species, befriend a curious lizard, or stumble upon a hidden patch of brightly colored flowers.

Beaches and Ruins

Eventually your feet will lead you to one of the two natural black sand beaches on the property which you’ll likely have all to yourself. The mix of volcanic sand, multi-colored cliffs and blue water of Balenbouche “Middle Beach” is simply stunning. Go for a swim, read a book, take photos on what feels like your own private slice of St Lucia – a rare treat.

When the sun gets a bit too hot out there, it’s the perfect time to go explore Balenbouche’s past hidden in the jungly interior.

The living ruins of the old 18th century sugar mill make for an adventurous stroll through history and plenty of photo opportunities. Balenbouche produced sugar and rum from the late 1700’s to the 1930’s. After sugar the main crops were cotton, citrus, coffee, cocoa and coconuts.

Nature has worked her way through the huge water wheel, crushing mechanism, and rusty copper stills since production stopped.

The iconic banyan tree fascinates every visitors and I found my way back to it again and again, admiring every angle of its intricate root system.

Come sunset, follow the clear and easier path to the second beach called “Anse Balenbouche”.

Smaller and shallower, it’s the ideal spot to bid goodbye to the sun as it sinks down right in front of you into the ocean.

You honestly won’t want to leave this magical place but there are a few activities nearby you can easily get to without a car. We hiked to a nearby river where a “natural swimming pool” was ours alone (a tip from the lovely owners) and it’s easy to get to Laborie, the nearest town with bars and restaurants, by hailing the minibus from the main road.

Staying at Balenbouche is the best reset I know of, whether you need some alone time in nature or want to bring your whole family to a stunning heritage site for bonding. A true Caribbean treasure – Balenbouche Estate.

For the intrepid travelers like myself who typically avoid the Caribbean due to the fear of being bored on a beach resort, I have finally found the perfect island: St. Lucia! The largest of the Windward Islands in the West Indies boasts so many outdoorsy things to do I couldn’t even fit them all in a week on this tropical paradise. Dramatic natural landscapes abound – from the iconic twin peaks and bubbling springs to pristine beaches and lush rainforests – making St. Lucia the region’s most diverse and magnificent playground.

Enchanting Soufrière

For the easiest access to the main activities, I recommend you set up your base in Soufrière, the original capital of St. Lucia. Sitting on the west coast, the town is one of the island’s most breathtaking spots. Home to its most famous landmarks, the Gros Piton and Petit Piton volcanoes rising from the clear blue Caribbean, and surrounded by sandy beaches, there is not a bad view to be had around.

The local beach is protected by lush cliffs on each side with snack bars and a fun local vibe as the day progresses.

Many hotels built right on the hillside provide breathtaking views of the bay and a nice rest between your numerous adventures like the Green Fig Resort & Spa where I stayed for a few days. Only downside of the proximity to the town center and the beach are the loud dance parties on the weekends. Be ready to stay up until the wee hours of the morning while the weeknights are a lot quieter.

You can catch up on some z’s by the pool…

Wake up to fresh tropical fruits, excellent coffee, and a deliciously filling creole breakfast of stewed salted cod fish, salad, and bakes – perfect to fuel your day’s active pursuits.

There’s also an amazing take out spot called Island Chef by the beach for fresh grilled fish with curry sauce and all the local side dishes you can dream of (pictured below right).

With a name like Soufrière, it should come as no surprise that the town was first established by French colonialists before the British invasion. It was rebuilt many times over after hurricanes, a major fire, and an earthquake, lending a laid-back charm to the clutter of mixed buildings along the streets.

Brightly colored wooden cottages and tin shacks stand next to a few colonial-era houses while music blasts from shop windows or idled cars.

The Saturday Farmers’ Market by the beach is a great place to grab fresh produce, a cold drink, and observe local life for a while (and in the shade which is hard to come by!).

Geothermal activity & tropical flora

Soufrière sits right in the caldera of a dormant volcano, putting you within easy reach of hot springs and geothermal fields. You can drive in a few minutes to the seven-mile-wide caldera (the world’s only “drive-through volcano”) and walk around the collapsed crater.

There’s activity all right as the plumes of rising steam, bubbling muddy puddles, and rotten egg sulfur smell indicate, although last eruption dates back to 1766.

Make sure to bring a swimsuit and towel and head to the nearby Sulphur Springs where you can bathe in the warm, mineral-rich water and treat your body with a healing mud mask. You’ll feel wonderfully rejuvenated with baby soft skin for the rest of the day!

Extend your “spa day” with a visit to the beautiful Diamond Falls Botanical Gardens close by. You can slowly walk the trails around the 6 acres of planted gardens, admiring the tropical flowers and trees at your own pace.

At the end of the path you’ll find a most beautiful scene – Diamond Falls. They look almost as if they’ve been drawn to illustrate the cover of the Jungle Book, so perfectly framed by the garden’s lush greenery and rust-colored background. The Sulphur Springs you just bathed in are the source of this waterfall which explains the mineral-stained rock wall. There are also mineral baths in the botanical gardens you can bathe in (sans mud this time) if one dip wasn’t enough for the day and I highly recommend you do!

The sweet side

The most renowned beach on the island is nestled right between the two iconic Pitons and has a name as sweet as its location – Sugar Beach. This stretch of imported white sand offers dramatic views of the peaks and the chic crowd that descends from the adjoining 5-star Viceroy Resort. You’re free to visit for the day, laze on the gorgeous beach and go snorkeling along the shore but don’t forget your towel as those comfy loungers are for hotel guests (or real heavy tippers!).

It’s totally worth making a day or half-day of it. The open-air restaurant is fabulous for sipping rosé and feasting on wood-fired dishes perfect for hot summer days.

If satisfying your sweet tooth is more of your jam than laying on a beautiful beach, a stop at nearby Rabot Hotel and Restaurant should help curb your cravings. Part of Hotel Chocolat (a British chocolate manufacturer and cacao grower), the estate is set on a working cacao farm and the best place to immerse yourself in the local cacao delights in all shapes and forms.

The open-air restaurant overlooks the Petit Piton and is surrounded by a lush jungle. You feel miles away from civilization even though the main road and Soufrière are close by.

It’s a unique chance to try “cacao cuisine” which makes use of every part of the cacao pods, both sweet and savory, in fascinating recipes and pairings. From the bread course which came with cacao butter and dipping sauces and Cacao Bellini cocktail made with fresh cacao pulp to my main course of seared yellowfin tuna covered in cacao butter sauce and cacao nibs, the menu is as stunning as the setting.

Leave room for desserts which unsurprisingly outnumber the other dishes. My “So Creole” ending married pieces of caramelized rum pineapple on top of a Creole vanilla cream, a coconut cocoa sponge, and a delicious rum and raisin ice cream.

You can spend a cacao-filled day here between eating, walking the trails that snake their way through the farm, perhaps booking a spa treatment (cacao body wrap anyone?) and joining one of the on-site experiences.

A short walk up a hill brings you to their Projet Chocolat pavilion where you can shop the local cacao-derived products they make, taste chocolates and liqueur (the cacao gin was especially good) and partake in their immersive “bean to bar experience”.

After hours on the estate, a filling cacao-based meal, and more tastings and indulgences you’ve allowed yourself in a very long time, you’re now crushing fresh cacao nibs with sugar in a hot mortar to make your own chocolate bar. As you salivate at the intoxicating smell of it all you realize there truly IS always room for chocolate…

End the sweetest day with a sunset drink overlooking the Pitons, perhaps a gin from Rabot Estate served neat to appreciate all the cacao nuances you’ve trained your palate to discern today.

Active Pursuits

With yesterday’s sugar rush still coursing through your veins, now’s the time to get out there and explore some of St Lucia’s “bumpy” playground. If you’re up for a morning challenge, hiking the 2,619-foot Gros Piton is a great way to get some nice views along the way and your heart pumping.

The roughly 4-hour hike is thankfully in the shade for the most part though can be steep at times so you’re going to work those calf muscles!

Reaching the top brings views towards the north of the island, taking in the island’s highest peak of Mount Gimie (3,120 ft) in the distance.

If you’re looking for a more gentle hike, the popular Tet Paul Scenic Trail is a wonderful alternative.

You get to walk through agricultural land, coming up close to the local crops and perhaps even getting a taste of what’s in season.

You get better sea views from this hike and can look all the way down at Sugar Beach’s enviable location.

Next, hit the water on a half day boat tour, leaving from the beach right in Soufrière. It’s a great way to fully appreciate the topography of the island and take a peak at the luxurious waterfront villas and posh resorts.

Entering Marigot Bay is like slipping inside a bottle with a carefully constructed Caribbean bay model, all pristine and perfectly proportioned. The tall palm trees, the still mirror-like turquoise water, the iconic sailboats, the perched millionaires’ mansions… the natural harbour screams glamour and celebrities the moment you lay eyes on it.

You could stop by for a bite at one of the very chic restaurants or stay on the water in the hopes of spotting someone famous from what is inarguably the best vantage point.

Swap luxury for history in the next stop at Pigeon Island National Park on the northern side of St Lucia. This distinctively-shaped islet is where the naval power and control of the island was decided in the 18th century. 

You can hike up to the fort the British army built when they invaded French-owned St Lucia for amazing views.

A man-made causeway now links the island with the western coast of the mainland.

End your boat tour with a bit of snorkeling in one of the secluded bays on your way back to Soufrière.

You only need to go knee deep to find yourself surrounded by a myriad of sea creatures.

These are just a handful of the things you can do on this varied and adventure-packed island. Including some well-deserved relaxation time by the beach or the pool means you can easily fill an entire week or more in St Lucia without ever getting bored. Add to this the perfect weather, great food, friendly people, beautiful beaches, …ok maybe substracting a few points for driving on the left on crazy curvy mountain roads (!) and you have honestly one of the best Caribbean island in my opinion.

Next post I’ll share a little secret with you – an absolute gem of accommodation for the “relaxing” part of your week…